Seized Bolt

antodeco

Hi folks,
One of my engine mounts is gone which I want to replace. Unfortunatley, the bolt is completed seized on it. I have let WD40 on it for a good while and given it a few light taps with the hammer, but to no avail. Its in an awkward enough spot to give it a good walloping, so Im wondering does anyone have any ideas?

I was thinking chisel/screwdriver and it and bang down on that?

Owen

You could try a shock spray, they rapidly cool the bolt which should free it from it's bond. Most motor factors will have that.

Beta Ray Bill

Ya need to get your hands on some snap-on bolt/stud removers

they are expensive but thet will do the job

antodeco

Hmm, I might go for the shock spray. Any ideas on cost? Will I need to protect all the bits around it, or will it be ok?


I have a full torque wrench kit and no matter what I do with it, it wont budge. Im more afraid of snapping it in half as it is rusty, and be in a lot worse scenario then now!

Run_to_da_hills

If you have access to an arc plant you can purchase 29/9 low hydrogen welding rods, expensive but can be sold separately in some factors. Build up the head / stud on the bolt and use a vice grips to remove the stud. The heat built up with the welding will help unseize it. This trick has never failed with me.

Max Headroom

Which bolt is it.?..most cars have bolts to engine and chassis and some mounts are in two parts....you may not need to un-do the actual bolt at all.....any pix or what car is it..?

antodeco

Max Headroom wrote: »

Which bolt is it.?..most cars have bolts to engine and chassis and some mounts are in two parts....you may not need to un-do the actual bolt at all.....any pix or what car is it..?

Its an '89 mini mayfair. I can actually rock the engine back and forth (jumps when I push the accelerator) and I can see that its the bolt to the very left of the engine bolt. Ill have a double check later on and see what way the bolt sits. Could be another piece behind it.

BlackWizard

Run_to_da_hills wrote: »

If you have access to an arc plant you can purchase 29/9 low hydrogen welding rods, expensive but can be sold separately in some factors. Build up the head / stud on the bolt and use a vice grips to remove the stud. The heat built up with the welding will help unseize it. This trick has never failed with me.

That's what I would recommend to. But just be careful of any wires/rubber etc

I wish I could of used the welder to help remove a bolt from my cars suspension a few weeks ago. We spent two days hammering, sawing and drilling through it.

biomech

best bet is to heat the hell out of it, get your spanner in one hand and a hammer in the other and some firm taps from the hammer as your trying to open it.. works for me every time.... the key to all this is the heat... getting someone on fireman duty is also handy...

antodeco

I got it very hot! I had the wrench on it and lightly hit it with the hammer, and it heated up, but to no avail. Whats more awkward are the other piece around it (tubing, braces, etc) so I cant get a good turning circle on it.

Mr.Diagnostic

Is it the engine steady bar on the top of the engine or one of the bottom mounts. Bottom mounts use nuts and bolts onto the subframe.

Run_to_da_hills

BlackWizard wrote: »

That's what I would recommend to. But just be careful of any wires/rubber etc

I wish I could of used the welder to help remove a bolt from my cars suspension a few weeks ago. We spent two days hammering, sawing and drilling through it.

I once removed a broken exhaust manifold stud this way from a Harley, no need ro remove head, eazyouts are a lod of bol*ix, Only recommendations is to disconnect the battery and have a fire extinguisher handy.

Evo

did you try an impact socket and hammer that instead of hammering it directly.

antodeco

Mr.Diagnostic wrote: »

Is it the engine steady bar on the top of the engine or one of the bottom mounts. Bottom mounts use nuts and bolts onto the subframe.

Its the one at the side. Ill get a picture of it up in the next few minutes!