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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 993 ✭✭✭737max


    re-read. You personalised it first so the gloves came off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    737max wrote: »
    re-read. You personalised it first so the gloves came off.

    The assume acronym is well known & popular. No one would consider it a personal attack. You assumed a lot about me & got it all wrong. A quick glance through your comments, in this thread, would put people off dealers for life. You seem to have a very condescending view of customers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 993 ✭✭✭737max


    Discodog wrote: »
    The assume acronym is well known & popular. No one would consider it a personal attack. You assumed a lot about me & got it all wrong. A quick glance through your comments, in this thread, would put people off dealers for life. You seem to have a very condescending view of customers.
    A Customer is someone who actually buys product at a price that allows you to keep the lights on and pay rates rather than monopolises and wastes your time, at the expense of real customers telling you how they can get stuff cheaper in another territory or on the internet and expects you to repair it when it predictably breaks, all at a minimum wage labour rate or better still, under warranty because you are the local authorized repair centre.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 7,683 Mod ✭✭✭✭delly


    Good morning folks. Can we please leave the back and forth on this now, there is nothing worse than knowledgeable posters coming to verbal blows and drag a good thread off topic. Thank you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    Discodog wrote: »
    You accuse me of being personal yet you wrote this:

    You don't have the first clue how expensive lawnmower parts can be because of your limited experience of the few machines you happen to own.
    You will not purchase direct from a distributor at a price which undermines their dealers.


    In one sentence you say that you are an approved Honda dealer & in the next that you are not.

    You say that blade clutches can be out of supply all over Europe. There are plenty here. Six on ebay alone.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/honda-lawnmower-clutch

    http://www.cash4tools.ie/lawnmower-clutches/honda-hrd535-hrd536-brake-blade-clutch-detail

    https://planopower.com/store/honda/honda_hr215_bbc_assembly.php

    You say that they cost a months wages. The dearest is ?139.

    You say that Honda Ireland won't sell parts yet my local mower repairer, who isn't a Honda dealer, can get parts within 48 hours

    I have bought a wide range of machines over many years & done more work with them in a week that a typical customer would in a year. But you say that I am more biased than a dealer.

    If your idea of customer service is to "get them out of the door" then it's even more reason why people should buy online.

    I will leave others to judge if I am shouting people down. I have made 10,000 posts here & received 5,600 thanks

    +1 my local non Honda dealer lawnmower repairer can get Honda parts no problem, I also bought a replacement grass bag and frame from him last year for a Honda hrh and it was there in two days.


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  • Posts: 8,856 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Leaving the handbags at dawn aside, what I'm finding a lot now, is that many retailers who service lawnmowers will only service the machines they sell. If you don't have a good independent lawnmower repair centre near you (and I don't)- then from a practical perspective, the consumer is pretty much forced to go with the brand that is sold by their local supplier.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Leaving the handbags at dawn aside, what I'm finding a lot now, is that many retailers who service lawnmowers will only service the machines they sell. If you don't have a good independent lawnmower repair centre near you (and I don't)- then from a practical perspective, the consumer is pretty much forced to go with the brand that is sold by their local supplier.

    Seems a very stupid policy. They will make far more on regular servicing, goodwill etc than the sale of a machine. Plus they are in pole position to sell you a new one when the time comes.

    Especially with the internet & youtube, DIY servicing is very easy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭f0zzy


    Repost from another forum as suggested to post here instead.

    Have about 1/2 acre to cut. Terrain is mixed - ranging from flat to some slopes. Lots of natural features trees and natural protruding rock (large) to navigate around. Mostly dry under foot but some areas hold the water a bit - so can
    be slightly boggy during wet periods.

    I've no clue about ride ons whatsoever - so any advice appreciated
    on what to look for etc ?

    Tx

    F-z


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    f0zzy wrote: »
    Repost from another forum as suggested to post here instead.

    Have about 1/2 acre to cut. Terrain is mixed - ranging from flat to some slopes. Lots of natural features trees and natural protruding rock (large) to navigate around. Mostly dry under foot but some areas hold the water a bit - so can
    be slightly boggy during wet periods.

    I've no clue about ride ons whatsoever - so any advice appreciated
    on what to look for etc ?

    Tx

    F-z

    Walk behind mower would be your best bet, the top end of the range Viking mowers have chunky rear tyres which can be handy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    Walk behind mower would be your best bet, the top end of the range Viking mowers have chunky rear tyres which can be handy.

    Viking are getting a good reputation with contractors.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    f0zzy wrote: »
    Repost from another forum as suggested to post here instead.

    Have about 1/2 acre to cut. Terrain is mixed - ranging from flat to some slopes. Lots of natural features trees and natural protruding rock (large) to navigate around. Mostly dry under foot but some areas hold the water a bit - so can
    be slightly boggy during wet periods.

    I've no clue about ride ons whatsoever - so any advice appreciated
    on what to look for etc ?

    Tx

    F-z

    Is this a new garden or one you already have a mower for? If new what condition (grass length etc) if existing what have you tried so far?


  • Registered Users Posts: 122 ✭✭sheelbee


    kilburn wrote: »
    Any thoughts on McAllister v Mountfeld?

    Both Chinese.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    Discodog wrote: »
    Viking are getting a good reputation with contractors.

    I'm very happy with mine on a par with the pro Honda but not quite as intuitive/good but it can mulch if needed although I'm not keen on mulching I think it's the lazy slovenly option.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Discodog wrote: »
    Viking are getting a good reputation with contractors.

    I got a well used 20 year old 21" viking recently, top of the range with a plastic deck which was being discarded. It is a great machine. After 20 years everything is working as it should, bar a missing exhaust. It's easy to use with a very large grass box and pretty light as it's plastic. The plastic deck is in great nick. I would buy a similar new one in a heart beat. Expensive but worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,912 ✭✭✭kilburn


    sheelbee wrote:
    Both Chinese.

    And ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 122 ✭✭sheelbee


    kilburn wrote: »
    And ?

    And, where do you get parts ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,912 ✭✭✭kilburn


    Are the engines not Briggs & Stratton?


  • Registered Users Posts: 122 ✭✭sheelbee


    kilburn wrote: »
    Are the engines not Briggs & Stratton?

    What about blades wheels etc ??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 993 ✭✭✭737max


    sheelbee wrote: »
    What about blades wheels etc ??

    blade boss, flap, cables, etc... There is an acronym used in the cycling community which is BSO i.e. Bike Shaped Objects.
    The Chinese are in the habit of shipping an awful lot of Lawnmower shaped objects. A DIY store wouldn't know the difference as they just have to get through 26 weeks until the main growing season is over.
    A Dealer will see rubbish product when he works on it later.
    Blade bosses made from some sort of heat compressed metal literally disintegrate in to dust because compressed dust is cheaper than a machined solid blade boss.
    If it is sold out of store like a DIY store or a Aldi/LIDL and doesn't have a three year or more guarantee then you can be fairly sure that you are getting rubbish.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭f0zzy


    @my3cents - this is a mature garden - already have a mower for it - takes about an hour to mow normally.

    tx


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  • Registered Users Posts: 33,628 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Is Rover a good brand in lawnmowers?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 993 ✭✭✭737max


    They were when they were made in Australia.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,738 ✭✭✭deezell


    NIMAN wrote: »
    Is Rover a good brand in lawnmowers?

    One of the best and more expensive apparently.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    f0zzy wrote: »
    @my3cents - this is a mature garden - already have a mower for it - takes about an hour to mow normally.

    tx

    I went back and read your original post and you really aren't giving quite enough information. I'm assuming you don't have a ride on and are looking to get one?

    At your size of garden you may find its better to stick with a walk behind, an hour isn't a huge amount of time for grass cutting and adding a ride on might even make it longer (but easier) if you still have to get the walk behind for wet or sloping areas.

    If the issue is time I'd think first about cutting some of the grass away from the house without the grass box as I finding shifting grass around one of the biggest time wasters and just doing the areas nearer the house with the grass box on. Another time saver for boxing the grass of is a huge wheel barrow. I'm not talking the usual garden wheelbarrow that only holds two grass boxes at most but one of the massive two wheel barrows they use around stables (can hold 8 or more grass boxes full).

    tbh I wouldn't be happy with a ride on that costs much less that 4k new, until you hit that price bracket (might be a bit low) you don't get the features I like. Decent engine, hydrostatic drive, good grass pickup and emptying etc.

    Any ride on will sink in wet areas that you can just about navigate with a walk behind and my honda 2315 is rubbish on slopes. Then there is the other ride on problem of what to do with huge grass boxes of grass, after a few cuts I start to run out of places to dump the grass. If you have to back up to tip the grass box you end up in a mess after a while because you are in effect making silage and your dumping area becomes awash with slimy ooze.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    my3cents wrote: »
    I went back and read your original post and you really aren't giving quite enough information. I'm assuming you don't have a ride on and are looking to get one?

    At your size of garden you may find its better to stick with a walk behind, an hour isn't a huge amount of time for grass cutting and adding a ride on might even make it longer (but easier) if you still have to get the walk behind for wet or sloping areas.

    If the issue is time I'd think first about cutting some of the grass away from the house without the grass box as I finding shifting grass around one of the biggest time wasters and just doing the areas nearer the house with the grass box on. Another time saver for boxing the grass of is a huge wheel barrow. I'm not talking the usual garden wheelbarrow that only holds two grass boxes at most but one of the massive two wheel barrows they use around stables (can hold 8 or more grass boxes full).

    tbh I wouldn't be happy with a ride on that costs much less that 4k new, until you hit that price bracket (might be a bit low) you don't get the features I like. Decent engine, hydrostatic drive, good grass pickup and emptying etc.

    Any ride on will sink in wet areas that you can just about navigate with a walk behind and my honda 2315 is rubbish on slopes. Then there is the other ride on problem of what to do with huge grass boxes of grass, after a few cuts I start to run out of places to dump the grass. If you have to back up to tip the grass box you end up in a mess after a while because you are in effect making silage and your dumping area becomes awash with slimy ooze.

    I have found that bins work better than barrows. A dustbin can hold a lot of grass if you compress it with your foot. You can also empty it into a compact pile easier that with a barrow. I sometimes use two dustbins & a sack barrow. A wheelie bin also works well but it's heavy to empty.

    You can also easily make side extensions for a barrow. I have use corri board - old for sale signs. You can treble the capacity.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Discodog wrote: »
    I have found that bins work better than barrows. A dustbin can hold a lot of grass if you compress it with your foot. You can also empty it into a compact pile easier that with a barrow. I sometimes use two dustbins & a sack barrow. A wheelie bin also works well but it's heavy to empty.

    You can also easily make side extensions for a barrow. I have use corri board - old for sale signs. You can treble the capacity.

    This is what I use now, but don't look at the price :eek:
    0740516.jpg
    With the odd puncture repair I'm expecting it to out last me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    You can get a similar one that doubles as a trailer for a ride on & it tips.

    It will prove to be a cheap buy as it will outlast 20 builders barrows.

    I have never looked at the co op. more expensive than I would of expected.

    By the way we have it easy:

    cpt109409578-jpg.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,482 ✭✭✭RE*AC*TOR


    Hi folks. I have about 0.75 acre lawn, one large continuous piece making up the majority of that, with a couple of smaller bits.

    I have for the past couple of years been using a Jonsered LTH16 which I had picked up secondhand. Unfortunately the engine has gone on it, and I either need to replace the engine or get a new mower.

    Couple of questions

    - are there self-propelled mowers with v. large decks (ride on sizes)?
    - best value currently in new ride-on mowers?
    - what's the secondhand trade currently like? (best places to look and what to look for?)

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,738 ✭✭✭deezell


    RE*AC*TOR wrote: »
    Hi folks. I have about 0.75 acre lawn, one large continuous piece making up the majority of that, with a couple of smaller bits.

    I have for the past couple of years been using a Jonsered LTH16 which I had picked up secondhand. Unfortunately the engine has gone on it, and I either need to replace the engine or get a new mower.

    Couple of questions

    - are there self-propelled mowers with v. large decks (ride on sizes)?
    - best value currently in new ride-on mowers?
    - what's the secondhand trade currently like? (best places to look and what to look for?)

    Thanks.

    1. The Toro 30" is the biggest walk behind that I've seen, €1450
    http://www.jdslawnmowers.ie/toro-timemaster

    2. Another 500-grand will get you a quality ride on, 33-36". Decent 40" with Hydro drive maybe 3K
    http://www.jdslawnmowers.ie/LAWNFLITE-41-INCH-CUT-HYDRO

    3. For 2nd hand try adverts.ie. The odd quality brand appears, its up to you to haggle price. This John Deere looks like their own manufacture from 1999-2002, before they badged some generics later like CastelGarden, also a decent enough mower. Probably new in 2000-2002 , 42" Hydro, well minded looking. Bit pricey but it would be 4-5K new now.
    http://www.adverts.ie/ride-on/john-deer-ltr166/11209120


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    deezell wrote: »
    1. The Toro 30" is the biggest walk behind that I've seen, €1450
    http://www.jdslawnmowers.ie/toro-timemaster

    2. Another 500-grand will get you a quality ride on, 33-36". Decent 40" with Hydro drive maybe 3K
    http://www.jdslawnmowers.ie/LAWNFLITE-41-INCH-CUT-HYDRO

    3. For 2nd hand try adverts.ie. The odd quality brand appears, its up to you to haggle price. This John Deere looks like their own manufacture from 1999-2002, before they badged some generics later like CastelGarden, also a decent enough mower. Probably new in 2000-2002 , 42" Hydro, well minded looking. Bit pricey but it would be 4-5K new now.
    http://www.adverts.ie/ride-on/john-deer-ltr166/11209120

    I'll see your toro time master and raise you....,

    http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/lawnflite-wcm84e-wide-cut-lawn-mower.html

    Also 3-4K for a ride on is right at the bottom of the market tbh you'd be better off getting a good quality walk behind.


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