The Defender thread

101sean

Spent a most enjoyable 4 hours skinning knuckles this afternoon working on a 76 88" with my brother in law. We've dropped a 2.5 NA diesel in it and are doing all the wiring, linkages, changing bits that don't match, etc etc. Reckon another 4 - 5 hours will finish it :rolleyes:

Then I've got to fit new discs and pads and change the top LH swivel bearing again on my 110 :mad:

After that I need to find a new engine for the 101 and pretty much rewire the whole thing :eek:

Good job owners of 'cruisers, paj's etc don't look in this thread, they'd be really jelaous at the lengths we Land Rover owners go to keep ourselves amused

roman0red

landyman wrote: »

Arrrrgh the fanbelt whine is back to haunt me -.-


Must adjust it tomorrow


(cue skint knuckles and swearing :pac: )

I get that whinning noise ocaisionally - not sure if its the PAS belt though? When I turn the steerig wheel it will disappear or appear. It occurs only in the morning on start up - Any ideas?

Mycroft H

roman0red wrote: »

I get that whinning noise ocaisionally - not sure if its the PAS belt though? When I turn the steerig wheel it will disappear or appear. It occurs only in the morning on start up - Any ideas?

Yea sounds like the PAS pump belt. There separate to the the fanbelt and ran directly of the crankshaft on the Tdi engines

banjolin

Happy days. A Defender thread for Ireland. Good read. Thanks.

Forgive the perhaps naive question but what do you adjust when the fanbelt starts to whine. I had mine changed during a routine service but the whine is back again. I am reasonably handy with tools but know nothing about auto mechanics. Its an 05 Td5.

101sean

Hi and welcome.

There's no adjustment on a Td5 auxiliary drive belt, it has an automatic tensioner. How old is the belt? Easy enough to change but easier with two pairs of hands. pm me if you're in the Cashel/Thurles area.

banjolin

Thanks,

But probably can't pm as a newbie.

Based in South Tipp. Belt apparently replaced last spring during service as previous one was "a bit stiff" according to Central Garage. To be honest I'm a trusting sort so didn't check if anything was replaced. The whine never went completely but was much improved, however now its starting to whine regularly again.

This time I'd like to be able to check it myself, but I'm a bit of a plank with engines, especially diesels. Willing to learn though. Its a keeper and I'm hoping it will see me out, so I want to keep it in good nick.

Its an XS that I brought back from UK, with aircon, so there is a belt on that as well, I think. Probably not the issue though.

101sean

The knee freezer is driven off the same belt. Is it noisy all the time or just first thing in the morning? You could try some Belt Dressing from a motor factor. If that doesn't fix it, they may have used a cheap belt. Other possibility is the bearing on the tensioner.

I'll pm you

Slidey

Couple of questions about 08 Defenders..

Should the driveshaft yokes be inline on the shafts. Tested 2 yesterday where they weren't.

Also, ESB seem to have some 08's with double springs on the back, not sure if they are 130's but they are longer than the 110 and seem to have a section added into the chassis leg in the middle. Are these a special edition? Why do they not have ABS?

Caoimhín

Slidey wrote: »

Couple of questions about 08 Defenders..
Why do they not have ABS?

Is ABS standard on the 08 Defender?

101sean

Hi Slidey

The yokes on mine are in line and I think there's master spines so you can't get it wrong. I'll do some checking, it's possible things changed with the Puma engined ones.

130s have double rear springs as standard. When they first came out, Special Vehicles Operations took 110 chassis off the line and lengthened them to 127" (they still are 127, 130 just sounds better!) but now they come from the suppliers like that and are line built with 90s and 110s. The ESB ones will have been through SVO for the rear bodies probably.

ABS is an option on 90/110 but has never been available on 130s. I have it on my 110 but I think I have a CV joint going as it keeps popping the front left sensor out a couple of mm putting the warning light on. The front sensors go through the top kingpin and read off the serrated edge of the CV joint, makes changing the top bearing a real PITA.

Slidey

Cheers sean.

I would have imagined that they should be in line, it does not make sense that they are not.

I thought it strange that all the other 08s I had tested were fitted wit ABS but I now realised they were all 110s.

101sean

It's unusual to find ABS on any Defender unless it's a County or XS where it's standard I think, otherwise it's an expensive cost option few owners bother with unless they are safety conscious like the ESB. It acts as traction control as well, gets you in to waaaaay deeper trouble than with just the 4x4!

Very expensive when it goes wrong, wheel sensors are around €180, don't even ask about a modulator. I've known of owners just pulling the fuses or even removing it entirely.

Caoimhín

101sean wrote: »

don't even ask about a modulator. I've known of owners just pulling the fuses or even removing it entirely.

I presume the modulator is some sort of electronic device with a micro-chip. I wouldnt trust my Defender with a pocket watch under the bonnet.

101sean

No, it's the electro mechanical bit that pulses the brake circuits, it's controlled by it's own WABCO ecu which also talks to the engine ecu to vary the power. The engine ecu will only start the engine if the AS10 alarm is in a good mood and likes the key fob!

It's a sign of the times, mine has 3 ecus (4 if you count the fog lamp ecu), a modern Range Rover probably has a dozen or more on the CANBUS, good job they are very reliable and the diy gear to talk to them is cheap enough.

Slidey

Some speed demon thinks the CD can save him! Cable tied in so it can't fall out





Front diff from a 95 Defender, planet gears made it clean through the casing.

Are the outer drives supposed to be grease or oil filled or a bit of both??

O.A.P

EP-90 in the diffs and either EP-90 or one shot grease in the swivel housing. The grease is not as fast to leak out through hub or swivel seals.
I have never being pulled for speeding in the defender and I think even the guards would question the camera first.

roman0red

Hi Folks

An usual thing happened with my TD5 last Tuesday which I hoping you can assist with. It was the moring of the freezing fog (well it was in roscommon anyway!). Jeep started on first turn of the key - but did sound like it was only firing on 4 cycliners (slight splutter). A mile or so into my 12 mile journey it started to loose power - espeically driving uphill - like turbo was gone. Couldnt drive over 25mph and needed to drive in 3rd gear. Eventually got to a garage, switched it off and thought about what it might. Tried starting it - struggled to start, turned over a few times (unusual for this TD5, nornally starts with one turn of the key). Eventaully started and hey presto the miss-fire has mysteriously disappeared. I was back to full power and the problem has not appeared since (3days ago) I recall somethi similar happening pre-xmas in the very cold weather but it too "went away" and I forgot about it.
I'm concerned that its a warning sign for somthing more sinister thats about to go "bang"? I'm also thinking its something to do with the ECU system - the fact that its intermittent?
Any pointers would be much appreciated!

101sean

Could be several things, failing fuel pump (louder than normal recently?), dirty sensors, etc. As you say a TD5 should start instantly (unless it gets to minus 12 or so!)

Ideally you need to get it plugged in and faults read but check all the sensor plugs are on and clean.

roman0red

hi Sean - interestingly I do hear a peculiar "loud whining" noise in first gear when cold.
I guess I'll have to find a garage up this neck of the woods that has a ECU diagnostics machine. Will the diagnostics show historical data on the ECU?

Cheers

101sean

The ECU will log and retain old faults until they are cleared, generic readers should still read them but your better finding someone in your area with Testbook, Nanocom or Hawkeye. Come back with the fault list if you have trouble translating it. If you can, get the air flow figures at idle and higher revs.

A failing fuel pump will be distinctively noisy all the time, especially if the tank is low.

roman0red

101sean wrote: »

The ECU will log and retain old faults until they are cleared, generic readers should still read them but your better finding someone in your area with Testbook, Nanocom or Hawkeye. Come back with the fault list if you have trouble translating it. If you can, get the air flow figures at idle and higher revs.

A failing fuel pump will be distinctively noisy all the time, especially if the tank is low.

Thanks again sean
I'll set out in search of a test machine up this side. Interestingly, the fuel was very low that morning, I filled it up at the garage and the problem "went away" so it could be the fuel pump! Will an ECU diagnostics indicate a faulty (dying) fuel pump?

Anyone know if there is someone in North Ros/Sligo/Mayo or Leitrim with a Nanocom or Hawkeye?
Cheers

101sean

Could be the pump but it won't show up as a fault, need to test the fuel pressure by screwing a gauge in the Fuel Pressure Regulator (should be 4 bar). They don't like being run regularly low but we all do it :rolleyes: They tend to go around 80 -100k miles although I'm still on the original at 136k.

It's a tank out job to change it but some owners cut a hatch in the floor (you'll find the dimensions on LR forums), be careful not to break the pipe unions when you unclip them.

It could turn out to be one of those unexplained glitches but it knocks your confidence a bit!

O.A.P

If its been a while since the last time youve changed the fuel filter, thats where I'd start.

stock>

Sean don't forget the charge pump's internal filter.......maybe full of green-algae ****e..........................

banjolin

Hello,

Had to change a wheel this morning after the Mrs. came back with a huge thorn sticking out of the sidewall, which she then pulled out. Well at least she waited till she got home.

With the Defender jacked up I could see a lot more than usual and noticed signs of corrosion around in the undercarriage. Its six years old so it is inevitable but this is a lifer and I want to head it off.

Is Waxoyl the best/only option? Can it be done properly by an amateur, or is there anywhere that is recommended to do a pro job.

Also need new boots. Some thread left but General Grabbers rubber beginning to perish. Any recommendation for all terrains?

pd

101sean

There's a recent thread on tyres, have a look at the link in there but if you've any sense you'll go for BF Goodrich ATs.

Waxoyl is the well known product but there's better ones out there, notably Dinitrol. You'll need black for the outside and clear cavity wax for the inside, about 5-6 litres of each. Easiest is 1litre cans that thread on to a Schutz gun, you'll need a decent compressor. Get the chassis throughly clean and wear clothes you're prepared to burn, it is a truly disgusting job to do, the black sh1te goes everywhere! Don't do it on brick paved drive!

There's recent thread over on LRA where a couple of lads were offering to do it for a few beer tokens.

Caoimhín

I know a chap who swears blind that spraying the underside with diesel is the best.

Mind you, he usually has a few shandys in him when he says that.

banjolin

Spent too much time sniffing the diesel, I'd say.

Don't suppose anyone knows of a place in or near South Tipp that can do a jet wash on a 2 post lift?

101sean

There's a quite a few around that swear by diesel and old engine oil but that's not very environmentally friendly.

Caoimhín

101sean wrote: »

There's a quite a few around that swear by diesel and old engine oil but that's not very environmentally friendly.

I doubt the manufacture of the seal paint is very environmental friendly.

I must link the study, but MIT did a meta-analysis of the energy requirements for the construction of a Hummer and a Honda Prius, it turns out that the energy that goes in to building the body, batteries and equipment is, pound for pound, about the same as the Hummer.