Car has started to shudder when take off clutching

dnme

In the past week my old wagon has started to shuddder / vibrate / when I am taking off from stopped with the clutch. I take it this is a bad sign - clutch going ???

3DataModem

Clutch pad shredded.

I'm no expert by the way, this same thing happened to me exactly as you describe.

dnme

3DataModem wrote: »

Clutch pad shredded.

I'm no expert by the way, this same thing happened to me exactly as you describe.

Is the "clutch pad" the same as "the clutch"? IOW is my clutch going? did you have to get a new clutch? how long do I have before I have to act?

many thanks

Max Headroom

My 03 Megane does this ..but only first thing for a few start off's in the cold mornings...been doing it for ages...

dnme

Its bloody awful when stuck in heavy traffic in towm, start stop type:confused

Midnight_EG

First thoughts is the clutch release bearing, although a couple nights ago my car broke down and would shudder under the clutch, ended up it was the thermostat was fecked on it?

dnme

Midnight_EG wrote: »

First thoughts is the clutch release bearing, although a couple nights ago my car broke down and would shudder under the clutch, ended up it was the thermostat was fecked on it?

How can the thermostat affect clutching / shuddering at start off's ?

Type 17

gt112 wrote: »

Its bloody awful when stuck in heavy traffic in towm, start stop type:confused

If it's a hydraulic clutch, the fluid is old (full of moisture), and is boiling in the high under-bonnet temperatures experienced in heavy traffic. If it works ok when cold, then bleed the fluid through with fresh stuff before worrying about anything else.

dnme

I doubt mines hydraulic, (98 Corolla). I am wondering of there is dirt / grease or uneven surface on the flywheel? or is clutch just going?

Type 17

gt112 wrote: »

I doubt mines hydraulic, (98 Corolla). I am wondering of there is dirt / grease or uneven surface on the flywheel? or is clutch just going?

It's entirely possible - my '93 Audi (originally designed in '87) has one.
Either way, it's so easy to check, and so cheap to bleed the fluid out, that it's worth doing first.

Over the years, I've rectified juddering-in-heavy-traffic issues in about 3 or 4 cars belonging to friends and family by bleeding old fluid out of the clutch circuits.

Midnight_EG

gt112 wrote: »

How can the thermostat affect clutching / shuddering at start off's ?

Dunno, but now it's fixed :P

Type 17

gt112 wrote: »

How can the thermostat affect clutching / shuddering at start off's ?

If it was overheating because of a thermostat stuck shut, then borderline too-old hydraulic fluid in the circuit would cause clutch juddering when the temp under the bonnet goes higher than it normally does.

dnme

Type 17 wrote: »

It's entirely possible - my '93 Audi (originally designed in '87) has one.
Either way, it's so easy to check, and so cheap to bleed the fluid out, that it's worth doing first.

Over the years, I've rectified juddering-in-heavy-traffic issues in about 3 or 4 cars belonging to friends and family by bleeding old fluid out of the clutch circuits.

Hey type17, many thanks...

1. How do I check if mines hydraulic?
2. How do I bleed the system

Type 17

gt112 wrote: »

1. How do I check if mines hydraulic?
2. How do I bleed the system

1. If it's cable-operated, there will be a cable coming into the engine bay from behind where the pedals are (close to the brake master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir). If it's hydraulic, there will be a small cylinder, beside the brake master cylinder with a metal or flexible rubber pipe leading towards the gearbox/clutch. Some cars' clutch circuit shares the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir, and others have a small separate one.

2. If you are familiar with bleeding brakes, it's the same.
If you aren't, it's best to get it done for you, as it's almost impossible to get right without a bleeding kit and some experience. It's easy to introduce air bubbles into the circuit if you don't know how to do it properly and, although that won't damage anything, it'll make the car unusable until the air is removed by bleeding it properly. However, any mechanic worth his salt will be able to do it easily and fairly quickly, and it shouldn't take longer then 30 mins (max), so it won't cost a fortune.

Note that there are other reasons for a clutch to judder, but this is always worth checking first, especially if the issue is worse in traffic, and if you suspect that the fluid is ancient (older than about 4/5 years)

Big Nasty

My 97 5er also does this during slow take off in heavy traffic. Other than that she drives perfect. Remedy?

hiluxman

gt112 wrote: »

In the past week my old wagon has started to shuddder / vibrate / when I am taking off from stopped with the clutch. I take it this is a bad sign - clutch going ???

yep your clutch is fecked. theres either oil on the friction disc or more than lightly the pressure plate is warped. To find out whats wrong ya may take it out and have a look

Type 17

MCMLXXV wrote: »

My 97 5er also does this during slow take off in heavy traffic. Other than that she drives perfect. Remedy?

See above, if you have a hydraulic circuit. If it is a cable-operated, check the adjustment, as wear on the friction plate may leave the clutch hanging on the cable (not fully engaged). If it's neither of those things, then it might be a bigger issue.

hiluxman wrote: »

yep your clutch is fecked. theres either oil on the friction disc or more than likely the pressure plate is warped. To find out whats wrong ya may take it out and have a look

...Or you could check the hydraulic circuit or cable before paying big money to take a look at what might be a perfect clutch.

hiluxman

...Or you could check the hydraulic circuit or cable before paying big money to take a look at what might be a perfect clutch.[/QUOTE]

pointless. the hydraulic circuit has nothing to do withe clutch judder

Big Nasty

hiluxman wrote: »

the hydraulic circuit has nothing to do withe clutch judder

So what else would cause it? Flexplate?

Type 17

hiluxman wrote: »

Type 17 wrote: »

...Or you could check the hydraulic circuit or cable before paying big money to take a look at what might be a perfect clutch.

pointless. the hydraulic circuit has nothing to do withe clutch judder

I didn't think so either, but read posts 8 and 10, and especially the last line of 10 before you jump to conclusions.

hiluxman

Type 17 wrote: »

If it's a hydraulic clutch, the fluid is old (full of moisture), and is boiling in the high under-bonnet temperatures experienced in heavy traffic. If it works ok when cold, then bleed the fluid through with fresh stuff before worrying about anything else.

the reason its worse in heavy traffic is that as the as the pressure plate gets hotter the warp gets worse. as for a sticking thermostat theory? no chance buddy!

Type 17

Well, the OP and other guys were asking for help and got differing answers.

They can decide which solution to try first, but one is cheap to try and there's little to lose, and the other is expensive - which would you try first?

It's possibly that the friction plates are worn out, or the pressure plates are warped, but I'd hate to replace a clutch assembly at around €200-300 for parts and labour without trying a €30-50 solution first.

hiluxman

Type 17 wrote: »

Well, the OP and other guys were asking for help and got differing answers.

They can decide which solution to try first, but one is cheap to try and there's little to lose, and the other is expensive - which would you try first?

It's possibly that the friction plates are worn out, or the pressure plates are warped, but I'd hate to replace a clutch assembly at around €200-300 for parts and labour without trying a €30-50 solution first.

fair enough, i see your point, ya should try the cheap option first

dnme

Well anyway, thanks to both of you for contributing. I have a better idea now than I did before posting.

I'll ask mechanic next week about the hydraulics and failing that (and knowing my luck) its a new clutch. Thanks again guys.

alo1587

Your corolla clutch is hydraulic system,can be bled easily using an 8mm spanner at the slave cylinder on the gearbox its facing front of the car.Try that first anyway.Does the clutch bite very late (pedal high off the floor?)

dnme

alo1587 wrote: »

Your corolla clutch is hydraulic system,can be bled easily using an 8mm spanner at the slave cylinder on the gearbox its facing front of the car.Try that first anyway.Does the clutch bite very late (pedal high off the floor?)

no it doesn't bite late, there is no way I'd have the where with all to do that job, I'd screw it up, but thanks for th eresponse

bryaner

Type 17 wrote: »

If it was overheating because of a thermostat stuck shut, then borderline too-old hydraulic fluid in the circuit would cause clutch juddering when the temp under the bonnet goes higher than it normally does.

Absolute Dung

bryaner

hiluxman wrote: »

the reason its worse in heavy traffic is that as the as the pressure plate gets hotter the warp gets worse. as for a sticking thermostat theory? no chance buddy!

Well said dude