Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back from 1 to 10+ pages to re-sync the thread and this will then show the latest posts. Thanks, Mike.
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Timing Belt Zafira

  • 02-03-2010 4:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,473 ✭✭✭


    one of my cars is due a timing belt change,
    opel Zafira 1.6

    a timing belt is something i have never done before, but want to give it a go...
    no problems striping the parts of the block to get to the belt, and mrking up the pulleys so i know heir exact position

    what i am looking for is info on when i put the new belt on, do i need any special tools to verify the belt is running correctly??


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,438 ✭✭✭✭El Guapo!


    To be honest I wouldnt reccommend changing it yourself. Im not doubting your ability but its really a job for a mechanic or a really confident and capable DIY'er. Its not that its overly hard to do, its just the slightest mistake and your in serious and expensive trouble.
    If your dead set on doing it then get a Haynes manual for the car and follow it to the letter. And remember, when the new belt is on, turn it over by hand a few times and check and re-check the timing marks and the tension of the belt. Good luck. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Getting the belt tension right is something that takes a bit of practise and someone who knows what they are doing watching over you. Too loose and the timing will end up out and the belt could slip. Too tight and you could end up with a prematurely failing belt or some belts whine when over tightened.

    I would advise getting someone to do it for you and if you know them well enough give them a hand and learn that way.

    The problem with a hayes manual or the likes is that they never allow for the job to go pear shaped so if you ring a bolt or break something you are proper screwed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,473 ✭✭✭robtri


    appreciate the feedback lads..
    i understand that its a tricky job..
    and i am not too unfilmiliar with serious car DIY tasks...

    so is there a specific tool to test the belt after its installed??
    so i can check the correct tension on the belt/running correctly..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    I'm pretty sure that there's alignment marks on the tensioner (Maybe someone else can confirm) You rotate the tensioner clockwise to align the marks, rotate the engine by hand (2 full revolutions of the crank) and recheck all the marks; the crank, cam and tensioner marks. Odds are that it'll take 2 or 3 attempts to get the tension correct. There should be some sort of instruction guide regarding tensioning the belt included in the kit.

    The waterpump has to be changed as well - this can be more problematic if you don't know what you're doing. Make sure the old seal is taken out of the block (has a tendancy to stick) and be very careful when tightening the bolts that hold it on - very easy to over-tighten:mad:

    You would need the front of the car suspended with axle stands and a good trolley jack to support/raise/lower the engine - the drivers side engine mount will have to be removed.

    EDIT: The engine has to be cold when replacing the belt, otherwise the tension will be incorrect - also, it's not nice to have scalding coolant dribbling on you!


Advertisement