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!![HELP]!! m4 problem
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14-08-2009 10:50pm#1
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This is a great site
http://www.greenbatteries.com/batterycalc.html
You should be charging it for 3.2 hours it says 0 -
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The standard battery's are really only a something they throw in to get you going being cheapo chinese and all,. if you plan on getting any skirmishing out if it you'll need a good quality battery that will last a lot longer. try brands like Firefox, Sanyo or Intelect.
Also, 5 hours is the correct charging time for a new battery. 0 -
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swiftblade wrote: »Well 5 hours sounds a bit to much. I would say you overcharged it. A new attery is the best idea. Get a standered charger and a firefox battery and you would be all set for a skirmishIIIAcHmEdIII wrote: »well the batterys have 1200 mah and the charger is 450maIIIAcHmEdIII wrote: »oh so i over charged it then great . i just checked the voltage on the battery its 9.11 volts on dc
Ok, there's a lot of confusion floating around here about batteries it seems.
The packs that come with clones are always a bit hit and miss. Sometimes you'll get one that works fine for years, other times you'll get one with a dry solder joint and it just won't work right. A branded pack is always recommended.
When charging, the charge rate is dependant on the battery chemistry. Ni-Cd packs must be trickle charged, that being charged using a low current. Ni-MH packs, by contrast, must be rapid charged, that being using a high current.
A rule of thumb to work out what the high current threshold for packs like these would be anything more than half of the capacity rating of the pack. So if your pack states it has a 1200mAh capacity, charging with 600mA+ would be a fast charge, high current rate. Anything below 599mA, would be a slow charge, low current rate.
Remember, Ni-MH are FAST, and Ni-Cd are SLOW. Do not get these mixed up or you'll risk damaging the pack permanently.
When charging, to work out the charge time you simply divide your chargers output current into your battery pack's capacity.
The output current of your charger will be written on it, often with O/P or Output in front of it and is given as a number and the mA symbol, such as 500mA. High current ones may also be written simply as 1A or 1.2A etc.
The battery capacity will be written on the pack, and likely on each cell within the pack. It will be written in a similar fashion to the charger, but will be marked as mAh as it is a drain rate.
Battery Capacity / Charge Current = Charge time (in hours)
Example:
1500mAh / 500mA = 3 hours
In the OP's case:
1200mAh / 450mA = 2.667 = 2h 40m
While saying 2h 40m is the charge, the first charge is generally exempt from this rule as the battery is usually completely drained and in an unhealthy state so it needs a kick start to get it going again. I generally recommend deep cycling new packs (fully charging, then draining completely) at least two or three times, especially with Ni-Cd packs (though never with Li-Po packs).
The voltage of a "dead" pack isn't zero, nor will a charged pack read as 8.4v, 9.6v etc. The voltage will depend on the packs nominal voltage (the 8.4V, 9.6V, etc which is stamped on the pack). Taking the OP's pack as an example again, the 8.4v pack should be reading around 9.2V on a full charge and around 7.6V when depleted. If your pack ever reads zero, you have a short, most likely, a leakage situation. If it ever reads less than 6.5V you have a destroyed battery pack.
Ni-Cd's cannot be overcharged, once they're being trickle charged (1/4 current of the battery capacity or lower). They'll survive plenty of charges with an hour extra here or there on a slow charger but they can be overcharged very easily if you're using a fast charger.
Ni-MH's cannot be slow charged and can heat up during fast charging if not done properly (never exceed the batteries own capacity as a charge current unless you know what you're doing. IE, if the battery is 1500mAh, never use a charger above 1.5A). Hot Ni-MH batteries can destroy themselves if overcharged on a high current through something called thermal runaway, so always supervise batteries on fast chargers and only use ones with auto cut-off systems.
To the OP.
The situation you're describing sounds very much like the anti-reversal latch has locked into position. This is usually because the battery pack hasn't got enough juice to over-power the spring and has therefore gotten stuck half way through a cycle. The anti-reversal latch is there to prevent the spring from overpowering the piston and burning your motor out. That "clunk" noise you hear when you're pulling the trigger is the motor trying to overpower the spring and then settling back against the latch when you let go.
As I said, it's generally the battery pack that causes this. If you can, try another pack in it and see if you get any better luck with that.
To disengage the latch, simply use a fresh pack and fire a burst on full auto, then fire in semi once more to reset the piston to the "rest" position.
Alternatively, open the pistol grip base plate, disconnect and remove the motor and use a long shafted, flat head screw driver to move the exposed bevel gear one full rotation. Then reassemble the motor (be careful with the polarity) back into the grip.
If that doesn't work (or you find moving the gear is awkward or too difficult) strip the top receiver off the rifle and, using a long, narrow shafted screw driver, awl, seal pick or similar tool, push it into the air nozzle until you feel contact with the piston head. Once contact is made, push the piston completely to the rear of the gearbox, then slowly bring it forward again until it's at rest against the front of the gearbox and you no longer feel any pressure against the tool you're using. Retract the tool carefully and reassemble the rifle.0 -
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