E39 530d Purchasing Advice Needed

BlackWizard

Well after buying a car only a month ago I'm now looking to change again.

I'm driving an automatic X-trail. It's really comfortable to drive and has leather seats and lots of perks. But the 2 litre petrol engine is just no fun and isn't great at cruising at high speeds

So I took a BMW 530d for a test drive today. It was fairly powerful and the automatic gearbox was very smooth. The cabin isn't as big as an x-trail but it makes up for this in other areas. Seat was comfy even for my 6'3 height. Braking was very nice and cornering seemed just normal for a saloon car. It's actually a lot more comfortable to drive than I thought. I haven't really heard that many people talk about how comfortable they are to drive.

Basically I'm looking for advice on things that I can check out for on these cars? Are there any common problems? It has a FSH and around 62k miles on it.

Do they need a timing belt changed?

Also the radio in it looks odd in that I'm not sure I can fit a normal Lidl car stereo onto it. Is this correct?

And lastly anyone got any online resources I can read up on for these cars? I'm really not sure about what to check when I bring my dad out to inspect the car. The engine just sounded like a normal diesel engine except a bit smoother.

unkel

It has a timing chain (not a belt), which doesn't need changing. One less worry!

What model is it, E39 or E60?

BlackWizard

It's an E39. I don't like the newer models even if I had the money

E39MSport

Bit of info here: -
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055802453

We just spent 700 lids on rear control arms at 93k miles.

Spent 2 grand a few months back on prop shaft maintenance, engine mounts, brakes and a few other bits.

Expecting a cooling system replacement at 100k next.

voxpop

Do you really need a cooling system replacement at 100k. I hear the guys in the states recommend it but their system are under more strain than here. Maybe budget for a water pump and thermostat - the rest can be pressure tested to be on the safe side


Bit of info here

This is pretty good aswell - >E39 checks

ShiresV2

voxpop wrote: »

Do you really need a cooling system replacement at 100k. I hear the guys in the states recommend it but their system are under more strain than here.

Suspect the same thing, many of the yanks drive the V8 petrols which run quite a bit hotter than the 6 cylinder petrol and diesel examples we see here.

That said I did replace the belts, water pump and thermostat in my E39 as they do wear..

E39MSport

ShiresV2 wrote: »

Suspect the same thing, many of the yanks drive the V8 petrols which run quite a bit hotter than the 6 cylinder petrol and diesel examples we see here.

That said I did replace the belts, water pump and thermostat in my E39 as they do wear..

I thought the problem was caused by crappy bmw plastic rad neck or somehting like that?

A m8 of mine in the UK with a 325 had his rad replaced recently because it had bowed. He has about 90k on his.

BlackWizard

voxpop wrote: »

Do you really need a cooling system replacement at 100k. I hear the guys in the states recommend it but their system are under more strain than here. Maybe budget for a water pump and thermostat - the rest can be pressure tested to be on the safe side


Bit of info here

This is pretty good aswell - >E39 checks

THanks for the links.

I've read and printed out loads of stuff about the car today. I'm not really too worried about it now. I know that work will have to be done on it over the years, but I'm happy enough knowing about whats coming up. The car hasn't got that many miles on it and it has a service history too. There doesn't seem to many issues with the engine in general. Just seems to be faults with the car body and cooling.

I'm concerned about the gearbox oil. Its an autobox so does anyone know for sure if I should change the oil on it?

Also I read a few things about a air flow part coming loose and destroying some of the BMW diesel engines. Is this fault on the 530d?

Is there two different power outputs of this engine? I read somewhere of a M57 and another type.

Thanks for all the info guys!

Leonard Hofstadter

Don't BMW use plastic water impellers which is why the cooling system can give trouble?

The first thing I'd do OP is get the engine "de-flapped". 530ds from back then are notorious for injesting swirl flaps(inlet manifold flaps) and it's bye bye engine if this happens.

Apparently the flaps can be removed and it makes no difference whatsoever to the running of the engine so there is no reason to keep them IMO.

SpannerMonkey

Biggest thing to watch is the intake manifold it's common for it to split and the turbo is a common failure if service intervals are too far apart also watch for swirl flaps in the intake manifold which can brake off and wreck engine I own a E46 330d it has the same engine I have had intake split and turbo fail on me , but I still love the car an would highly recommend the 530d, I'm on my 8th BMW and wouldn't change from them

BlackWizard

Is there any way to spot signs that the inlet manifold is going to split?

ShadowHearth

was thinking of getting e39, as they do go prety cheap, thought looks really alot of trouble...


not interested in power, as i need it as daily driver, but would 520 2.2, whould be as bi*chy as 530d?

voxpop

BlackWizard wrote: »

THanks for the links.
I'm concerned about the gearbox oil. Its an autobox so does anyone know for sure if I should change the oil on it?

Also I read a few things about a air flow part coming loose and destroying some of the BMW diesel engines. Is this fault on the 530d?

Info about swirl flaps here

Gearbox oil is generally states as "sealed for life", however most ppl would change the oil maybe at 80 or 100k miles - its usually an easy enough job.

The issues with cooling (which I wouldnt worry about) are, thermostat leaking or sticking, waterpump failing, general leaks/cracks in the pipework and rad neck cracking. Most of these issues can be spotted if you regularly check your engine (i.e. coolant loss, drops of coolant on the undershield, white residue on pipework). Also make sure when driving the car that the temp needle moves to the 12 o'clock position steadily and sticks there without budging. Because alot of ppl dont know much about cars, they will driver their bimmer with it overheating or low on coolant - thats when you get problems, so do the normal head gasket checkes (white residue on underside of oil cap, white smoke on revs (after the car has warmed up).


I took the plunge recently and moved from a golf to a 523 (E39). The best advice I could give you is to know things are going to cost more. A big bmw will always cost more to run and service than a smaller hatchback or small saloon. For example, as mentioned the suspension is complex enough, so when you need bushes replaced (and you will) its labour intensive (compared to simpler cars) so its gonna cost more. I just got 2 rear bushes and it was the guts of 500 quid from an indy.

ShadowHearth wrote:

but would 520 2.2, whould be as bi*chy as 530d?

You still have the coolant system issues, but the petrol engines are simpler and so less to go wrong (ie no swirl flaps,no turbo,etc). I also went for a manual (its an older E39 so resale isnt an issue) to avoid any autobox issues. Personally I would say go for the 170bhp 520 if you can. My 523 is 170 and its just about enough in my opinion, wanted a 525 but they are scarce here.

SpannerMonkey

Hard to tell if it will happen but there are ways to help reduce the risk , as others have said get the swirl flaps removed it's not expensive a company in uk called Pbmw supply the blanks , check the egr valve is clean these get blocked on all diesel cars and reduce flow of air so clean that out , also change engine breather filter , will probably never have been changed , it will help save your turbo , and change oil and, the air filter. Just think of it as a service I know it sounds a lot but really isn't expensive and will keep your car healthy

ps you can't compare a 530d to a 520i , the 520i is very underpowered and if you do mostly city driveing is thirsty , the 530d is refined quick and very economical

ShiresV2

ShadowHearth wrote: »

was thinking of getting e39, as they do go prety cheap, thought looks really alot of trouble...


not interested in power, as i need it as daily driver, but would 520 2.2, whould be as bi*chy as 530d?

I have a 2.2 manual and it's fine as daily driver. Can't advise about the auto. Not quick off the mark as it's heavy (8.5 - 9 seconds 0-100 depending on who you ask). Once moving it's nippy enough and always happy to accelerate, but bear in mind it's not really a performance car so won't set your hair on fire.

Like any other car the petrols can suffer from vacuum leaks and have their own particular problems that sap performance and economy. When I was looking for my car about half of the petrol E39s I tried felt down on power. I think it's useful to drive a few and get a sense of how the car should be.

Final piece of advice, to drive a big old luxobarge you'd want to be either handy with the spanners, or handy with the money.

voxpop

ShiresV2 wrote: »

Final piece of advice, to drive a big old luxobarge you'd want to be either handy with the spanners, or handy with the money.

Amen to that !


The amount of niggly stuff alone, means that you need to be happy to get your hands dirty imo

ShadowHearth

ShiresV2 wrote: »

I have a 2.2 manual and it's fine as daily driver. Can't advise about the auto. Not quick off the mark as it's heavy (8.5 - 9 seconds 0-100 depending on who you ask). Once moving it's nippy enough and always happy to accelerate, but bear in mind it's not really a performance car so won't set your hair on fire.

Like any other car the petrols can suffer from vacuum leaks and have their own particular problems that sap performance and economy. When I was looking for my car about half of the petrol E39s I tried felt down on power. I think it's useful to drive a few and get a sense of how the car should be.

Final piece of advice, to drive a big old luxobarge you'd want to be either handy with the spanners, or handy with the money.

first of all thank you for good reply.

As i said i am not interested in power, as i am looking for daily/misses driver/shoping cart. I got mx5 "10AE" for mine fast/fun experience, or as you have said: set mine hair on fire ( need daily driver, so i can get some time of for mx5 to slam turbo kit on it).

Had an clk200 aswell, so i know how german luxo barges like to behave, specially suspention after lovely irish roads.

so i better stay away from automatics, got it. What about nikosil problem? i know 7 series before 97 had problem. what about 5 series?

voxpop

ShadowHearth wrote: »

What about nikosil problem? i know 7 series before 97 had problem. what about 5 series?

Nikasil issue is only with a few engines(M52 i think) and is only really an issue if the car is a uk import (due to high sulphur in uk petrol in late 90s). Anyway, personally, I think if the car hasnt died yet, it doesnt have an issue.

Matt Simis

ShiresV2 wrote: »

Final piece of advice, to drive a big old luxobarge you'd want to be either handy with the spanners, or handy with the money.

The 5... a luxobarge? Its neither luxurious or a barge.

SpannerMonkey

Nikasil won't affect any car after 2000;) and as said the 5 series is not a luxobarge , a luxobarge is classed as a BMW 7 series, audi A8 or mercedes S-Class etc nothing smaller ;)They are called barges because they are as big as a barge

ShiresV2

davy_b wrote: »

Nikasil won't affect any car after 2000;) and as said the 5 series is not a luxobarge , a luxobarge is classed as a BMW 7 series, audi A8 or mercedes S-Class etc nothing smaller ;)They are called barges because they are as big as a barge

I stand corrected so!

ShadowHearth

davy_b wrote: »

Nikasil won't affect any car after 2000;) and as said the 5 series is not a luxobarge , a luxobarge is classed as a BMW 7 series, audi A8 or mercedes S-Class etc nothing smaller ;)They are called barges because they are as big as a barge

well mine clk200 had more luxury then any avarage yoke. for a coupe it was huge aswell, i will still call it luxobarge .

mercs/bmws are a luxory category anyway... Thought i stll cant believe it... why would anyone back in the day order 5 series / e200 with no leather seats... its so stupid...

MojoMaker

Maybe because on some models they're actually more comfortable and actually look better - E60 for starters. One day you might get lucky

ShadowHearth

MojoMaker wrote: »

Maybe because on some models they're actually more comfortable and actually look better - E60 for starters. One day you might get lucky

honestly go now to carzone.ie and check every add of e39, then compare it to leather and non leather ones, then come back here

And its leather, YEAH BABE!

BlackWizard

My last two cars had leather. Personally I choose not to go with leather this time. I think leather looks 10x better. But I dont like getting into cold leather seats and sometimes on long journeys my lower back gets a bit moist or sticky.

Anyone know if this guide would help me with my e39 swirl flaps? I'm a bit of a DIY person but I do need a guide on doing something like this. http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf

I'm also looking for some guide or tips on cleaning the EGR valve...Anyone got any?

And by the way I dont think the 5 series is a luxury barge. I would describe it as an executive saloon. The 3 series is just a normal saloon to me.

edit: found a nice EGR removal tutorial http://home.tiscali.nl/luuk60/

mondeo

BlackWizard wrote: »

My last two cars had leather. Personally I choose not to go with leather this time. I think leather looks 10x better. But I dont like getting into cold leather seats and sometimes on long journeys my lower back gets a bit moist or sticky.

Anyone know if this guide would help me with my e39 swirl flaps? I'm a bit of a DIY person but I do need a guide on doing something like this. http://www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf

I'm also looking for some guide or tips on cleaning the EGR valve...Anyone got any?

And by the way I dont think the 5 series is a luxury barge. I would describe it as an executive saloon. The 3 series is just a normal saloon to me.

edit: found a nice EGR removal tutorial http://home.tiscali.nl/luuk60/

I hate the coldness of leather in our climate....I have a small wollen blanket put over the seat on my s80 so my legs don't go numb with the cold...
Though the electric heated seats make up for it when it heats up.

Fishtits

ShiresV2 wrote: »

Final piece of advice, to drive a big old luxobarge you'd want to be either handy with the spanners, or handy with the money.

I drive a 525i SE (the comfort version) The E39, it is most definitely NOT a luxobarge, it is very much a drivers car.

IMHO the E39 is very seductive, quiet, quick, very comfortable. It is very happy on the tight & twisty stuff, returns respectable economy ~ low 30's and has a way of eating into your heart. Bear in mind that this car was voted the best car in the world for several years during its production.

As regards the problems, most seem to stem from patchy maintenance, I put my hands up here and admit I have minimal experience with the diesel but it would seem that if the relevant filters etc are replaced when they are due then problems are limited.

The car you looked at has low mileage and a full service history, it stinks of a wealthy owner, ie well maintained.

If you were tempted I'd encourage you to take the plunge.

PS the Yank websites are populated by students who adopt a "change out" everything but the household pet attitude to a problem.

Cheers.

Voodoomelon

If you plan on holding onto the E39 for a long time, then the one thing I would recommend doing now, when the miles are still low, is the transmission fluid. When it comes to the water pump, hoses, radiator, expansion tank etc, they can be done further down the line.

The ATF fluid cannot. I've done lots and lots and lots of reading on the atf fluid and generally once the mileage goes over 90-100k, you've gone past the point of no return. ZF recommends the fluid be changed every 60k so i'd do it now. BMW revoked the "lifetime" fluid crap a few years ago and changed it to 100k, and even thats bull.

Having said that, it will cost you a lot to do it if you don't fancy doing it yourself (probably €500+), and thats if you can find someone to do it, because many mechanics won't.

Jump on the E39, great car.

BlackWizard

mondeo wrote: »

I hate the coldness of leather in our climate....I have a small wollen blanket put over the seat on my s80 so my legs don't go numb with the cold...
Though the electric heated seats make up for it when it heats up.

I do something like that. I have a 5 euro blanket I got in dunnes for in the morning. The seats take 5min to warm up with the electric seats. But I'll definitely miss getting into the leather seat in a nice shirt and trousers knowing that I wont get any fluff on them

Well I took the plunge. Deposit is down on it It has low miles and a full service history. The first service was at BMW dublin and the rest in a Wexford garage. Its a WX reg car. It will definitely be will maintained by myself and after having the car checked out and getting the thumbs up, I'm confident it's pretty sound.

Thanks Voodoomelon for that info on the gearbox oil. I found another tutorial that will help with the ATF fluid change. It doesnt seem too hard. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239968

It looks like I have to change the ATF fluid again in 1000 miles. Is this correct?

Voodoomelon

Not even, there's various thoughts on the matter. Because the torque converter holds half the fluid, you wont get it all out in one go. So yes, you can leave it a 1000 miles if you want after the first drain, but theres no reason not to do it the next day or the next week, as the fluid is plenty mixed up by then with the old and new, providing you do a good bit of driving.

Here's a bit of info i put up on my E38, very similar process. http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055704081

BlackWizard

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Not even, there's various thoughts on the matter. Because the torque converter holds half the fluid, you wont get it all out in one go. So yes, you can leave it a 1000 miles if you want after the first drain, but theres no reason not to do it the next day or the next week, as the fluid is plenty mixed up by then with the old and new, providing you do a good bit of driving.

Here's a bit of info i put up on my E38, very similar process. http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055704081

Well basically if I do it on the weekend, I'll have to wait till the following week before doing it again and it's weather dependant. So basically it might take up to 1000miles before I get a chance to do it again.

Thanks for the link! I remember reading that before. Can i purchase the Gearbox Oil and ZF filter from a motor factors?

Voodoomelon

Its VERY hard to get the OEM fluid. BMW obviously stock it, but depending on the dealer they might not sell it to you in the quantity you need (it comes in 20 litre drums).

Apparently VW sell the exact same fluid under their own part number for a fair bit less. You can use Valvoline ATF fluid also, you can get that in a few motor factors, its BMW approved. Having said all that, I wouldn't bother if you plan on getting rid of the car in 2-3 years.

BlackWizard

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Having said all that, I wouldn't bother if you plan on getting rid of the car in 2-3 years.

Yeah see I dont know when I will be changing car again. So I might leave it for a while before doing this job then.