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DIY Floating a barrel off a synthetic stock?

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  • 19-01-2010 1:06am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,603 ✭✭✭


    A quick question which is ever-so-slightly related to an earlier thread in relation to CZ triggers etc.

    Does anyone know what's the best way to float the barrel on a synthetic stock? (in this particular case, a .22lr CZ452 Silhouette) - Hoping to make some DIY tweaks to my .22 and any and all advice would be welcome!

    (Found some info on DIY barrel floating, but it's all related to timber stocks)

    Thanks.

    dC


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭rowa


    are you sure it isn't floating already ? fold a fiver in half and run it up along the barrel and see if it touches the stock .

    i think some synthetic stocks are far too flexible to free float ,


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,603 ✭✭✭dCorbus


    thanks rowa,
    nearly sure it isn't floated - will double check again in the morning.
    Was using some card when last checked - but haven't tried it with a fiver.

    Is that all it is needed to "float" by?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭rowa


    dCorbus wrote: »
    thanks rowa,
    nearly sure it isn't floated - will double check again in the morning.
    Was using some card when last checked - but haven't tried it with a fiver.

    Is that all it is needed to "float" by?

    so long as the barrel doesn't touch the fore end , why not shoot some groups before and after, using the same ammo over the same distance and see if the groups tighten up at all ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,057 ✭✭✭clivej


    This is what i found out what to do to improve the shooting preformance of your CZ 452 from reading many forums.

    1. Check that it is floated or not by using a business card to wrap around the barrel and run down the inside of the stock to where the front action screw is. If it binds at all then take off the action from the stock and sand out the stock until the card goes down easy.

    2. Replace the trigger with a kit as you already know about.

    3. The front action screw fits onto a metal lig that fits onto the front of the barrel by means of a dovetail arrangement on the barrel. Now you can either leave the front action screw off all together or get a allen key 6mm grub screw that is 6mm long and screw it into the metal lug and keep it tight to the barrel and in the dovetail.
    This is down by putting it in loose and replacing the action and centering the barrel and then tightening up the grub screw through the stock and then putting the front action screw.

    When putting the action and barrel back into the stock pack out the front of the barrel to keep it in the mif=ddle of the stock as you tighten up the action screws.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,603 ✭✭✭dCorbus


    Thanks lads, great advice!
    If it binds at all then take off the action from the stock and sand out the stock until the card goes down easy

    Will ordinary sand paper do the trick on the synthetic stock? Or can you recommend sand / glass / emery paper or anything which would be best? Don't want to rip shreds out of the stock!;)
    This is down by putting it in loose and replacing the action and centering the barrel and then tightening up the grub screw through the stock and then putting the front action screw.

    Think I know what you mean here - Any chance you could point me in the direction of a youtube vid of this process? Or maybe, explain it to me in some more detail? (PM me if you want) I'm a wee bit slow at the moment!:rolleyes:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,244 ✭✭✭rrpc


    dCorbus wrote: »
    Will ordinary sand paper do the trick on the synthetic stock? Or can you recommend sand / glass / emery paper or anything which would be best? Don't want to rip shreds out of the stock!;)
    Try a bit under the barrel where it won't show. Most of those you mention should be ok anyway, but do a small test first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,057 ✭✭✭clivej


    Use a tube the same size as the barrel chanel and wrap course sand paper, I think i used 3com blue ish sand paper from woodies, around it and sand away as hard as you can. Keep checking every now and then for a good float so you don't take to much off.

    This was on my CZ style with the synthetic stock.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,057 ✭✭✭clivej


    dCorbus wrote: »
    Thanks lads, great advice!

    Think I know what you mean here - Any chance you could point me in the direction of a youtube vid of this process? Or maybe, explain it to me in some more detail? (PM me if you want) I'm a wee bit slow at the moment!:rolleyes:

    The idea is to hold the front lug to the barrel so that the lug can't move even when you take the barrel off the stock.

    The grub screw is only 6mm max in length so that when you screw it into the lug the front action screw can still be used, IE when you screw in the action screw it WILL NOT hit up against the new grub screw in the lug.

    Some people will use a washer under the lug , the washer dropped into the front action hole in the stock where the lug will sit. This will raise the front of the barrel up and give a floated barrel.
    BUT IMO this is not a good idea because the complete action is also raised up and is NOT now sitting in the stock as it should. The moulded stock is a good match to the action and is a tight fit so lifting up the action out of the moulded stock will just make matters worst I think.


    I used Sportsmatch mounts on the CZ 22lr Style. Good enough and cheap.

    http://www.sportsmatch-uk.com/

    http://www.tawnadoairguns.com/sportsmatch_mounts.php


    Then with Nikko Nighteater 8-32x60
    CZStyle22lrsideon.jpg

    And now with Bushnell 3200 Elite tactical 10x40 and fully pillar bedded custom stock.
    CZStylewithnewstock2.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭maglite


    Go with a washer under the forward screw and shoot a few groups.

    Twood be a shame to float and find out it did't improve anything.


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