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Chainsaw chains

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  • 12-03-2010 6:42pm
    #1
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭


    Just a quick question, How long should a chainsaw chain last before it needs replacing?

    I ask because I have just bought a new chainsaw (first one I've owned!) and have only had about 5 hours use out of it and it appears to be blunt!

    Was it just a cheap chain, or have I done something wrong!!


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    #2
    Degsy
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,397 ✭✭✭✭Degsy


    Deleted User wrote: »
    Just a quick question, How long should a chainsaw chain last before it needs replacing?

    I ask because I have just bought a new chainsaw (first one I've owned!) and have only had about 5 hours use out of it and it appears to be blunt!

    Was it just a cheap chain, or have I done something wrong!!

    Depends on teh trees you're cutting..something like elm will blunt the blade much faster than a sofet wood like pine.
    Have you hit any nails or wire?
    Has the chain come in contact with the soil at all?
    Obvioulsy cheap chains will blunt much faster than a quality one and ofr that reason they are a false economy but even a good chain should be touched up after every few hours of solid cutting.


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    #3
    Greenman
    Registered Users Posts: 2,962 ✭✭✭Greenman


    What chainsaw did you get?

    I use a Sthil, great saw.

    Look at this, its really easy.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkpMwpzE48Q


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    #4
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Degsy wrote: »
    Depends on teh trees you're cutting..something like elm will blunt the blade much faster than a sofet wood like pine.
    Have you hit any nails or wire?
    Has the chain come in contact with the soil at all?
    Obvioulsy cheap chains will blunt much faster than a quality one and ofr that reason they are a false economy but even a good chain should be touched up after every few hours of solid cutting.

    It was a cheapo saw & chain, so I didn't expect too much from it just more than 5 hours!

    The tree had already fallen and the timber is already "seasoned" hard as nails! so that's probably what speeded up the wear.


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    #5
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Greenman wrote: »
    What chainsaw did you get?

    I use a Sthil, great saw.

    Look at this, its really easy.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkpMwpzE48Q

    It was a no-name cheapo! :rolleyes: (yes I know!)

    Great video, there is a file supplied with the saw, so I will try and sharpen it tomorrow.


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    #6
    stackerman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭stackerman


    You did use chain oil, right :o ?


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    #7
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    keving wrote: »
    You did use chain oil, right :o ?
    yep! ;)


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    #8
    stackerman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭stackerman


    Believe it or not I know 2 guys that made that mistake :eek:
    Had to ask ;)


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    #9
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    5 hrs is a very long time without sharpening the chain.
    I usually touch mine up freehand every tank fill, If I feel it has lost too much edge I change it for a fresh sharp one. A sharp chain is critical to the performance of the saw, a dull chain is nearly worthless, in time fuel and wear and tear on the saw.
    It only takes a light touch on a rock or dirt and the chain will be dull.
    Learn to sharpen freehand or better yet use Oregon chain and their own roller file guide. There is a model that has a built in raker gauge for soft or hardwoods and it is excellent.


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    #10
    mendel
    Closed Accounts Posts: 100 ✭✭mendel


    Hi can i ask a question, how do i touch up the chainsaw? I am having this problem. Using chain oil but what do i need to sharpen the blade?

    thanks for help.


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    #11
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    You need the correct file for your chain, Now it could be 3/8 lo profile, 3/8 standard profile, or .325 pitch.
    There are others like .404 but they are for harvesting machinery or race saws and so fall out side this discussion.
    So you need to find the correct file and at the same time it is usually worth getting a tool to help you find the correct angle (usually 30 deg.)
    If you use Oregon chain Husky or oregon sell a great little guide that fits over the chain and has rollers that allow you to file at the correct angle and height for the tooth.
    Stihl chain is quite a bit harder to file for novices, it can be done but not as easily and I wouldn't recommend starting out with it.
    However you can buy a file kit from Oregon that will allow you to gauge the angle, not as easy but still better than freehand.

    Now this is easiest done in a bench vice but failing that you at least need a bench that will allow you to work at a comfortable height.
    Rotate the chain till you find two cutters that are behind each other or mark a cutting tooth with a permanent marker and start from there.
    File from the inside out slowly and count the strokes you make,(this is to try and ensure cutter length remains even) until the cutting edge is renewed, and if the top edge is burred it should be clean with no dull spots or folded edge.
    Cutter length is important because if you rock a chain, usually all one sides cutters are damaged and need to be filed back, if only one side is filed back the cutters will be shorter and the saw will cut in a curve.
    Carlton chain has a great guide which explains a lot about saw chain and how it cuts.
    I have attached the PDF for download if you are interested.
    But the best advice I can give is to start filing, the more you do the better you get.


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    #12
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    keving wrote: »
    Believe it or not I know 2 guys that made that mistake :eek:
    Had to ask ;)

    Fortunately I read the instructions, otherwise I'd have never known about the oil!

    I nearly bought a secondhand saw, chances are I would have run that one without oil.


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    #13
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    All sharpened up now and running well, just didn't realise that they needed sharpening so often.

    Thanks all. :)


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    #14
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clPYfaTvHT0

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clPYfaTvHT0

    this has also got some useful info on the subject


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    #15
    cavanman3000
    Closed Accounts Posts: 14 ✭cavanman3000


    why is stihl chain harder to sharpen?

    i know they hold their temper better when using a chain sharpening grinder, and are not as soft.,but dont see how they are harder to sharpen.

    the trick with sharpening is not to put too much of an angle on the tooth or too flat. the correct angle is 30 degrees.


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    #16
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Stihl Cutters have more chromium in them and they are a harder metal.
    Although the new Oregon X Series are hard as well.
    I don't like using grinders, in my experience they are used injudiciously and most chains that I see that have been machine ground have been annealed and have soft cutters.
    You can get good results but the rule of thumb is if you see sparks you are taking too much material off.
    Some like 30º on the top plate angle others like 35º of they are cutting clean softwood. It all depends on the use and the chain.
    The fastest chain is square ground but I only ever used it and am not skilled enough to grind it.


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