The Defender thread

Icyseanfitz

now what does a brake pedal box look like and where would it be located?

101sean

Open the bonnet, it's on the RHS and the brake servo and master cylinder are mounted on it. There will be a stamped plate on top with the chassis number and weights on it.

Icyseanfitz

il wait until morning and il give a good search for it, as always the help is much appreciated

Stonewolf

SafeSurfer wrote: »

Just wondering what is the oldest LR 90 and 110 you have seen on the road recently. I love the classic look of unmolested, unmodified early nineties in Trident green but especially Arles blue, something iconic about them in their original condition. The earliest example I have seen on the road recently was a 1989 ninety. I suspect most of the early models are lying up in farm yards around the country, rusting away. There are plenty of 200tdi s around but road going 2.5s and 2.5 turbos seem very rare.

Any early examples spotted recently?

There's a black crew cab 110 van with snorkel and a few other bits and pieces parked in the underground in work the last few days, has a 79 plate on it but a Defender/110 body. Ah, chassis swaps.

Seanieke

Does anyone know where I can get the "Flying Saucer" bit of the Fuel Pressure Regulator? I've tried replacing the o-rings but she's still spitting out diesel. Must be a diaphragm of some sort in there.

Thanks

101sean

You can't, replace the entire FPR. Make sure you get the right one, later ones have an extra hose. Use the later gasket, it's better.

What year is yours, I'll confirm the part number.

Seanieke

101sean wrote: »

You can't, replace the entire FPR. Make sure you get the right one, later ones have an extra hose. Use the later gasket, it's better.

What year is yours, I'll confirm the part number.

Bugger thats what I thought. I'm only fixing her up to sell so was trying to save maney. It's an '01 XA chassis

101sean

Should be the two pipe one then http://www.paddockspares.com/lr016319-fuel-pressure-regulator-and-connector-td5-2-pipe-entry.html

Later gasket http://www.paddockspares.com/msx000010-gasket-fuel-connector-block-to-engine-td5-from-eng-no-10p15968b.html

Icyseanfitz

found the chassis number i was looking for a cleverly hidden stamp covered in mud when it was all on a little plate as sean101 said, mine was at the back left of the engine bay (as you open the bonnet) on what appeared to be a part of the chassis

Tokyo

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

found the chassis number i was looking for a cleverly hidden stamp covered in mud when it was all on a little plate as sean101 said, mine was at the back left of the engine bay (as you open the bonnet) on what appeared to be a part of the chassis

I think that me and you have very different ideas of where the chassis is, mate..

Icyseanfitz

is the chassis the rigid body that that everything is attached to? complete lack of knowledge here

Tokyo

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

is the chassis the rigid body that that everything is attached to? complete lack of knowledge here

Sorry mate, just re-read my post and realised that it probably came across as me being a smartarse, which wasn't my intention. Was just cracking a joke.

But, to answer the question, the chassis would be the ladder frame plus running gear. The partition between the engine bay and the cab, on the defender at least, is known as the bulkhead, or firewall.

Rovi

The chassis is the big steel frame unto which everything else (engine/transmission, bodywork, axles/suspension, etc) is bolted.

Here's a lovely shiny galvanised one:

Icyseanfitz

lovely and shiny the part that my chassis number was attached to was a large protruding piece of metal coming from the bulkhead (i think) which seemed to be holding the engine oil etc.

il get all this stuff eventually :pac:

Tokyo

Thats the brake servo mate - you definitely don't want to be putting engine oil in there!

101sean

You have got a lot to learn!

The plate is on top of the brake pedal box to which, as Mike points out, is attached the brake servo and brake master cylinder.

Icyseanfitz

got to start somewhere sure sure arnt you meant to put oil on your brakes

Tokyo

We all start somewhere indeed, and I'm sure that everyone here will be happy to point you in the right direction. As a first step though, I can't recommend highly enough getting a copy of the RAVE cd, and taking a look through it. Step by step tutorials on everything you could possibly want to do to your defender, with diagrams to match.

banjolin

Been missing from here for a while, building my house and running a cider festival, but great to see this thread come alive. And Icy, so happy that there is someone here that knows even less than I do about oily things. Welcome indeed. Won't feel like such a tit asking questions.

Which leads me to....

Oil coming from rear hub again. Do you really need those special tools they mention in the workshop manual to correctly replace a hub seal?

Ooops. Forgot to say its a td5 2005. Part no. FTC4785G. Had seal replaced earlier this year.

Tokyo

banjolin wrote: »

Oil coming from rear hub again. Do you really need those special tools they mention in the workshop manual to correctly replace a hub seal?

Shouldn't do. I don't have the workshop manual to hand so I don't know exactly what special tools you are referring to - the only thing I can think of is something to open the wheel bearing nuts that holds down the tabbed washer and everything behind it - but I've changed the hub seal at the side of the road with a set of spanners and a few basic tools. To loosen the wheel bearing nuts, hold the tip of a screwdriver at one of the corners, and tap it with a hammer - they come loose pretty easily. Everything else is straightforward.

Icyseanfitz

mike_ie wrote: »

We all start somewhere indeed, and I'm sure that everyone here will be happy to point you in the right direction. As a first step though, I can't recommend highly enough getting a copy of the RAVE cd, and taking a look through it. Step by step tutorials on everything you could possibly want to do to your defender, with diagrams to match.

right so im off to google that cd :pac:

banjolin

Could never find the rave cd myself. Did get a pdf of the Workshop Manual which is 627 pages.

The tools I refer to are mentioned in it (see attached). LRT-54-003 and LRT-99-003.

101sean

Td5 has a stake nut rather than lock washers but it's still 52mm dia. You can knock it around as Mike suggests but add a 52mm box spanner to the shopping list

Td5s have a spacer between the two bearings, throw it and the stake nut away and adjust the bearings with two locknuts and lockwasher as God originally designed it :rolleyes:

Tap the the hub seal in gently and evenly with a a big socket or hardwood drift, if it's double lipped it needs to go in so the outer lip is flush with the hub or it will get torn off. Grease the lips of the seal so they don't get damaged as you put the hub back on.

Check the stub axle land that the seal runs on, if it's scored the seal will leak again. I think on Td5s you have to replace the whole stub axle if it is, they are cheap anyway

101sean

Definitely don't need those tools.


RAVE
http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/news/rave-cds-now-available-for-download
http://www.landroverresource.com/

Tokyo

banjolin wrote: »

Could never find the rave cd myself. Did get a pdf of the Workshop Manual which is 627 pages.

The tools I refer to are mentioned in it (see attached). LRT-54-003 and LRT-99-003.

Meh... no special tools required.

Here's a nice step by step how to for you.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23658&hl=%2Bhub+%2Bseal

banjolin

101sean wrote: »

Td5 has a stake nut rather than lock washers but it's still 52mm dia. You can knock it around as Mike suggests but add a 52mm box spanner to the shopping list

Td5s have a spacer between the two bearings, throw it and the stake nut away and adjust the bearings with two locknuts and lockwasher as God originally designed it :rolleyes:

Tap the the hub seal in gently and evenly with a a big socket or hardwood drift, if it's double lipped it needs to go in so the outer lip is flush with the hub or it will get torn off. Grease the lips of the seal so they don't get damaged as you put the hub back on.

Check the stub axle land that the seal runs on, if it's scored the seal will leak again. I think on Td5s you have to replace the whole stub axle if it is, they are cheap anyway

...and thats it in a nutshell ;-) Who needs manuals. Thanks a million.

banjolin

mike_ie wrote: »

banjolin wrote: »

Could never find the rave cd myself. Did get a pdf of the Workshop Manual which is 627 pages.

The tools I refer to are mentioned in it (see attached). LRT-54-003 and LRT-99-003.

Meh... no special tools required.

Here's a nice step by step how to for you.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23658&hl=%2Bhub+%2Bseal

Hammers it is then;-)

Tokyo

banjolin wrote: »

Hammers it is then;-)

Now you're beginning to think like a Land Rover mechanic...

101sean

Everyone should have that LR4x4 link as a bookmark, there's some very good "how to" articles in the index with lots of piccies.

An old REME saying -

If it moves and it shouldn't, hit it with a big hammer until it doesn't.
If it doesn't move and it should, hit it with a big hammer until it does.

Seanieke

It looks like the flying saucer can be bought seperately! Once I figure out what to search for on eBay I'll post a link!

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=110246