The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

Daz_

Rows Grower wrote: »

Dry grass will cut a lot easier than wet or damp grass.

Yeah pretty much same conditions for cutting. Don’t use it when wet

deezell

Daz_ wrote: »

Hi guys. I got a brand new ride on lawnmower a few months ago. It’s seems to me that the power / speed it cuts at had reduced over the past few weeks . Is this possible or am I just imagining it ? Can something affect the HP in this manner ? Any opinion welcome ! Thanks

Check if the throttle cable retaining clamp has come loose at the engine end. If the outer cable slips in the clamp you will lose full throttle. Its a new mower so usually small nuts need retightening after a bit of use, just like a brake cable on a new bike.

Daz_

deezell wrote: »

Check if the throttle cable retaining clamp has come loose at the engine end. If the outer cable slips in the clamp you will lose full throttle. Its a new mower so usually small nuts need retightening after a bit of use, just like a brake cable on a new bike.

Thanks Deezell. Guess i should be able to trace this cable ? Would this be located on the actual engine ? Sorry not very mechanical !

Daz_

Daz_ wrote: »

Thanks Deezell. Guess i should be able to trace this cable ? Would this be located on the actual engine ? Sorry not very mechanical !

Edit - located this - all looks pretty tight

deezell

Daz_ wrote: »

Edit - located this - all looks pretty tight

Loosen clamp and with full throttle see if there is more to be got by pushing outer forward. Otherwise it could be a bit of dirt in carb limiting petrol flow. I know the feeling, you just know the engine is turning slower thsn previous, and if its happening under no load then it's most likely something preventing full throttle. If its running at the right speed under no load but fading badly when cutting I'd suspect fuel starvation.

my3cents

Daz_ wrote: »

Edit - located this - all looks pretty tight

I was out this afternoon with my old Honda ride on after putting a brand new deck, bearing, belt and set of blades on it. Really noticed it was having a problem bagging. I suspect it was just that the longish grass was just too damp. Hope so as I don't want to have to be bothered making any blade modifications.

Daz_

deezell wrote: »

Loosen clamp and with full throttle see if there is more to be got by pushing outer forward. Otherwise it could be a bit of dirt in carb limiting petrol flow. I know the feeling, you just know the engine is turning slower thsn previous, and if its happening under no load then it's most likely something preventing full throttle. If its running at the right speed under no load but fading badly when cutting I'd suspect fuel starvation.

Yeah I’m convinced it’s running slower ! Will check as advised , much appreciated

Daz_

Daz_ wrote: »

Yeah I’m convinced it’s running slower ! Will check as advised , much appreciated

Just to add, engine is getting really hot while cutting , would this suggest extra strain ?

deezell

Daz_ wrote: »

Just to add, engine is getting really hot while cutting , would this suggest extra strain ?

It would, but you'd surely notice that from the tone of the engine, though as its new perhaps you've not experienced it labouring before. Check your oil level. Clear out any grass or leaves from under the hood. Have a look under the deck, it might be gummed up with packed damp clippings, blade struggling to turn. Scrape it clean if clogged. Try cutting a bit higher, grass is heavy and damp at the moment. You'd generally know if you were pushing it hard. Not worth it, go slower, cut higher, and cut again sooner, it wont be long before growth slows down

limnam

Is there anything specific to look at if buying a ride on when cutting slopes?


20-30 degree slopes, does it have much impact on things like gear boxes etc


Is there specific ones that would suit and work slopes better?

deezell

limnam wrote: »

Is there anything specific to look at if buying a ride on when cutting slopes?


20-30 degree slopes, does it have much impact on things like gear boxes etc


Is there specific ones that would suit and work slopes better?

Read this.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/aboutus/meetings/iacs/aiac/apg/280710/3-3-1-managing-slopes-and-banks.pdf

Anything over 15° is risky to mow along the slope. You can mow up and down the slope, but you'll need extra power going up and a mower with a heavy duty box.

fryup

think my castlegarden ride on (15yr old) is leaking oil, keep having to top it up before every use...where is the most common part/area to leak oil?

would this help ?

my3cents

Rarely if ever seen an oil leak normally as the rings and valves wear they just burn oil. Don't think a sealant is going to help at all.

deezell

fryup wrote: »

think my castlegarden ride on (15yr old) is leaking oil, keep having to top it up before every use...where is the most common part/area to leak oil?

would this help ?

Is there a lot of oil dripping down under the engine? If you're topping up reularly all that oil has to go somewhere, and burning is the most likely. As the engine wears oil slips past the piston rings and valve seals, and gets burned with the petrol, causing the odd puff of smoke and a noticeable smell if its worn enough.If the oil is just leaking out, say past a gasket, or through the main bearing where the shaft comes out, things will be messy in that area. Its not uncommon for oil to sweat out through ageing gaskets, a worn main bearing and oil seal would be worse. The stuff you linked won't do any harm in this case, might even work.

New Home

limnam wrote: »

Is there anything specific to look at if buying a ride on when cutting slopes?

20-30 degree slopes, does it have much impact on things like gear boxes etc

Is there specific ones that would suit and work slopes better?

I'll admit I don't know the first thing about lawnmowers, but I spotted this and I remembered your question. I'm not sure how much it'd set you back, though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOMA-6y-EiE

limnam

New Home wrote: »

I'll admit I don't know the first thing about lawnmowers, but I spotted this and I remembered your question. I'm not sure how much it'd set you back, though.

Thanks I actually came across it too


I never priced it but I imagine its going to be out of budget

Audioslaven

Hi,

I have a John Deere LR135 similar too Castlegarden. The drive belt needs replacing. Anyone changed one of these before or is there an easy route to doing this.

I think I need to drop the deck but any info would be appreciated

deezell

Audioslaven wrote: »

Hi,

I have a John Deere LR135 similar too Castlegarden. The drive belt needs replacing. Anyone changed one of these before or is there an easy route to doing this.

I think I need to drop the deck but any info would be appreciated

This diagram might help.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/82680/referrer/navigation/pgId/461142

You'll need to drop mower deck belt to change drive belt, ( top pulley on engine shaft). You might need to drop the engine pulley down to get the drive belt on if there are chassis mounted belt retainers, ( like Castelgarden), metal pins either side of the upper pulley designed to prevent the belt jumping off. Dropping this pulley can be difficult if it hasn't been off for years and if its stuck on even after you remove the shaft bolt. With the mowing deck fully on the ground you should be able to thread the new belt around the idler and tensioning pulleys shown in the diagram. Again these may have belt retaining side guards requiring each pulley to be loosened and dropped to get the belt in the v groove. The belt path is shown more or less on the diagram. If the original belt is still in position study its path before removal.

SCOOP 64

Anyone tell me should the position of the slit be the same every time the engine stops, have changed the drive belts many times but this time having problem with new fitted but smoking belts, i have notice the slit stopping in a different position as before.

my3cents

SCOOP 64 wrote: »

Anyone tell me should the position of the slit be the same every time the engine stops, have changed the drive belts many times but this time having problem with new fitted but smoking belts, i have notice the slit stopping in a different position as before.

The belt isn't toothed so the pulley can be in any position relative to the other pulleys. Suspect another problem?

SCOOP 64

my3cents wrote: »

The belt isn't toothed so the pulley can be in any position relative to the other pulleys. Suspect another problem?

So it doesn't matter were the slit ends up when you stop the engine, it use to stop roughly at the same place if i remember but now stops in a different place, put on same size belts which came off runs for a couple of minutes then smoke, even tried a longer belt at front but same thing,smoke from belts.
This mower as 2 drive belts ,one from engine to double pulley in middle of mower and the one from double pulley to large pulley/gearbox under seat.

my3cents

So are you saying you have a engine to gearbox belt and a separate blade belt which is the normal set up?

Where is stops is neither here nor there, if for example you hit something then the blade and at least one of the pulleys will end up in a different position to all the others and any blade stop feature will be a friction device that just grips the belts when you stop the blades. So the blades can stop anywhere.

In my experience a smoking blade belt is one of the following, deck jammed up with grass or debris, slipping belt (too long), poor adjustment of blade clutch (or failing clutch actuator for example if the clutch works on a vacuum) something bent or broken, worn pulley or bearings or damaged blade brake. I've had them all :mad:

If nothing is actually jammed up then the belt is going faster over a pulley than the pulley will move or a drive pulley is moving faster than the belt will move. Possibly the belt is the wrong one and too long so it never actually grips the pulleys correctly?

As a first course of action are all the pulleys moving freely when the belt is removed and is everything still tight with no sideways or up and down play in it? What mower?

SCOOP 64

Seperate belt for blades, 2 belt for drive,never know the make of it, pulleys seem to be ok,not sure to try different size belt, will have to take apart and try again.

Audioslaven

deezell wrote: »

This diagram might help.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/82680/referrer/navigation/pgId/461142

You'll need to drop mower deck belt to change drive belt, ( top pulley on engine shaft). You might need to drop the engine pulley down to get the drive belt on if there are chassis mounted belt retainers, ( like Castelgarden), metal pins either side of the upper pulley designed to prevent the belt jumping off. Dropping this pulley can be difficult if it hasn't been off for years and if its stuck on even after you remove the shaft bolt. With the mowing deck fully on the ground you should be able to thread the new belt around the idler and tensioning pulleys shown in the diagram. Again these may have belt retaining side guards requiring each pulley to be loosened and dropped to get the belt in the v groove. The belt path is shown more or less on the diagram. If the original belt is still in position study its path before removal.

I changed the belts but now it won't start. Its turning over but just not kicking in. There is spark from the plug.

There is two wires to the crankshaft pulley(one black and one orange). I didn't keep note of the order but I have switched them around in case I got them wrong. Any ideas or any switches I may have missed?

how.gareth

Hey folks not sure if this thread is only for ride ons but can anyone help me it with a second hand mower I recently bought, it’s a Gmach mower that starts and runs great but cuts out after 10/15 mins. Sounds like it’s running out of fuel and takes a few mins before it’ll start up again, any thoughts please?

my3cents

how.gareth wrote: »

Hey folks not sure if this thread is only for ride ons but can anyone help me it with a second hand mower I recently bought, it’s a Gmach mower that starts and runs great but cuts out after 10/15 mins. Sounds like it’s running out of fuel and takes a few mins before it’ll start up again, any thoughts please?

You could try replacing the fuel line from the tank along with the fuel filter?

my3cents

SCOOP 64 wrote: »

Seperate belt for blades, 2 belt for drive,never know the make of it, pulleys seem to be ok,not sure to try different size belt, will have to take apart and try again.

afaik its fairly standard generic 40 inch cut castle garden design but can't really say exactly what the problem is from the symptoms.

how.gareth

my3cents wrote: »

You could try replacing the fuel line from the tank along with the fuel filter?

I took the tank off and cleaned it out but hadn’t tried the fuel line, where would the fuel filter be on these engines?

my3cents

how.gareth wrote: »

I took the tank off and cleaned it out but hadn’t tried the fuel line, where would the fuel filter be on these engines?

Depends but normally somewhere between the fuel tank and the carb there is a little inline fuel filter. In my experience if the fuel filter is that bad then the fuel line may also need replacing.

Filters often look something like this



Check also there isn't a partly closed inline fuel valve



rare but some mowers have them makes changing the filter easier.

deezell

Audioslaven wrote: »

I changed the belts but now it won't start. Its turning over but just not kicking in. There is spark from the plug.

There is two wires to the crankshaft pulley(one black and one orange). I didn't keep note of the order but I have switched them around in case I got them wrong. Any ideas or any switches I may have missed?

If you have a spark then your just missing fuel. Did you tip the mower over to get at the belts? The carb might be empty, it'll take a good few spins to draw fuel back into it. Two wires to a pulley? How do you mean? Is there an interlock switch nearby? Most mowers require the parking brake on to start, if the wires to the parking interlock switch have pulled off it won't start, but then you wouldn't have a spark.