The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Also €I50 I presume includes the fitting cost. These belts sell for 45 -55€, probably more as a dealer spare part, so €150 about right with vat and labour . If you have the old one you can measure the tooth pitch, usually 8mm, count the no of teeth and also the height, typically 20mm, and length, ( pitch x no. of teeth). You can search for a belt online with this info, or call engineering places like fox engineering or reliance gear and bearing. Belts kept as genuine spare parts usually multiple of the trade price, but it's not easy to get the exact part no of Viking belts to search for generics.

Thanks for all the advice. Guy came up from garage yesterday. The belt wasn't broke and just had slipped. Checked the full belt.

He was able to get at belts without taking off deck so I know now how to do it. Took him about 30 mins and back up and running.....

Cost the massive sum of €50, I did offer more but he wouldn't take. Need to buy a strimmer so going to buy off them and return the favour so to speak...

Anyway got a run over lawn earlier and everything flying, thanks again

deezell

Great the belt wasn't damaged. It would have to be quite loose to jump the teeth without shearing. Probable reason was the machine and belt were brand new, the belt would do any stretching in its first few months of life, ideally an end of season service would retension it. If you jam the blades normally the upper v belt will slip and burn, the toothed belt holds its position.

my3cents

deezell wrote: »

Great the belt wasn't damaged. It would have to be quite loose to jump the teeth without shearing. Probable reason was the machine and belt were brand new, the belt would do any stretching in its first few months of life, ideally an end of season service would retension it. If you jam the blades normally the upper v belt will slip and burn, the toothed belt holds its position.

It seemed quite likely the belt wasn't damaged. If it had been damaged then at some point while trying to turn the blades back to their correct positions in relation to one another they would have moved a bit even part way back the way they should.

deezell

my3cents wrote: »

It seemed quite likely the belt wasn't damaged. If it had been damaged then at some point while trying to turn the blades back to their correct positions in relation to one another they would have moved a bit even part way back the way they should.

If some of the teeth had sheared the timing would still be rigid until you rotated the blades such that the flattened area of the belt was directly over the toothed pulley of the blade. Belt is toothed both sides also, to facilitate opposing rotation of the blades, so only a specific blade would be affected, and with the flat over the pulley only them might you be able to force the pulley to slip under the belt, but there would still be considerable resistance. Only way for sure is to check the belt for damage. A properly tensioned belt just wont slip without scrubbing the teeth off or breaking. I said it earlier, there was no certainty the belt has survived such a jolt, which in all probability is more likely to snap the belt than shear the teeth. Unlike a car timing belt a slip or break is not catastrophic!

deezell

amandstu wrote: »

Is it hard to repair a drive (Masport)?

I had the cable tightened to the max and the drive was squeaking but working.if not strongly.

After the service I was told there was a problem with the drive but he had done nothing.

I get it back . The squeak has gone but the drive is practically non existent.

Is there anything I can attempt to do?(it is both wheels)


Before ,when the problem first started I took a hammer to the cable/lever to get extra tightness as I imagined the mechanism could be rusty and this procedure got the wheels to spin enough for the machine to be usable That same trick no longer helps....

I am going to guess a new drive will be more than a hundred eu .

Will I need any special tools to look at it or fit a new one.

Easy enough to fit, few screws and clips at most. Hardest and costliest part is getting the replacement drive. It's all one unit, axle shafts and gearbox. You just refit your existing wheels to it and slot it back into the mower, attaching the cable, height lever and belt. Here's s link to Masport parts diagrams. http://www.masportlawnmowers.co.uk/masport-150-st-combo.html#.WYWHKnMo_qB
Find your mower, open pdf parts list, get part number. Are masport an Australian brand. I'm only finding priced in Oz online shops, about 110 dollars. Expect to pay 100+ here.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Great the belt wasn't damaged. It would have to be quite loose to jump the teeth without shearing. Probable reason was the machine and belt were brand new, the belt would do any stretching in its first few months of life, ideally an end of season service would retension it. If you jam the blades normally the upper v belt will slip and burn, the toothed belt holds its position.

Thanks for help again

Mower was new last year but really has only been used this year so it would only be due a service at end of this year. Belt could have been loose as you say because he triple checked no damage. I had told him before he came I thought the belt might be gone so he had come prepared to swap it. He did have to drive about 45-60 mins each way to get to me....

He did say on the Viking, they have sold a lot of them but so far only 2 belts have gone. They are also dealer for other mowers and the belt seems to go more frequent on them.

Took it for another spin today and its flying....

amandstu

deezell wrote: »

Easy enough to fit, few screws and clips at most. Hardest and costliest part is getting the replacement drive. It's all one unit, axle shafts and gearbox. You just refit your existing wheels to it and slot it back into the mower, attaching the cable, height lever and belt. Here's s link to Masport parts diagrams. http://www.masportlawnmowers.co.uk/masport-150-st-combo.html#.WYWHKnMo_qB
Find your mower, open pdf parts list, get part number. Are masport an Australian brand. I'm only finding priced in Oz online shops, about 110 dollars. Expect to pay 100+ here.

thanks,yes Aus or NZ.

I got a blade last year so I should be able to get more parts alright.

Just wondering if I might have any joy opening up the casing and maybe freeing up a clogged mechanism or applying oil somewhere.

deezell

amandstu wrote: »

thanks,yes Aus or NZ.

I got a blade last year so I should be able to get more parts alright.

Just wondering if I might have any joy opening up the casing and maybe freeing up a clogged mechanism or applying oil somewhere.

You've nothing to lose if its not pulling. There are two types of drive, dog clutch and friction. Dog is a kind of on off where two toothed plates mesh. Friction is usually two cone shaped surfaces which are pressed together and grip by friction. The latter can get worn out from slipping rendering it useless. I've opened and meddled with one of these to restore grip. It worked for a while but was now overheating due to increased pressure while slipping and it ended up melting the nylon pulley overhead. €125 for a new one which after 8 years is beginning to age and lose a little torque. 18 year old Stiga perfect otherwise. I've not opened a dog type but there may be a slip mechanism inside them also for overload.

amandstu

deezell wrote: »

You've nothing to lose if its not pulling. There are two types of drive, dog clutch and friction. Dog is a kind of on off where two toothed plates mesh. Friction is usually two cone shaped surfaces which are pressed together and grip by friction. The latter can get worn out from slipping rendering it useless. I've opened and meddled with one of these to restore grip. It worked for a while but was now overheating due to increased pressure while slipping and it ended up melting the nylon pulley overhead. €125 for a new one which after 8 years is beginning to age and lose a little torque. 18 year old Stiga perfect otherwise. I've not opened a dog type but there may be a slip mechanism inside them also for overload.

I took a closer look and have managed to get the driver to engage by pulling on the cabling as a whole.

It must be very badly rusted inside ,is my guess .

So I have tried spraying WD4O into the small opening of the cable and hope that gravity and time will free it.

Otherwise I will just get a new cable or canabalise a redundant one I have if it is the same length.

By tying string and rope around the part of the mower that I do the pushing/ steering with I have rigged the machine out like a sailing boat ( ) well enough to get the lawns done until such time as I fix the problem properly.

deezell

amandstu wrote: »

I took a closer look and have managed to get the driver to engage by pulling on the cabling as a whole.

It must be very badly rusted inside ,is my guess .

So I have tried spraying WD4O into the small opening of the cable and hope that gravity and time will free it.

Otherwise I will just get a new cable or canabalise a redundant one I have if it is the same length.

By tying string and rope around the part of the mower that I do the pushing/ steering with I have rigged the machine out like a sailing boat ( ) well enough to get the lawns done until such time as I fix the problem properly.

Of course if the cable is not fully pulling the clutch lever then it will never engage. The clutch and it's lever is unlikely to seize as this is usually filled with a lubricant. I'm surprised this wasn't picked up during a service. Cable probably frayed and broken internally and just keeps stretching. Ingenuity called for until you get a new one. I made an arrangement with coat hanger wire last time my traction cable broke while I awaited a new internet one.

amandstu

deezell wrote: »

Of course if the cable is not fully pulling the clutch lever then it will never engage. The clutch and it's lever is unlikely to seize as this is usually filled with a lubricant. I'm surprised this wasn't picked up during a service. Cable probably frayed and broken internally and just keeps stretching. Ingenuity called for until you get a new one. I made an arrangement with coat hanger wire last time my traction cable broke while I awaited a new internet one.

He seemed a bit mystified ("something strange"), said he didn't look into it too much as I had only wanted a service.

When he gave it back he showed me how the drive was working but only barely.

When I got her home she pegged out almost entirely and I was really just pushing her until today when I managed to get the drive lever to move.

Previously in the season I had been able to get the drive to engage by means of a few hammer blows to the cable at the top end (the hand lever) but this no longer worked and so I had to investigate more closely.

Lemlin

It's approaching end of season and I still haven't bought. Is there any value to be gained now that it's near end of season or am I as well off wait until next year and buy then? I know my brother bought around this time last year and didn't find there were any big reductions.

I've been borrowing a mower recently but would like to get back to having my own sooner rather than later but am willing to wait if there's no point purchasing now.

deezell

Lemlin wrote: »

It's approaching end of season and I still haven't bought. Is there any value to be gained now that it's near end of season or am I as well off wait until next year and buy then? I know my brother bought around this time last year and didn't find there were any big reductions.

I've been borrowing a mower recently but would like to get back to having my own sooner rather than later but am willing to wait if there's no point purchasing now.

I guess warranty wasting away over the winter is an issue, not so much if you get 2 years. Sterling on the floor so huge value in Norn Iron sellers with stock at pre slide prices. Some deliver to South also.

Discodog

Lemlin wrote: »

It's approaching end of season and I still haven't bought. Is there any value to be gained now that it's near end of season or am I as well off wait until next year and buy then? I know my brother bought around this time last year and didn't find there were any big reductions.

I've been borrowing a mower recently but would like to get back to having my own sooner rather than later but am willing to wait if there's no point purchasing now.

I always buy around October & usually online.

Lemlin

deezell wrote: »

I guess warranty wasting away over the winter is an issue, not so much if you get 2 years. Sterling on the floor so huge value in Norn Iron sellers with stock at pre slide prices. Some deliver to South also.

I had priced in NI before though and didn't find a huge difference in prices to be honest.

http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/al-ko-t16-102hd-edition-lawn-garden-tractor.html

For example, 2499GBP (so 2728E) and I was offered this locally at 2900E before I even counter offered. I'd prefer to spend the 150 and buy locally. That 2499GBP doesn't include delivery either.

And

http://www.amrentals.co.uk/ride-on-lawnmowers-northern-ireland.htm

Viking 5112 that I had is 3149GBP there (3439E). I've been offered it cheaper locally.

deezell

You also have the comfort of a local warranty. BTW, your earlier posts about the Kubota buyer ditching his Viking over wet grass mowing seems more believable, since I struggled to mow dew sodden soft grass a week ago after days of rain. Chute kept clogging. I'm going to dry teflon spray the inside to see if it improves matters. I was hoping that issue was left behind when I retired the Castelgarden.

Lemlin

deezell wrote: »

You also have the comfort of a local warranty. BTW, your earlier posts about the Kubota buyer ditching his Viking over wet grass mowing seems more believable, since I struggled to mow dew sodden soft grass a week ago after days of rain. Chute kept clogging. I'm going to dry teflon spray the inside to see if it improves matters. I was hoping that issue was left behind when I retired the Castelgarden.

I've been using a €7k Kubota and it has also been clogging with few wet grass, albeit long because I am now mowing every 2/3 weeks.

I don't think mowers like wet grass and that's that!

Discodog

Lemlin wrote: »

I've been using a €7k Kubota and it has also been clogging with few wet grass, albeit long because I am now mowing every 2/3 weeks.

I don't think mowers like wet grass and that's that!

If grass has to be thrown over a rear axle it will always clog. The only mower that copes perfectly with long wet grass is the Etesia because it doesn't have a rear axle to get in the way.

RosieJoe

I have a medium sized garden and I am looking at picking up a new petrol mower. Are the Qualcast from Argos or Pro-lawn from Woodies any good? Both have a B&S 450E engine.

oceanclub

We've a tiny (6 msq) back lawn; can anyone recommend a very small manual mower which isn't rubbish? (Surprised to see even the Bosch one gets a lot of 1 star reviews on Amazon for being flimsy with plastic parts)

P.

deezell

oceanclub wrote: »

We've a tiny (6 msq) back lawn; can anyone recommend a very small manual mower which isn't rubbish? (Surprised to see even the Bosch one gets a lot of 1 star reviews on Amazon for being flimsy with plastic parts)

P.

6sq metres of this stuff from €60 to €180 and never have to mow again!
https://artificialgrass.ie/leinster-artificial-premium-grass.html

deezell

This stuff worked well on the grass chute to stop clogging.

Brush or pressure clean chute, dry off and apply a nice coat. €6 In Halfords.

All in all

Hi, any advice on a self propelled mower with a budget of €400? Do places start to clear them around this time of year?

All in all

All in all wrote: »

Hi, any advice on a self propelled mower with a budget of €400? Do places start to clear them around this time of year?

http://www.stihl.co.uk/VIKING-Products/Lawn-Mowers/Petrol-lawn-mowers-for-small-to-medium-sized-lawns/22192-722/MB-448-T.aspx

http://butleroutdoorpower.com/product/gardenpride-18-self-propelled-lawnmower-3-in-1/

I can get the 2 of these locally to me for around budget, I presume the viking is the better machine.

deezell

I can get the 2 of these locally to me for around budget, I presume the viking is the better machine.

Viking probably a tighter machine, a good deal if only 399, but check out this 51cm cut in Chadwicks for €359

http://www.chadwicks.ie/garden/product/hyundai-51cm-self-propelled-4-in-1-petrol-lawnmower

All in all

deezell wrote: »

Viking probably a tighter machine, a good deal if only 399, but check out this 51cm cut in Chadwicks for €359

http://www.chadwicks.ie/garden/product/hyundai-51cm-self-propelled-4-in-1-petrol-lawnmower

Cheers - do you know are the hyundai machines normally good?

€440 for the viking but he will come down a bit, €350 for the garden pride machine. Will go to a Chadwicks to look at that machine.

deezell

All in all wrote: »

Cheers - do you know are the hyundai machines normally good?

€440 for the viking but he will come down a bit, €350 for the garden pride machine. Will go to a Chadwicks to look at that machine.

I've no experience of them, but for next year I was considering its bigger brother with electric start and variable speed, which come in at €150 more, €509 before haggling.
http://www.chadwicks.ie/garden/product/hyundai-5hp-51cm-lawnmower-electric-start
This gets 4 stars on this review,fwiw.
https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjoma7ZuovXAhWLORoKHb1cDuAQFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Flawnmowerwizard.com%2Fpetrolmowers%2Fhyundai-hym51spe-petrol-lawn-mower-review%2F&usg=AOvVaw1VzuPz9WtozZaMPXFl7Boy

All in all

deezell wrote: »

I've no experience of them, but for next year I was considering its bigger brother with electric start and variable speed, which come in at €150 more, €509 before haggling.
http://www.chadwicks.ie/garden/product/hyundai-5hp-51cm-lawnmower-electric-start
This gets 4 stars on this review,fwiw.
https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjoma7ZuovXAhWLORoKHb1cDuAQFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Flawnmowerwizard.com%2Fpetrolmowers%2Fhyundai-hym51spe-petrol-lawn-mower-review%2F&usg=AOvVaw1VzuPz9WtozZaMPXFl7Boy

Hi, I went to have a look at the Hyundai you linked, it was €349 in store and the other you linked is €499 so €10 cheaper than the website. I think I will pass it and will probably go for the viking which is a much lot lighter machine, with the polymer housing.

The Hyundai seemed very heavy and I think the smaller size will be fine for my needs, hopefully I can pick it up for closer €400.

deezell

All in all wrote: »

Hi, I went to have a look at the Hyundai you linked, it was €349 in store and the other you linked is €499 so €10 cheaper than the website. I think I will pass it and will probably go for the viking which is a much lot lighter machine, with the polymer housing.

The Hyundai seemed very heavy and I think the smaller size will be fine for my needs, hopefully I can pick it up for closer €400.

I'll check out the Viking myself, I'm very happy with the Tractor one I bought used this summer. Herself does all the hand mower work on slopes too steep for the tractor, a lighter machine would be a good replacement for our current Stiga Diecast , it weighs a ton.

I've decided to get myself a new mower next Spring so am doing some research before I purchase.
I currently use an Aldi (I think) Gardenline self propelled mower that was gifted to me a number of years ago.
It usually takes me around 2 1/4 hours to cut all the grass areas. For the past few months I have been cutting regularly and leaving the cuttings on the grass. The lawn has become green and healthy looking as a result, without and fertilizer needed.

I have therefore decided to get a dedicated mulching mower.

I've a few in mind
http://www.husqvarna.com/ie/products/lawn-mowers/lb-553s/967257101/

https://www.lawnmowersdirect.co.uk/product/honda-hrs536sde

https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-multiclip-plus-50s-steel-deck-st45-sp-multiclip-plus50s.html?filter_set[]=1&filter_set[]=3,411&page=3

Has anyone any experience of any of these mowers or like to recommend something else?

Thanks