NCT failure feedd back please

Greenmachine

Guy just done my NCT today and it failed on a few things loooking to vent a little and get ideas on cost to replace repair.

Car is a Toyota Corolla GLI 94

1. Body work (35) Primary structure corrosion. reason door sills pillars located on the nearside near. (Looked up their website from what I cant make out it is not within 100mm of the door pillar. It is actually over 250mm from it. from their defenition as far as I can tell that makes it part of the secondary structure. It is however more than visible rust with a hole in that area. as long as none of those areas are not sharp that should make it a level 2 secondary structure and therefore passable. Rust is along the lenght of the car on the underside. Can post pics if it would help people visualise what I am talking about.

Steering linkage (43) Locking devices missing pin nearside front also (43) inner tie end worn No probs with this one was told pin in locking device could easily be replaced when the inner tie rod end was replaced. Just want to know what this is likely to cost me the parts and labour ball park figure.

Actually passed the sllip test -2 m slippage front range +14 to -14
........................................-13m rear range...........+18 to -18

Rear shock absorber offside condition leaking. Far as I know these can't be repaired so looking like replacement. Is it really necessary to replace these as a pair. Advantages any way to test how worn these are barring that they are leaking. Are sapre an option or should I go new again ideas of cost. Hoping not much.

Fuel system Air filter assembly is loose apparently saw the mechanic give it a good shake at the first station figured that was why it was loose but when I checked it myself it seemed fine. It's a k & N and was securely fastened to the hose but not mounted anywhere. Think this one is BS to be honest but don't want to have to do a second retest because of it ideas.

Rear suspension system anti roll bar bushes and links worn nearside rear Just the price on this one please guessing it is some how realted to the shock on the opisite side bushes and link have to work hard because of no damping on the other side.

robtri

Bring it to a garage,
too much work here to estimate reasonable repair costs figures.

but I would say the chances are it isn't worth replacing, would be a lot cheaper to buy a different car

Muckie

Bit of work involved here.
Probably rust proofing and welding metal plate on the sill.
Only replace the shock thats failed the test.
The bushing can be awkward to replace.
All depends what the car is worth to you. Get a price from
your friendly mechanic.

Greenmachine

Feel it is worth putting the money in within reason. 10 months tax on it and new tyre. Would prolly be lucky to get 500 for it without the nct and probs. New tyres and tax are worth more. Would be like buying something so I could sell it at a loss.Then there is the cost to replace. Never going to make back anything I put it to it but I get use out of it.

Are sills themselves welded onto the mainframe or bolted on. The actually mainframe itself isn't corroded just the plate covering possible to get this in a breakers maybe?

richardsheil

Greenmachine wrote: »

Feel it is worth putting the money in within reason. 10 months tax on it and new tyre. Would prolly be lucky to get 500 for it without the nct and probs. New tyres and tax are worth more. Would be like buying something so I could sell it at a loss.Then there is the cost to replace. Never going to make back anything I put it to it but I get use out of it.

Are sills themselves welded onto the mainframe or bolted on. The actually mainframe itself isn't corroded just the plate covering possible to get this in a breakers maybe?

You wouldn't get 50 quid for it.
Sorry.

unkel

Greenmachine wrote: »

Feel it is worth putting the money in within reason. 10 months tax on it and new tyre.

If you scrap it, you'll get a tax refund.

richardsheil

unkel wrote: »

If you scrap it, you'll get a tax refund.

Excellent point. Might really be time to face the fact that it is beyond economical repair.

Sorry again.

Del2005

Muckie wrote: »

Bit of work involved here.
Probably rust proofing and welding metal plate on the sill.
Only replace the shock thats failed the test.
The bushing can be awkward to replace.
All depends what the car is worth to you. Get a price from
your friendly mechanic.

This can backfire if the other one isn't too good, as there is a suspension balance test as well.

BrianD3

A sill is primary structure, if there is a hole in it it doesn't matter how close/far it is to/from a door pillar. There is no separate frame on your car, the sills, floor, pillars, roof etc. are what give the car its strength. Anyhow the sill can probably be welded easily, a cheap job won't be pretty but enough to pass the test. I'd say the suspension and steering work would cost around 250 quid at an indy garage if you only replace the faulty shock. Overall the car might just be economical to repair. But if you plan to keep it, expect to have to do more welding as a car that fails the NCT once on rust holes will probably need more welding to keep rust at bay.

daveharnett

My sympathies OP. Off the top of my head. If you find a friendly mechanic and source parts from the scrappies wherever possible, i'd say three to four hundred quid could do it.

That being said, if the rust is as bad as it sounds, then the car is on borrowed time. A replacement might make more sense in the medium term. You can pick up something with 4 good tyres, no rust and nct'd for what you'd spend on repairs in the next six months.

Greenmachine

daveharnett wrote: »

My sympathies OP. Off the top of my head. If you find a friendly mechanic and source parts from the scrappies wherever possible, i'd say three to four hundred quid could do it.

That being said, if the rust is as bad as it sounds, then the car is on borrowed time. A replacement might make more sense in the medium term. You can pick up something with 4 good tyres, no rust and nct'd for what you'd spend on repairs in the next six months.

When I said it was on the lenght. I didn't mean the whole lenght hole is about 5 x 8 cm looks like it got a whack somewhere.

What else would I have to spend on repairs in the next 6 months.

salamander27

I'd fix it up if i were you. The hole is probably only caused by the dent where some paint was scraped off. The rest of the body work should be fine. The rust proofing on that model corolla was far superior to the previous model.
Suspension links and bushes, tie rods or shocks could go on any car of similar price/age and if the engine has been looked after it will go for ever just as long as you check it for oil ever so often!

Get the welding done as cheap as possible. It just needs to bridge the hole to pass the test.

Even at 15 years of age they are still quite a reliable car.

gofaster_s13

salamander27 wrote: »

I'd fix it up if i were you. The hole is probably only caused by the dent where some paint was scraped off. The rest of the body work should be fine. The rust proofing on that model corolla was far superior to the previous model.

See this model Corolla in regularly enough for DOE tests, the sills(inner and outer) fall out of them, a bit of a poke with a screwdriver and hey presto Bran Flakes start falling out of the sills:D, chances are when the panelbeater starts cleaning back the area thats failed the hole is going to be a lot bigger than the 5x8cm that it is now.

Beta Ray Bill

massive ammount of work

Dump it. not worth the effort for such an old car

salamander27

Well i guess the OP better get down on his knees and give the cills a good poking with a screw driver or a few gentle tap with the handle. And in that case if theres more holes it might be cause for concern. But the rust could be quite localised as i have seen before on these cars.

Anyway no harm in getting a price from someone.