Sports photography - Nikon D40

Vintagekits

I've gotten a hold of a Nikon D40 and a lense (Sigma 10-20mm) which I have been using to take mostly sports shots - boxing in the main.

But I dont really know how to use it to be honest.

I get decent access but my action shots are blurry - I think the lense might not be what I need but what am I doing wrong and what can I change?

Here are a couple of examples of shots that could have been a lot better if I knew what I was doing.











Obviously not all of the shots come out like that but they are some of the ones I wish I nailed.

Thirdfox

Light, light, light!

There's not enough light getting into your camera so the exposure time is increased and you see blur.

So, you have a few choices to increase shutter speed:
1. Increase your ISO - I've used a D40 for sports in the past, and it can go to iso 1600 and still look okay.

2. More light:
a) more "natural" light - ask the people to turn up the lights in the stadiums...can be hard to do
b) buy artificial light - buying a flash for the D40 would do wonders (I use a SB600). Problem is that this may not be allowed for some sporting events due to the distraction it causes to participants.

3. Upgrade lens - I've used the Sigma 10-20. It's a nice lens for the money but not very "fast" (F4-5.6). You can spend some cash and get a "fast" f2.8 or 2.0 prime lens which will up your shutter speed 2-4 times.

The above are the best options (in that order pretty much). Try the iso first (it's free )

Here's one of mine shot on the D40 with a slow telephoto lens (55-200vr) - but since it was a bright sunny day I could keep the shutter speed at 1/500th of a second and almost have no blur in my shots:

CabanSail

What settings are you using on the D40? Hopefully not set in the dreaded Auto?

It is down to slow shutter speeds, which means a lack of light.

Vintagekits

CabanSail wrote: »

What settings are you using on the D40? Hopefully not set in the dreaded Auto?

It is down to slow shutter speeds, which means a lack of light.

aye, auto!

The thing is that you cant have the flash on at a fight - its a sure way of gettin yer own ass kicked.

Thirdfox

Vintagekits wrote: »

aye, auto!

The thing is that you cant have the flash on at a fight - its a sure way of gettin yer own ass kicked.

In which case, if you don't want to buy any extra equipment there's a quick way and a long way of going about getting what you want:

Quick way
1) Switch to A mode, set ISO to 1600 and keep the aperture as low as you can (f4 for the sigma)

Long way
2) Switch to S mode, set ISO to 1600, switch the file type to shoot in RAW and not jpeg, set the shutter speed to a fast one (1/250 to 1/500 depending on how fast they move, might even need to go faster to stop objects (fists) completely). This will give you an underexposed image in all likelihood...then you open up that RAW photo and push the photo a few stops to (hopefully) get an image that has the correct exposure and isn't too noisy.

Don't underexpose too much though (RAW probably gives you 1-2 stops of room).

Or spend E190 on a 35mm f1.8...

Mike Litoris

Does the D40 have auto iso? Put it on and use shutter priority. Start with 1/80 and raise until the blur is gone.

Wide-ish cheap-ish and very fast is the Sigma 30mm f1.4. It's pig to get good focus wide open tho..

If you're allowed a flash gun get an SB600. It also opens up a whole other side of photography for you.

Also some of your shots you missed the focus on the boxers, like 2 where the ref seems to be in focus. Providing you get the motion blur sorted, set the focus to "C" or continious focus and track the subject. You can change the different focus points left and right to keep both boxers in the centre of the frame. After you've mastered that you can set the shutter to continuous to get some bursts.

Paulw

Set the focus point to the centre point only.
Use shutter priority and set a speed greater than 1/100 sec.
Set the ISO high enough to all you get a fast shutter speed.
You really need a fast lens (f/2.8 or better).

Other than that, it's trial and error, trying to get a fast enough shutter speed.

Vintagekits

can someone provide a link to the ideal lens for me please?

hcnyla

Vintagekits wrote: »

can someone provide a link to the ideal lens for me please?

No such thing I'm afraid.

However, if you want to buy a lens then for wide angle shots of the boxing then a Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 should do the job for you.
If you want tight head shots as well then a Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 would be the ideal accompaniment.

Both cost in excess of €1K new, EACH. You can buy OEM's like Sigma and Tamron lenses much cheaper for your camera also but you will still pay over €1K for the two of them.

However, you need to learn how to use the camera also as no lense in the world will fix your problems if you can't use the camera properly. For high speed indoor photography then you are never going to get what you want using Auto.

CabanSail

hcnyla wrote: »

However, if you want to buy a lens then for wide angle shots of the boxing then a Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 should do the job for you.
If you want tight head shots as well then a Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 would be the ideal accompaniment.

The 24-70 would be wide on an FX Body, but the D40 is a DX Body, so it is not really Wide, as it would be equivalent to 38mm for Full Frame.


There are two parts to this problem;

One is that you are going in with very little knowledge of the basics of photography and trying to get good results in quite a difficult discipline.

The other part is that Sports Photography is an area which often demands a lot from the equipment. This would be Bodies which have very good ISO performance (expensive) and very fast glass (ussually expensive) which is also long (very expensive)

Now all is not lost. There is a lens that will not cost the earth, which coupled with an undertanding of exposure, could get you some reasonable results. This is the 50mm f1.8, which is called the nifty fifty. On the D40 it will be a mid telephoto, so you will have to position yourself for the framing of the shots. Using f1.8 the depth of field will be shallow so you will also have to be precise with your focusing. Not sure if you get AF on the D40 or not, but may be best to manually focus anyway. This lens is fast enough that with a reasonable ISO on the D40 you will get acceptable shutter speeds.

There is also 30mm f1.8 which would be a normal lens on a cropped body & could also be very useful.

Thirdfox

probably not recommended that the OP tries to manually focus the 50mm f1.8 on the D40... autofocus is available with the 50mm f1.4 afs though.

Though I would spring for the 35mm f1.8 (Nikon) or 30mm f1.4 (Sigma) as for wider coverage.

Ideally, I'd get a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 as something that autofocuses on the D40 and is cheaper than the OEM version (17-55 f2.8 Nikkor)

Photography is expensive :P

magicbastarder

the D40 also has a HI ISO which is actually equivalent to 3200, but is not called 3200 in the menu, for some bizarre reason.

hi_im_fil

Its called H1 or something like that. It's very very noisy anyway, best to avoid using that high ISO if possible.

Paulw

hi_im_fil wrote: »

Its called H1 or something like that. It's very very noisy anyway, best to avoid using that high ISO if possible.

High ISO is much better than a blurred image. High ISO images don't look quite as bad when printed as they do on screen.

Yes, sports photography can be expensive, but it can be worth it (enjoyment wise).

Fast lenses, higher ISO, and fast action. Always fun.

damiendar

We were at the same fight .. shooting boxing is way harder than it looks lens wise you need something in the range around 20 to 70 zoom anything else would really be to big when its on the other side of the ring just switch to portrait for full lenght shots like so


and if they get knocked down you will get both still in the frame,
settings like PaulW said centre spot only and at least 1600 boxers hands move very fast and the light is almost always rubbish ,
and heres a tip study the fight and focus on the guy who is not coming forward all the time this way you will get more shots in focus as the other boxer will move into the frame as they attack, dont use single focus and just get used to the idea that you will have alot of out of focus/blurred/missed shots -but hopefully the odd good one

The Ovation For Darren Sutherland on that night was a nice touch

Vintagekits

damiendar wrote: »

We were at the same fight .. shooting boxing is way harder than it looks lens wise you need something in the range around 20 to 70 zoom anything else would really be to big when its on the other side of the ring just switch to portrait for full lenght shots like so

damiendar, indeed we were. In fact I think I was standing to the right of you. I asked you a question about how to sort the shutter speed and you gave me an answer which I didnt understand but I didnt want to ask you to explain it because you were busy on your computer.

I am going to the Hattons bill in Stoke later this month and will see if the advice I have picked up here has helped improve my shots!

rowanh

How does one get permission to be at the side of the ring taking photos??

ditpaintball

double post

ditpaintball

For a fast lense for the D40 try the Nikor 35mm 1.8AF-S from Denis MacSween'y on Dawson street. I picked it up for €199 the other day ( roughly €249 in conn's and berminghams I think). It says €229 on sweeney's website but this is wrong, its only €199. AF-S means that it will autofocus on a D40.

This will give you 52mm of a focal length on the D40 cause its a DX format. Also, it is a great portrait lens, great depth of field. The only bad point is that its a prime lens and so you can not zoom.

Vintagekits

Paulw wrote: »

Set the focus point to the centre point only.
Use shutter priority and set a speed greater than 1/100 sec.
Set the ISO high enough to all you get a fast shutter speed.
You really need a fast lens (f/2.8 or better).

Other than that, it's trial and error, trying to get a fast enough shutter speed.

how do I alter the shutter speed?

Paulw

Vintagekits wrote: »

how do I alter the shutter speed?

Shoot in manual or shutter priority. Then you can set the shutter speed as fast as you need (also make sure to set your ISO high enough)

Vintagekits

My latest efforts.

Any better?

Paulw

They do seem much sharper, if a little over-exposed.

PCPhoto

looking at the pictures....especially the last picture ....unless "jack" is a demon ... you used flash ....RED EYES !!! (Cast shadows were also a hint)

if you are using flash dont put the ISO up so high, if you are using high ISO try dropping shutter speeds a bit.

I'd like to know how you arrange access to these fights (Ringside) .... I've only done a handfull of boxing fights and I've been put up in the stands and told shoot from there.

Vintagekits

PCPhoto wrote: »

looking at the pictures....especially the last picture ....unless "jack" is a demon ... you used flash ....RED EYES !!! (Cast shadows were also a hint)

if you are using flash dont put the ISO up so high, if you are using high ISO try dropping shutter speeds a bit.

I'd like to know how you arrange access to these fights (Ringside) .... I've only done a handfull of boxing fights and I've been put up in the stands and told shoot from there.

I'm a journalist - what am I talkin about. I am a boxing fan that plays at boxing journalism. We have a Nikon D40 at work so I have started to bring that with me.

Because of the contacts that I have made that helps me get close. If it was a Dunne fight in the O2 then I wouldnt get near the ring.

You are right I used the flash. The place was so dark that I had to cos the first shots I took were basically just shadows.

Vintagekits

Right here is my lastest offering.

Couple of differences. A. I was in the press row as opposed to the apron and B. I was using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS1 instead of the Nikon because the zoom on the lens I have for the Nikon isnt worth toffee.

Thoughts?

Thecageyone

Photographjing boxers must be like trying to photograph a group of hyper children! [which I have managed with my humble bridge cam, indoor, without flash] The cam I have is crap beyond ISO 400, so that is the max I ever use. Instead I use slower shutter speeds, which can mean slight blur in movement but you can use this to your advantage. hand holding at slower speeds takes a little getting used to. Just take a deep breath, steady yourself, get a tighter grip on the cam and hold that breath while you shoot. This will cut down on your shakiness.

ISO 800 with your D40, and a shutter speed of 1/30 or so, should get ok results you could clean and brighten up in photoshop or lightroom later.

I took pictures at a gig recently, with no flash, and the lights would be similar dimness but crazier, going all over the place. I managed to keep the ISO down to 100 and hand hold at 1/20 for this -