Replacing a rediator copper or plastic pipes?

Joey the lips

PeteHeat wrote: »

Spot on ttm

Joey,

I read the description of the rad and the installation method used, I still say PTFE in the right hands.

"and you are a plumber so i would expect that."

You appear to expect / assume a lot

.

Not at all. What i was getting at was something different. But why not improve on the discussions and share your information instead of just challenging. Have you any information that says why boss white and hemp should not be used in domestic situations?

PeteHeat

Hi Joey,

No objection to using boss and hemp in domestic work like OutKast I have used it in some cases the best job although I prefer Fernox to Boss White.

The O.P. has a simple problem of a weap at a radiator tail, simple to fix with the products he appears to have to hand and based on his posts well within his capabilities.

Your Challenge :

"In fact i usually judge a plumber by certain standards and my feellings are Boss white and hemp fit once PTFE worried about making a mistake"

I see more mistakes in DIY with boss and hemp than with PTFE, my advice is based on experience, given freely to be used or rejected as the O.P. or anyone reading sees fit.

BTW good plumbers rarely make such mistakes as they know which method is best based on experience.

.

ttm

If you search the web you'll find the PTFE v Boss White "discussion" crops up time and time again. For amatures (like me) you can't go far wrong with the thicker *one wrap* gas pipe PTFE tape and on the parallel screw threads with no back nut like it works just fine.

If the fit is a bit loose and it may be that the OP just means that because there is no taper (these are parallel threads) he can screw the tail all the way in with no resisitance, a few wraps of std PTFE tape can still be used. If the threads really are loose then the PTFE tape can be used a little like hemp/flax, instead of using the PTFE tape flat you can twist it into a string wrapped tightly into the base of the threads then a second wrap can be made to hold the first in place. In the very worst case a mound of tape can be built up in the middle of the thread with the wrapping either side of this used to hold this "gasket" of PTFE tape in place.

However that doesn't mean that using Boss White is wrong, but OP has PTFE tape and if it was me I'd have put a couple of isolation valves on this rads pipes by now so it would be a two minute job to whip the tail out and have another go. yeah I always go for overkill on the basis of if it went wrong once then I'll be back to it again eventually so might as well make it easy for myself next time

The only issue I can see is that the rad might be quite thin and only have a couple of threads for the tail to grip on in which case you could put masses of PTFE tape on the end of the tail and screw it in so far that the seal gets lost inside the rad. In that case you'd need to mark how far in the tail goes and make sure there was enough PTFE tape on the tails thread where it actually grips on the rad - hope thats makes sence?

PeteHeat

Hi ttm,

Yes it makes lots of sense, Locktite actually brought out a product which looks like string to use in deep threads, very handy for G.B. fittings on boilers etc.

The minor weep experienced by the O.P. could be fixed by the method you suggest and as he has PTFE to hand it should save time and money.

The rad valves should serve as isolating valves for the modification.

Thank you for answering Joey's question re: domestic / commercial installations.

.

ttm

PeteHeat wrote: »

Hi ttm,

Yes it makes lots of sense, Locktite actually brought out a product which looks like string to use in deep threads, very handy for G.B. fittings on boilers etc.

The minor weep experienced by the O.P. could be fixed by the method you suggest and as he has PTFE to hand it should save time and money.

The rad valves should serve as isolating valves for the modification.

Thank you for answering Joey's question re: domestic / commercial installations.

.

There I go, not thinking again :rolleyes: just had it in mind that rad valves were gate valves for flow control and not that reliable at cutting the water off completely.

Joey the lips

PeteHeat wrote: »

Hi Joey,

No objection to using boss and hemp in domestic work like OutKast I have used it in some cases the best job although I prefer Fernox to Boss White.

The O.P. has a simple problem of a weap at a radiator tail, simple to fix with the products he appears to have to hand and based on his posts well within his capabilities.

Your Challenge :

"In fact i usually judge a plumber by certain standards and my feellings are Boss white and hemp fit once PTFE worried about making a mistake"

I see more mistakes in DIY with boss and hemp than with PTFE, my advice is based on experience, given freely to be used or rejected as the O.P. or anyone reading sees fit.

BTW good plumbers rarely make such mistakes as they know which method is best based on experience.

.

There was no challange to you in fact it was quite the opposite, You actually challanged me to find out why boss white is not used.

I was repecting the fact that i assumed you to be a plumber when i asked you to elobrate.