Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Stanley range backboiler question...possibly for a plumber.

Options
  • 24-09-2009 11:14pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 14


    I have a second hand stanley range with a backboiler to intall, however I have no use for the backboiler. How do I proceed, do I need to have the backboiler removed or can I just use the Rayburn as is? Someone told me it would explode if I did this. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks:confused:


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    I'm not a plumber but I do have plenty of expreince with Stanley solid fuel cookers both old, very old and new.

    Depending on the condition you should be able to remove the boiler and replace it with firebricks. Most models came with several options of with.without boiler so getting the firebricks to fit should be no problem Don't use it as is with the boiler in place as the metal will just burn out and the fire will burn through the stove.

    I'll google it if no one has the URL to hand but there is a site that sells the firebricks for all the Stanley cookers.

    What model I might have a diagram of it somewhere.

    Edit> Firebrick URL http://www.dineensales.com/CookerParts.aspx check with them if they have the firebricks for your stove if you remove the boiler. At the bottom of the above web page they have a couple of items that might be what you want - firebricks to replace a boiler

    Edit again> http://www.waterfordstanley.com/1523.htm at the bottom of the page has a 2.7Mb download of the Stanley spare parts manual. Take a look at the exploded diagram for the Errigal solid fuel it might be similar to what you have.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    Why dont you want to use the back boiler , that makes no sense , those thing were built for that, you could get a dual coil cylender and hook the back boiler to it to give your self "free" hot water.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 catleo


    Why dont you want to use the back boiler , that makes no sense , those thing were built for that, you could get a dual coil cylender and hook the back boiler to it to give your self "free" hot water.
    Any idea how much I would be looking at for something like that? It's my Uncle actually, just trying to help him get it sorted so it's in for the winter.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 catleo


    ttm wrote: »
    I'm not a plumber but I do have plenty of expreince with Stanley solid fuel cookers both old, very old and new.

    Depending on the condition you should be able to remove the boiler and replace it with firebricks. Most models came with several options of with.without boiler so getting the firebricks to fit should be no problem Don't use it as is with the boiler in place as the metal will just burn out and the fire will burn through the stove.

    I'll google it if no one has the URL to hand but there is a site that sells the firebricks for all the Stanley cookers.

    What model I might have a diagram of it somewhere.

    Edit> Firebrick URL http://www.dineensales.com/CookerParts.aspx check with them if they have the firebricks for your stove if you remove the boiler. At the bottom of the above web page they have a couple of items that might be what you want - firebricks to replace a boiler

    Edit again> http://www.waterfordstanley.com/1523.htm at the bottom of the page has a 2.7Mb download of the Stanley spare parts manual. Take a look at the exploded diagram for the Errigal solid fuel it might be similar to what you have.

    Thanks for the info...much appreciated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    catleo wrote: »
    Any idea how much I would be looking at for something like that? It's my Uncle actually, just trying to help him get it sorted so it's in for the winter.

    Check the boiler is OK first and what type.

    If inside the firebox its just metal at the back its normally just a hot water boiler, if its left hand side and back its a std HW + RADS boiler and if the boiler comes from the back around the front and over the firebox door its a wrap around boiler which is as big a boiler as you can get for the maximum number of rads.

    So if you have one of the bigger boilers its a full plumbing job to use the heat from it or you'll very soon have too much hot water.

    Makes sence to use the boiler but it might end up costing a lot more than you orignally intended.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 catleo


    ttm wrote: »
    Check the boiler is OK first and what type.

    If inside the firebox its just metal at the back its normally just a hot water boiler, if its left hand side and back its a std HW + RADS boiler and if the boiler comes from the back around the front and over the firebox door its a wrap around boiler which is as big a boiler as you can get for the maximum number of rads.

    So if you have one of the bigger boilers its a full plumbing job to use the heat from it or you'll very soon have too much hot water.

    Makes sence to use the boiler but it might end up costing a lot more than you orignally intended.

    Yeah it's the wrap around big one, will it be possible to remove this type of boiler?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    Never done it, but you can get them out to replace them. I think how easy it is depends on the condition of the stove, also why I said to take a look at the manual. I'm only guessing, so any genuine hands on advice helpful here guys, but I think you have to take the top off the stove which is often held together with 4 top to bottom connecting rods.


Advertisement