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Bleeding Radiator

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  • 04-09-2009 8:07am
    #1
    trad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭


    I have a 2 foot double panel radiator in my kitchen, first rad on the circuit.
    The head of the bleed nipple on the outer panel has sheared off. As Murphy's law would have it, this panel is now full of air, no heat.

    Short of replacing the radiator, anyone any ideas? Anyone still selling imperial sized radiators?


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    #2
    ART6
    Registered Users Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    You should be able to unscrew and renew the complete bleed screw fitting if it's a pressed steel radiator. Plumbers providers should have them. Might even find DIY stores that do.


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    #3
    trad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    It's an older (30year old) rad. Nipple won't come out thats the problem.


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    #4
    paudie2005
    Registered Users Posts: 103 ✭✭paudie2005


    Any point in taking the radiator off the wall,drilling through the remainder of the old nipple (obviously minding the threads),then getting the new nipple on to the threads and screwing it in while driving the existing nipple into the radiator.You'd be able to get remainder of the existing nipple out the connection to the water pipe. Just an idea


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    #5
    trad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    Can't get at the nipple because the back panel is the way. I didn't know you could get screw in nipples, will give my local plumbers merchant a ring.


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    #6
    youtheman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,285 ✭✭✭youtheman


    I had the same problem and I had to take the radiator off the wall (closing the inlet and outlet valves and draining the water into a pan). I then took the complete radiator to a local welding shop and he 'brazed' a piece onto the bleed screw that allowed me to unscrew it.

    Modern radiators have the bleed screw inserted into a separate 'bush'. If you cannot get at the bleed screw then you use a spanner to unscrew the bush (which has the bleed screw inserted) and replace the lot.


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    #7
    Outkast_IRE
    Registered Users Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    The last resort option is a small drill bit a self tapping screw and ptfe , i have seen this done plenty of times.
    Turn off both radiator valves.
    1. pick spot on top of radiator and start it with a small drill bit .
    2. have the higher threads on self tapping screw wrapped in ptfe.
    3. finish the hole with the self tapper and use it as your need place to bleed.


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    #8
    trad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    Worth a try, will wait 'till monday. Wife doesn't like me messing up her kitchen when she's around.
    Thanks for all the advice.


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    #9
    JamesM
    Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Sounds like a "Veha" rad - the vent is built in. Most rads , even old, have the vent screw in a seperate fitting that can be replaced. You can try any of the above - the self tapping screw will leak , if you keep trying to bleed it.
    You can try to lift the rad off the brackets, loosen the nuts on either side, then swing the rad forward and down, tighten the nut on one side to avoid a leak, loosen the nut on the other side, catch any water in a container. With the top of the rad lower than the bottom, the air should bubble out at the loosened nut. Raise the rad back up with the nuts just loose enough to move the rad. Sit back on the brackets and tighten the nuts. If you keep the pressure up in the system, air should not build up again in the rad.
    Jim.


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    #10
    trad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    Good suggestion Jim but will I not be moving on the air lock further up the system? There again I can vent the other rads. I'll give it a go and see what happens.


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    #11
    Outkast_IRE
    Registered Users Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    JamesM wrote: »
    Sounds like a "Veha" rad - the vent is built in. Most rads , even old, have the vent screw in a seperate fitting that can be replaced. You can try any of the above - the self tapping screw will leak , if you keep trying to bleed it.
    You can try to lift the rad off the brackets, loosen the nuts on either side, then swing the rad forward and down, tighten the nut on one side to avoid a leak, loosen the nut on the other side, catch any water in a container. With the top of the rad lower than the bottom, the air should bubble out at the loosened nut. Raise the rad back up with the nuts just loose enough to move the rad. Sit back on the brackets and tighten the nuts. If you keep the pressure up in the system, air should not build up again in the rad.
    Jim.
    have seen the self tapping screw done plenty of times it doesnt leak if done right , i have one next to me now that was done 4 years ago and its still fine.


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    #12
    JamesM
    Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Outkast_IRE wrote: »
    have seen the self tapping screw done plenty of times it doesnt leak if done right , i have one next to me now that was done 4 years ago and its still fine.
    As I said, the self tapping screw will work fine - if you don't keep loosening it to bleed it. If you keep opening and tightening it, the tape will work away and not seal around the threads.

    Trad, Most of the air will come out at the nut. It would have to go down the pipe to get to the rest of the system. As you say, you can vent the system somewhere else if you need to.
    It will depend on how the rad was fitted, whether you can actually lift it off the brackets. You may not be able to do it if the pipes are set in a concrete floor :(
    Jim.


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    #13
    bigmoma22
    Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    Finally got the key and tried bleeding. 3 rads, one got air out two nothing. I did not want to open the valve too much, so the one that I did bleed I opened about a full turn, closed after hissing stopped, was no water leaking. Other two opened about 3 full turns and no water nor hissing so I closed it. All three were colder on top and warm on bottom. Haven't tried putting heating on yet. Water in rads was cold when I didi this. Also hot press seems to have a leak... but only on outside of the house... Help... help... help...


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    #14
    Joey the lips
    Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    bigmoma22 wrote: »
    Finally got the key and tried bleeding. 3 rads, one got air out two nothing. I did not want to open the valve too much, so the one that I did bleed I opened about a full turn, closed after hissing stopped, was no water leaking. Other two opened about 3 full turns and no water nor hissing so I closed it. All three were colder on top and warm on bottom. Haven't tried putting heating on yet. Water in rads was cold when I didi this. Also hot press seems to have a leak... but only on outside of the house... Help... help... help...


    Get a plumber leak outside the house? mighht be the safety valve


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    #15
    bigmoma22
    Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    Thanks for help,
    got the plumber finally. As I mebtioned I haven't got a clue about any of these (sigh) so I looked at the pressure gauge and saw a hand at 1 bar, well guess what: it was the wrong one, pressure was on 0 hence couldn't really bleed properly. Plumber fixed it in 10 mins, including inspecting the leak. So great to have a nice and warm house!!! And thanks again for your help.


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