If not using auto mode what setting do you use and what do you change?

dinneenp

Hi,
When not using auto mode what mode do you shoot in (and for what type of shots) and what would you adjust?
I know it's a broad question but I'd like some examples...
Most people say they don't shoot in auto so I'm trying to get away from it and want to get some examples, tips etc.

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Below info added after many replies:
I'm using a Panasonic FZ28 and Canon S90, just in case that's relevant...

What I'm trying to understand is why don't people use auto or P?
Obviously if I want motion blur I'd use shutter priority, dofield aperture priority etc.

If I'm taking a pic of a (just as examples) wall, a building, landscape, my bike etc why isn't auto a good setting?
Is it that it's bad at judging the settings, if there's shadow etc?


Cheers,
Pa

kensutz

Shoot manual and change everything as necessary. Even for sports I use manual.

Sleepy

If I've the time, full manual. If I'm in a rush Aperature Priority or occasionaly if the occasion calls for it Shutter Priority.

Paulw

Like Ken, I also mostly shoot manual.

But, when learning, try shooting in Av (Aperture Priority mode). You select the aperture, depending on the subject, DOF, etc, and then adjust the ISO as needed too. The camera will then select the correct shutter speed to expose your subject.

I can honestly say that I've never used "Auto" on an SLR.

Covey

Heaven forbid, I use P a lot of the time (it's almost Auto).

If you're doing street photography for instance the last thing you need is to be fiddling with the camera dials and missing a shot. Generally you also operate in different lighting conditions for every second shot. Ocassionally I couple it with auto iso as well :eek:

Camera manufactures spend millions on these systems.

joeKel73

Use either Shutter or Aperture priority.

Use aperture priority to control the depth of field in the photo.
Use shutter priority to freeze action or show motion.

Once you're comfortable with both and realise how shutter and aperture interact (small aperture = longer shutterspeed, larger aperture = short shutterspeed)... then you can start using manual to control both.

ColmDawson

kensutz wrote: »

Shoot manual and change everything as necessary.

Same here.

CabanSail

It all depends on the enviroment you are shooting in & what you want to control.

My Body has PASM, the default walk around mode is P on Matrix Metering & Auto ISO. This will be ready for the Grab Shot which will be missed if you have to take time to select a mode & then settings. It allows you to make quick decisions on the fly, so you can Focus, Compose & Shoot very quickly. At the same time you can glance at the exposure settings in the viewfinder & see if they are about right & quickly adjust for speed or DOF with the slide of the right thumb. This gives control & speed so ticks a lot of boxes. Often I will think that a shot needs A or S (Av or Tv on Canon) but for a few frames leave it in P & just adjust to the desired settings & shoot. The Front Control gives me EV offset if that is required & the meter is being fooled, but also have a fair leeway in RAW as well.

If doing something where the DOF is the crucial factor then I will set to A (Av) and set up the shot for what I want. You still have to keep an eye on the Shutter Speed & ISO for the effects that they will have on the image. So for Landscapes typical settings would be A with aperture set to f16 - f22, focus about a third of the way into the scene, ISO 200. Likewise if the shutter speed is crucial to the composition then select S (Tv). For the Milky Water shots it would be 2 seconds & up, using ND Filters if necessary. To freeze action it could be 1/500th & if the light is low bump up the ISO but be careful as with a fast lens the DOF will be very shallow.

In the Studio it is Manual all the way & then control the lights. This is similar to the Sports Guys as they know their light & can keep things constant. From what I gather they mainly shoot with the lens close to Wide Open a lot of the time and have high shutter speeds as well. This means expensive fast glass & bodies that perform well at high ISO's.

Back when I was learning about exposure it was Manual all the time with a fixed ISO and Manual Focus. This was because all that was available was fully manual SLR's. The rich people had Motor Drives so they could waste more film. It makes you aware of what each setting does as when you stuff them up it still cost money.

Anyway .... that's how I work it. The best tool is to understand the effects & so you can "see" the exposure not just what comes through the viewfinder. This takes time & you learn from each mistake.

smelltheglove

Cabainsail has explained quite clearly there. I would use manual all the time. I have not ventured to anything else in over a year, I would recommend to anyone to learn manual, the more you get used to it the easier you can tell which settings suit different enviroments so if you leave the house and go into the garden after time you will know pretty much which settings you need to use for that. It will give you full control of any situation.

Barname

M

tullie

Best advice I was ever given, get to know your own camera inside and out. Pick one or two things you'd like to photograph and fiddle with all the settings, you might be surprised at the results.

Little Miss Cutie

I am very new to try to take good pictures as opposed to random pics and hoping for the best.

Is there a definitve book/ website I buy/use to give a good basis?

Honestly I don't understand any of the terminology used in this thread/ forum

Sorry if this has been asked before or if this is seen as hijacking the thread.

Mods : please feel free to move or delete.

Covey

smelltheglove wrote: »

It(Manual) will give you full control of any situation.

Manual is great but not in any situation. It might give you control, but thats not much use if you miss the photo

dinneenp

Little Miss Cutie wrote: »

I am very new to try to take good pictures as opposed to random pics and hoping for the best.

Is there a definitve book/ website I buy/use to give a good basis?

I bought Byran Peterson Understanding Exposure: How to Shoot Great Photographs with a Film or Digital Camera link here, based on several recommendations from boards.

Good photo terms/dictionary

some more stuff

DaireQuinlan

Aperture priority 90% of the time (when using a camera that actually has it :rolleyes: ) with exposure compensation when necessary. Manual when shooting with flash (although If I'm shooting with my nikon kit I'm normally using TTL flash so I guess that doesn't really count) so I can balance the flash with the ambient without fiddling around.

magicbastarder

i shoot 95% on aperture priority and 5% on manual.

sineadw

CabanSail wrote: »

It all depends on the enviroment you are shooting in & what you want to control.

Completely agree. Manual isn't always appropriate. It really depends on what you're shooting. I'd try AV or TV for a bit - get you used to the controls.

Ghost Train

depends on camera and lens too, has to be manual (or automatic) with some cameras if the camera doesn't have the option

DK32

AV & TV when you are learning or trying to work out what works for you.
Manual is great for giving you total control.
Auto for me was the first couple of months when I got my first DSLR (Canon 350D) and I didn't even know what half the modes on the camera were for. All I knew was that the camera was far more capable than my 3.1mp point & shoot & the rest I picked up along the way through lots of experimenting & reading

CabanSail

The choice of "Mode" really comes from a good understanding of Exposure.

What you choose then will be the mechanism which will give you those settings in the most convienient way.

Auto Modes are fine as long as YOU know what they are doing. Where they get Bad Press is when there is a lack of understanding on what is actually possible.

You can get ISO400, 1/125th Sec & f8 in any mode & the image will look exactly the same. It is knowing that is what you need & also that with the same light ISO100, 1/500th & f2 will give the same amount of light but a different image which is important. This has to be learned no matter which camera you will pick up & what mode it is set.

Hugh_C

What the heck is tv? Must be one of those Canon yokes

I'm mostly an A with a bit of M when I'm using strobe(s), my background is film and when I'm shooting 120, it's complete guesswork (or experience).

Paulw

Canon modes -

M - Manual mode
Tv - Shutter priority
Av - Aperture Priority
P - Program Mode

sineadw

Hugh_C wrote: »

What the heck is tv?.

Its the thing you work in. Big square box with fancy moving pictures...

ThOnda

Av 90% of time plus finger on EV correction wheel. I do focus on picture, not on controlling the camera. Boldly said, I trust that I know what is the camera going to measure. Aperture is the main creative control (for me).
I use manual when I have time - studio, tripod photos, difficult lighting situations, repetitive shots, panoramic shooting.

Freddie59

Originally when making the transition from a Bridge Fuji s5000 TO A 450d DSLR I tried auto. It was brutal under certain conditions. Bought Understanding Exposure (recommended on here) and shoot in M mode since.

Kazujo

95% Av, 5% manual when I'm using a flash

I've never used auto, P or Tv, on my digital SLR and my film camera has a very honest meter when shooting Av.

I always find cameras are too fond of pushing the ISO when shooting fully Auto

Creamy Goodness

[smug]CA mode[/smug] - :pac:

ahh no AV mode and if the shot requires it TV. If I'm doing long exposures using flash it's manual.