Boiler lockout

Southern Dandy

How r things,

GF's Boiler locked out and wont start, tried to restart it like a billion times and no good, oil tank was just topped up recently, any ideas or suggestions cos i need the brownie points....Sorry if this is in the wrong section, its a firebird boiler

Cheers lads

2011

Check the water pressure on the gauge. A minimum of 1.5 Bar is required with many boilers.

Southern Dandy

2011 wrote: »

Check the water pressure on the gauge. A minimum of 1.5 Bar is required with many boilers.

What if its below??? How do get it to fire up again if thats the case

Billy Bunting

If the boiler has gone to lock out, ie, lockout light on, that would indicate a problem with the burner. What will it do ?? when you push the lockout button, does it run ??? for how long ?? can you hear the spark clicking ?? does it ignite then lock out ?? after how long ??

davelerave

could be just airlock.there's a nut inside cover

Southern Dandy

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If the boiler has gone to lock out, ie, lockout light on, that would indicate a problem with the burner. What will it do ?? when you push the lockout button, does it run ??? for how long ?? can you hear the spark clicking ?? does it ignite then lock out ?? after how long ??

Yea once you press and hold the reset for a few secs the lockout light is gone, it doesnt spark at all, just runs for about 30 seconds and cuts out.

Southern Dandy

Tis almost like its about to ignite and just cuts out, and the lockout indicator pops up again

Southern Dandy

davelerave wrote: »

could be just airlock.there's a nut inside cover

In the boiler unit itself dave is it?

Billy Bunting

If it runs for 30 seconds it would seem that its at the stage where it should be igniting and because it doesnt it locks out, this would indicate an ignition problem, Tansformer or Electronic ignition unit (dependent on model), it could also be simply that you have a small build up of carbon (soot) on the electrodes and this is preventing the igniter from sparking across to the other. Are you able to remove the burner ???

Southern Dandy

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If it runs for 30 seconds it would seem that its at the stage where it should be igniting and because it doesnt it locks out, this would indicate an ignition problem, Tansformer or Electronic ignition unit (dependent on model), it could also be simply that you have a small build up of carbon (soot) on the electrodes and this is preventing the igniter from sparking across to the other. Are you able to remove the burner ???

Well im a sparks by trade (industrial only, never gone near domestic hence the lack of knowledge bout em) and fairly decent with my hands like but i dont wana be tearin there boiler apart, see am guna carry the tools up 2mr like and open a few covers see if i can see anything. could it be anything else?

davelerave

did it work since the oil refill?if not you prob need to loosen the bolt inside unit and fire it a few times

Southern Dandy

davelerave wrote: »

did it work since the oil refill?if not you prob need to loosen the bolt inside unit and fire it a few times

No dave it didnt run since the oil went in twas grand before that, wheres this nut in the unit???

davelerave

just pull off the burner cover and i think it's on left centre

Southern Dandy

davelerave wrote: »

just pull off the burner cover and i think it's on left centre

Cheers dave ill take alook at that tomorrow.

Kensington

The bleed screw is either on the top or side of the burner fuel pump - a small black box where the oil line from the tank physically enters the burner. Loosen this, wait a few seconds and try to start the burner up - be ready to close the screw quickly though or you will have oil pissing everywhere when the airlock clears! Sometimes the oil will come through itself with ever having to start the burner, other times it takes a few starts to prime it through. If it point blank refuses to come through though, don't keep attempting to start the burner or you risk damaging the fuel pump.

BTW. If it's a Riello brand burner fitted to the boiler, practically all of these burners come fitted with a red or blue case which covers the front of the burner unit and which you'll need to remove in order to be able to get at the fuel pump and bleed screw.

Southern Dandy

Kensington wrote: »

The bleed screw is either on the top or side of the burner fuel pump - a small black box where the oil line from the tank physically enters the burner. Loosen this, wait a few seconds and try to start the burner up - be ready to close the screw quickly though or you will have oil pissing everywhere when the airlock clears! Sometimes the oil will come through itself with ever having to start the burner, other times it takes a few starts to prime it through. If it point blank refuses to come through though, don't keep attempting to start the burner or you risk damaging the fuel pump.

BTW. If it's a Riello brand burner fitted to the boiler, practically all of these burners come fitted with a red or blue case which covers the front of the burner unit and which you'll need to remove in order to be able to get at the fuel pump and bleed screw.

Ok went at it today, found the fitting for where the tank joins the unit itself, loosened the dial waited a few secs tried starting it and not a sausage im afraid...and i dont wana run the pump dry like u said so gave up till i can get more info

davelerave

inside the burner cover.you can upload a picture someone will show you the right part

Southern Dandy

davelerave wrote: »

inside the burner cover.you can upload a picture someone will show you the right part

Tis a wonder how i got my papers. the part i seen was just a little valve joining the oil tank to the unit, brass fitting with a dial shaped nut on a left hand thread, just outside the pump bout 6 inches...cant get a pic at the mo am back at home and we have a different system to theres

Kensington

Sounds like you've got the right part alright - pic would allow someone to confirm. You'll need to open the bleed screw for more than a few seconds though! Try opening it up again, and leaving it for about 5 minutes, then try and fire the burner. Be ready to close the valve immediately though if the airlock clears! I'm sure you've done all the obvious checks already - no closed valves on the fuel line etc. etc.

If you're still not getting anything then have a look around the outside of the boiler area itself, specifically the fuel line to the burner - there should be a valve, close to the boiler, fitted to the line coming from the tank (ie. line comes in from outside -> valve -> feed to burner). This basically acts as a way of isolating the fuel inside the house. If you don't have such a cut-off (although you should really) DON'T attempt the following!!!

Turn this valve off completely, get yourself a bucket and a few rags, and carefully disconnect the oil line from the burner pump unit - make sure this valve is completely turned off. There may be a little oil in the length of pipe between the burner and oil valve so have the rags and bucket handy! Then, put the open end of the pipe into the bucket and slowly re-open the valve. The pressure of the oil in the tank should force the oil through the open end of the fuel line you now have created. Once the oil flows, turn the valve off and reconnect the fuel line to the burner oil pimp. You'll then need to finish off by bleeding the oil pump on the burner once more, firing the burner up to prime the oil through.

Make sure you reconnect everything tightly, turn the oil valve back on fully and check for any leaks after - kerosene spills stink!!!

If you're unsure of anything or not comfortable doing this, then get someone reputable in to do it for you. If anything, let it be an excuse to have the boiler fully serviced at the same time.

Southern Dandy

Kensington wrote: »

Sounds like you've got the right part alright - pic would allow someone to confirm. You'll need to open the bleed screw for more than a few seconds though! Try opening it up again, and leaving it for about 5 minutes, then try and fire the burner. Be ready to close the valve immediately though if the airlock clears! I'm sure you've done all the obvious checks already - no closed valves on the fuel line etc. etc.

If you're still not getting anything then have a look around the outside of the boiler area itself, specifically the fuel line to the burner - there should be a valve, close to the boiler, fitted to the line coming from the tank (ie. line comes in from outside -> valve -> feed to burner). This basically acts as a way of isolating the fuel inside the house. If you don't have such a cut-off (although you should really) DON'T attempt the following!!!

Turn this valve off completely, get yourself a bucket and a few rags, and carefully disconnect the oil line from the burner pump unit - make sure this valve is completely turned off. There may be a little oil in the length of pipe between the burner and oil valve so have the rags and bucket handy! Then, put the open end of the pipe into the bucket and slowly re-open the valve. The pressure of the oil in the tank should force the oil through the open end of the fuel line you now have created. Once the oil flows, turn the valve off and reconnect the fuel line to the burner oil pimp. You'll then need to finish off by bleeding the oil pump on the burner once more, firing the burner up to prime the oil through.

Make sure you reconnect everything tightly, turn the oil valve back on fully and check for any leaks after - kerosene spills stink!!!

If you're unsure of anything or not comfortable doing this, then get someone reputable in to do it for you. If anything, let it be an excuse to have the boiler fully serviced at the same time.

Cheers bud wont be going at it now till thurs/fri cos there away and theres no panic with it at the moment, ill keep you posted anyways sound for all the advice, id buy you a pint if i could ha!