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Multi-fuel stoves

  • 04-03-2010 11:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 24


    I am looking for advice on multi-fuel stoves form qualified plumbers.
    I have it narrowed down to the Charnwood 16B model
    The Blacksmith Forge model
    The Stratford ECO-Boiler SEB 20
    And the Mulberry
    Which stove should I choose?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 50 ✭✭volvo 240


    I am looking for advice on multi-fuel stoves form qualified plumbers.
    I have it narrowed down to the Charnwood 16B model
    The Blacksmith Forge model
    The Stratford ECO-Boiler SEB 20
    And the Mulberry
    Which stove should I choose?

    I have had a quick look at the other stoves ie the forge, stratford and mulberry.
    Out of your list I would go with charnwood as they have a great reputation for quality, nearly as good quality as clearview but cheaper to buy. The other stove I like is the dunsley yorkshire multifuel boiler stove, very well made and smoke free. Very efficient and clean burning with wood. Clearview are very much worth considering if you have around 2.000 pounds to buy the boiler version 650 or 750 model. About the rolls royce of stove apparently.
    Dunsley stoves.
    http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm
    Clearview 750etc
    http://www.clearviewstoves.com/clearview750.htm
    A review of different stoves by owners. Website just launched.
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/
    We have a villager AHI woodburning boiler stove heating all of our radiators very well. It cost us 780 pounds new. You would need a large room as it chucks out around 5kw to the room on full pelt and 13kw to rads etc!! http://www.villager.co.uk/ Website being updated!!
    What are you looking for in regard boiler output and stove output to room? What is the size of your fireplace if its to be inset? I may have some other suggestions. When I visited Ireland recently I was surprised how much stoves are in Ireland. I may buy a stove in the UK and bring it with me if the price is much higher.
    James:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 24 The Barrier


    Thanks James. I was pretty impressed with the charnwood 16b but its hard to know what to believe from the salesmen. The Yorkshire Dunsley looks to be a solid performer as well. I was looking at a 17kw-18kw stove. With 5kw to 6kw output to the room and 13kw to the water/ radiators etc.. I looking to heat 12 radiators.
    If it came down to it would it be the Dunsley or the charnwood or are they too close to seperate?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 50 ✭✭volvo 240


    [IMG][/IMG]
    Thanks James. I was pretty impressed with the charnwood 16b but its hard to know what to believe from the salesmen. The Yorkshire Dunsley looks to be a solid performer as well. I was looking at a 17kw-18kw stove. With 5kw to 6kw output to the room and 13kw to the water/ radiators etc.. I looking to heat 12 radiators.
    If it came down to it would it be the Dunsley or the charnwood or are they too close to seperate?

    Hi I would really need to know what size radiators you need to heat as even though manufacturers state a number of radiators it's generally single panel ones around 600mm by 1000mm single and not doubles. It is a quide only and requires a heat loss calculation of the various rooms or a measurement of the existing radiators to get their rough outputs in kilowatts, then add them all up and it will give you the boiler output required and also add on 3kw for hot water. If you are running 12 large double radiators and hot water I would say both stoves would not have a powerfull enough boiler. As they are basically around 10 kilowatts. Our villager stove has a 13kw 45,000btu boiler and is running 12.3kw of radiators. We burn wood only but it does use around 15-20 cubic metres of softwood/hardwood mix of wood. The wood is cheap here in France and costs us between 500-700 euros and lasts us 7 months of heating and is lit virtually 24 hours a day. Villager stoves are not as good quality as Charnwood or Dunsley but cost half as much. 780 pounds for the AHI. We are happy with ours. I would burn house coal on it with the optional multifuel grate in Ireland as coal is far cheaper in Ireland than in France. I would estimate we would use 2 tonnes of coal. I do like the idea of the thermostat control as it allows you to leave the stove to self regulate itself by automatically opening or closing the air supply. Opens the air intake for more heat and when the temperature of the system water is hot enough it closes the air supply. With our villager we have to do this manually, but we have the air intake slides fully open in the coldest months most of the time.

    VillagerAHIwoodburner.jpg

    Our villager boiler stove. James:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,033 ✭✭✭✭Dempo1


    Hi James, just came across this thread and looking for some advice if i may. I am looking at installing a wood burning stove in a log cabin style extension to my house. My dilemma is the cost of a stainless steel chimney. I understand it has to be double insulated.

    In addition i have a slight complication on the material used to build the extension, essentially it is made up of Hard work cladding (exterior) on marine ply, insulation and plaster board finish inside, the walls would be relatively thin. Building a chimney would work out cheaper based on quotes so far but its not an option with a wood cladded exterior finish.The chimney would need to extend at least 10ft from the elbow up wards and its a one story extension. Basically i am looking for additional heating in what is a very large room. I have central heating and the stove is just to compliment this.
    Stoves are very competitively priced at the moment, the problem is the cost of the chimney. And guidance would be appreciated.

    Joey

    Is maith an scáthán súil charad.




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 50 ✭✭volvo 240


    Dempo1 wrote: »
    Hi James, just came across this thread and looking for some advice if i may. I am looking at installing a wood burning stove in a log cabin style extension to my house. My dilemma is the cost of a stainless steel chimney. I understand it has to be double insulated.

    In addition i have a slight complication on the material used to build the extension, essentially it is made up of Hard work cladding (exterior) on marine ply, insulation and plaster board finish inside, the walls would be relatively thin. Building a chimney would work out cheaper based on quotes so far but its not an option with a wood cladded exterior finish.The chimney would need to extend at least 10ft from the elbow up wards and its a one story extension. Basically i am looking for additional heating in what is a very large room. I have central heating and the stove is just to compliment this.
    Stoves are very competitively priced at the moment, the problem is the cost of the chimney. And guidance would be appreciated.

    Joey

    Yes you would need a double insulated stainless steel chimney installing. It is very expensive as you know:( In our house in France I built a new chimney out of sectional clay chimney blocks that you cement together and they also interlock. You may of been quoted for a similar system. Building it myself the 7 metre chimney with all materials and a stainless steel liner inside cost around 350 euros. The french chimney blocks (boisseau) are about 10 euros for around 34cm height. Do you really want to install a stove as the flue will cost more than the stove? You could have the heating system extended cheaper if the boiler has enough power capacity. Hope you find a cheaper solution.
    A link to the French flue blocks.
    http://www.bricodepot.fr/carpiquet/node/467507
    James:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,033 ✭✭✭✭Dempo1


    volvo 240 wrote: »
    Yes you would need a double insulated stainless steel chimney installing. It is very expensive as you know:( In our house in France I built a new chimney out of sectional clay chimney blocks that you cement together and they also interlock. You may of been quoted for a similar system. Building it myself the 7 metre chimney with all materials and a stainless steel liner inside cost around 350 euros. The French chimney blocks (boisseau) are about 8 euros for around 34cm height. Do you really want to install a stove as the flue will cost more than the stove? You could have the heating system extended cheaper if the boiler has enough power capacity. Hope you find a cheaper solution. James:)

    Thanks for that James, your solution with the sectional clay chimney seems like an excellent solution, unfortunately the exterior of my extension is cladded in hard word so this probably would not work for me. I had considered extending my system but there is the challenge of pipe work etc which would probably drive the price up. Its amazing as the stainless steel chimney could work out almost three times the price of the stove? Catch 22 i guess:)

    Is maith an scáthán súil charad.




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 50 ✭✭volvo 240


    Dempo1 wrote: »
    Thanks for that James, your solution with the sectional clay chimney seems like an excellent solution, unfortunately the exterior of my extension is cladded in hard word so this probably would not work for me. I had considered extending my system but there is the challenge of pipe work etc which would probably drive the price up. Its amazing as the stainless steel chimney could work out almost three times the price of the stove? Catch 22 i guess:)

    The French made flue blocks can be installed inside or outside but they have to be kept 16cm away from anything flammable. If they pass through a floor or roof etc the 16cm wide gap/void has to be filled with concrete around where the chimney comes through. All manufacturers have different regulations on the closeness to flammable materials but in your situation it would sound easier to built it internal.
    http://www.fftb.org/tbffpr00.htm Click boisseau on left menu. See if you can buy something similar. I would say a builder would take 2 and a half days to build. It took me 3 days!!
    Good luck James:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,033 ✭✭✭✭Dempo1


    volvo 240 wrote: »
    The French made flue blocks can be installed inside or outside but they have to be kept 16cm away from anything flammable. If they pass through a floor or roof etc the 16cm wide gap/void has to be filled with concrete around where the chimney comes through. All manufacturers have different regulations on the closeness to flammable materials but in your situation it would sound easier to built it internal.
    http://www.fftb.org/tbffpr00.htm Click boisseau on left menu. See if you can buy something similar. I would say a builder would take 2 and a half days to build. It took me 3 days!!
    Good luck James:)

    Fantastic James, and thank you for the link, i'll have to brush up on my french! LOL

    Is maith an scáthán súil charad.




  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Just bought a Stovax Stockton 8 multi fuel stove.

    Amazing stove and by god does is chuck out some amount of heat.

    Also,it is even more amazing when you have well insulated house as the heat has nowhere to go.so the house stays very warm and cosy for a long time.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15 Poppy2


    We are currently looking around for a mutifuel stove for our living room. It must be capable of heating the whole house if we require it and this equates to approx 75,000 BTU's by my calculation.
    Really like the look of the Villager stove you posted above James and hence this is one reason I was drawn to the Hunter stoves. People have said to me that we'd need a train going from the shed where our fuel will be to the stove all day if we purchase a Hunter 80B!!
    Anyone any suggestions on any other stoves that could throw out this much heat to a house?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 103 ✭✭Tiger72


    Hi i'm also wondering does anybody have any Stratford Boiler Stove ? In particular the Stratford TF90B i see that it throws out 82000 BTU's .I would be hoping to heat most of the house with it as i have insulated the house (2500 sq feet) really well with 6" in the floor and 6" on walls between the cavity and insulated slab.


  • Site Banned Posts: 344 ✭✭johneym


    hi Volvo,


    do you mind if I ask about you fireplace? I really like the look of it. Is it an old conventional chimney which you converted? Is the lintel timber?

    Thanks a lo

    John


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 buckrogers1


    I bought a Mulberry joyce stove stove 4tmonths ago.
    The firebed cracked when first used and now the rear firebrick has cracked.
    The company have given lots of excuses and said they would send the replacements for me to fit myself.
    Still waiting !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    A company that doesn't honour its guarantees, perhaps because their stoves are made in Ireland -you have no come-back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 127 ✭✭CashMoney


    A company that doesn't honour its guarantees, perhaps because their stoves are made in Ireland -you have no come-back.

    Not sure exactly what you mean by this.....however I'm pretty sure Mulberry stoves are manufactured in China (probably in the same factory as waterford stanley).


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    CashMoney wrote: »
    Not sure exactly what you mean by this.....however I'm pretty sure Mulberry stoves are manufactured in China (probably in the same factory as waterford stanley).


    Sure everything is made in China these days.:(

    And if it aint made in China yet,then it soon will be.:pac::pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    johneym wrote: »
    hi Volvo,


    do you mind if I ask about you fireplace? I really like the look of it. Is it an old conventional chimney which you converted? Is the lintel timber?

    Thanks a lo

    John

    Hope you are still around. Only just looked at this post:rolleyes:

    There was no fireplace in the room and no chimney. I built the fireplace out of brick and concrete blocks and rendered them. The clay pre fabricated block chimney is on the other side of the thick stone wall. The stove is flued through the wall using a 45 degree bend and then connects to the stainless steel liner that goes up inside the pre cast flue blocks. The chimney breast is false it's just fireproof board and metal railing. Just above the wooden lintel/beam the closure plate I cast in concrete 4 inches thick. This was done to stop heat from going up the false chimney breast. Glad you liked it, Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Kateof1


    Hi just wondering what stove to buy. We have it down to a Stanley Reginald a hunter or a Charnwood. It would be heating 11 double rads. Any suggestions.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24 The Barrier


    All three are excellent stoves. We went for the hunter 14 and we have no regrets. That said I like the look of the Stanley and I have heard great reports about the Charnwood. All three are quite big stoves and it does take quite a lot of fuel to keep them going. It still works out cheeper that oil though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 old westie


    Hi all

    does anyone have a Mulberry Beckett or a Blacksmith Forge boiler stove - how do they compare for best value and are they reliable


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 raisinette


    I'm putting in an inset stove into our sitting room but have a question for the plumbers. Our houses (4bed det, 20yo) were originally offered with a back boiler in the fireplace that we didn't get. However, I do have copper pipes (3/4") running up the side of the breast to the upstairs. The hot cylinder is upstairs as per normal, standard gravity fed system and no zones. Our kerosene boiler is just outside and we're well insulated.
    My question is whether we can use these 3/4" pipes for the inset boiler or whether they need replacing with 1" from the fireplace upstairs to the hot-press cylinder which others are saying.
    Every other plumber gives me a different opinion and I'm confused.
    On a similar vein, I'm looking at the Charnwood SLX45i which says 4.6kw/h to the room and 9.7kw/h to the boiler. I have the equivalent of 8 1m single rads downstairs and about 6 1m singles upstairs. Is this too many? We're in the house all day so cold-to-heat time doesn't bother us too much as we can light it early in the day. The other more powerful stoves just look very 'rustic'. Any ideas welcome.
    Thanks,
    J


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 56 ✭✭dhaslam


    old westie wrote: »
    Hi all

    does anyone have a Mulberry Beckett or a Blacksmith Forge boiler stove - how do they compare for best value and are they reliable

    I had a Beckett with back boiler for a few years. It never worked properly, boiler output maximum was about 2 kW. The problem seemed to be combustion temperature being too low caused by poor firebox design and possibly the air inlet being too small. It was removed last year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 caitni2000


    All three are excellent stoves. We went for the hunter 14 and we have no regrets. That said I like the look of the Stanley and I have heard great reports about the Charnwood. All three are quite big stoves and it does take quite a lot of fuel to keep them going. It still works out cheeper that oil though.


    Hi The barrier,
    Good to see some years on from your original post and you decided on a hunter 14. After ~4 weeks of research I have narrowed to this stove because it is 100% british steel, no chinese parts and the rated output sounds like it will work for my house, plus it is more affordable than others recommended which are non-chinese.

    A little anxious on the fuel consumption. I also read on another forum there was a lot of smoke when the door was open, I take it you have had no concerns?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    Hi Guys,

    I'm wondering can anybody help. New build project, free standing stove to heat 12 double rads, not heating hot water as I have solar panels to look after this. House is well insulated with 6 inch cavity pumped, insulated slabs on all external walls and airtightness tape around all windows and doors. The stove in in the middle of a kitchen come dining with sunroom to the side. I'm on the verge of buying the Charnwood 16B country multifuel.
    I'm just wondering has anybody had same stove demands as this and what did you go for?
    Or if anyone knows will the charnwood fit my needs above.
    Thank you
    Rich


  • Registered Users Posts: 58 ✭✭dugger


    Richard P wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    I'm wondering can anybody help. New build project, free standing stove to heat 12 double rads, not heating hot water as I have solar panels to look after this. House is well insulated with 6 inch cavity pumped, insulated slabs on all external walls and airtightness tape around all windows and doors. The stove in in the middle of a kitchen come dining with sunroom to the side. I'm on the verge of buying the Charnwood 16B country multifuel.
    I'm just wondering has anybody had same stove demands as this and what did you go for?
    Or if anyone knows will the charnwood fit my needs above.
    Thank you
    Rich
    The new Pierce stoves I saw at ploughing has an 18k, new to the market from the factory that used to make the Stanley boilers in Wexford


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭patsyrockem


    Hi Richard I have a very similar project as yourself and was being pushed towards a Stanley erin but having seen the Charnwood 16 today I am starting to edge that way. My stove will be in our kitchen come living area and is a pretty big room, 9m x 5m approx with 10 double rads. It looks and feels a lot more solid than any other stove I have seen. Have you made up your mind yet? Anyone else with any advice?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    I spoke to a lady who got the charnwood 16b and she said she running 10 double rads and she has plenty hot water also for couple of days from when she lights the stove. she said don't even think sbout it and go for it. she has an old two story house with I presume old style plumbing etc. A good idea might be to ring charnwood dealers and ask for testimonials from people who havebought the 16b with simiar heating needs.
    anybody else have any views or experience?
    Thanks
    Richard


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭patsyrockem


    Thanks Richard, did you go for the Charnwood eventually? Anyone else out there that might share their experience of the Charnwood 16b either good or bad.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    I have ordered the Charnwood 16 B country multifuel. Fitting it on Saturday but won't be functional for a while. Will let u know how it goes. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭patsyrockem


    Hi Richard, we are close to fitting our Charnwood, have you got yours up and running yet?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭Flippyfloppy


    Hi just hoping to get advice here. Really want a stove for our house.

    Will need to change current fireplace to open fire. Is this just as simple to get a bricklayer in?

    Also looking for an affordable option without compromising too much on style or quality. Have seen a place advertised near the m50 that do really cheap stoves.


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 fredgalway


    Hi Flippyfloppy my advice would be to stay away from bargain stoves.You do get what you pay for. Have a look at the Dru multifuel one of the best room heaters I have come across. As to cost of fitting same it really does depend on fireplace ,chimney liner etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    Hi Patsy,
    I have not fitted mine yet, we are a few weeks off that yet. will let you know how we go though.
    how many rad's must you heat?, it is free standing or flue up chimney/out through wall. what other heating do you have? what did your plumber advise?
    hope all goes well for you, let me know how you go.

    Thanks
    Richard P


  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭cpg093


    We have just fitted a Charnwood slx multifuel insert stove with a back boiler. I have to say it is a great stove. We have the heating zoned downstairs and upstairs it's heating 7 double rads downstairs and 6 upstairs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    I'm delighted. Were close enough to firing ours up so will let you know. thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭patsyrockem


    Ours is fitted too but not ready for a few days to fire up. It is straight flue up the chimney. Looking forward to it. Here's hoping it goes well for everyone. I have put my neck on the line with this stove, herself still has to be convinced;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭patsyrockem


    I lit our new stove for the first time at the weekend, very impressed so far but our full system is not working yet so it'll be another few weeks before I have the full picture. Fire started up no bother and seems very efficient with fuel and a lovely flame. Any luck with yours Richard?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Richard P


    I very happy with the stove also. light the stove for an hour and all 11 rads get hot. the only problem i'm having is that I can't keep the glass clean. any tips or advice.

    Our stove is free standing with twin flue into chimney in attic. i'm surprised how hot the twin wall gets in the attic. the twinwall singed insulation around a copper pipe. i've heard twinwall must have air circulation all the way round to ensure nothing catches fire.

    keep the posts coming


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