How to spray a wing of a car(Help)

Genuineguy

Hi,

I recently sprayed a front passenger wing of an A4, I was wondering could anyone give me the correct procedure in spraying a base coat followed by a clear coat. ie i can see a slight queiver in the paint finish, It is not that noticeable but all the same is still can be seen :-(.

The wing got a tip in a car park, i Got the denge out and used a bit of filler to correct the panel again. I then applied primer and gave it a light sanding down. and had it preped for the base coat.
I applied the base coat. let it dry over night, rubbed it down with a tack cloth, and then the following morning i laquered the over the base coat.
However the there is a slight quiever in the paint finish.

Should i have given the base baint a light sanding before applied the Clear coat with 800 - 1000 grit. i would be a bit doutful that this would effect the final color finish of the car i.e. make it a bit dull, Any advice.

Also i am going to wait two weeks and machine compound the panel to see does this help in any way,The color is a blue pearl that i applied to the panel.

Can anyone advice me from scratch the correct procedure in spraying a panel, I have sprayed a few panels before, But nearly had it perfect the finish, Like some advice from someone that does this on a day to day basis, Thanks.

Owen

Generally it goes a little something like this ... wet & dry the bare panel to smooth out the finish, and apply a fast drying primer with has added elastomer and filler. Then wet and dry that, give it all a dry with an airgun, wipe any residue away, then give it a light scuffing with some antisil degreaser and a scotchpad, dry that, wipe any residue away, then put your paint on, smoothly and evenly from about 8 inches away - when you've a good layer built up, dust on another layer from about 14 inches away to give a matted effect. Let that dry, and then apply your lacquer, building up from a dusted on coating, to a full glossy shine.

jozi

I found this site recently looking for advice on touching up some rusty patches and looking for spraying advice also http://www.refinishnetwork.com

The above sounds good, specially with a name like that and presumably experience in the field.

Paintdoctor: I had a similar thread recently was wondering if you could comment on my post? http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055623406&highlight=spraying+equipment

Run_to_da_hills

You may have to take a trip over the border and purchase the real paint as the stuff sold down here is utter rubbish, Its water based, runs just like water, very expensive and takes hours to dry and also needs heaps of paint to build up a good body.

It also recommended to use special UV lighting with clean room conditions. If you were to even attempt a DIY job in the open air, by the time you spray your wing and let it dry it would be all covered in dust and flies. :eek:

You will also need the special equipment to spray this stuff, IE al low pressure gravity feed gun like the Devilbis Gti range ( 1 to 9 bar) as the normal high pressure gun like the JGA used with conventional 2K or cellulose based paints won't work.

It is illegal to spray the proper 2K base coat and clear in the republic so it would help if you knew someone up north with a garage space.

Owen

Run_to_da_hills wrote: »

You may have to take a trip over the border and purchase the real paint as the stuff sold down here is utter rubbish, Its water based, runs just like water, very expensive and takes hours to dry and also needs heaps of paint to build up a good body.

Not true. I work with water based paint every day, and you don't need heaps of paint. My paint is usually dry in about 10 minutes too under infrared heat, or about 13/15 mins using a heat gun.

Run_to_da_hills wrote: »

by the time you spray your wing and let it air dry, it would be all covered in flies and dust.

The flies are usually attracted to the sweet smell from the lacquer, not the paint. And when they land, the best thing to do is let them dry in, as only their tiny little legs get embedded. Then you come along with a polisher, and whip the bodies off. Very texas chainsaw massacre, but doesn't leave any defects on the paint. Dust is always an issue with paint, and if you paint outdoors, or in a non-oven/clean room based environment it's going to happen, but you can minimise it, and of course take steps to correct also.

Run_to_da_hills wrote: »

You will also need the special equipment to sprat this stuff, IE al low pressure gravity feed gun like the Devilbis Gti range ( 1 to 9 bar) as the normal high pressure gun like the JGA used with conventional 2K or cellulose based paints won't work.

You don't necessarily need new fancy equipment. I use a HVLP turbine which is out of the budget of most hobby painters, and prretty expensive gravity fed guns with pressure returns, but you can paint with those cheaper ALDI compressors and guns without too much difficulty. The major problem with using a compressor is that they have a tendancy to add moisture to the airlow, which can cause complications.

This hysteria over water based paint is a bit OTT. Sure the older paints were easier to work with, but water based paint isn't exactly the work of the devil.