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The Defender thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,315 ✭✭✭Suckler


    101sean wrote: »
    1 Ball joint shouldn't take long, hardest part is getting the top bearing surface out and then compressing the whole thing to get the circlip back in.
    Easy to disassemble - Nightmare to get it all back together! Bottle jack was the only way to get enough pressure on it all to get the circlip in.

    101sean wrote: »
    2 Cut out all the rusty area and weld a patch in. If you've found a hole there, have a good look at the rear crossmember while you are at it ;) If it's the RH side, the rear loom runs through the chassis rail, don't melt it!
    Was actually a lot worse than I'd thought:( A fair bit of patching to be done, going to get a local proffessional welder to look at it - beyond my capabilities


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    Can anyone please point me in the direction of who sells the cheapest new parts for Landrover?
    I need a fair few parts for a Series III 109 overhaul, however I mailed several places last Friday and so far only one has replied with prices!
    Himself wants to crack on with working on it asap, but can't do a whole lot without parts :o

    My shopping list so far is looking like this:

    Brake overhaul kit (front & rear)
    Parabolic Springs (front and rear)
    Parabolic spring fixing bolts & plates
    Shock absorbers
    Full Polybush kit
    Engine service kit (condensor/distributor cap/rotor arm/points/plugs/plug leads, air filter & oil filter)
    Full exhaust system (basic)
    Front wheel bearings
    Head gasket kit (incl. valve seals)
    Piston Rings


    If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    http://www.paddockspares.com/brands/bf-goodrich-tyres.html


    Don't use them myself but they do have a good selection of series stuff...........


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    As Stock says, try Paddocks, they have flat rate postage to here. Beware what you are buying though, for the brake parts, bearings, service items and anything that moves you don't want Britpart. If you look at their website they usually offer OEM or genuine alternatives for not too much more, stuff that comes in a blue box has a poor reputation.

    Looks like you have done your research so I assume you know that fitting parabolic springs needs matching shocks, not standard ones.

    A couple of others worth looking at -
    http://www.lrseries.com
    http://www.mm-4x4.com/land-rover-series--military-15-c.asp
    http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    Thanks a mill for the links, I'll give them a try :)

    I've mailed paddocks already still waiting for a quote.
    I'm really suprised actually, I must have mailed at least 4 companies Friday evening and so far only one has bothered taking them time to mail me back.
    Good to see they're all so busy they don't need the business!

    Good to know on the oem vs britpart stuff. I would've used Britpart a fair bit when I was into the classic mini's but I guess they don't take as much abuse as a Landy!

    Ok off to have a minor heart attack no doubt at the price of this stuff :(


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Not all Britpart is bad, they even supply the factory with some stuff and sometimes you have no choice (swivel housings for example). General rule amongst most owners is to always use Genuine or OEM for brakes, clutch, bearings, seals and balljoints. Bearmach and Allmakes have a better reputation.

    I've usually had good service from Paddocks but always order online.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    Folks, is there any chance you could help me identify/name a part I need to replace?

    There's one on each side of the landy, they run from the bulkhead under the doors to the back/tub. Am I making any sense? :o

    Thanks in advance!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Sill Channel Assembly RH & LH 330380 & 330381


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    You're a legend, thanks a mill Sean! Exactly what I'm looking for :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    That's OK, you too can be as sad as me and fill your laptop up with parts and workshop manuals ;)

    Heap more on the bookshelf as well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14 shaycoll


    Hello everyone. Just found this thread and registered. Just bought a 03 crewcab 110 and was hoping to clean it up a bit for the missus. Have spotted exmoor trim 2nd row single seats and retrim kits. Has anyone else used any of these? Seem very pricey. Also, hoping to sound proof a bit. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance:). SC


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    Lucky missus, I wouldn't say no to a crewcab :)

    I think those retrim kits are mad money alright, could you have a look in breakers and see if you could pick up second hand seats as an alternative?
    Might work out a bit cheaper/less time consuming.

    We bought in a Series 3 109 from the UK last week and the previous owner kitted it out with cream range rover seats, they're so comfy compared to the standard issue seats and look quite nice too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 shaycoll


    Do Range Rover seats fit in a Defender? They would be class! Very comfy I'd imagine. See a rear set on done deal for 1100 euro but I presume I could find others.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    You can make them the fit a station wagon, not sure they'll go in a DC though.

    Do a search for Sam's Trim, they do seats. I'll have a look in one of the comics later, only just got back from Dartfield.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 shaycoll


    I saw a video on You Tube of a guy fitting puma seats to a SW but it was all drilling and new custom made brackets. The exmoor stuff has a bracket set to convert the 60/40 to three single seats and it's all meant to fit together easily. Found a guy with 03 RR rear seats for small money so curious if the exmoor brackets would make it all fit. The CC I have has a division between load area and rear seats but it is retro fit. Could remove it quite easily to fit a floor bracket if necessary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    I don't think they will help, you'll have to fab your own.

    The seat base will be a touch too wide, I think the usual thing is to do a bit of a nip and tuck on the 1/3 base. I tried a scruffy set I had lying around, the shape of the seat base will look a bit odd in the Defender but they'll be a hell of a lot more comfortable! I'll probably have another try if I fall over a decent set.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    I'm not sure if there's a huge difference in the internal dimensions of the 109 vs your 130, I'll take pics of the interior and their fitting brackets to show you what way the previous owner fitted them to our one.

    Might take a few days though, it's currently in several bits......tub, chassis, cab & engine are all temporarily separated pending delivery of an ass load of parts to reassemble it!

    For anyone looking to get parts, I ended up going with http://www.foundry4x4.co.uk/ & found them a lot cheaper than anyone else.
    Same price as most others for shipping. Little slow to reply but worth it for the good prices :)

    It doesn't look like they stock a lot going by their site, but I mailed them about the parts I needed and they stock the lot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 shaycoll


    That would be great. Thank you. Think the previous owner had dogs. Driving with the windows down might not be such a good idea over the next few months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    We bought a discovery like that last year, it didn't look too bad on the surface....it was only when we started stripping out the carpets in the back that we found the previous owner had done a botch job welding up the back (from passenger to commercial) so there was a tunnel in the back that was full of dog hair & syringes :eek:

    There was a terrible smell in it, I think that's why we had started to strip it out.
    Basically the guy had left the floor heaters that would normally be in place for back seat passengers.
    So when the heating was on in it, we were heating up the rotten pile of dogs hairs & God know's what else was under there :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 shaycoll


    I'll be starting by taking out the carpets as I get ready for the seats. I might as well try to soundproof it as much as I can before I refit the carpets and the seats. Has anyone fitted any soundproofing. On the discovery programs like overhaulin they always fit some shiny silver soundproofing called dynamat. Anything like that here?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    I don't know about here. Noisekiller are the main supplier of precut kits of the shiny stuff. Otherwise do a search sound deadening, you must be able to buy it in rolls or sheets.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    Apparently you can get it in Halfords but it's pricey.
    I came across a thread about it on vagdrivers.net where this guy recommends stuff from the builders providers as a cheaper alternative....
    self adhesive roof flashing was voted better than dynamatt by the yanks, cheap as chips and builders providers has it, nearly the same as any sound matt, ive used both, no difference, bar the advertising bull**** talk

    Haven't seen or used the stuff myself so can't comment. Apparently its not great for sound resonance so if you were planning on entering an audio competitions with your Landy it mightn't be great, but for reducing the tin can effect of the Defender it might be worth looking into?

    This sounds tight I know, but is there any cheap alternative anyone could recommend instead of the pre-cut rubberised mats the likes of paddocks etc supply?
    They're pretty big money online (seen them £270+ sterling on one site :eek:) + postage is high because of the weight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Cheapskate Defender owners use flashbanding, cheap carpet and closed cell camping mats :D

    On the underside of the engine and gearbox covers of my 101 I used multiple layers of the stuff for loft insulation that looks like chrome bubble wrap, it's supposedly fireproof.

    I have one of those very expensive sound matting systems in my 110, it's very effective and looks professional but it is my everyday vehicle so was worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭caprilicious


    That's a great idea with the insulation, I know the stuff you're talking about seen it in Woodies.
    Hmm sounds like the right job :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    From LROI website. :D

    Current Defender to be reprieved until 2017?

    It is being reported that some models in the current Land Rover Defender range may be given a reprieve from being discontinued in 2015. It is likely that the current and long-running Defender will remain in production until at least 2017, This date is, of course, two years after the suggested launch of the all-new Defender replacement - recently premiered as the DC100 concept - in 2015.

    The 110 and 130 versions of the Defender are likely to be the models that stay in production after the launch of the new SWB Defender. This is thought to be as a result of changes in the legislation that was likely to end current Defender in production. It is now believed that the new 2.2-litre diesel engine for 2012 model year Defenders will meet EU6 standards of emissions regulations that will restrict diesel engine pollutants further in 2015/16. It has also been further suggested that the Defender might not have to comply with EU6 until a later date because some years ago it was reclassified as a commercial vehicle.

    It is thought that more restrictive laws about pedestrian safety criteria were likely to outlaw the shape of the current Defender in 2015, but Land Rover now believes that an exemption from this mandated requirement until 2020 might be given


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Back to the second row seats question, seems Renault Scenic is flavour of the month. Recent thread with a link to an older one with photos http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71906


  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭Snake_Doctor


    Another lovely cummins conversion, man I'd love that...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,789 ✭✭✭Caoimhín


    Morning lads,

    My DOE is coming up so im going to need a new set of tyres.

    Having looked at all the different types for different conditions I think General Grabbers AT2. Reason being that while I am off road on sites and on gravel roads through the forests, the BF Goodrich (R16) are bloody useless on tarmac (particularly when the roads are wet, it is actually dangerous).
    The Grabbers seem to have an all-round performance.

    Can anyone recommend somewhere in Ireland where I might get them or is it cheaper to buy them of some UK based company. With many of the UK dealers delivery is free so I could have them sent to a friend of mine who lives across the border about 20 miles from me.

    I am in Leitrim by the way but if the price was right I dont mind travelling.

    Thanks in advance


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,789 ✭✭✭Caoimhín


    Another lovely cummins conversion, man I'd love that...

    I like the branch holding up the bonnet. Nice "agricultural" look about it :rolleyes:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Best bet is to get some prices off the likes of Camskill and then go round your local tyre places and see if they can match them taking into account delivery costs etc, they are getting competitive here now. Also look at the 3 or 4 recent tyre threads, there's recommendations in there that may be local to you.

    I'm surprised at your experience with the BFGs, maybe it was that tread pattern. I'm on BFG MTs and brother in law has just put another set of ATs on after getting 120000km out of the last set (they were nearly bald though :rolleyes:), neither of us have any problems in the wet.

    Get the AT2 while you can, they are being replaced by the AT which supposedly isn't as good but meets EC noise regs :confused:


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