Light Recommendations (formerly Front Light For Dark Country) Road Commute

cdaly_ · 06-09-2018 4:55pm

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

is the beam focused enough to prevent dazzling on comers?? Need to sort one out for myself asap

I'd say not. Compare the Te-Rich to a B&M properly focussed light.

The Te-Rich has a straight parabolic reflector with the led centred (this means light is sent up, down, sideways). The B&M has an led offset in a partial parabolic reflector (this means light is send in a more directed way).
The Te-Rich has a plain cover glass (This means light is transmitted however it comes off the reflector). The B&M has a lens as cover glass (This means the light is focussed in some manner).
The Te-Rich led is visible in the centre (This means much of its output is entirely undirected). The B&M led is under cover at the top of the reflector (This means all of its output is directed by the reflector).
The Te-Rich beam pattern lights up trees, road, hedges and only a fraction of its light hits the road surface. The B&M beam pattern lights up the road and verges and all of its light hits the road surface.
The Te-Rich will dazzle the fcuk out of oncoming road users unless you point it down to the point that it only lights the road in front of your wheel.

tldr: If you want a light for commuting, don't buy the Te-Rich (or anything of a similar nature). German street-legal lights will do a fine job...

Justwinginit · 06-09-2018 6:42pm

clod71 wrote: »

@Justwinginit I don't know how to thank you enough for your input. The light came yesterday and last night I went out on some back roads, in total darkness it was like riding at noon even at 40 km/h
I still can't believe the amount of light is coming out of that...
Given the price of it, I'm thinking of buying a second one... with a spare battery in the jersey pocket I think you could easily ride all night!!!

Ah good stuff....i taped off the top half of the light with black electrical tape to stop blinding peeps. My neighbour bought one after he seen the light from mine....i done croi and had it flashing and it lasted 4 and half hours and another couple of hours after that. I will be picking up another just for the spare battery.....

Wishbone Ash · 07-09-2018 12:56am

Nine years later, I'm wondering did the OP ever get a suitable front light for a dark country road commute.

jethrothe2nd · 07-09-2018 8:55am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Nine years later, I'm wondering did the OP ever get a suitable front light for a dark country road commute.

Me too - usually I stop commuting to work by bike over the winter, but this year I am strongly considering keeping going. Given that most of the way is on unlit back roads, I'm looking for a decent (ish) set of lights on a budget of about 60 squids. Anyone any recommendations?

DeepBlue · 07-09-2018 10:16am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Nine years later, I'm wondering did the OP ever get a suitable front light for a dark country road commute.

Feck, I thought this thread was maybe a couple of years old. Time flies. :eek:

benneca1 · 07-09-2018 11:12am

Exposure Strada 1200 pricey but still the best out there. Connect the remote switch and only use full when descending. You will get 12 hours plus of perfectly adequate light on medium and 36 on low which is grand if you are going slow and save the bright beam (4 hours ).

jethrothe2nd · 07-09-2018 11:47am

benneca1 wrote: »

Exposure Strada 1200 pricey but still the best out there. Connect the remote switch and only use full when descending. You will get 12 hours plus of perfectly adequate light on medium and 36 on low which is grand if you are going slow and save the bright beam (4 hours ).

I'd say I'd be receiving notice of divorce proceedings if I spent that much on a light.

Macy0161 · 17-09-2018 2:47pm

Have my dynamo hub wheel picked out, german standard front and rear lights picked - what else do I need? I have 2 wire light cable in the basket. Is that it (apart from the rim tape and rotor for the new wheel)?

Mefistofelino · 17-09-2018 3:10pm

Macy0161 wrote: »

Have my dynamo hub wheel picked out, german standard front and rear lights picked - what else do I need? I have 2 wire light cable in the basket. Is that it (apart from the rim tape and rotor for the new wheel)?

Lamp brackets?

Correct wiring connector for hub? Shimano and SP use a Lego block type connector, SON uses spades. The Lego block type usually comes in a bag with the dynamo hub, just need to make sure it's shipped with a built wheel. (I think I had to buy the spades separately when I got a SON wheel.) Its also worth buying a spare - they're cheap.

Does the rear light cable come with the correct connectors at each end?
FWIW, the SON cable is the nicest - a very flexible co-ax with good insulation

Macy0161 · 17-09-2018 3:20pm

Shimano Hub, with the lego block. Everything else is Busch + Müller - IQ-X headlamp, Toplight rear one for the rack. You made me look again at the wiring for the brake light function though, as appears to have to come from the headlight. It will have to wait until this evening though.

Mefistofelino · 17-09-2018 3:30pm

Macy0161 wrote: »

Shimano Hub, with the lego block. Everything else is Busch + Müller - IQ-X headlamp, Toplight rear one for the rack. You made me look again at the wiring for the brake light function though, as appears to have to come from the headlight. It will have to wait until this evening though.

I think I got a bundled cable with a B&M Secula rear lamp before.

The brake-light function still only uses the same two wire cable as a standard rear light.

what_traffic · 17-09-2018 3:30pm

Macy0161 wrote: »

Shimano Hub, with the lego block. Everything else is Busch + Müller - IQ-X headlamp, Toplight rear one for the rack. You made me look again at the wiring for the brake light function though, as appears to have to come from the headlight. It will have to wait until this evening though.

Would recommend to use shrink heat plastic tube where the cable enters the Shimano Hub lego block. Use a cigarette lighter to heat it. That is what I did with mine. Have exact same light setup as yourself, its good kit.

Macy0161 · 18-09-2018 8:27am

Just one last thing that I'm just wondering for future reference.... if you had two wheels set up, say one with a lighterweight dyno hub and rim, and one a cheap heavy dyno hub with bullet proof rim (and commuter tyres), is it just unconnect the lego block from one and reconnect? Would the connection be robust enough for say weekly change overs like that? I'm presuming so, as if you puncture you'd have to disconnect? Sorry, that's probably a stupid question!

Weepsie · 18-09-2018 9:44am

In short, Yes. I would think so anyway.

what_traffic · 18-09-2018 12:42pm

Weepsie wrote: »

In short, Yes. I would think so anyway.

Probably would, but not something I do with my setup. Maybe get a spare "lego block" from B&M to have in reserve just in case you ever have a mis-hap. That would be the part that would most likely fail.

Macy0161 · 18-09-2018 1:11pm

Yeah, I think I've ruled that out. I'm still mulling over work security, even for just the light of the set up. No batteries is no benefit if no light when I go back to it!

ILIKEFOOD · 18-09-2018 1:58pm

wasn't even thinking dynamo until I saw this thread

anyone familiar with this german company?

https://www.taylor-wheels.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=laufrad_groesse&p=11&q=dynamo+wheel

Prices seem quite low for a wheel with dynamo...(not knowing anything about dynamos!)

Euppy · 18-09-2018 8:20pm

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

wasn't even thinking dynamo until I saw this thread

anyone familiar with this german company?

https://www.taylor-wheels.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=laufrad_groesse&p=11&q=dynamo+wheel

Prices seem quite low for a wheel with dynamo...(not knowing anything about dynamos!)

Bought 26in wheels from them 2 years ago with cheap shimano dynamo hub and deore rear hub. Still perfectly true and bearings are smooth. Cheapest by a mile when I was buying and I was sceptical too. Scepticism was unfounded.

ILIKEFOOD · 18-09-2018 10:15pm

Euppy wrote: »

Bought 26in wheels from them 2 years ago with cheap shimano dynamo hub and deore rear hub. Still perfectly true and bearings are smooth. Cheapest by a mile when I was buying and I was sceptical too. Scepticism was unfounded.

Interesting - I’ll have to look into this further! Assume there’s all sorts of lights that need certain types of dynamos to generate the required power and all that?

Euppy · 19-09-2018 10:58am

ILIKEFOOD wrote: »

Euppy wrote: »

Bought 26in wheels from them 2 years ago with cheap shimano dynamo hub and deore rear hub. Still perfectly true and bearings are smooth. Cheapest by a mile when I was buying and I was sceptical too. Scepticism was unfounded.

Interesting - I’ll have to look into this further! Assume there’s all sorts of lights that need certain types of dynamos to generate the required power and all that?

Typically any dynamo light will work with any dynamo. Theyre all designed to be 3v(?). Anyway, nust buy some german brand head and tail lights, you wont regret it.

I got a wheelset, and lights for roughly 200e. Never having to think/worry about lights is great. Ive got a b&m headlight and is perfect on unlit roads.

cdaly_ · 19-09-2018 3:08pm

Macy0161 wrote: »

Yeah, I think I've ruled that out. I'm still mulling over work security, even for just the light of the set up. No batteries is no benefit if no light when I go back to it!

With the light being bolted to the frame/fork/rack, it's less likely to be taken. It's also not that obvious on the bike.

Depending on which front light you get it may or may not come with wire for the rear light. If you wire the rear light to the front then you can control both lights from the front light switch. Otherwise the rear light is always on (not a bad thing in my view). As I understand it, the rear light has the brake functionality built in so it should work independently of the front. I must try wiring mine separately by way of test...

Macy0161 · 19-09-2018 4:37pm

cdaly_ wrote:

Depending on which front light you get it may or may not come with wire for the rear light. If you wire the rear light to the front then you can control both lights from the front light switch. Otherwise the rear light is always on (not a bad thing in my view). As I understand it, the rear light has the brake functionality built in so it should work independently of the front. I must try wiring mine separately by way of test...

From what I can make out the brake light function needs the connection to the front light. The ones I picked are always on I think. Certainly the front, as it's a sensor one.

Are b&m a standard fitting? I see other companies have quick release mounts, and there does seem to be a couple of quick release wire connectors out there, like dyna snap? I think I'm looking at handle bar mounted, I'd be happy enough crown mounted would fly under the radar of the average scrote. I might be able to flatten the standard crown mount I guess, but tyre clearance with mudguards is fairly tight as it is.

cdaly_ · 20-09-2018 10:05am

I'd go for the crown mount every time. I don't think there should be an issue with tyre clearance as your fork should be drilled front-to-back and the mount shouldn't get near tyre or even top of mudguard.

Macy0161 · 20-09-2018 11:54am

cdaly_ wrote: »

I'd go for the crown mount every time. I don't think there should be an issue with tyre clearance as your fork should be drilled front-to-back and the mount shouldn't get near tyre or even top of mudguard.

No, what I meant is my fork crown doesn't have a mounting point. It's disc braked. It may have one under the crown for mudguards - but I don't think it does - I forgot to check last night. I'm 99% sure it only has a mounting point on the rear/ insider of the crown for the mudguard.

If it did have one underneath, and I could do something, it would involved lowering the mudguard which is where the clearance would come in. i.e. underneath the crown i'd have light mount on the mounting point + mudguard, and I don't think that'd leave clearance.

cdaly_ · 20-09-2018 12:12pm

Interesting. Mine has canti brakes but is also drilled through the crown but then again, it is a Thorn and they provide every possible mount point they can...

Weepsie · 20-09-2018 1:12pm

You could look at getting a headset mount? They basically replace a spacer, and have the light positioned a bit higher than they would if on the crown, but lower and cleaner than on the handlebars.

I'm going to get one or 2 myself just as an option.

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php

If you've a 1" steerer you can order from SJS

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-to-fit-headset-222mm1-inch-steerer-tube-in-plastic/

easily filed down too I guess ( and judging by reviews)

Mefistofelino · 20-09-2018 1:53pm

Weepsie wrote: »

You could look at getting a headset mount? They basically replace a spacer, and have the light positioned a bit higher than they would if on the crown, but lower and cleaner than on the handlebars.

I'm going to get one or 2 myself just as an option.

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php

If you've a 1" steerer you can order from SJS

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-to-fit-headset-222mm1-inch-steerer-tube-in-plastic/

easily filed down too I guess ( and judging by reviews)

Would that not result in the headlamp ending up in the middle of the gear & brake cables and getting tangled when you turn?

Macy0161 · 20-09-2018 3:35pm

Mefistofelino wrote: »

Would that not result in the headlamp ending up in the middle of the gear & brake cables and getting tangled when you turn?

I did look at them and had the same conclusion. It's already a bit of an issue when I have my cycliq on an outfront mount. I think handle bar is the option - well that's what's in my basket anyway (still haven't pulled the trigger though!).

Mc Love · 20-09-2018 3:44pm

Came across this really good blog

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/09/20/myth-14-more-lumens-make-a-better-light/

Lights seem expensive though.

cdaly_ · 20-09-2018 4:38pm

The Son lights are pretty expensive. The B&M not so much. I spent under €50 on my audax headlamp and around €30 on a commuter version. Both give excellent road illumination and catch the attention of drivers. I'm well happy with both.

If you buy one of the cheap Cree lamps, you waste a lot of energy lighting the sky, you get limited battery life and therefore lighting time and you have the hassle of charging, carrying spare batteries etc.

Light Recommendations (formerly Front Light For Dark Country) Road Commute

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