Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

fitting a new stem.....

  • 01-04-2010 8:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,931 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,
    Bit of a novice question I suspect :),
    I've bought a new shorter stem for my road bike and wondering do I need to get an LBS or mechanic to fit it or is it easy enough to do ?
    I had a look on youtube and it seems relatively straightforward, just wanted to make sure before I have at it with an allen key........
    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    It is very easy to do; the only thing you want to watch is the torque on the bars and steerer tube. This is really more of an issue if either of those is carbon. If that is the case I would suggest using a torque wrench- Ritchey do a preset one they call a "Torqkey" for a tenner which works not only with their stems but many others including FSA.

    Even if they are not carbon, be careful not to over tighten.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100


    +1 on Blorgs comments


    ... and remember to tighten the Headset BEFORE you tighten the stem bolts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,931 ✭✭✭Russman


    Cheers guys !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Murph100 wrote: »
    +1 on Blorgs comments


    ... and remember to tighten the Headset BEFORE you tighten the stem bolts.
    Yes, that's an important one, to do that in the right order. You tighten that just enough so there is no play in the headset when rocking back and forward holding the front brake; don't tighten it too much.

    Also if stack height on your new stem is not the same as the one it is replacing you may need an extra spacer, or to remove one. You need a few mms of spacer between the end of the steerer tube and the top cap.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 378 ✭✭Greyspoke


    Just to echo the above comments, I think there's a natural tendancy to err on the side of over tightening stem bolts because of the fear of the stem or bars twisting while you're riding if not tight enough. Apart from the danger of inflicting crush damage on carbon parts, it is also VERY easy to strip the threads out of alloy stems (regrettably I have to admit to having done it at least twice leaving the stem only fit for the bin!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,931 ✭✭✭Russman


    Thanks again for the comments guys, much apprectiated.
    If the new stem is 2-3mm shorter (? and by that i mean the height of the clamp bit that sits on the steerer tube) does that present a problem ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Russman wrote: »
    Thanks again for the comments guys, much apprectiated.
    If the new stem is 2-3mm shorter (? and by that i mean the height of the clamp bit that sits on the steerer tube) does that present a problem ?
    You would need an extra spacer in that case.


Advertisement