Lighting - What to buy, where to buy it?

Xiney

Does anyone have any websites that give detailed examples of the lighting used including the wattage?

I want two strobes with umbrellas, but I don't know what wattage I need. I'll mainly be doing individual and small group portraits indoors, a lot of high key.

Also, where in Ireland is the best place to buy lighting?

Hugh_C

Not sure if this will have everything but I believe their service is great ...

UK based

http://www.stevesphotoshop.co.uk/

oshead

While trying to evaluate one strobe system over another, the first thing you should look at is the systems guide number (GN). This is the f stop number measured using the systems maximum power in metres or feet at ISO100. If you buy a system with a five stop range, you can figure out the closest and furthest distance you need to achieve a proper exposure. For instance, A 5 stop power range 500w/s strobe light will have a minium power of 31w/s. With a GN of f90 @ 1 meter, ISO100 with a 48° reflector you can work out the f number at its lowest power (31w/s). Sounds a bit complicated but you can figure it out quite easily. Have a look at the chart below for the general idea.

Please note: The actual numbers may differ from system to system. This is meant as a general guide
Guide Number chart
ISO 100 with 48° reflector
Power w/s @ 1 meter @ 1.6 meters @ 2.55 meters
500 f90 f64 f45
250 f64 f48 f32
125 f45 f32 f22
62.5 f32 f22 f16
31 f22 f16 f11
16 f16 f11 f8
8 f11 f8 f5.6
4 f8 f5.6 f4

The example above has an 8 stop power range. The distance measured is in meters and covers a three stop range. Increasing the distance from the strobe by 60% looses you 1 f stop. Hense the numbers, 1,1.6 and 2.55 meters.

Add an Umberella or softbox to the mix and you reduce the f stop number even more. Plus you can get neutral density gels to further reduce the number for really tight spaces. Changing the reflector to a higher degree number than 48° will enable you to reduce the f stop number even further still.

I have a couple of Elinchroms BX500Ri which I purchased a few weeks ago and have found that I've never any need to up the power more than 25%. So in effect I have way too much power for my current needs. A 250w/s system with a 5 stop power range would easily have done me. If I want to shoot at lower apertures (f2.8 to f5.6) I can turn the flash strobe off and use the modeling light if needed. Alternatively I could switch to a couple of Canon 580EX II flashes.

I hope that answers the question, what to buy. Where to buy? Warehouse Express.com

Hope this helps.
David OS

Xiney

oshead wrote: »

While trying to evaluate one strobe system over another, the first thing you should look at is the systems guide number (GN). This is the f stop number measured using the systems maximum power in metres or feet at ISO100. If you buy a system with a five stop range, you can figure out the closest and furthest distance you need to achieve a proper exposure. For instance, A 5 stop power range 500w/s strobe light will have a minium power of 31w/s. With a GN of f90 @ 1 meter, ISO100 with a 48° reflector you can work out the f number at its lowest power (31w/s). Sounds a bit complicated but you can figure it out quite easily. Have a look at the chart below for the general idea.

Please note: The actual numbers may differ from system to system. This is meant as a general guide
Guide Number chart
ISO 100 with 48° reflector
Power w/s @ 1 meter @ 1.6 meters @ 2.55 meters
500 f90 f64 f45
250 f64 f48 f32
125 f45 f32 f22
62.5 f32 f22 f16
31 f22 f16 f11
16 f16 f11 f8
8 f11 f8 f5.6
4 f8 f5.6 f4

The example above has an 8 stop power range. The distance measured is in meters and covers a three stop range. Increasing the distance from the strobe by 60% looses you 1 f stop. Hense the numbers, 1,1.6 and 2.55 meters.

Add an Umberella or softbox to the mix and you reduce the f stop number even more. Plus you can get neutral density gels to further reduce the number for really tight spaces. Changing the reflector to a higher degree number than 48° will enable you to reduce the f stop number even further still.

I have a couple of Elinchroms BX500Ri which I purchased a few weeks ago and have found that I've never any need to up the power more than 25%. So in effect I have way too much power for my current needs. A 250w/s system with a 5 stop power range would easily have done me. If I want to shoot at lower apertures (f2.8 to f5.6) I can turn the flash strobe off and use the modeling light if needed. Alternatively I could switch to a couple of Canon 580EX II flashes.

I hope that answers the question, what to buy. Where to buy? Warehouse Express.com

Hope this helps.
David OS

Excellent. That's exactly what I was looking for.

oshead

Xiney wrote: »

Excellent. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Just to follow up on my last post. Nothing better than a real world test. Numbers are fine. But do they add up?

The guide number on my BX500Ri is 90. I did a little test. The parameters were. 31w/s @ ISO100, from 1 meter with a 66cm square softbox attached. I got a reading of f13. Thats fine. Just what I expected. I removed the diffusion from the softbox and took another reading. This was f20. The only difference between my test and the chart above is the 48° reflector. The reflector in the my softbox is about 90°. So, In conclusion, it seems to add up.

Xiney

Ah well, I'm afraid I'll have to buy before I test as I don't really run in 'tog circles so I'm running in a bit blind!

I'm sure it'll all work out. Until now I've been using nothing but natural light and adapting to that... I'm sure I'll adapt to something I can actually control.

ValueInIreland

Hi, If you are going down the Elinchrom Route (Good move!) they are stocked in Ireland by Gunnes, Conns, Bermingham Cameras, Sheldon Photographic, Camera Centre (All Dublin), Whelan cameras in Limerick and Barker Photographic in Cork (also the importers). Gernerally prices in Ireland match those like Warehouse Express.
The Elinchrom D-Lite's are a great Pro-Sumer level light with 200w or 400 w (D-Lite2 or D-Lite4) options. There is a great value kit with one of each head, two umbrellas, stands and all the bits for under €520. If you are doing full blown Professional work (or aiming to) you should consider the Elinchrom BX-Ri heads which are built for heavy use and have built in Radio receivers, the start just under the €1,000 mark.

quilmore

I have a pair of 180w and they never go over the minimum when shooting in my living room, even at shooting at f/8 or f/11

Xiney

Actually, now that I've done a bit more research I'm thinking a continuous set up would be better for me now that they have fluorescent bulbs that run cool.

oshead

Because fluorescent run cold it becomes a very viable option for you. If you can get a daylight balanced set, you can use them in conjunction with large windows and even outdoors. So you don't have the added pain of trying to balance flourescent 3200 kelvin with daylight 5500 - 5900.

If you are shooting babies and toddlers you are probably probably better off with continous lights. As long as you can get the shutter speed fast enough. Kids are so active and never stop moving. Putting the camera into highspeed continous shooting mode and shoot away. If there is a good expression to be had from the child, you're bound to catch it.

Next issue is the power. Have a look at this article, it may help you decide.

Hope this helps.
David OS

Xiney

yes - because I'll be focussing mainly on children's portraiture, I think continuous lighting would be less distracting to them.

I've found a kit of daylight balanced fluorescents well within my price range and I think I'll be going with them

ValueInIreland

If you want continuous lighting - this is a great kit or ther is a 9 bulb head / kit also available which will give you more options for a higher shutter speed or smaller f-stop.

Xiney

ValueInIreland wrote: »

If you want continuous lighting - this is a great kit or ther is a 9 bulb head / kit also available which will give you more options for a higher shutter speed or smaller f-stop.

That does look like a great kit. do you know how much it goes for? (no price on the page)

I'd need two.

oshead

Before you buy that or any other continous lighting kit, i'd check to make sure that you can get a good fast shutter speed at narrower apertures. Say f9 to f11 without having to up the ISO speed. Slowest speeds i'd suggest are around a child stopping 250sec to 500sec.