The Defender thread

101sean

You are correct, turbo and filter don't need removing They do if removing the water pump and that can be left in place by the look of it.

Cheapest pump I found was at LRseries for £129 + vat. The O ring you need is QYX100280

reefbreakbda

Hey Guys,

How legit do you think this 1977 Series III hybrid is.

http://cars.donedeal.co.uk/for-sale/vintagecars/2284768

Is it likely to be a Defender in a few Series III accessories.

The lady owner says she has had it a year only..hmmm


Let me know

Cheers...

101sean

That's been commented on another forum, did you notice the position of the cooling fan?!

Could be legit but I doubt it.

reefbreakbda

Thanks Sean,

Which other Forum was that on? I did see the Fan and just assumed it was extra cooling insurance.

Steve

101sean

www.4xforum.net All Ireland 4x4 forum

reefbreakbda

Thanks Sean, Found it. O:)

Shoudl I assume everyone from this Thread has migrated over to this forum?

caprilicious

101sean wrote: »

That's been commented on another forum, did you notice the position of the cooling fan?!

Could be legit but I doubt it.

I seen that too, is it legal to have something like that outside? Imagine the mess if a bird flew into it :eek::D

101sean

There's a few still here but there's more room for banter and chat on 4xforu that would clog this one up.

Pigeon Reaper

I'm considering to get a land rover series III LWB which is mechanically sound but needs some cosmetic work. Would I be crazy to do this?

101sean

If you are OK with mechanical stuff and it's a second vehicle then not at all :D

There are one or two owners who use them everyday but you have to be a true fanatic to do that!

Very simple to work on and spares are plentiful. Shop around and get something unmolested, plenty of messed up dogs and things that aren't what they claim to be out there.

Pigeon Reaper

I've seen some funny ones alright. I'm thinking galvanised chasis is a must on them. It would be a third vechicle for nasty weather and towing the odd small boat around. Also I expect it to be a good project.

101sean

If you are lucky you may find one on a galvanised chassis but you'd be paying top dollar for it. Unfortunately most Series 3s were built when the car industry was using crap steel so they can be pretty poor. A well repaired and waxoiled one would be a good buy, alternatively it's not that hard to put a good body on a new chassis. A new galvanised chassis is around £1000 from Marsland or Richards Chassis, add a galvanised bulkhead and you have a vehicle for life.

O.A.P

My 110 has failed the DOE on a corroded break line, the long one from the front to the back . Has any of ye replaced this before ? It looks like it will be difficult to put the new one back in, in one piece or take the old one out without breaking it.
I hope to get a local garage to make up the new pipe for me when I get the old one out. Any advice is welcome.

Rovi

O.A.P wrote: »

My 110 has failed the DOE on a corroded break line, the long one from the front to the back . Has any of ye replaced this before ? It looks like it will be difficult to put the new one back in, in one piece or take the old one out without breaking it.
I hope to get a local garage to make up the new pipe for me when I get the old one out. Any advice is welcome.

Most people just feed a new copper brake pipe in alongside (or thereabouts) the old one, clip/cable tie it conveniently, and form new flares on it 'on site'. It's generally easier to fit new nuts too.

101sean

Shouldn't be too hard. The replacement will probably be one long straight piece of copper or kunifer pipe which is easily bent to shape (just don't kink it!!). Wouldn't worry about getting the old one out in one piece, as long as you have all of it inc the unions so they know what size to use. Don't worry if you can't get the pipe back in exactly where the old came out, as long as it's adequately supported and can't chafe or get crushed.

O.A.P

Rovi wrote: »

Most people just feed a new copper brake pipe in alongside (or thereabouts) the old one, clip/cable tie it conveniently, and form new flares on it 'on site'. It's generally easier to fit new nuts too.[/QUOTE
Thanks for the fast reply Rovi. Do you mean form the flares insitu (after the pipe is in place) if so I would need to buy the tool for this plus a roll of copper pipe . I doubt I'd save myself any thing then.

Rovi

O.A.P wrote: »

Rovi wrote: »

Most people just feed a new copper brake pipe in alongside (or thereabouts) the old one, clip/cable tie it conveniently, and form new flares on it 'on site'. It's generally easier to fit new nuts too.

Thanks for the fast reply Rovi. Do you mean form the flares insitu (after the pipe is in place) if so I would need to buy the tool for this plus a roll of copper pipe . I doubt I'd save myself any thing then.

Exactly.

You're right, it'd probably not be cost-effective to buy the tools for a once-off job. Most garages and a lot of diy enthusiasts would have them though, so you could perhaps see if someone nearby had them?
Whereabouts are you? It's pretty likely someone here has the kit who isn't too far away.

I usually do these long awkward ones by taping over the end of the pipe to keep crap from getting in, and feeding it in over/through the various obstacles. I then carefully bend and form it to look neat and tidy, and then cut it to length and fit new nuts and form the flares.
I MIGHT (or might not) remove the old pipe, or maybe just snip off the dangling ends. It's often handiest to cable tie the new pipe to the old one.

101sean

If you had to do a whole vehicle and didn't want to make your own, the cheapest way is probably a kit from Automec in the UK, will have every pipe already the correct length and flared with new unions. Did my son's MX5 with earlier this year, took half a day to change all the brake lines.

O.A.P

Stuck at the first nut as xxxxx usual, it wont budge and if I put much more pressure on it I'll break either the bracket or the flexi pipe. I have just given it a good spray of wd-40 and left it to soak for the night. I will have it off tomorrow

Pigeon Reaper

Does anyone know somewhere in the Dublin area to weld a bulkhead and bottom part of a door. I have the repair plates but everone I know has tig welders and it's a gas welding job.

Deer Hunter DL

Pigeon Reaper wrote: »

Does anyone know somewhere in the Dublin area to weld a bulkhead and bottom part of a door. I have the repair plates but everone I know has tig welders and it's a gas welding job.

did someone tell you it was a gas welding job or are you only guessing your self cause if someone told you that they are talking sh1t

a tig welder will weld nearly anything i do alot of tig welding my self on mild steel and it is way before the old gas welding , you can even braze weld with a tig welder you just need the right rods

Pigeon Reaper

One of the local garages said it needed gas welding as the metal was badly corroded.

Deer Hunter DL

Pigeon Reaper wrote: »

One of the local garages said it needed gas welding as the metal was badly corroded.

ah yes corroded metal can be a problem to weld but not impossible but if your fixing it doesn't make much scene to be welding good steel to rusty steel the only way is to cut away all rusty steel otherwise your wasting your time

101sean

Sounds like you need to find a welder who actually wants the job. Although you have the repair panels, doing a bulkhead is tricky and time consuming especially if you have to cut back further, no point in welding to rust. Can't help with someone in your area though

Thy asking here www.4xforum.net, several owners round Dublin may point you in the right direction

Suckler

I have a number of jobs to tackle on my defender when I get home, looking for a bit of advice on the best way to go about them! Will only have about five days at home so wondering what I can tackle in that time frame.

1. Joint from drop arm on steering box to steerin rod is worn. Have the replacement ball joint kit but just wondering how long it will take.
2. Rust found on the chassis just above one of the rear wheels. The rust is on the side of the chassis rail that faces out towards me if I look in at it. Hole is about the size of a euro coin but Id say 4 times that by the time I rub it down to the bare metal(guessing here) Whats the best way to patch this?
3. Drivers door- when I remove the plastic door card, the bottom is rusty and the metal has separated. The metal piece that houses the window handle etc. has come away from the joint at the bottom of the door- again looking for the best way to fix it.
4. EGR removal - Got the EGR hoses etc repalced but I cant get the two allen head bolts out of the top of the exhaust manifold to get the sealer piece bolted on. has anyone ever tried tacking on to standard bolt heads and getting a socket at it?

101sean

1 Ball joint shouldn't take long, hardest part is getting the top bearing surface out and then compressing the whole thing to get the circlip back in. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10088

2 Cut out all the rusty area and weld a patch in. If you've found a hole there, have a good look at the rear crossmember while you are at it If it's the RH side, the rear loom runs through the chassis rail, don't melt it!

3. I'd just weld or rivet a repair piece in to rejoin them.

4. You could do but a proper hex bit in a socket should shift them. Having said that, the intense heat of a weld may help release them.
Spray them with releasing oil and leave for a while first. I've had one snap off before but the stub came out easily once the pressure is off.

Index to a lot more tech articles - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731

AQUAFIRE

Hello!

I want to buy Land Rover Defender 130 Station Wagon. Have any information related to that?





Thank you!

101sean

Hi and welcome.

I've moved your post here rather than in to the Wanted thread.

There's no such thing as a factory built 130 station wagon. Most that are around have been converted from ex RAF 130 Rapier tractors or factory built double cabs by Foley Specialist Vehicles in the UK. There's a couple here in Ireland, they are mainly used by tour and hot air balloon companies. I've seen them for sale in the Land Rover comics now and then.

What do you need it for, would a double cab 130 with a pickup or quadtech rear body do, far easier to find?

http://www.foleyspecialistvehicles.co.uk/

AQUAFIRE

101sean wrote: »

Hi and welcome.

I've moved your post here rather than in to the Wanted thread.

There's no such thing as a factory built 130 station wagon. Most that are around have been converted from ex RAF 130 Rapier tractors or factory built double cabs by Foley Specialist Vehicles in the UK. There's a couple here in Ireland, they are mainly used by tour and hot air balloon companies. I've seen them for sale in the Land Rover comics now and then.

What do you need it for, would a double cab 130 with a pickup or quadtech rear body do, far easier to find?

http://www.foleyspecialistvehicles.co.uk/

thanks man for the useful link

Caoimhín

Hey folks,

I had to ditch my defender to avoid a stray dog (i should have just driven over him)

Anyway, the front side panel is damager, ie; these two partshttp://www.simmonites.com/DEFENDER BODY PANELS.htm

Now, im wondering if the second part, around the light, is the right part fot the entire top wing? I had a guy look at it and he reckons that the light part and the top bonnet wing are different parts.

Any ideas?

Oh, its a 2008 puma defender.