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Long Multi pitch climbing in Ireland

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  • 20-09-2009 3:36pm
    #1
    steve McQueen
    Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭


    Anyone know if its possible to find Long Multi pitch climbing in Ireland around diff or v diff 7-12 pitches? maybe mc gillycuddys?

    cheers


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    #2
    Evil Phil
    Registered Users Posts: 7,468 ✭✭✭Evil Phil


    FM in the mournes is 5 or 6 pitches at v.diff. There's stuff doen in conemara too, carrot ridge comes to mind. Howling Ridge is an obvious classic. There's Lugalla has a number of multipitch climbs. Nothing that has to many pitches but the mountain has 2 teirs on it so you could stack on climb on top of another.


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    #3
    j-g-giant
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭j-g-giant


    Carrot Ridge on Bencorr is D i believe, and right beside it theres a great route called Seventh Heaven, HS, 13 pitches according to the guide, but we did it in 6 or seven. A great day out.


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    #4
    j-g-giant
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭j-g-giant


    I meant to say, 7th heaven is all pretty easy apart from one pitch in the middle at the "milk bottle". I'd say the rest is more like VD than HS


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    #5
    Sev
    Registered Users Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭Sev


    http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?topic=1782.0


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    #6
    Sev
    Registered Users Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭Sev


    If you live in or around Dublin, I'd give Luggala a look.

    http://routes.climbing.ie/viewroutes.php?crag=Luggala

    Theres a 5-pitch S called pine tree buttress on Craig Feasra (South Buttress). As Evil Phil says, it's kind of two tiered. At the top of pine tree buttress, is a large ledge and Creag Conaisearach (Conifer Buttress) where there are more routes (at least one of which is VD) which lead to the top of the crag. Stacking one on top of the other is a long day out.

    The crag also has some other D and VD routes, but they dont seem to get any stars. Theres a 3-pitch VD in Glendalough called Pine Tree Buttress.

    Luggala is very heathery climbing. But the rock on Ben Corr (where Carrott Ridge is) is fantastic.

    http://routes.climbing.ie/viewroutes.php?crag=Gleann%20Eidhneach

    Here's a little topo I made a while ago for a trip to Connemara.

    http://www.maths.tcd.ie/~stephenh/bencorr.jpg

    Carrot Ridge (D 275m) is the green line, Seventh Heaven (HS 330m) is the yellow line.


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    #7
    Evil Phil
    Registered Users Posts: 7,468 ✭✭✭Evil Phil


    There's a route in glenmalure that goes as HS which is supposed to be a classic. Can't remember the name though.


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    #8
    NathanKingerlee
    Registered Users Posts: 304 ✭✭NathanKingerlee


    'The Pinnacle' at the start of the Hag's Tooth Ridge in the MacGillycuddy Reeks is about 4+ pitches of V Diff / Severe climbing/scrambling. Really nice, just quite loose in places. Amazing atmosphere at the top with excellent views!
    There's an ok ish V Diff / Severe climb in Glengarrif, down in West Cork. It's on the Irish climbing online guide.


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