How's this for accuracy?

.50 (MOA)

Here's a few I took earlier, they show, what I think, is all that can be shown in a picture.







bolt handle out for semi auto mode



bolt handle pushed in for bolt action mode









bolt handle out- semi auto (bolt/ firing pin components only)




bolt handle pushed in- botl action mode (bolt/firing pin components only)

ivanthehunter

Wow! some great photos there!! Thanks very much for posting them all!
I have been looking on the net for some time for photos such as those but I'm probable just not looking in the right place!

It seem that when in bolt action mode the simple through bolt slots in to the far side of the action! Yes! But it doesn't look as if it put any positive pressure on the rifle bolt so as to cause a secure bolt face/breech face union!
It seem that the rifle bolt could still in theory be allow to move by some small amount depending on the amount of ware in the slot/hole in the receiver!

Regards Ivan

rrpc

.50 (MOA) I see you have a sling on the rifle. You should use that as your rest as it will give you all the support and steadiness you need in any position.

.50 (MOA)

got out this evening to do some hole punching

heres the latest results

these were shot prone with winchester super X SUBSONIC at 25m and 50m (measured with a tape) with the rifle resting on my fist and the but resting on the ground. care was taken over each shot without rushing it and squeezing the trigger gently (so gently i could feel it moving a small amount sometimes without going off (creep i think this is called????))

MOA meaurement is made by drawing a line between the centres of the two farthest apart holes and drawing a circle to ensure it encompasses all of the shots. measuring the diameter of this circle and multiplying by 4 (for 25m) or 2 (for 50m) and dividing by 25.4 (mm/inch)

just under 3MOA for the first target was the best i got
then shot two 50m targets and was nearly twice as wide but brought it back to 3.46 MOA for the final 50m target.

foxshooter243

.50 (MOA) wrote: »

got out this evening to do some hole punching

heres the latest results

these were shot prone with winchester super X SUBSONIC at 25m and 50m (measured with a tape) with the rifle resting on my fist and the but resting on the ground. care was taken over each shot without rushing it and squeezing the trigger gently (so gently i could feel it moving a small amount sometimes without going off (creep i think this is called????))

MOA meaurement is made by drawing a line between the centres of the two farthest apart holes and drawing a circle to ensure it encompasses all of the shots. measuring the diameter of this circle and multiplying by 4 (for 25m) or 2 (for 50m) and dividing by 25.4 (mm/inch)

just under 3MOA for the first target was the best i got
then shot two 50m targets and was nearly twice as wide but brought it back to 3.46 MOA for the final 50m target.

Thats about right for that rifle I reckon , used one before and it gave pretty much the same results:)

ivanthehunter

are you taking your time between shots? I know 22lr subs are not running too hot but this might give some consistency.

Did you test you scope for faults?
Did you even try and bed your guns action?

Try this out of badness, Get some cigarette box paper or similar and fold up one or two small bits so as they fit under the action of your gun and they touch the timber in the stock. Try and place them (paper bits) that they might remove any chance of even movement of the action in the stock.

I suppose a bit of trial and error might be needed;)

Also try a good cleaning solution, especially when you consider the fact that you used #12shot :eek:

i don't know if you have access to a vise but it might be help full if you clamped you gun in one and tried adjusting you scope to see if it zero is moving. Be sure you go easy with the vice and do not bend or crimp the barrel. tbh it might be best to clamp it closer to the action.

The above testing and modifying should only take an hour or so!

regards Ivan

rrpc

Try using the sling instead of resting it on the ground. What you do is (if right handed) put your left elbow through the sling from the left side, catch the sling on the left side of your elbow, pull it to the left until it is almost tight then slip your left hand around the sling near the fore end in a corkscrew motion and place your hand under the fore end. The sling should now go from the butt of the rifle, around the outside of your left elbow, back over your wrist, under the back of your hand and then to the sling swivel at the fore end.

It sounds complicated, but if you have the length of the sling adjusted right and get the hang of it, it's very quick; done all in one motion, and provides a very stable platform and support for your rifle in any position.

LB6

a pic of what RRPC just described! Single version!

rrpc

LB6 wrote: »

a pic of what RRPC just described!

That's actually a single point sling LB6, here's a pic of a two point sling:

.50 (MOA)

o.k. been working on the targets and the best yet is 2.13 MOA at 50m with dynamit nobel subsonics.

just a couple of questions on sighting

as the cross hairs sit on the target they obviously move about a small amount due to small muscle twitches, heartbeat, breating etc. does the magnitude of this movement bear any relation to how much you miss by? for instance i an aiming at a 1" dot, but the crosshairs would be moving about over an area of about 1/4" or less, does this movement add 1/8" in each direction or can it add much more?

if the rifle was able to put all the rounds through 1 hole if it were clamped in a vice (improbable but as a generalisation), would this 1/4" diameter of movement make the group 1/4" bigger when i use it

i think this explains what i'm trying to find out




if the view in the sight is not being viewed as centrally as possible, in what direction will this cause a miss.


i.e. if my eye is to the left side of the scope, whilst still having a sight picture. as opposed to finding the most central image i can find. will i miss right or left? the same would hold for up/down as well. this is to do with parralax isn't it

thanks lads

.50

fiestaman

lad i got HV ammo for my CZ cci and yellow jackets and at 75yrds they wont group inside 2.5'' maybe 3'' and the odd flyer. im gone back to subs now. if i were you id go to subs and stick with them but like clivej posted you should be able to put subs inside 1.5'' atleast at 50m and if your used to a gun and confident 1.5'' out to 80yrds should be no problem. if subs are not an option for you then buy a .17hmr and shoot 1'' group out to 120yrds and further.

Have a read of this about high velicoty.
http://www.riflesintheuk.com/rimfire.htm

this is just my opinion

Cass

Sticking this in here to continue on the same theme rather than start an unneeded new thread.

Was out on the weekend and was testing difference batches of ammo with the tuner on. Finally got the rifle shooting tight groups.

These were shot at 50mtr in an 8-10 kph left to right (8 O'Clock) breeze. Its a 5 shot group. Measuring 7mm.

shanmoll308

:eek: Well now I know you can shoot bud..now all you have to do is read the wind!!

Shanmoll308

Cass

But thats why i shoot beside you all the time.......:D

Now if i could only get you into the 50mtr range for an hour..................;)

ivanthehunter

Ok seeing as i suspected the bedding was the main issue for this 22 rifle i decided to place my own 22lr action in to a stock with as little bedding as possible!!
#Basically it resting on the flat at the front and resting on one point at the rear...
All the groups opened up wildly.. At 100yards i was even missing A4 paper with hyper velocity stuff:eek: and subs were forming 2-3 inch groups at 50 yards:eek:

Now before i changed to this stock i was getting 3" groups at 135yards with subs and its a semi auto!:)

So above all i would say that an ill fitting action in any stock is the number one accuracy killer IMO..
or perhaps a loose barrel;)

Glensman

ezridax wrote: »

Sticking this in here to continue on the same theme rather than start an unneeded new thread.

Was out on the weekend and was testing difference batches of ammo with the tuner on. Finally got the rifle shooting tight groups.

These were shot at 50mtr in an 8-10 kph left to right (8 O'Clock) breeze. Its a 5 shot group. Measuring 7mm.

Can you define tuner for me?? :rolleyes:

poulo6.5

clivej wrote: »

I'm by no means good at the target shooting and these targets were shot not long after I got to a range with my CZ Style 22lr. All @50m.
Brookes trigger kit is fitted. Eley subs. 12mm center black bull.

5 shot groups


10 shot group


HV rounds still usung the bull as my aimpoint



CZ Style then



CZ Style NOW. Piller bedded, deeply free floated by 4mm all round and only 1 action screw.

good results . have you ever tried winchester subs. i have a style and i get great results with them.

how do you find it now that you have some work done . and is it ok to have only one screw holding the action.

clivej

poulo6.5 wrote: »

good results . have you ever tried winchester subs. i have a style and i get great results with them.

how do you find it now that you have some work done . and is it ok to have only one screw holding the action.

Tried the Win subs but as with all the different ammo I always come back to the Eley and Lapua subs, can't beat them in this little rifle. Just the standard €4.50 a box stuff.

A lot of the yanks use just the one action screw. As they find using the front action screw will pull the barrel down.
Good CZ rimfire forum here
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18

My CZ Style is ,well to me anyway, about as good as it will get with the jobs done on it. Shoots 1/2" groups @50m and I'm able to hit the rabbits @120m.

Cass

Glensman wrote: »

Can you define tuner for me?? :rolleyes:

Sorry i call it that for short. Its a barrel harmonics tuner. By adjusting the weight on the tuner forward or back i can manipulate the harmonics of the barrel and tighten up a group if using untested ammo (ie. not batch tested). It can be useful but if i'm using my normal ammo i don't bother with it. They come in all shapes and sizes and have a measurement scale on it (like a scope) so i can record what setting suits what ammo.

Something like these...............

Glensman

ezridax wrote: »

Sorry i call it that for short. Its a barrel harmonics tuner. By adjusting the weight on the tuner forward or back i can manipulate the harmonics of the barrel and tighten up a group if using untested ammo (ie. not batch tested). It can be useful but if i'm using my normal ammo i don't bother with it. They come in all shapes and sizes and have a measurement scale on it (like a scope) so i can record what setting suits what ammo.

Something like these...............

So then when you go hunting do you leave it on??

Cass

Not a hunter, too heavy. Pure Benchrest rifle.

dCorbus

Oh Ezridax would never bring the .22 hunting with him!:D

It's a pure thoroughbred .22 benchrest rifle through and through - The best around? Perhaps?;)

Apart from the fact it would be a tad heavy to lug up and down hills and vales of an evening!:D:D:D;)

(Edit: Posted mine before ezridax posted the pic - Ooops I did it again)

Cass

dCorbus wrote: »

Oh Ezridax would never bring the .22 hunting with him!

Its too bloody heavy.............seriously......i've seen spots just bringing it onto the range.

Glensman

ezridax wrote: »

Its too bloody heavy.............seriously......i've seen spots just bringing it onto the range.

Just seen the pic! I'm a big guy, but I wouldnt fancy luggin that yoke aorund after rabbits!

Nice piece of equipment!!!

dCorbus

From Car to Pool Table.....Stop for Coffee & a breather.....Out the door, Get to the bench......Coffee & a Breather......Unpack Rifle & Lift onto Bench.....Coffee & a Breather....etc.....etc.:D:D:D

Fire 5 Shots......Coffee & a Breather.....Pack Up.....Coffee & a Breather.....Home for Dinner

Ah, yes, those glorious days spent on the range with ezridax!:D:D:D:rolleyes:

Cass

You forgot the coff..............................nevermind, just spotted it.











PS - You heading on Sunday?

dCorbus

of course!;)

ivanthehunter

ezridax wrote: »

Sorry i call it that for short. Its a barrel harmonics tuner. By adjusting the weight on the tuner forward or back i can manipulate the harmonics of the barrel and tighten up a group if using untested ammo (ie. not batch tested). It can be useful but if i'm using my normal ammo i don't bother with it. They come in all shapes and sizes and have a measurement scale on it (like a scope) so i can record what setting suits what ammo.

Something like these...............

Does it thread on to the barrel?? and what sort of cash would a standard unit cost?

Cass

No. You slip it down over the barrel and tighten 2 allen key headed screws. Simple enough. The company that makes mine is Lowey. Not sure on price. Bought as part of a package deal. Must check it out for you.

Tackleberrywho

dCorbus wrote: »

Hard to get the head around all this info, I know, .50(MOA)!:D

Do you have anyone experienced who can work with you on this? It's often very difficult to spot the sometime very minor mistakes one is making and the equally minor adjustments you may need to make.

If at all possible, find someone experienced and skilled who you can practice shoot with. Are you a member of a rifle club or range? If so, you should be able to get lots of useful (and some not so useful!:rolleyes:) advice there.

Trigger pull - Squeeze nice and gently in one motion, use the top or pad of your trigger finger. Make sure to follow through correctly - I find it useful to count to 3 after breaking the shot. It's a bit like golf in this way! Pull the trigger, keep your position, and count to 3 before you lift your head.



A good steady front resting position is essential. A good heavy sand bag with good resistance should help. Get a bipod if you can or a proper front rest - Although if you're going to shooting "in the field" a bipod will prove to be a good longterm investment.



Make sure your rifle is in a steady position, vertical, and cannot move, slightly loosen the scope rings, and rotate the scope slightly until the reticle is aligned correctly, then slowly tighten the scope rings. (If theres a better of method doing this, the lads here will tell you!:D) Get an experienced shooter to do this for you if you are unsure yourself. Make sure the rifle and scope are boresighted and zero'd.



I would suggest 25m and 50m as your distances. Not sure where the 68m distance is arising.?

Take all the time in the world for each shot (Another little mistake of mine!:o) - It's not a race!:D

And again, best of luck with your practice!:)

(Oh yeah, BTW I'm a novice myself so this is just me reiterating advice I've been given recently - any and all mistakes are my own - and there are a lot more far more experienced and skilled shooters on here than me - so take their advice!:D)

Chin up Sir, I had a Krico SA BA. Most Inaccurate rifle I ever owned, even with TenX.
Anschutz make some of the best .22lr Bolt action rifles in the world, Sako are not bad either.
CZ are ok too, if they look cheaply made.
I had a Ruger 10/22 more accureate than Krico even with a 16inch barrel!
Not Olympic standard though but pretty ok. If yuo weigh your rounds on a scales you will see weight variations in all cheap ammo, some HP you will see are not hollow, Yellow Jacket and Stinger esp. But if you want to kill bunnies and the odd fox they are the bizz.

I shot 4 foxes stone dead with stingers with my Ruger 10/22 and stingers.
No point buying better scope for that rifle. The rifle was intended for quick shots not picking your shots.

If you like S/A I'd get a 10/22 with a heavy barrel, best compromise
Either that or get a bolt action.
http://www.parts4ruger1022.com/ruger_10-22_Accessories/product/10-22_SS_Match_Barrel-Comp.html