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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Sorry . . . With photos attached this time :

    Just looking at that machine I get the feeling it should have disks with cutters on them that just cut and drop like the old Hayter Condor. Essentially a disk the size of a dinner plate with 2 small 3-4inch long swing cutters bolted on. Just a guess.

    I've seen the disk replaced with a mulching blade on those; it didn't work out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    Thanks again for your info deezell. Much appreciated.
    There is a little opening at the left rear, but only because of wear and tear. It was closed full round initially. See pictures attached. The blade at the left is a mulcher blade . I've taken it off since but it's not bent. Will get what new straight ones. Is it two "flat" blades that would be best yea?
    There seems to be a devided between both blades but it looks like a bit of the centre has been beaten away at some stage.

    Would my best option be to put on two new "flat" blades , fix the divider between 2 blades, and make a small hole at the right hand side of the deck ( right hand side as your mowing that is) ?? Or what shud i do to make it run more freely when cutting? I'm not to bothered about mulching once I can mow at a reasonable fast pace without the more shaking itself apart every so often. The way it is now, i need to frequently lean back on the handles to raise the deck so to give it a chance to clear itself up.

    I'd say get rid of the mulcher blade ( there's only one fitted?) , get two new sharp blades and clean and scrape the deck. A good coat of rust paint wouldnt go astray, stop the grass sticking. See how it goes from there before cutting metal. It looks like it's well used all right, any battered bits that can trap grass will provide an obstacle to the blades. It looks like grass is meant to exit on the right viewed from behind, which then strikes that big flat plate. I suppose nothing to lose by cutting a section out..


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭blackbox


    If you're making an opening you ought to also fit a chute to prevent anything from being fired out and causing an injury or damage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    my3cents wrote: »
    Just looking at that machine I get the feeling it should have disks with cutters on them that just cut and drop like the old Hayter Condor. Essentially a disk the size of a dinner plate with 2 small 3-4inch long swing cutters bolted on. Just a guess.

    I've seen the disk replaced with a mulching blade on those; it didn't work out.

    Not sure about that. Never seen one of those so don't know


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    deezell wrote: »
    I'd say get rid of the mulcher blade ( there's only one fitted?) , get two new sharp blades and clean and scrape the deck. A good coat of rust paint wouldnt go astray, stop the grass sticking. See how it goes from there before cutting metal. It looks like it's well used all right, any battered bits that can trap grass will provide an obstacle to the blades. It looks like grass is meant to exit on the right viewed from behind, which then strikes that big flat plate. I suppose nothing to lose by cutting a section out..
    I've drawn out the deck. See attached. Yes only one mulcher blade on it. Where would be the best place to cut a square out of the deck do you think? Also , I wonder should I repair the damaged plate between the blades , or would i be better off remove it altogether if I'm going making hole at side ?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    Just two more photos of underneath the deck attached. I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to cut away the plate between the 2 blades and cut whole in right deck . Putting on 2 new flat blades . . . And painting as you advised ??

    Would that be the way to go ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    Just two more photos of underneath the deck attached. I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to cut away the plate between the 2 blades and cut whole in right deck . Putting on 2 new flat blades . . . And painting as you advised ??

    Would that be the way to go ??

    It looks like it's meant to drive the cut grass to the right viewed from behind, which then strikes the outer right plate and is left in small row. Definitely scrape clean and if possible repair the divider This will help the fan action of the blades to propel the grass out. I'd swap that mulcher blade for a normal one and try it out first, before cutting extra holes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    deezell wrote: »
    It looks like it's meant to drive the cut grass to the right viewed from behind, which then strikes the outer right plate and is left in small row. Definitely scrape clean and if possible repair the divider This will help the fan action of the blades to propel the grass out. I'd swap that mulcher blade for a normal one and try it out first, before cutting extra holes.

    Thanks for that. Does it not also look like the grass is to be directed out the back from both blades ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    Thanks for that. Does it not also look like the grass is to be directed out the back from both blades ?

    That would happen if the blades were contra rotating towards the centre like a rear bag mower, but both blades rotate clockwise thrusting the grass to the right, hence these mowers are side eject. I reckon the grass is meant to go out the right side where the inner skirt is open and then strike the big right plate from where the cuttngs form a line as you walk. Some cuttings will recirculate and just fall down. The more lift on the blade the more recirculation. The flatter the blade the less. With that mulcher blade most of the cuttings are being dragged back in and being rechopped by the top serrated lift edge, which must put a strain on the mower when the grass is anyway long or damp. I bet a flat blade here will make all the difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭boxty


    Anyone have experience of Toro recycler mowers? Are they good? Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    Thanks very much deezell.

    I've the deck taken off now . I will definitely get too new flat blades.

    Looking at the deck now, it looks like the grass is to go out the rear , 2 separate rows of grass, one per blade. Otherwise we would not have a centre plate. . . .do you think?

    I will rebuild this centre plate anyway , as you can see there's a chunk gone out of it. , and ill paint it up.

    Please let me know if you think I should do anymore.


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    What do you guys think of the Stiga brand and model Stiga Collector 48B (Push)

    https://www.fitzhire.ie/walk-behinds/271-stiga-collector-48b-push.html
    https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-collector-48b-push-steel-deck-bs450e-collector-48b.html?filter_set[]=1,26,523
    https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/stiga-combi-48-push-lawn-mower-bs-550e-mulching-system-petrol-lawn-mower-p-10220.html


    I was going to press the button on Morrison Classic (€300 from gardenmachinery.ie) but I came across this site www.agrieuro.co.uk. The above Stiga model is €271 including delivery, oil and servicing kit when it will cost €355 from Doyles and €332 from Fitz hire.


    Edit: Delivery is €20.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    Thanks very much deezell.

    I've the deck taken off now . I will definitely get too new flat blades.

    Looking at the deck now, it looks like the grass is to go out the rear , 2 separate rows of grass, one per blade. Otherwise we would not have a centre plate. . . .do you think?

    I will rebuild this centre plate anyway , as you can see there's a chunk gone out of it. , and ill paint it up.

    Please let me know if you think I should do anymore.

    You're right, its much clearer to see now. There are two vertical exit guide plates visible, each with a slope down from the top to direct the grass into the ground. Its harder to see the nearer one in the picture because, looking at the big edge plate next to the removed blade, I think this plate should be straight, but it seems to be bent in at the back. This would prevent the grass exiting cleanly and may be what's labouring the mower as the cut grass can't leave this side. Also the sloping part of this guide is corroded with a big hole in it, further trapping the grass. Straighten the heavy side plate from over the exit guide, weld up that hole and get rid of the mulcher blade. Fix up the centre guides to prevent grass from the left drum crossing over and over loading the right. Welder time!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    bbari wrote: »
    What do you guys think of the Stiga brand and model Stiga Collector 48B (Push)

    https://www.fitzhire.ie/walk-behinds/271-stiga-collector-48b-push.html
    https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-collector-48b-push-steel-deck-bs450e-collector-48b.html?filter_set[]=1,26,523
    https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/stiga-combi-48-push-lawn-mower-bs-550e-mulching-system-petrol-lawn-mower-p-10220.html


    I was going to press the button on Morrison Classic (€300 from gardenmachinery.ie) but I came across this site www.agrieuro.co.uk. The above Stiga model is €271 including delivery, oil and servicing kit when it will cost €355 from Doyles and €332 from Fitz hire.

    Go for it. 550e engine is a 140cc engine, buckets of power for a 46cm cut. Stiga still a good brand, plenty of parts available, not that you're likely to have much issues with a push mower once the basics are of good quality. You'll still be pushing it in ten years time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    deezell wrote: »
    You're right, its much clearer to see now. There are two vertical exit guide plates visible, each with a slope down from the top to direct the grass into the ground. Its harder to see the nearer one in the picture because, looking at the big edge plate next to the removed blade, I think this plate should be straight, but it seems to be bent in at the back. This would prevent the grass exiting cleanly and may be what's labouring the mower as the cut grass can't leave this side. Also the sloping part of this guide is corroded with a big hole in it, further trapping the grass. Straighten the heavy side plate from over the exit guide, weld up that hole and get rid of the mulcher blade. Fix up the centre guides to prevent grass from the left drum crossing over and over loading the right. Welder time!

    Sounds good to me. Thanks Deezell


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    Sounds good to me. Thanks Deezell



    I take it that centre plate should be the same height all the way across ?? Ie . The height of the highest piece at the rear of the plate ? This would be extend lowered than the blade itself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    deezell wrote: »
    Go for it. 550e engine is a 140cc engine, buckets of power for a 46cm cut. Stiga still a good brand, plenty of parts available, not that you're likely to have much issues with a push mower once the basics are of good quality. You'll still be pushing it in ten years time.

    Thank you.
    for a garden size 100M2, is it worth spending extra €50 for the self propelled version with the same specs? or the push mower is fine for a small garden?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    bbari wrote: »
    Thank you.
    for a garden size 100M2, is it worth spending extra €50 for the self propelled version with the same specs? or the push mower is fine for a small garden?

    For an extra €50 it's a steal. The additional parts cost more than €100 as spares


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    deezell wrote: »
    For an extra €50 it's a steal. The additional parts cost more than €100 as spares

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Apologies for all the stupid questions, its my 1st lawnmower/garden hence didn't know what to buy.

    Placing the order now.

    https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/stiga-combi-48-self-propelled-petrol-lawn-mower-bs-550e-engine-mulching-system-p-10218.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    bbari wrote: »
    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Apologies for all the stupid questions, its my 1st lawnmower/garden hence didn't know what to buy.

    Placing the order now.

    https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/stiga-combi-48-self-propelled-petrol-lawn-mower-bs-550e-engine-mulching-system-p-10218.html
    Best of luck. Our Stiga 53cm combi is 20 years old.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,807 ✭✭✭skerry


    Hi folks, finally hoping to get a lawnmower for the new house this week. House is on 0.5 acre site but only around 1/3 of it is lawn. Still more than I'm used to but I don't think it justifies a ride on.

    Was looking at the Husqavarna LC 353V which is self propelled, dual speed and 53cm cutting width. Can get it for around 540 euro. Mulch kit is a few bob extra but not sure I need this yet.

    Anyone have any opinions on this mower, I can't find much in the way of review online.

    https://www.husqvarna.com/ie/products/lawn-mowers/lc-353v/967069401/


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    deezell wrote: »
    Best of luck. Our Stiga 53cm combi is 20 years old.
    Wow - what is the secret of its long life!? Are you suppose to paint the underneath before the 1st use ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    bbari wrote: »
    Wow - what is the secret of its long life!? Are you suppose to paint the underneath before the 1st use ?
    In fairness it's an alloy deck model, so no worries with rust. I bought it 3 years old in 2001. It was a top end machine,`could have been £5-600+ new (pre euro), Paid £220, it was barely run in. I've worn out all the wheels in that time, 4 or 5 Vee belts, the Variable speed drive transaxle, (Wrong belt overheated it, €ouch to replace), a blade, Height lever mechanism and maybe three cables.
    Engine is as sweet as it when i got it. Fresh oil every year,then keep it topped up. Flush out the crankcase every 3-4 years with a solvent. At the end of the season always drain petrol and run out the last drop in the carb . Wire brush the deck underside, and a little drop of oil on moving metal parts. I know the newer Stigas are a little more economically manufactured these days, (what isn't?), But it's still a well regarded brand with plenty of support, good commonality of parts too with Castelgarden and Alpina among others.
    Clean after wet grass cutting is the most important tip. Nothing rots steel like fermenting wet grass. A drop of rust primer paint on the underside at end of season. I actually did paint a tractor mower replacement deck with rust paint prior to first use, original deck was 10 year old was full of holes. It done a brilliant job. Ten years later and not a spot of rust on it when I sold it on last year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,807 ✭✭✭skerry


    skerry wrote: »
    Hi folks, finally hoping to get a lawnmower for the new house this week. House is on 0.5 acre site but only around 1/3 of it is lawn. Still more than I'm used to but I don't think it justifies a ride on.

    Was looking at the Husqavarna LC 353V which is self propelled, dual speed and 53cm cutting width. Can get it for around 540 euro. Mulch kit is a few bob extra but not sure I need this yet.

    Anyone have any opinions on this mower, I can't find much in the way of review online.

    https://www.husqvarna.com/ie/products/lawn-mowers/lc-353v/967069401/

    Hoping to pick this up over the weekend folks. Just wondering if any Husky owners are out there to give opinion? Or even if anyone that can point out benefits/ drawbacks of composite body vs metal. Engine is Briggs and Stratton which I understand are good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    skerry wrote: »
    Hoping to pick this up over the weekend folks. Just wondering if any Husky owners are out there to give opinion? Or even if anyone that can point out benefits/ drawbacks of composite body vs metal. Engine is Briggs and Stratton which I understand are good.

    There's a post a good few months back re. this, owner was very happy with the lightness of the deck. Problem with wide cut heavy metal deck mowers is when you have to manually manoeuvre them, around awkward corners, beds, trees etc. Power drive is not much use and it can be quite an effort, especially as it's SWMBO who does all the hand mowing at ours. I just sit up on the tractor and give orders.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,807 ✭✭✭skerry


    deezell wrote: »
    There's a post a good few months back re. this, owner was very happy with the lightness of the deck. Problem with wide cut heavy metal deck mowers is when you have to manually manoeuvre them, around awkward corners, beds, trees etc. Power drive is not much use and it can be quite an effort, especially as it's SWMBO who does all the hand mowing at ours. I just sit up on the tractor and give orders.

    Proper order :D

    Husky are a good brand as far as I understand so will probably take the plunge on this one. Was looking at Honda Izzys but their outside my budget. Don't think I could justify a ride-on either.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    skerry wrote: »
    Proper order :D

    Husky are a good brand as far as I understand so will probably take the plunge on this one. Was looking at Honda Izzys but their outside my budget. Don't think I could justify a ride-on either.

    Have you looked at Izy prices from the UK ?

    http://www.esaleslocal.com/honda-hrg536sde.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,807 ✭✭✭skerry


    Discodog wrote: »
    Have you looked at Izy prices from the UK ?

    http://www.esaleslocal.com/honda-hrg536sde.html

    Interesting but might be pushing the budget a bit. Are the Izzy considered a better mower that the Husqvarna ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 786 ✭✭✭aw


    Looking for quick opinions.

    Budget of about €300 - €350 to spend on a mower this year.
    Would like it to be more but lots of other jobs to be done around the house.
    At that price point, would I be better advised to buy a good, used premium mower?

    Specifically, I have seen a very good, well maintained Rover, 5 years old for around €350 for sale from a local dealer coming with a short warranty. Obviously to buy it new would be up on €900.
    I have a 25 year old Rover which has been a fantastic workhorse and I would stay with the same brand in a heartbeat. I have my machines serviced regularly.
    Or I could spend maybe another hundred and buy a new Gardencare or Mountfield with a long warranty.

    I'm leaning towards the used machine and would like to get a couple of opinions.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,732 ✭✭✭deezell


    skerry wrote: »
    Interesting but might be pushing the budget a bit. Are the Izzy considered a better mower that the Husqvarna ?

    If I recall the Izzy were introduced by Honda to try and regain a bit of the middle market, so expensive were their main offerings. At those prices it's hardly budget, though it does have a budget look and spec, Honda engine apart. That husky has variable speed drive, so it's lot more for the less money spec wise.


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