Glue for Push-Fit pipe ??

whosedaddy?

Just discovered a leak in my dishwasher, washing machine waste pipe...
Basically I have an old plastic pipe burried in the outside wall (can't remove) and a pushfit conversion bend slots into it. The pipe inside the wall is slightly split and water leaks out into the wall.

I was thinking about glueing the straight end of the pushfit elbow into the wall pipe (this would cover the split and should seal it).
However, the solvent glue for waste pipes supposedly won't glue push-fit pipes...

What other glue would you recommend?

Thanks!

Joey the lips

You dont use glue on push fit. There is a rubber ring that makes them self sealing these pipes are not usually difficult to remove

whosedaddy?

Joey,

I know... you don't - normally..

I had to use one of those conversion bends with a straight end (without a push-fit seal on one side) - this was the only diameter that fitted into the flush with the wall waste pipe..).

like one of those

I can't pull the waste pipe out without some serious work - hence I'm looking for a temp fix until the whole extension gets rebuild)

Joey the lips

Still unsure what you mean if its glueable at one end solvent glue works fine. If you are afraid to chance it you can use an epoxy but dont flush water through for 24 hours. Its also important there is no movement on the epoxy joint.

whosedaddy?

Ok if you think it works. I'll give it a go.

I read this http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=16503

Push fit pipe is made from a different material to solvent weld and as said is smaller. Solvent glue wont glue the push fit pipes at all.

I would use solvent weld throughout, guaranteed never to leak.

maybe I'm mixing up solvent glue and solvent weld...

Joey the lips

whosedaddy? wrote: »

Ok if you think it works. I'll give it a go.

I read this http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=16503



maybe I'm mixing up solvent glue and solvent weld...

I dont understand what they are talking about. I am guessing super glue and wavin weld. Wavin weld is a brand name for the glue to seal waste pipe. If you have not used wavin weld yet try it first. If you are uncomfortable use an epoxy as it sticks everything.

Hoever if you look at the picture you showed there is a smooth surface on the pipe this is for glueing or for push fit sealing

whosedaddy?

Alright.. I'll give it a go with wavin weld..

thanks..

CJhaughey

Push fit is Polypropylene,Solvent glue is PVC

whosedaddy?

CJhaughey wrote: »

Push fit is Polypropylene,Solvent glue is PVC

Assuming you are telling me it won't work. What options do I have then?

ART6

whosedaddy? wrote: »

Assuming you are telling me it won't work. What options do I have then?

Coat the push-fit with silicone mastic and give it time to set?

CJhaughey

I'm not saying it won't work, just giving telling you so you know what the pipe is made of.
Poster above said use silicone, you can do that or I would be inclined to use Tec 7 or the equivalent, Fix-oseal etc.
Polyprop doesn't glue so thats why solvent doesn't work.

Joey the lips

ART6 wrote: »

Coat the push-fit with silicone mastic and give it time to set?

It does not hold. The heat of the water works it free. Its one of the mistakes I first made many many moons ago..

Hagar

Push a narrow diameter pipe through the problem pipe, if it can cope with the flow?

CJhaughey

Tec 7 holds anything. roughen the pipe a bit before you glue it

Joey the lips

Hagar wrote: »

Push a narrow diameter pipe through the problem pipe, if it can cope with the flow?

Ahh the man of mystery is back......

CJhaughey wrote: »

Tec 7 holds anything. roughen the pipe a bit before you glue it

True. That sounds promising.

ART6

Joey the lips wrote: »

It does not hold. The heat of the water works it free. Its one of the mistakes I first made many many moons ago..

Dow Corning do one that works up to 150 degrees C. It's available from Radionics in Dublin by email order (http://radionics.rs-online.com) as far as I'm aware.

Joey the lips

ART6 wrote: »

Dow Corning do one that works up to 150 degrees C. It's available from Radionics in Dublin by email order (http://radionics.rs-online.com) as far as I'm aware.

I know I was the Dow Corning Agent in ireland. Its called fire seal white. Its a silicone. It can be bought white and black so you can see it going into black firebricks.

It was what i used and its a pure silicone. Thats all that makes it fireseal. Lead and gutter is the same.

It will not work. But nice advertisement.

cnocbui

I would suggest trying Bostic Serious Stuff Wetgrab adhesive:

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/serious-stuff-wet-grab

It retains a certain flexibility when cured, unlike epoxy, and sticks way better than silicone.

You can get it at B&Q.

It should easily handle hot water.

CJhaughey

Just like Tec 7 then?

whosedaddy?

thanks guys.

I'll see what I can get my hands on easily in town.

cnocbui

CJhaughey wrote: »

Just like Tec 7 then?

I have no idea what Tec 7 is so I wouldn't know.

...

Having looked it up it appears they are probably similar if Tec 7 is a alcoxysilane based adhesive.

GreeBo

If its a 40mm pipe I would just push a 32mm pipe through it and reduce at each end as a temp measure.

I had a similiar issue and was actually able to break the pipe out of the wall, it took a bit of work but since its smooth it wasnt really stuck to the concrete at all.

Joey the lips

GreeBo wrote: »

If its a 40mm pipe I would just push a 32mm pipe through it and reduce at each end as a temp measure.

I had a similiar issue and was actually able to break the pipe out of the wall, it took a bit of work but since its smooth it wasnt really stuck to the concrete at all.

He cant do that i imagine. There is a dishwasher and washing machine draining through this. The reduction would actually cause a blockage.

However if he could it would be easier to replace the pipe as he would have virtually full access to the pipe.

whosedaddy?

GreeBo wrote: »

If its a 40mm pipe I would just push a 32mm pipe through it and reduce at each end as a temp measure.

I had a similiar issue and was actually able to break the pipe out of the wall, it took a bit of work but since its smooth it wasnt really stuck to the concrete at all.

if the pipe was only straight... it runs through the outside wall and then bends/ slopes underneath a tiled patio outside... connecting to waste pipe there. this was put there many moons ago.. will only change when rebuilding the kitchen extension.

Got Tec7 and will glue it tonight...

GreeBo

I guess I was thinking that you could break the exterior part of the bend and fit a new 32mm one outside into the drain.
You'd have to live with not using the washing machine and the dishwasher at the same time until you fix it properly, but if you can tec7 it in the all the better.

whosedaddy?

I understand.. can't do that without brickwork.. and didn't fancy it at this stage... I'm putting it all back together for now - so we have appliances back working... one at a time..

whosedaddy?

After gluing it with tec7 during the week, I decided to rip it out after all...
I found an area outside where to cut the existing pipe (which is 40mm) and fit a pushfit connector. Then replaced the piece going through the wall and after a lot of pushing/pulling and swearing the two pipes connected properly..

No risk of leaking into the wall anymore

And thanks for all the comments and advise..