The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Check the blade bosses/ bushes to see if the blade locating lugs have sheared off, causing one or both blades to rotate out of alignment. They look like this
http://dermotcasey.com/product/viking-blade-boss-6360-702-5001/
You'll need to replace them if they have. If both blades move when you turn one the timing belt is still intact, but might need to be checked for damage.

Are these either side of the bolt holding on the blade? if so still in tact

Both blades rotate at same time as they would have done previous, just they are now inline. Am I hopeful in thinking all i need to do is disconnect and then put one at 90 degree?

I have no idea and cant seem to see any service places around

my3cents

The blade holder (not sure I'd call that a boss?) have two aluminum lugs that go into holes in the blade. If you really wack something you can bust the lugs off and the blade moves out of its normal position. Honda, Castle Garden and a load of other lawn tractors use the same blade holder.

If they need replacing you just take the bolt out of the blade (both left and right hand threads depending which way the blades turn) and you can with a bit of force get the blade holder off - its held in place by a woodruff key. Best replace bolts washes and blade holders at the same time.

However that said you should with the deck raised the blade belt disengaged and the BLADE BREAK held off (it goes on when you disengage the blade belt) be able to turn the blades to any angle you want.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Are these either side of the bolt holding on the blade? if so still in tact

Both blades rotate at same time as they would have done previous, just they are now inline. Am I hopeful in thinking all i need to do is disconnect and then put one at 90 degree?

I have no idea and cant seem to see any service places around

Did you check both blade holders (often called a Boss). I'd double check that the lugs you are seeing are not just the remains of the sheared lugs stuck in the blade holes. If old and corroded this can happen. Remove the centre nut and blade to be sure. The anti clockwise blade will have left hand thread, so loosen nut clockwise.
If the lugs are still intact then the only other possibility is the timing belt has slipped by a number of teeth on the toothed pulley.This could only happen if the belt was quite loose to begin with. It could also have sheared off the teeth though this is unlikely. You'll need to uncover this belt to examine it. Quite a task, deck may need to removed. Viking exploded parts diagram hard to find, Viking keep this info close to dealers chests. Here's Stihl list of dealers

http://www.stihl-dealer.ie/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5PDLBRB0EiwAh-27Ms9-nm_jewyyJdc3l2e9hla8vHtwUxdAJHsJ73XXBXyEXTPysP7_CBoC_zkQAvD_BwE
Incomplete, there are many more who sell and service Viking.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Did you check both blade holders (often called a Boss). I'd double check that the lugs you are seeing are not just the remains of the sheared lugs stuck in the blade holes. If old and corroded this can happen. Remove the centre nut and blade to be sure. The anti clockwise blade will have left hand thread, so loosen nut clockwise.
If the lugs are still intact then the only other possibility is the timing belt has slipped by a number of teeth on the toothed pulley.This could only happen if the belt was quite loose to begin with. It could also have sheared off the teeth though this is unlikely. You'll need to uncover this belt to examine it. Quite a task, deck may need to removed. Viking exploded parts diagram hard to find, Viking keep this info close to dealers chests. Here's Stihl list of dealers

http://www.stihl-dealer.ie/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5PDLBRB0EiwAh-27Ms9-nm_jewyyJdc3l2e9hla8vHtwUxdAJHsJ73XXBXyEXTPysP7_CBoC_zkQAvD_BwE
Incomplete, there are many more who sell and service Viking.

Thanks, will put it up later and have a look, machine is only 1 year old. I only opened one blade so need to check the other...

Hopefully something small like that to replace...

To get at the belt it looks like removing the deck....

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks, will put it up later and have a look, machine is only 1 year old. I only opened one blade so need to check the other...

Hopefully something small like that to replace...

To get at the belt it looks like removing the deck....

I'm told by owner of used Viking I just bought that the deck is a doddle to drop, couple of pins and slip off belt. Hopefully you won't need to drop to replace the holder if lugs are sheared. Holder should come off with a few sharp downward taps, but I'm not familiar yet with Viking construction, and they don't publish diagrams or parts lists. It's usually cast aluminium as my3cents said, and if you have a new one ready to fit then you can grind/ cut the old on one side and split it off. Only caution is that you have a years warranty left, don't invalidate it.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

I'm told by owner of used Viking I just bought that the deck is a doddle to drop, couple of pins and slip off belt. Hopefully you won't need to drop to replace the holder if lugs are sheared. Holder should come off with a few sharp downward taps, but I'm not familiar yet with Viking construction, and they don't publish diagrams or parts lists. It's usually cast aluminium as my3cents said, and if you have a new one ready to fit then you can grind/ cut the old on one side and split it off. Only caution is that you have a years warranty left, don't invalidate it.

Thanks for advice, will try it. All new to me.

From the limited manual it does seem easy to drop deck alright....it right it is very easy

Just out of interest, in the Dublin area is there a lawnmower service that can actually go to your property? I went into local supplier, they are husqvarna but seemed to service everything....they only do at the store and I don't have transport for mower

Will let you know how I get on

Shefwedfan

Ok, so put it back up. When I remove the blade I have the pic, that part is holding the blade. Both of them look intact. From what it looks the little rises of steel are supposed to sheer off if you hit a big rock etc. This doesn't seemed to have happened on either

I took picture and you can see both blades are inline and touching when spinning

Tried a couple of things but it will not allow one blade spin without the other.

Looks like only option is take deck off and then move without belt attached. A job too far for me.

So any idea of service guy in the D15 area? Probably going to pay a few extra quid to get them to come onsite.

Disaster

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks for advice, will try it. All new to me.

From the limited manual it does seem easy to drop deck alright....it right it is very easy

Just out of interest, in the Dublin area is there a lawnmower service that can actually go to your property? I went into local supplier, they are husqvarna but seemed to service everything....they only do at the store and I don't have transport for mower

Will let you know how I get on

Leixlip hire opposite Intel are Viking service agents, being a hire place they might do a collect return, but expect a charge. They may lend you a trailer on deposit to bring it over if you have a towbar, on the promise of a bit of valuable repair business.

my3cents

A picture of the top of the deck with the pulleys exposed would help.

Shefwedfan

my3cents wrote: »

A picture of the top of the deck with the pulleys exposed would help.

There is plastic casing, to remove the screws you would need to drop the deck off the mower. I don't want to start that as I have no idea if I take off how the hell I will get back off. One screw in particular is blocked right up against steel so no hope without dropping deck

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

There is plastic casing, to remove the screws you would need to drop the deck off the mower. I don't want to start that as I have no idea if I take off how the hell I will get back off. One screw in particular is blocked right up against steel so no hope without dropping deck

The reason for asking is then we could see why the blades are going around together but I know what you mean by one screw being blocked in. I assumed you had the deck off but can now see from the second picture its still on the mower.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

There is plastic casing, to remove the screws you would need to drop the deck off the mower. I don't want to start that as I have no idea if I take off how the hell I will get back off. One screw in particular is blocked right up against steel so no hope without dropping deck

Nothing wrong with leaving it to the professionals, especially if you have one year warranty remaining. Starting to look like the timing belt has slipped on the toothed pulley, so it could be damaged. That's the only way the shafts could be out of timing. There's usually an extra layers of belts, pulleys, electric clutch, to remove to get to the timing belt to replace it or reset it ( if not damaged)

Shefwedfan

my3cents wrote: »

The reason for asking is then we could see why the blades are going around together but I know what you mean by one screw being blocked in. I assumed you had the deck off but can now see from the second picture its still on the mower.

Deck is still on, I can see how to drop it off but this is first mower and just learning as I go.

The below pic is on top of the deck which seems to suggest there is 2 belts

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Deck is still on, I can see how to drop it off but this is first mower and just learning as I go.

The below pic is on top of the deck which seems to suggest there is 2 belts

Its that twin belt build that helps make it easier to remove the deck.I assume its the belt on the deck itself the one that goes around the 4 pulleys is the one that has a movable pulley that is the clutch for the blade movement.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Deck is still on, I can see how to drop it off but this is first mower and just learning as I go.

The below pic is on top of the deck which seems to suggest there is 2 belts

First belt is standard v belt. This drives the lower serpentine toothed timing belt which rotates the blades in opposition. Top belt at least and maybe it's pulley will need to be removed to replace the serpentine belt if its damaged, but only the cover needs removing to loosen it and reset the timing. FWIW, the belt shouldn't slip before the lugs shear, unless it was loose. You could invoke warranty.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

First belt is standard v belt. This drives the lower serpentine toothed timing belt which rotates the blades in opposition. Top belt at least and maybe it's pulley will need to be removed to replace the serpentine belt if its damaged, but only the cover needs removing to loosen it and reset the timing. FWIW, the belt shouldn't slip before the lugs ahead, unless it was loose. You could invoke warranty.

Contacted the original dealer, everywhere is closed on Sunday anyway so will see what comes back.....

Roadtoad

My garden is too big for a 'standard' walk-behind, and too bitty (5 pieces) for a tractor.The total site is 0.75 acre, so about half acre of grass, dead flat. I saw the Toro twin blade 30" /76cm unit in a shop, and liked the look. Where are Toro in the spectrum of manufacturers? Who else is in this market space? The Toro seems a bit spends at €1500+. I tend to 'collect' near the house only.

deezell

Roadtoad wrote: »

My garden is too big for a 'standard' walk-behind, and too bitty (5 pieces) for a tractor.The total site is 0.75 acre, so about half acre of grass, dead flat. I saw the Toro twin blade 30" /76cm unit in a shop, and liked the look. Where are Toro in the spectrum of manufacturers? Who else is in this market space? The Toro seems a bit spends at €1500+. I tend to 'collect' near the house only.

Toro is high end. Search back a bit here, that walk behind twin was discussed.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Contacted the original dealer, everywhere is closed on Sunday anyway so will see what comes back.....

Had a read of the user manual for that machine. Very easy to drop deck, slide it out and then see if cover can be removed without taking off pulleys ( required on Castelgarden deck). You'll be able to check the toothed timing belt for damage, say missing teeth, and if its ok figure how to loosen the tensioner, reset the belt so the blades are at 45°, then put it together again.

49801

Roadtoad wrote: »

My garden is too big for a 'standard' walk-behind, and too bitty (5 pieces) for a tractor.The total site is 0.75 acre, so about half acre of grass, dead flat. I saw the Toro twin blade 30" /76cm unit in a shop, and liked the look. Where are Toro in the spectrum of manufacturers? Who else is in this market space? The Toro seems a bit spends at €1500+. I tend to 'collect' near the house only.

I picked up a commercial twin blade toro a turfmaster. Similar size garden. But one block with no obstacles currently. Takes 1.5-2hrs and I bag all. Does not like bagging long grass though. Finish is great!

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Had a read of the user manual for that machine. Very easy to drop deck, slide it out and then see if cover can be removed without taking off pulleys ( required on Castelgarden deck). You'll be able to check the toothed timing belt for damage, say missing teeth, and if its ok figure how to loosen the tensioner, reset the belt so the blades are at 45°, then put it together again.

Had a chat with guy today, he says that he think the timing belt is gone and 150 quid to replace it

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Had a chat with guy today, he says that he think the timing belt is gone and 150 quid to replace it

Sounds a bit expensive but how can the timing belt be gone if its still working all be it that the timing is out and you can move it back.

deezell

my3cents wrote: »

Sounds a bit expensive but how can the timing belt be gone if its still working all be it that the timing is out and you can move it back.

Teeth will be stripped off but belt is still intact, it will rotate the blades but slip out of timing under pressure when the stripped part wraps around the toothed pulley.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Had a chat with guy today, he says that he think the timing belt is gone and 150 quid to replace it

Also €I50 I presume includes the fitting cost. These belts sell for 45 -55€, probably more as a dealer spare part, so €150 about right with vat and labour . If you have the old one you can measure the tooth pitch, usually 8mm, count the no of teeth and also the height, typically 20mm, and length, ( pitch x no. of teeth). You can search for a belt online with this info, or call engineering places like fox engineering or reliance gear and bearing. Belts kept as genuine spare parts usually multiple of the trade price, but it's not easy to get the exact part no of Viking belts to search for generics.

Chocolate Teapot

The alarm on our ride on Castelgarden twin cut beeps constantly when cutting, but as soon as the blades are disengaged it stops. Has anyone come across this before?

MascotDec85

Chocolate Teapot wrote: »

The alarm on our ride on Castelgarden twin cut beeps constantly when cutting, but as soon as the blades are disengaged it stops. Has anyone come across this before?

Sounds like the sensor thinks the box is full

Chocolate Teapot

MascotDec85 wrote: »

Sounds like the sensor thinks the box is full

That's good to know, thanks! Is it possible to fix the sensor?

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Also €I50 I presume includes the fitting cost. These belts sell for 45 -55€, probably more as a dealer spare part, so €150 about right with vat and labour . If you have the old one you can measure the tooth pitch, usually 8mm, count the no of teeth and also the height, typically 20mm, and length, ( pitch x no. of teeth). You can search for a belt online with this info, or call engineering places like fox engineering or reliance gear and bearing. Belts kept as genuine spare parts usually multiple of the trade price, but it's not easy to get the exact part no of Viking belts to search for generics.

The 150 would including fitting etc so sounds about right...

The guy I bought it off has offered to come up and see if he can fix onsite. Based on what I have said he thinks he will be able to. So fingers crossed.

Going to make sure I am there with him so I get a look at taking off deck etc so I know a bit more next time.....

Chocolate Teapot

Chocolate Teapot wrote: »

That's good to know, thanks! Is it possible to fix the sensor?

Is there a thing under the the grass chute on the back panel that presses in when the bag is full. Grass or diet here could have this pressed in all the time. Clean around it maybe

amandstu

Is it hard to repair a drive (Masport)?

I had the cable tightened to the max and the drive was squeaking but working.if not strongly.

After the service I was told there was a problem with the drive but he had done nothing.

I get it back . The squeak has gone but the drive is practically non existent.

Is there anything I can attempt to do?(it is both wheels)


Before ,when the problem first started I took a hammer to the cable/lever to get extra tightness as I imagined the mechanism could be rusty and this procedure got the wheels to spin enough for the machine to be usable That same trick no longer helps....

I am going to guess a new drive will be more than a hundred eu .

Will I need any special tools to look at it or fit a new one.