Restoring weathered hardwood deck and fencing

FrankGrimes

I have a relatively small hardwood deck that went down last year and has weathered quite poorly as it is North facing and in a shaded corner. It looks nothing like it did when it first went down. I took a photo this morning and have attached it but as it was wet it's hard to see how it really looks: basically, it originally looked like the wet parts but you can now see a few patches of the dry bits - that's how it currently looks when dry.

I think I told the gardening company that built it to use teak oil but I think they actually used the normal decking oil I had left out to be used on the fence and I recall them putting on a far too thick first coat and having to sand it down before the second coat.

What would be the best approach for getting this deck back to life? Sand it and then put how many coats of what type of oil onto it? Any tips for how to sand the grooves or should I just blast it with the power hose first?

Likewise, the wooden fencing doesn't look as well as it did last year though it did have one or two coats of Ronseal decking oil. Should I sand it and then re-oil or just re-oil straight away? Any tips on the best type of oil to use (the natural colour of the wood was lovely so natural colour preferrably)?

Any benefit in buying products like Ronseal Decking Cleaner or are they just gimmicks?

Thanks!

Joey the lips

I have the exact same problem but i used the normal wood. I also covered it in oil. It does not look the best so i would appreciate in shareing in the responses.

k123456

Regarding the deck the oil should not peel blister etc. As this looks like it could peel further, I would remove it ;
pressure cleaner, deck scrub brush and perhaps a deck stripper (mulveys ranelagh).

Once u are back to bare wood, wait for it be dry

The "oil" that was applied was possibly not good quality , the wood was not fully dry, or the wood had no time to weather, fresh hard wood has a natural oil in it, they takes 4- 6 weeks to dry out, deck oil on fresh hardwood may not take.

I'm in the deck business and definetly would not apply an oil to a newly laid deck, would oil some weeks later.

Apply using a standard short brush not one on a long handle, u need to work the oil in, use 1-2 thin coats

FrankGrimes

Thanks for the tips.

The oil was applied on the day it was laid so that's probably part of the problem as you point out.

I'll powerwash it and brush it down as you say. What is the deck stripper you mention - is it a fluid or a scraper? Looking at the deck I reckon sanding would help prep it for re-applying oil, though that won't get into the grooves it'll still help I reckon. Any reason not to sand it?

What would you generally regard as 'good' quality oil? Standard Decking Oil or Teak Oil?

k123456

Sand paper wont get in the deck grooves, a wire brush may help, pressure washer etc. Havent used it but Mulveys ranelagh do a chemical deck stripper which brings u back to bare wood. Osmo do a Bankari oil.

Important to put on thin coats, so u can see grain thru oil.

k123456

PS wouldnt use teak oil, only designed for furniture, would not take foot traffic

D.Craftsman

Hi Frank, It seems as you have all the right advice from K123456.I would also suggest you proceed with caution.If you strip the deck back you will be exposing the raw wood again.It is always difficult to know just what a new coat of finish will look like.A lot has to do with how well it is cleaned off.Some areas may get better attention than othes etc.The big problem is between the grooves.Generally it is the flat surface that gets cleaned off as this is the main problem area.If the finish on the deck is not standing up to water then a power washer may add to your problem as it will take too long to dry out.I would prefer to sand it down but I have not used the chemical stripper.I don't know any one who has.I always try to speak with someone who has used a product before I try it.The sales guy may have been well briefed but never actually even seen it being used.They would usually be happy to give you the name of someone they have sold it to.At the end of the day it will be you has to look at the result.The wood probably came with a coat on it originally.Try to find out what type of hard wood the deck is too.Use any off cuts to test colour etc.I'm a little surprised at the reaction of people to the way a deck changes colour.They are supposed to.Wood is a natural, living material.It moves and breathes.You will not be able to prevent colour change, it will always need attention.I spoke with a deck supplier in Holland who was amazed at the type of deck being sold here.Different woods are suitable for different conditions.Some types of hardwoods being solg here would never be bought in the same climate in the U.S for example.It is typical of garden centre handymen to get the finish wrong.The real key, for me is to spend a little more for a better quality finish, the Osmo range K123 suggests is a long life specialist product but can be expensive.I would use it.Bring your pics into the supplier, Noyeks Ballymount are good, and ask for advice.
Good Luck