Opening up fireplace to accomodate stove

ATC110

I intend removing an open fire and installing a wood burning stove in the near future. The fireplace opening (recess) will need to be increased in size in order to accomodate a stove so a longer lintel will need to be installed higher up than the existing one and then the lower one removed. This will facilitate increasing the height and width of the opening.

The chimney consists of an 8" clay pipe flue with a flue gather at the bottom. The flue gather would need to be removed in the enlargement process but I've been told that it is load-bearing and cannot be removed. Likewise, I've also been told that it can be removed as it is very
unlikely that the clay flue pipes would collapse and should be self
supporting. Worst case scenario, a couple of pipes might dislodge but this
would not matter as the flue would be rendered obselete when the flue liner is installed.

The lintel is separate to the flue gather and it doesn't seem to be in direct contact with the front of the flue gather so I don't know what purpose it's serving.

I need to make a decision very soon and am concerned for obvious reasons. Both pieces of advice have been given on good authority so I'd be grateful for any opinions on this.

Attached are photographs

Cocoon

I'm no expert on this but as far as I know there is sand around the flue liners so if you remove the supporting gatherer not alone will the liners drop you will have a 1/4 tonne of sand in the sitting room :eek:....

I could be wrong though. Just double check before you break out the kango..

gsxr1

It is hard to know. Both results could be correct.

your flu should have been backed up with a dry sand cement mix.

But. it could be just sand. It is possible to have 1/2 ton of sand fall into your gaff.

the head is easy to move.

ATC110

Thanks - any tips on moving the head would be welcome. Could a steel lintel be used?

reilig

ATC110 wrote: »

Thanks - any tips on moving the head would be welcome. Could a steel lintel be used?

Instead of opening up the chimney, could you not use a 90 degree flue pipe to connect the stove and leave the stove standing in front of the existing opening?? I have seen it done in a few places - stoves have been installed in front of existing fireplaces.

If you remove the head, you can be sure that the flue liners have been packed around with a mixture of sand and lime to prevent the heat from the liners cracking the blocks of the chimney and prevent fires. This will all fall down on top of you and the flue liners may come with it (but shouldn't).

From the last picture that you have shown, I personally would connect a 90 flue to the rear of my stove and then up into the chimney with a flue adapter. Rather than risk structural damage.

gsxr1

I would cut in the new head first. Using jacks if needed . Wait till the mortar set and then remove the old head after.

you should get a bricky to do it. there are plenty of them who would love a nixxer these days.

dont use a 90 on any stove. dangerous.

ATC110

gsxr1 wrote: »

I would cut in the new head first. Using jacks if needed . Wait till the mortar set and then remove the old head after.

Thanks - Could you expand please. How could jacks be used?

you should get a bricky to do it. there are plenty of them who would love a nixxer these days.

dont use a 90 on any stove. dangerous.

Perhaps so but I fancy a bash myself. If I did get a bricky do you know how much it would cost to do this and enlarge the opening?

ATC110

Another matter is the chimney- it's an 8 inch flue so with the 6 inch liner there will only be a 1 inch gap around it. I've been told and have seen in diagrams that this does not require insulation such as vermiculite.

Is this correct?

cnocbui

As Reilig suggested, could you not locate a stove with a rear exit flue in front of the fireplace opening and have it connected to the liner using 90 deg bend or T piece at the back of the stove?

This is what I did with my stove.

I am not sure vermiculite is an absolute requirement but I would still be inclined to use it even with a narrow gap as it will help to support the liner rather than have it entirely hanging from the top plate.

ATC110

Does anyone know if a resin fire surround is suitable for using with a wood burning stove? It will have 150mm clearance at the sides and 280mm clearance at the top.

cnagle

ATC110 wrote: »

Does anyone know if a resin fire surround is suitable for using with a wood burning stove? It will have 150mm clearance at the sides and 280mm clearance at the top.

It depends on the kw output of the stove and if it is sitting out under the surround or if it is well behind in a opening

cnagle

ATC110 wrote: »

Another matter is the chimney- it's an 8 inch flue so with the 6 inch liner there will only be a 1 inch gap around it. I've been told and have seen in diagrams that this does not require insulation such as vermiculite.

Is this correct?

No a flue reducer can be bought for this i think

cnagle

ATC110 wrote: »

Thanks - Could you expand please. How could jacks be used?





Perhaps so but I fancy a bash myself. If I did get a bricky do you know how much it would cost to do this and enlarge the opening?

I think you would want to be very experienced. I once heard someone doing this and they put a steel bar through the side of the chimney and the clay pots to support them above