dart Board - damage to plaster , how to fix?

smarten31

I have just found out that tenants had put up a dart board in the house. There was no protection for the walls put up. As a result the walls have hundreds of darts holes in the plaster and looks terrible. Can someone advise what I should use to fix this?

Also the semi solid wooden floor underneath is a mess , Can I replace the floor were the damage is done or will all have to be replaced? the wooden floor was laid approx 4 years ago so presume there would be a change in colour due to wear and tear etc..

I will try and post a pic tomorrow to highlight the damage

I added photo of damage below



thanks

Joey the lips

lol i was just thinking of getting a dart board and this is what put me off

The walls(once the picture confirms) should not be to bad, painters mate and a coat of paint should hide them fine. The floor is fooked. if the beads are going the right way its near a corner and its not glued you might be able to replace a bit but i doubt it. As its semi solid you will have to sand it.

sky6

If it is dry lined then just replace the plaster slab and tape the joint. If it is Hard wall plaster then you could hack out and re skim.
The Floor is a little Harder to fix. If it is Glued you can cut out with a Skill Saw being careful replace the damage boards re glue and Sand over again to achieve an even colour match.
An easier thing to try is sand the whole Floor and try something like Brummer or wood filler to fill the Holes then sand seal again. Either way you are looking at least a full days work.

Wertz

Walls: Polyfilla (NOT painter's mate). Wide blade/filling knife. Sand off excess. Repaint. The end. No need for re-skim, no need to re-slab and tape.

Your floors may be salvagable with the use of some proper wood filler/stopping that matches the type of wood, same method as above, fill all the holes with a wet filling knife, leaving them slightly proud, then sand off the excess...however getting a lacquer to match the factory finish on the planks could prove difficult and you may end up having to re-coat the entire floor for the sake of a uniform sheen.

Joey the lips

Wertz wrote: »

Walls: Polyfilla (NOT painter's mate). Wide blade/filling knife. Sand off excess. Repaint. The end. No need for re-skim, no need to re-slab and tape.

Your floors may be salvagable with the use of some proper wood filler/stopping that matches the type of wood, same method as above, fill all the holes with a wet filling knife, leaving them slightly proud, then sand off the excess...however getting a lacquer to match the factory finish on the planks could prove difficult and you may end up having to re-coat the entire floor for the sake of a uniform sheen.

Why not painters mate? Have used it for years. Its acrylic solid and will hold a screw. I would appreciate your experience?

Wertz

I'm going to assume by painter's mate you mean caulk/acrylic sealant.
You can't sand it to a smooth finish, so it'll stick out like a sore thumb on a plastered wall.

I too use caulk and a wet knife for certain filling jobs (great for exterior hairline cracks) but for the likes of multiple pinholes like this, it'd be messy in the extreme, particularly for a DIYer.

Joey the lips

Wertz wrote: »

I'm going to assume by painter's mate you mean caulk/acrylic sealant.
You can't sand it to a smooth finish, so it'll stick out like a sore thumb on a plastered wall.

I too use caulk and a wet knife for certain filling jobs (great for exterior hairline cracks) but for the likes of multiple pinholes like this, it'd be messy in the extreme, particularly for a DIYer.

Never noticed that. Thanks for the experience though. I usually use it cause its premixed. I will stick with the filler.

Wertz

The stuff you're on about is the tube requiring a mastic gun, right?



Because there are pre-mixed fillers that are sandable (and some that aren't, ) that save on the mess and dust of mixing it yourself. Some of these contain small amounts of acrylic to help them cure quicker and aren't as sandable as the real thing.




I prefer this myself

Joey the lips

http://geocel.co.uk/prodtype.aspx?t=plumbing

Yeah this is painters mate. Acrylic filler!

Wertz

Ah well...at least you're not using feckin' silicone...hate plumbers and kitchen fitters doing that on unpainted surfaces, where worktops or baths meet new walls and the like.
I've yet to find a paint that will stay stuck to smeared silicone sealant. Nightmare.

Lex Luthor

polyfilla is muck compared to Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler. Its expensive but 10 times better. Can also be used on plasterboard.

For the poster thinking of putting up a dartboard. I got a piece of old carpet. Lay it on the ground. Put the dartboard on it and marked the outer circle of the board on the carpet. Cut out the hole. Then cut another circle approx 18-20" bigger circumference and stuck to the wall. The carpet does a good job catching stray darts. Sooner or later you'll be hitting the board all the time

Wertz

I use the ronseal stuff on timber or for exterior holes alright, but it's overkill on interior plasterwork IMO and again it's harder to sand smooth than powder

I've tried a lot of plaster/powder filler over the years and polyfilla is the best for walls. Some of the ready mixed jointing compounds are good too but take ages to dry.

smarten31

Hi Guys

Just added the photo to the original post .. based on this what would you recommend?

I am a DIY novice so any help is greatly appreciated :-)

Wertz

As above.

You haven't added a picture of the semi-solid so can't comment on that but my orginal advice still stands...

smarten31

Thanks mate - I'll get that Polyfilla today - much appreciated

Wertz

Polyfilla obviously isn't going to work on the floor though...for that either the ronseal stuff Lex Luthor mentions or Brummer wood stopping in the matching wood tone is what you're after. Get yourself a decent quality filling knife too.