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Sink S bend leaking

  • 29-12-2009 1:42pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭


    I have a leak from the S bend in the undersink drain system. Leak is from the compression joint from the S bend in to the downpipe. I have replaced the washers but it is still leaking. Is it normal to use a sealant with the washers or are they sufficient on their own? If so whats a good sealant?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,372 ✭✭✭steamengine


    makfli wrote: »
    I have a leak from the S bend in the undersink drain system. Leak is from the compression joint from the S bend in to the downpipe. I have replaced the washers but it is still leaking. Is it normal to use a sealant with the washers or are they sufficient on their own? If so whats a good sealant?

    Thanks

    I've used silicon mastic on a few occasions, either white or clear. It has to be given time to harden/cure before you use the sink. Wet your finger to smooth it off after application. You can apply it to the gaskets and around where the leak is evident as well. Just check the nut or bend is not cracked as well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 38 stillbornalive


    make sure theirs not to much strain on the bend as well, ie something pulling it away and that you have to try to force it in to position


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 672 ✭✭✭items


    makfli wrote: »
    I have a leak from the S bend in the undersink drain system. Leak is from the compression joint from the S bend in to the downpipe. I have replaced the washers but it is still leaking. Is it normal to use a sealant with the washers or are they sufficient on their own? If so whats a good sealant?

    Thanks

    PTFE tape will fix leaks on waste bends. You'll find the tape in big name DIY shops or plumbing suppliers.

    Undo the plastic nut, have it out of way. wrap PTFE tape around pipe, washer, thread, everywhere around the leaking joint, you can wrap tape loads of times.When you thread it all back together the PTFE tape will compress enough to fix the leak.

    Pipe work might be out of line, stressed etc, no amount of washers will fix an out of line, stressed waste fitting.

    Silicone sealant will give way eventually, it doesn't really take to plastic that well, it just peels off. You could try it but expect the leak to return again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Why dont you just replace the s bend. It would be a lot easier than all the bother and if they are fitted correctly no sealent is required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    Why dont you just replace the s bend. It would be a lot easier than all the bother and if they are fitted correctly no sealent is required.

    They're about 6 euro. There not designed to need silicone or ptfe as the rubber seal will stop any leak. It is likely the fitting as mentioned is stressed, or possibly not tightened enough. The new washer may not work because the fitting itself is probably not the same brand as the one being replaced so its possible that may be the cause too. Look for a McAlpine trap, they're the best by far.

    Its a one and a half inch "S Trap" you need.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,372 ✭✭✭steamengine


    items wrote: »
    Silicone sealant will give way eventually, it doesn't really take to plastic that well, it just peels off. You could try it but expect the leak to return again.

    Not if you apply it all the way round the pipe, it acts like a bandage.

    Anyway, Makfli you have three options - Repair 1 or 2, or Replace !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 672 ✭✭✭items


    Not if you apply it all the way round the pipe, it acts like a bandage.

    No bother, ever try using tech7? Some stuff, takes to plastic even wet plastic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    snyper wrote: »
    They're about 6 euro. There not designed to need silicone or ptfe as the rubber seal will stop any leak. It is likely the fitting as mentioned is stressed, or possibly not tightened enough. The new washer may not work because the fitting itself is probably not the same brand as the one being replaced so its possible that may be the cause too. Look for a McAlpine trap, they're the best by far.

    Its a one and a half inch "S Trap" you need.

    Sorry for correcting your dedication but its 1,1/4" on a bathroom sink 1.1/2" on a kitchen sink but I never use s traps but rather a bottle trap on a kitchen sink.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    Sorry for correcting your dedication but its 1,1/4" on a bathroom sink 1.1/2" on a kitchen sink but I never use s traps but rather a bottle trap on a kitchen sink.

    Correct. But i refer normally to the "sink" in the bathroom as a basin.. which is yea, smaller, but normally referred to as a pedistal trap (if using a pedistal of course)

    The bottle trap is grand for tight spaces, but doenst easily allow for any adjustment, like you would get of an S Trap, without taking a torch to the waste pipe


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,372 ✭✭✭steamengine


    items wrote: »
    No bother, ever try using tech7? Some stuff, takes to plastic even wet plastic.

    Will do, heard its good ok ! Always was a fan of liquid engineering !!! Innovation - the art of the DIY'er !!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 672 ✭✭✭items


    Sinks for washing dishes, basins in bathroom's, attic tank stores cold water, cylinder stores hot water.


  • Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭makfli


    Think the downpipe was a bit dirty, this is why it wasnt sealing with the washer. I cleaned it up with jif and refitted with a new washer and used ptfe as suggested. Seems fine now.
    Thanks for all the tips and help .


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