German Shepherd attacking vans

Paul91

OK - bit of a new development here, wondered if anyone else had experienced it, as a lot of you know i took a German Shepherd out of the CSPCA in August, in September she had 6 pups (we think the dad is a Newfie - weighed the big fella last night at 9 1/2 weeks he's 11kg), now I've been out walking her regular again for about 4 weeks, but in the last week she has taken to trying to attack vans as they drive past, interestingly when they are at speed, not when they slow down (I'm on back country roads) she never did this previously, so wondered what triggered it, one thing maybe was getting soaked by a van and a car speeding through puddles over the last week of rain? you think this could trigger it?

peasant

Never mind what triggered it (could be anything really) just make sure to nip it in the bud. Have her walk on your inside, keep an eye and ear open for potential triggers and make sure she understands not to lunge at them.

If this habit is left to develop there will be a day when she pulls you (and herself) under a speeding van

Paul91

peasant wrote: »

Never mind what triggered it (could be anything really) just make sure to nip it in the bud. Have her walk on your inside, keep an eye and ear open for potential triggers and make sure she understands not to lunge at them.

If this habit is left to develop there will be a day when she pulls you (and herself) under a speeding van

cheers peasant - have to keep ears and eyes open anyhew as no paths at the start of my walk, will be keeping close eye on her also as don't want this habbit developing, cos even at 21st if she pulls when i'm not aware on wet or further into the winter ice it could be dangerous, she's a big girl now, got her at 68lbs she weighed in at the vets last night at 88lbs (that's gain of 20lbs in 4 months and have'n given birth to six pups and feeding them)

gypsygirl

Hi Paul91, I had a problem with my doberman lunging at cars vans, etc. I brought him to a busy road and made him sit while traffic went by, at first he tried the usual lunging but eventually calmed down, it took several trips and at the start of each one he'd do the usual lunge at the first few vans, but now he's grand and doesn't bother with them at all. Sounds like your girl thinks she's protecting you, expose her to traffic as much as possible and she'll become so accustomed to it that she'll relax, good luck.

Paul91

cheers gypsygirl - will try that out (maybe when it's stopped raining so i don't get splashed)

speaking of which - any one else getting soaked by careless drivers in this weather?

CookieMonster.x

Paul91 wrote: »

OK - bit of a new development here, wondered if anyone else had experienced it, as a lot of you know i took a German Shepherd out of the CSPCA in August, in September she had 6 pups (we think the dad is a Newfie - weighed the big fella last night at 9 1/2 weeks he's 11kg), now I've been out walking her regular again for about 4 weeks, but in the last week she has taken to trying to attack vans as they drive past, interestingly when they are at speed, not when they slow down (I'm on back country roads) she never did this previously, so wondered what triggered it, one thing maybe was getting soaked by a van and a car speeding through puddles over the last week of rain? you think this could trigger it?

Not sure what could have triggered it, but you should stop it now. I have used water on my dog to stop him scratching the doors and it really worked. Just bring a bottle with some water and a spray top like a window cleaners and whenever he goes to attack it spray him and shout no and keep walking. You don't have to spray too much, my dog stopped after 1 actual spray when I shouted no, he walked out to the back hall and hasn't done it since.

Seriosuly, it works

boardbrowser

maybe invest in a halti or some other type of head collar to at least give you more control in terms of managementyour dogs behaviour.
Secondly, teach a solid 'sit and watch cue'- sit and eye contact with you when cars are going by. It's incompatible with lunging at cars. THis behaviour is probably displaced predatory behaviour and this hard wired programme surfaces more in certain types of breeds- border collies being a prime example of car chasing culprits.

hunterwelly

I want to second gipsygirl's solution. Get the dog to sit whenever traffic is about to pass by. Make the dog hold the sit till the traffic is passed, then reward and release the dog.

If you haven't already done so, you may need to work on training a good reliable sit. If you make it a routine on your walks, and reward the dog for not breaking the sit, you'll get it sorted in no time.

Paul91

coolio - thanks guys - will try to put them into practise, although i don't have the free hand for the water spray as that's got Tyson (Lab/boxer) in it - besides in the rain not sure a spray will do much?

peasant

No need for water, simple training and repetition will do.
"Sit" on command is a neat solution for the problem, however it can be cumbersome or even counter-effective if you're walking on a busy and dangerous road and rather get off it quickly than "sit" every 10 seconds.

In that case just keep the dog inside and close (very short leash) and tell her "no" before she lunges and praise when she doesn't.

Rinse and repeat

hunterwelly

CookieMonster's spray suggestion is basically negative reinforcement to interrupt unwanted behaviour. It can be very effective, but timing is very important. For best effect, the spray has to happen at precisely the moment the dog starts thinking about lunging. He has to believe that it was his own lunging behaviour that caused the spray, and not that it came from you.

You might not need to do something like this. Put the dog in a sit as the van approaches, and be ready to block the dog with your body (safely - mind the van!) the second she looks like she's about to break the sit.

If she starts to break, jump in and block her, and command SIT again. Don't shout, but be firm. Make her understand that you're serious about this whole sitting thing. When the van passes, reward her with a treat and carry on walking. You might also put her in a sit, and stand in front of her from the beginning, so you don't have to jump in to block her.

Do this for all traffic, not just vans. You'll get more repetitions in that way, and it'll help get the point across by establishing a new routine.

lrushe

Can you get any footage of the type of traffic that sets her off, you can play it for her to get her desensitised to the sights and sounds of traffic, it can also be played in the background as you train her to help her focus on you even while there is pseudo 'traffic' is around.
What collar are you using to walk her?
Have you enrolled her in obedience classes?

dmy1001

I too would go with gypsygirls advice. I know my female GSD did the same thing and responds far better to positive reinforcement than negative. GSD's have a high drive to please and i found with +ive reinforcement i got the message through far quicker and happier for me and the dog than with -ive.

Paul91

lrushe wrote: »

Can you get any footage of the type of traffic that sets her off, you can play it for her to get her desensitised to the sights and sounds of traffic, it can also be played in the background as you train her to help her focus on you even while there is pseudo 'traffic' is around.

will try that

lrushe wrote: »

What collar are you using to walk her?

she was on the leather collar until that was utlilised for the dreaded "cone" - she had a couple of sists removed. So she's now back on the "choke chain" and i know a few people on here are not keen on them but i ahve used them on the rescue dogs i have had over last 20 years until i am comfortable that i have them under control

lrushe wrote: »

Have you enrolled her in obedience classes?

not yet - only had her a month before she gave birth to six pups who are 10 weeks on Thur

lrushe

Paul91 wrote: »

will try that



she was on the leather collar until that was utlilised for the dreaded "cone" - she had a couple of sists removed. So she's now back on the "choke chain" and i know a few people on here are not keen on them but i ahve used them on the rescue dogs i have had over last 20 years until i am comfortable that i have them under control



not yet - only had her a month before she gave birth to six pups who are 10 weeks on Thur

I'v used choke chains also when needed but as your dog is a 'puller' she may be immune to its effects, also it would be hard for you to give her the 'check' she would need while straining on the leash, have you had a look at head collars, I think they may suit your dog more.
Also when she is over having her pups I would look into getting her in to an obedience class, they can give you suggestions taylored to your dogs needs, sometimes the suggestions are so obvious I wonder how I didn't think of it myself but someone can have a fresh prospective on things!

Paul91

lrushe wrote: »

I'v used choke chains also when needed but as your dog is a 'puller' she may be immune to its effects, also it would be hard for you to give her the 'check' she would need while straining on the leash, have you had a look at head collars, I think they may suit your dog more.
Also when she is over having her pups I would look into getting her in to an obedience class, they can give you suggestions taylored to your dogs needs, sometimes the suggestions are so obvious I wonder how I didn't think of it myself but someone can have a fresh prospective on things!

i do find the choke works to be honest - i don't allow her to continuosly pull so the quick check pulls her into line - i tried a halti but by the time i got her and the other fella out the gate and the Cairn in the front door she's chewed through it - she pulled it with her paw as i was getting the Cairn in (bit embarassing as a neighbour had lent it to me ;o) )

will definatly be doing the classes

peasant

You could save yourself and the dog a lot of anguish if you walked and trained her seperately from the others until this issue is sorted.

(worst case scenario is that in no time at all you'll have two or three lungers on your hands)

Paul91

peasant wrote: »

You could save yourself and the dog a lot of anguish if you walked and trained her seperately from the others until this issue is sorted.

(worst case scenario is that in no time at all you'll have two or three lungers on your hands)

thought about that, but had the other fella nearly 4 years now and he's fine, too be honest i kept and eye on her tonight and there where only two times she looked like she was about to go, quick pull before she got chance and all was OK - so we'll just keep going with that for now

also if i walked them seperate i would soon be seperated - and exhausted

peasant

Paul91 wrote: »

i kept and eye on her tonight and there where only two times she looked like she was about to go, quick pull before she got chance and all was OK

Phase out the pull and replace with "NO" or "AHH-AHH" and you're there ...but stay vigilant and repeat if necessary

Paul91

peasant wrote: »

Phase out the pull and replace with "NO" or "AHH-AHH" and you're there ...but stay vigilant and repeat if necessary

yep - she gets the verbal warning also - cheers for the advise - we'll see how we go

peasant

The trick is that they know that you know (what is going through their head) before they know ...impresses them no end and works far better than choke chains.

also sharpens your understanding and "reading" of your dog

Paul91

ye - it works on the OH as well