Anyone going to get film devloped this week in Dublin?

dazftw

I need 2 rolls of b&w film developed.. I can't get it done here in Waterford, I don't have any place to post it to in Dublin and I cant justify paying over 15 quid to send them to England to get done. I usually send stuff in bulk over there when I have alot.. but its only 2 rolls. I just need these rolls by the end of the week and that wont happen with England..

So is there anyone thats up for doing this for me? Ill send on the money in a registered padded envelope with the rolls..

Thanks guys.. I feel horrible for asking this

Panhour

Have tank and developer you can have a loan, do you want to do it yourself? In Waterford so you could have it developed by tonight!

trishw78

I have a tank and developer also

dazftw

Yeah ive never done it before myself.. ive seen it being done but never done it.. if one of ye want to run me through that would be cool? Shouldnt take long..

AnCatDubh

Is it the case that you need someone to accept a posted exposed film, leave in film to be processed at a convenient location to them and post the results to you - all costs covered by you?

If so, is it still not going to leave it tight time wise for you? An Post being the problem?

Panhour

yeah, will give you a run through as well....

dazftw

Yeah like if someone was getting film done this week I could post them my film to be done with theres and then posted back to me.. it would be cheaper and quicker than sending it to England.. Pete on here usually did it for me but hes busy for the next few weeks so he cant..

Thanks Panhour ill send you a pm

dazftw

Got the stuff off Panhour in the middle of doing it now.. just after mixing the ilford developer and letting it cool down.. exciting stuff

Getting the film in the spindle took a few tries but I got it

dazftw

any of you pro film developers tell me what I did wrong?

Its neopan 400 and the dev time was 26deg for 5mins and then fixed it for another 10
then washed for for like 5...

and have any of ye ever developed tri-x 400 in ilford ID-11? I can't find any times/temps for it anywhere..

Ghost Train

Edit: think I was looking at the wrong document, this might be the right one
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf
reading up on id-11 it seems its equivalent to D76?

do you usually scan your own film and is it definitely the processing when the problem is?

DaireQuinlan

What was your agitation like ? Bottom of the film where the unexposed strip seems to 'bleed' into the exposed area of the film seems to indicate under agitation to me.
I'm looking at this on a phone screen so I can't really see whats wrong, but if its the general tone of the thing then it's also likely to be your post scanning processing.
Make sure its cropped to jist the image area and do a proper levels adjustment, then play with curves until the contrast looks right. Shouldn't take much if it's levelled properly to begin with.

Panhour

http://www.darkroom.ru/info/manuals/ilford_powder_developers_manual_eng.pdf

Info on 1D 11 developer, it includes tri-x 400!

dazftw

Yeah its just all the negatives are really grainy, compared to another set of neopan negatives I have they are see through and mine are milky white. I took them out and they looked fine, only after I let them dry could I see it..

trishw78

the milky white is probably your fix. had the same problem a while back, if you try re-fixing with fresh fix it should solve the milkyness

DaireQuinlan

dazftw wrote: »

Yeah its just all the negatives are really grainy, compared to another set of neopan negatives I have they are see through and mine are milky white. I took them out and they looked fine, only after I let them dry could I see it..

What trishw said, just re-fix them. I've done this once or twice when I used to re-use my fixer. No need to stick them back on a reel or anything, If you've cut them into strips then even easier, just dunk them into a graduated cylinder of fix until they clear up properly. Then re-scan them

dazftw

DaireQuinlan wrote: »

What trishw said, just re-fix them. I've done this once or twice when I used to re-use my fixer. No need to stick them back on a reel or anything, If you've cut them into strips then even easier, just dunk them into a graduated cylinder of fix until they clear up properly. Then re-scan them

I will give this a try now..

thanks guys

pete4130

make sure you have the dillution of the fixer spot on too....you don't want to cook it in there for too long!

DaireQuinlan

pete4130 wrote: »

make sure you have the dillution of the fixer spot on too....you don't want to cook it in there for too long!

Doesn't really matter that much. Fix is a process to completion, you'd have to leave it in concentrated fix for hours and hours for anything untoward to start happening to the film. I always overfix nowadays after a few re-fixes early on.

dazftw

didnt work

DaireQuinlan

dazftw wrote: »

didnt work

So what, they're still translucent and milky coloured ? That's almost certainly bad fix, thats the only time I've ever seen anything resembling that. Did you re-try with the same fix ? Or do up new stuff ? To test the fix, cut a bit off the leader from another roll of film and throw it into the fix. It should turn completely transparent in a few minutes. If it doesn't change at all then the fix is gone completely.

Panhour

Sorry Daz, thinking about it now, that fix could be gone off...

dazftw

They're not even translucent, only the image is a small bit! The borders are completely milky.

For the fix I think I did just under 100 ml fix and like 400 ml 20 degree water... I dunno if that was right or not im trying to get use to all this dilution stuff with the developer I just made the litre and filled up the tank 400ml.

DaireQuinlan

dazftw wrote: »

They're not even translucent, only the image is a small bit! The borders are completely milky.

For the fix I think I did just under 100 ml fix and like 400 ml 20 degree water... I dunno if that was right or not im trying to get use to all this dilution stuff with the developer I just made the litre and filled up the tank 400ml.

That sounds about right, I normally use 1+4 or 1+5 aswell. From what panhour is saying though it could be gone off anyhow. Try that leader test and see how long it takes to clear (just to clarify that, its a bit of leader from an undeveloped film that you want, and you can just do it in normal light and just inspect it now and again). If it doesn't clear at all then the fixer is deffo dead. If it clears after ages, then normal practice is to leave your actual film in the fix twice as long as the test bit took to clear. As I was saying above, overfixing generally isn't a problem in most cases, so err on the side of enthusiasm.

dazftw

Yeah ill try that with the same amount? Should I agitate it or anything? I ruined the other film now though I was letting it dry and they all fell on eachother and got stuck! Now theres marks of the sprockets all over them

I have the roll of tri x here im afraid to try

ok so ive had the leader in there for a good while and nothing is happening..