Filling loop on ferroli Tempra 30

Lawdie

Can anyone advise on this problem. I bled the upstairs radiators and now the boiler wont restart. Pressure reads at 0. The manual is of little use.

http://www.ferroli.co.uk/product_documentation/Domestic/Tempra_30_Installation.pdf

I'm trying to find the connections to the filling loop, there appears to be only brass connections.

Any idea how I can find these connections? I hardly think I'll find a plumber this evening!

Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ0GRxandC0&feature=player_embedded#

items

Hot press is where you should find most user valves, pictures of hot press might provide best answer.

Thats the sort of thing you should be looking for http://www.gasman.fsbusiness.co.uk/images/Fill_loop.jpg

Lawdie

Heres what I could see in the hot press.

Lawdie

and

Lawdie

gary71 wrote: »

Thats the sort of thing you should be looking for http://www.gasman.fsbusiness.co.uk/images/Fill_loop.jpg

But where should I look for it. Will the plumbing loop be there for me to just re-pressurise? Would it be in the attic?

Pic 1. Have someone in front of the boiler when refilling, bleed everything again while keeping he pressure around 1.5 bar, Gary.

Lawdie

gary71 wrote: »

Pic 1. Have someone in front of the boiler when refilling, bleed everything again while keeping he pressure around 1.5 bar, Gary.

Gary how do I refill? Where is the connections?
Is image 1 the filling loop?

Pic6, there is a groove for a screwdriver in a silly place at the top of the connection, place screw driver in there 3-9 turn so it's in line with the fitting 12-6 and fill make sure you turn it back to 3-9 or you can over pressurize, Gary.

Good luck getting a screw driver in there, welcome to my world:D

items

Since your heating is filled off mains water, few things worth considering, its a bit of a grey area in Ireland, but in some country's it's a requirement.

After you've filled system to required pressure, the mains filling loop you see there should be disconnected from mains water. Half the time I see them connected the wrong way, they are designed to have a non return valve @ heating side and ball valve @ mains water side. If its installed this way you can disconnect hose @ heating side, all by hand, no tools required.

Reason being, heating water is filled with all sorts of strange water, its possible for some back contamination to occur, heating water bacteria can travel back into mains water while permanently connected to mains water, the bacteria can travel through valves, open or closed along with NRV.

Next time you have a plumber round, takes only a few secs to mark pipes or wall to give identification of each valve in hot press. Ask to have em marked, comes in handy.

Lawdie

Hi Gary (& all),

got the system back working thank you, but the pressure is reading at 2.5 and not 1.5. How do I get this down?

With a bit of care, a bucket and towel you can release the pressure by bleeding the rads, Gary.

items

Lawdie wrote: »

Hi Gary (& all),

got the system back working thank you, but the pressure is reading at 2.5 and not 1.5. How do I get this down?

It's a bit high, it could settle back down after being heated then allowed to cool. I'd leave it be for the moment, turn boiler temp down a bit @ first use then observe pressure, once its doesn't go to far from 2.5 could be ok.

There is ways to remove to much pressure, before going that route would be happy to see pressure left alone for moment. Those boiler gauges are not highly accurate could be under 2.5.

If you do have to much pressure, you boiler will detect and do the reduce pressure business all by it's self.

It's never a good idea to let the blow off blow, if there is any cack in the system it may not close again fully, although they are used as a system drain point:mad:, good working practice would require you to replace any blow that has activated, these valves can start to left at 2.5 bar being fully open at 3 bar, a gas boiler can raise by over 0.5 bar when the pump kicks in and with the increase in heat, Gary.

Lawdie

I'm trying to drain off the nearest rad, one bucket full down and no movement on the pressure (2.5).
Also the light has gone out and an indicator is flashing (Central heating stand-by (Flashing light)) as per the manual.

Do I just keep draining the rad? Do I drain multiple rads?

I would say the filling loop is still open:), you just have a big container, if you draw water off and it's not being replenished the pressure has to drop, Gary.

It doesn't matter which rad really but the best one has no carpet under it, as i said it's just one big container.

items

gary71 wrote: »

It's never a good idea to let the blow off blow, if there is any cack in the system it may not close again fully, although they are used as a system drain point:mad:, good working practice would require you to replace any blow that has activated, these valves can start to left at 2.5 bar being fully open at 3 bar, a gas boiler can raise by over 0.5 bar when the pump kicks in and with the increase in heat, Gary.

True, min is stated in bar along with max, some can run no bother @ 2.5. Had this case before, got a call along same lines as above. Same again pressure boiler set to high, asked to have pressure checked in hp, I remember the system having gauge @ filler. Gauge @ hp was only tipping on 2. By time all was done, checked back on boiler pressure, was sitting perfect @ 1.5.

Looks like fillers still open here, flat head should be horizontal to fitting almost at 90 degrees for off, any little either way will still have valve opened.

Lawdie

gary71 wrote: »

I would say the filling loop is still open:), you just have a big container, if you draw water off and it's not being replenished the pressure has to drop, Gary.

Gary you were so right. Some fool (namely me) did not return it correctly to the 3-9 position. The rad bled off quickly and it appears to of stayed on.
No winter here, yeh.

Thanks again for your help, and items (great tip). I don't think you will be taking me on as an assistant too soon!

Happy new year.