Damper on Hunter 14 stove?

spc123

Hi Just wondering if anyone has a multifuel hunter 14 stove with a damper fitted? I bought one around 2 years ago and got a damper with the stove but did not fit it at the time. According to the instructions you can't fit the damper when burning solid mineral fuels.

We have a draught problem in that we get too much pull on the chimney. Any other ideas....
Thks

Carlow52

from here
http://www.hunterstoves.co.uk/Assets/Old_Instructions/DD%20Herald%2014%20CE%20Instructions%20V.01.08.pdf

it looks as u say that with timber u can use the damper but not with other fuels.

tricky one due to risks involved

spc123

Thanks for response.... can't understand why... what risks are you talking about?

Carlow52

reduced air flow can lead to incomplete combustion, Carbon Monoxide CO as opposed to Carbon Dioxide CO2.

This is because the higher the calorific value of the fuel, the more air you need

In simple terms air is c 21% oxygen and coal is say 90% carbon [C]

Combustion is just an exothermic chemical reaction where the O2 blends with the C so the more C u have the more O2 u need

The carbon wants to burn so it will 'grab' the oxygen and if it ends up as CO [because there is a shortage of O2,] rather than CO2 it is 'happy' [ Half laid as opposed to fully laid:D ]

This is why CO is such a dangerous gas: as it looks like O to the red corpuscles in the blood and so real O gets shut out. The body cant break the O off in the CO

River King

spc123,

I have a hunter herald 14 with wrap around boiler just installed in my new house and have exactly the same problem as you i think.

There is an awful whistling noise in the chimney and stove if there is any wind outside at all, and when i light a fire and fill the box up, it is totally burned away in 2.5 to 3 hours, even with all the air controls closed ( I dont have a flue damper fitted ). It also doesnt heat the room too well ( 4.6m x 4.1m), so i presume a lot of the heat is escaping up the chimney.

Did you fit the damper, and did it solve solve the problem?

Cheers

paulmallon

i have just fitted a mulberry beckett with boiler and i fitted a damper to the flue. i close the flue off a bit on a windy night using the damper and it seems to cut the draught. i don't use coal though.
My advice would be to fit the damper anyway and id you dont need it keep it open. Position it as high as is practically possible so the heat wont affect it.
I bought mine on ebay for 14 pounds.

Joe94

paulmallon wrote: »

i have just fitted a mulberry beckett with boiler and i fitted a damper to the flue. i close the flue off a bit on a windy night using the damper and it seems to cut the draught. i don't use coal though.
My advice would be to fit the damper anyway and id you dont need it keep it open. Position it as high as is practically possible so the heat wont affect it.
I bought mine on ebay for 14 pounds.

Hi,

I am thinking of installing a Mulberry Beckett stove and am wondering how often it would need refuelling when burning 2-3 average sized seasoned hardwood logs at a time and heating 3-4 rads comfortably. Any information on it would be appreciated.

Regards,
Joe94.

Carlow52

Joe94 wrote: »

Hi,

I am thinking of installing a Mulberry Beckett stove and am wondering how often it would need refuelling when burning 2-3 average sized seasoned hardwood logs at a time and heating 3-4 rads comfortably. Any information on it would be appreciated.

Regards,
Joe94.

the spec should tell u what the stove output is based on in terms of refuelling, else look at their website.

then u need to know what the rads require, again can be got on the web if u measure them up.

If u cant get the refuelling spec then it can be estimated from first principles,
google for energy output of seasoned hardwood: will be in Joules/kg or similar. weigh a few of the logs.
make an assumption about the efficiency of the stove: say 60% so for every 100 joules in you get 60 out and away you go.

Joe94

Carlow52 wrote: »

the spec should tell u what the stove output is based on in terms of refuelling, else look at their website.

then u need to know what the rads require, again can be got on the web if u measure them up.

If u cant get the refuelling spec then it can be estimated from first principles,
google for energy output of seasoned hardwood: will be in Joules/kg or similar. weigh a few of the logs.
make an assumption about the efficiency of the stove: say 60% so for every 100 joules in you get 60 out and away you go.

Hi Carlow52,

Thanks very much for the very prompt reply and advice.

Regards,
Joe94.

Carlow52

paulmallon wrote: »

i have just fitted a mulberry beckett with boiler and i fitted a damper to the flue. i close the flue off a bit on a windy night using the damper and it seems to cut the draught. i don't use coal though.
My advice would be to fit the damper anyway and id you dont need it keep it open. Position it as high as is practically possible so the heat wont affect it.
I bought mine on ebay for 14 pounds.

:mad:
This is a very dangerous way to use the damper. Control the draught by limiting the air supply and not by restricting the flue.
:mad:
I am surprised that the comment is let stand here and has not been moderated

gomamochi1

Carlow52 wrote: »

:mad:
This is a very dangerous way to use the damper. Control the draught by limiting the air supply and not by restricting the flue.
:mad:
I am surprised that the comment is let stand here and has not been moderated

Interesting I just spoke to -snip- that I am having trouble with over firing and he recommended the above- fit a damper and leave all the controls below open.. .

BryanF

gomamochi1 wrote: »

Interesting I just spoke to -snip- that I am having trouble with over firing and he recommended the above- fit a damper and leave all the controls below open.. .

Please don’t grave dig threads and/or name companies, thanks