The Defender thread

roman0red

101sean wrote: »

Thought I replied to this last night, must have forgotten to press the submit reply button :rolleyes:

Slidey has said which rod does what. The TRE on the draglink is RTC5869 and is RH thread. The one on the LH end of the trackrod is RTC5870 and is LH thread.

If there's no mark, get someone to waggle the steering wheel while you look at and feel the joint, should be obvious which one has gone.

Thanks - I've now established it is the one on the Draglink - which you say has a RH thread - the TRE I got from the motor factors has LH thead. Quntin Hazel QR2230S. Wish they were more specific at the DOE centre when they said left hand front Track Rod End. Waste of a morning.

Are both TRE's exactly the same - except one has a LH thread and the other a RH thread? Is one more difficult to fit than the other?

101sean

They are both removed and fitted the same way. When you refit the the TRE on the draglink, the length from centre of the drop arm ball jiont to the centre of the TRE should be 924mm.

Chuck the LH threaded TRE in the spares box, you'll need it some time :rolleyes:

Myself and the brother in law keep a spare set of wheel bearings, hub seals, TREs, filters etc, never know when you'll need them and saves a panic trip to the motor factors. Got a heap of other bits acquired in the past for long forgotten reasons, most LR owners will have the same

roman0red

101sean wrote: »

They are both removed and fitted the same way. When you refit the the TRE on the draglink, the length from centre of the drop arm ball jiont to the centre of the TRE should be 924mm.

Chuck the LH threaded TRE in the spares box, you'll need it some time :rolleyes:

Myself and the brother in law keep a spare set of wheel bearings, hub seals, TREs, filters etc, never know when you'll need them and saves a panic trip to the motor factors. Got a heap of other bits acquired in the past for long forgotten reasons, most LR owners will have the same

Thaks Sean - You're a bloody LR encyclopedia !:D

The measurement is interesting as when I measured it I got 94CM - guess it depends on wher you measured it from!

I've had to take the whole draglink arm off to untighten TRE. Its wellded.

Did an Oil change today also. Feela at the Motor Factors sold me Gulf semi Syn 5W40. Presume tahts fine?

101sean

Yes, that grade is fine.

Dunno about encyclopedia, just very sad! I do have RAVE CDs and microcat on both PCs and a library of Land Rover books as my memory isn't that good

O.A.P

I was trying to change the front pinion seal on the landrover this evening and after a couple of hours I had the propshaft off and the diff drained. Then I got as far as the the pinion bolt which is 15mm on mine but it seems to be set solid and after a half an hour of pulling and draging it got dark so I left it until tomorrow. Is it a left thread hand maybe? or should I just use a bigger prybar tomorrow?
Any help is welcome thanks.

101sean

No, normal thread. 15mm is a bit small, 19mm would be more like it, it's castellated nut with a split pin through it. I't's not super tight, done up 70 - 120lb.ft.

How to with photoss - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7903

Caoimhín

Hey Sean, im getting a set of spot lights fro my Defender, probably these lads;http://www.kchilites.com/lights/daylighter/daylighter-130-watt-driving-black/

Now, i was wondering if it would be possible to connect them to the headlights, as in so that they would come on when i put on my full beams?

In the same line, is there any bulbs i could buy that would brighten my lights without blowing their fuses? My lights seem to be very low (and yes, i have cleaned them )

101sean

They are a bit of a classic light. It's normal (and legal if bumper mounted) to switch them via a full beam triggered relay. How are you with electrics?

You need fairly substantial fused feeds and properly rated relays. You can get wiring kits but it's easy enough to do, I can probably link to a wiring diagram off another forum.

Defender headlights aren't the greatest are they! :rolleyes:

What's the state of the lenses and reflectors? Also the wiring connectors and earths?

New lenses are cheap, I have clear Crystal lenses on mine with standard H4 bulbs but there's lots of supposedly brighter bulbs around. Older defender's lighting can be improved by putting relays in the circuit, guarantees you are getting full voltage (and takes the load off the lighting switches).

If money is no object, you can get LED headlights now, only about £1500 a pair :eek:

I'll stick the links up anyway

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=46876
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59511
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49835&st=0&p=451366&hl=VW%20golf&fromsearch=1&#entry451366

O.A.P

101sean wrote: »

No, normal thread. 15mm is a bit small, 19mm would be more like it, it's castellated nut with a split pin through it. I't's not super tight, done up 70 - 120lb.ft.

How to with photoss - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7903

Thanks for that Sean I dont know why I did'nt see that myself I'm on that forum too.
Anyway job done, I used my torque wrench its the longest in the box and It did'nt break (I have a big collection of broken rachets) for a change.

Caoimhín

101sean wrote: »

How are you with electrics?

Seriously? I have trouble changing light bulbs.

O.A.P

Caoimhín wrote: »

Seriously? I have trouble changing light bulbs.

Fire is the trouble Caoimhin and it can start so quickly with wiring around an oily greasy engine. I have added a few lights and other stuff myself but I was very very careful and followed diagrams to the letter

Caoimhín

Thanks lads, I was looking at the light "pods" but they look a bit bulky. Anyone try them out?

101sean

I've not seen a drive flange held in by a bolt before, just checked Microcat and it looks like it's used on a HD 24 spline diff rather than the usual locknut. Still learning after 30 years!

O.A.P

101sean wrote: »

I've not seen a drive flange held in by a bolt before, just checked Microcat and it looks like it's used on a HD 24 spline diff rather than the usual locknut. Still learning after 30 years!

Stick with me Sean you will learn loads.:rolleyes::rolleyes::D:D:D

Caoimhín

Has anyone any experience with these WIPAC Crystal RHD Headlamps?

http://www.boltonbits.net/wipac-crystal-headlamps-with-pilot-p-106.html?osCsid=5d4c29e896ffa2ff1e015c57d2f42541

101sean

That's what I have on my 110, a good improvement. I'd be wary of that seller, I've bought from them but there's lots of dark muttering about them on other forums!

Most of the UK sellers like Paddocks do them, you want the ones without the pilot (sidelight) and I'd budget for replacing the entire headlamp bowl on an older vehicle, they are cheap anyway.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Electrics/Wipac_Crystal_Halogen_Headlamp_Conversion_Kit_(pair)_-_left_hand_dip_(UK_and_Australia).html
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Electrics/Plastic_headlight_bowl_with_all_fittings.html

Caoimhín

Right, to justify all this, i have worked bloody hard all year. Dont drink, smoke and havent been on holidays for 5 years.

Soooo, i am treating myself to a few upgrades for the Defender.

I could take f few before and after photos if you'd like?

Here it to start with; http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=LL1121B%2098ON

Oh, if anyone knows someone in Sligo/Roscommon/Leitrim who is good at electrics (spot lights etc) id be grateful for any help (im not looking for a freeby, if the work is good i have no trouble parting with beer tokens)

Kevin

Slidey

I am in Sligo but hate wiring!

I can pass you on the number of a fella who will probably do what you want.

Caoimhín

Slidey wrote: »

I am in Sligo but hate wiring!

I can pass you on the number of a fella who will probably do what you want.

Id appreciate that Slidey. Sligo? fancy a whirl on my new off road track some Saturday? Like i said, all are welcome.

Slidey

Don't think my mk4 Golf would appreciate that! Alloy sump is still shiny and new after my last excursion into the forest!

Pauric Coen is his name, I'll PM you his number

101sean

I'm probably going to change my scruffy steering wheel but will probably fit a genuine leather XS one if I can find one for a sensible price. Load of suppliers on ebay do those Momo ones.

When you order your steering wheel you need to know the number of splines on the column to get the correct boss, there's 48 and 36 spline, 48 is most common, 36 is usually fitted to Countys but that's not definitive.

A decent auto electrician shouldn't be too expensive and a wise investment if you're not confident, it's embarrassing when all the smoke escapes and your loom melts or worse!

Caoimhín

Slidey wrote: »

Don't think my mk4 Golf would appreciate that! Alloy sump is still shiny and new after my last excursion into the forest!

Haha, i know the feeling. I had a Golf for the first few years as a forester, i must have gone through 12 sumps and bumpers. Those machines are made for the autobann, not Ferbane.

Thanks for the number Slidey.

roman0red

So I past the DOE on the re-test ....I then sent the cert and TAX renewal form in to get my Road tax cert only for it to be returned with a form requesting it to be comleted by the guards stipulating I only use the jeep for my business/trade - not to be used fro social or domestic.

I had heard they were clamping down as a result of something Gormely had brought in when the Greens were in govt but I thought this was for new applicaants not for renewals?

Makes having a LANDY for social purposes V. expensive. Anyone else encounter the same?

Seanieke

roman0red wrote: »

So I past the DOE on the re-test ....I then sent the cert and TAX renewal form in to get my Road tax cert only for it to be returned with a form requesting it to be comleted by the guards stipulating I only use the jeep for my business/trade - not to be used fro social or domestic.

I had heard they were clamping down as a result of something Gormely had brought in when the Greens were in govt but I thought this was for new applicaants not for renewals?

Makes having a LANDY for social purposes V. expensive. Anyone else encounter the same?

Just taxed the 110 for the year, had to go into the tax office with :Big breath in: DOE Cert, Insurance Cert, Weight Cert (Wicklow), "Goods Use Only Cert & proof of being VAT registered!!

Got stopped before at 9 on a friday night by the fuzz & he was very snide when I told him I was setting out to the office to put in a few hours rather than getting up at silly o clock saturday morning. Wouldn't mind but I was in scruffy work clothes & all, not exactly dressed for a night out. The jacket I had on was branded & matched the van so he made me provide proof that the insurance on the van was valid for "weekend use" too!

101sean

Lots of discussion elsewhere, nothing new, existing rules just being enforced and Gormley denied it was anything to with him :rolleyes:

It varies from council to council what you get asked for and when, but the form is normal. The guards will sign it anyway, they couldn't care less and that may be enough to get the tax. If you get asked for a VAT number, try using your PPS number, other posters have got away with this apparently.

I have to pay the full whack with my CSW, over €900 a year :mad:

pebbledash

Hey all,

Minor change of tack, Just how long will a Landrover TDi or TD5 engine last? (with regular oil/filter changes)?
What are the indicators that they are 'expiring'
I had a 300TDi with well over 200K miles, it ran great (although a bit gutless) it made a big puff of black smoke when it started but none after that!
Thanks

LookBehindYou

Does anyone know anything about EGR valve cleaning on a 2008 2.4 defender ?. Problems with black smoke and very hesitant at low revs.

101sean

Both very long lived if properly looked after, 200-300k miles no problem.The ancillaries on Td5s rarely go wrong apart from starter motors. The in tank fuel pumps die at 80-90k miles although mine is still going at 140k.

A Td5 should fire instantly with no pre-heat and rev freely. If it feels gutless or hesitant it's most likely a failed MAF sensor, easy check is to unplug it (it's on the hose between the airfilter and turbo) and if there's an improvement, the MAF sensor is dead. Genuine ones are around €100

101sean

I've no experience of the 2.4 Tdci but you should find an answer here including info on how to do away with the egr.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/puma-tdci-vf19.html?sid=a7e7badf91bcafabf08d9d16ca8c9fec

Caoimhín

101sean wrote: »

That's what I have on my 110, a good improvement.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Electrics/Wipac_Crystal_Halogen_Headlamp_Conversion_Kit_(pair)_-_left_hand_dip_(UK_and_Australia).html
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Electrics/Plastic_headlight_bowl_with_all_fittings.html

Sean, apart from the price, what is the difference between tese teo sets of head lights;
http://www.firstfour.co.uk/general-lighting/angel-eye-headlights-for-defender-rhd-2013168-407474-593237.php £36.37 GBP

And

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ULTIMATE-Angel-Eye-Crystal-Headlamps-LandRover-Defender-/230592135289#vi-desc £99.99 GBP

What are pilot lights, are the small round "parking lights"

That is a big difference in price..

Also, there are xenon conversion kits, anyone tried them out?

Sorry about my obession with lights, its just that i drive narrow country lanes, drives amf forest roads in winter and the standard lights are crap (as the bits of sheep and deer antlers stuck in my grill )


Ooh ohh, never mind, ive found the babies for me, digital HID xenon headlights, USA made €199 inc postage


Quantity Item Price Estimate Shipping Total
1 High Beam (12000K) (Land Rover Defender, 2008, 1x - Include Battery Wire/Relay Harness, 1x - Upgrade to Digital Slim Ballasts, 1x - Upgrade to 3 Year Warranty) $131.96 $5.99 $137.95
1 12 LED Compact Strobe Light AD-86655 ( Amber, Land Rover Defender, 2008) $39.99 $4.99 $44.98
1 7 Inch Round Upgrade Headlights (Land Rover Defender, 2008) $59.99 $14.99 $74.98
Total: $231.94 $25.97 $257.91
Tax: $0.03
Discount: -$0.00
Total with Tax and Discounts: $257.94 (€199.00)