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Geothermal and UFH Vs Oil and Rads

24

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    I don't know how that gizmo works Raven but it was definitely running three distinct power consumption rates during the hour or so I was there yesterday and at the end of the third it went back to the first (4th used exactly the same power as the first).

    At any rate I left the energy monitor there over night.

    The estimate in my post yesterday would have been fine had it panned out.

    I went up and collected the energy monitor this evening at 7 o'clock this evening. Brutal result.

    It used 56.74kw in the 26 hours which equates to 52.4kw over a 24 hour period. This is for heating alone as there is nothing else powered up in the house - it doesn't even have a burglar alarm.

    In monetary terms this would convert to a cost of €8.34 for the 24 hours and as the house was empty that was without hot water use and people opening and closing the external doors thus reducing the heat retention of the house.

    Coincidentally, the auctioneer rang me today and told me that the BER rating (advertised as A rated on Daft) which he assured me was genuine two days ago, hasn't actually been done at all yet (never met an auctioneer yet who could tell the truth). I'm sure it will come in at alot less than A rated when its done.

    I'm aware that the current weather is harsh but this location has got away lighter than almost everywhere else. The temperature was -2 for most of yesterday and -2 to -4 today. It hasn't snowed and all roads are easily passable.

    The above daily rate would convert to €250 for a month. As our two monthly ESB bills are usually €120 in our current oil heated house, this means we could expect a bill of €620 for Dec Jan in the house we're looking at. It shouldn't cost this much to heat any house in cold but not extreme weather.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,114 ✭✭✭freddyuk


    I rest my case!! If the "converts" can really prove these units work efficiently then let's see the proper proof. I am researching hard for proof and i asked someone who actually has the means to measure the results with no "angle" and we find the results suddenly become disappointing.
    I am not casting aspersions here but simply seeking the truth as 90% of what i have researched has been negative from an efficiency standpoint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭Plombier


    You said the house was 1900 sq ft(180 m sq) if the house is not up to current building regulations then I suspect that using a figure of 75 watts per meter sq. might be about right for this excercise, 180 msq times 75 is 12.6 KW just for heating, 12.6 times 24 is 304.4 KWH because of the current weather the heating system is at design condition and will run continuiously as would oil or gas, you measured 52.4 KWH of electricity for a 24 hr period giving 304.4 KWH of heat thats a COP of 5.8 which is excellent. Oil (approx 10KW/ltr.)for the same period with a 90% efficient boiler 10KWH times 90% is 9KW/ltr. 33.8 ltrs. per 24hr at the wonderful price of 55 cent will cost 18.60 for the same period but at 75 cent its 25.35.

    HP____Oil@ 55c____ Oil@ 75c
    €8.34__ €18.60_____€25.35

    The cycles you see are related to different parts of the heatpump, compressor, heating pump, brine pump etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    It could well be down to the BER rating of the house. It's advertised as A rated and I was assured this was genuine but it later transpired that the BER hasn't been done.

    I'll post up the BER in a few days when it's done.

    It's a disgrace that auctioneers can blatantly lie when selling houses and buyers have no recourse. Another couple have a bid on this house and if they buy it they are going to be robbed with high heating bills.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    If nothing is powered up in the house, I presume it's un-occupied so why don't you just turn it down? (the dial on the front of it)

    My cost meter in the same weather, but probably a bigger heatpump as we have 350sQ. M ran to €10.30 for the lat 24hrs, but I'm not worried because when the weather's milder it uses much less; our total for the last year was €1620.00 only...our house was mostly built in 1971, so the insulation of your A rated house will be a world away.

    The machine in a 180Sq. M house will probably be well under €1000 annually, so I wouldn't worry about it, its still the cheapest way of heating a house in Ireland by a country mile.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    Should have also mentioned that if the house is un-occupied, there's simply no other normal sources of heat from TVs computers, people etc etc, so its an innacurate reflection of what to expect


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    RavenII wrote: »
    My cost meter in the same weather, but probably a bigger heatpump as we have 350sQ. M ran to €10.30 for the lat 24hrs, but I'm not worried because when the weather's milder it uses much less; our total for the last year was €1620.00 only...our house was mostly built in 1971, so the insulation of your A rated house will be a world away.

    Raven do you mind me asking how many kw's you used in that 24 hrs - just in case we're using different cost per kw.

    I'd be amazed if I got away with €1,000 for the year as my two monnthly bill for Dec and Jan will be €500 for heating alone based on the usage I'm seeing in the last two days.

    I went up there just now and checked the accuracy of the energy monitor I used by reading the ESB meter - the result was the same - 53 kw per day to run.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭Plombier


    It will cost three times more to heat the house with oil, all your figures add up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    A horrible result when it comes to the real world, the usual experience of HP based heating systems, most fail the promises which are used to sell them ....

    Chipboard wrote:
    Cycle 2 14% of 24 hrs 3.4 hrs @ 4.380 kw/hr = 14.9 kw

    Could it be that the cylinder (buffer, thermal storage ) is badly plumbed, badly insulated?

    If this "cycle 2" (quoted above) really repeats every day without domestic hot water being drawn then the energetic loss of the thermal storage would be 100% per day....

    If it repeats every second day the loss would be 50 % per day,and so on...

    About 20-30 loss would be normal with a small wet storage system, around 300-500 liters as long as no thermal energy is drawn from it,consumed by opening the warm water tap.

    It can be done much better,with less losses. But this is not the standard we see installed.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    My cost meter only shows the daily & running total (I re-set it yearly on 30/10) . It can also show how many kWs the machine is drawing, but not the total kW in the period.... since you asked I just checked it and the good news is I have it set wrong...its on my old ESB rate of 17.6c Day and 8.37c Night - we're now on Airtricity at about 12% less, so my last year cost more like €1420 not the €1600 odd I measured!

    At a third of the price of oil, its such a no-brainer; I think the title of this thread is stupid ....but you do have to run the things correctly and use a good heatpump.... Your bill won't be as high as you think, as I said before there's nothing else happening in the empty house...are the curtains even drawn in the evenings etc etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,908 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Plombier wrote: »
    You said the house was 1900 sq ft(180 m sq) if the house is not up to current building regulations then I suspect that using a figure of 75 watts per meter sq. might be about right for this excercise, 180 msq times 75 is 12.6 KW just for heating, 12.6 times 24 is 304.4 KWH because of the current weather the heating system is at design condition and will run continuiously as would oil or gas, you measured 52.4 KWH of electricity for a 24 hr period giving 304.4 KWH of heat thats a COP of 5.8 which is excellent. Oil (approx 10KW/ltr.)for the same period with a 90% efficient boiler 10KWH times 90% is 9KW/ltr. 33.8 ltrs. per 24hr at the wonderful price of 55 cent will cost 18.60 for the same period but at 75 cent its 25.35.

    HP____Oil@ 55c____ Oil@ 75c
    €8.34__ €18.60_____€25.35

    The cycles you see are related to different parts of the heatpump, compressor, heating pump, brine pump etc.

    33.8 l/24hrs ... "A" rated 1900 sq ft house ... :confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    No. It was stated to be an A rated house, but we've come to the conclusion that it's not.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    RavenII wrote: »
    At a third of the price of oil, its such a no-brainer; I think the title of this thread is stupid ....but you do have to run the things correctly and use a good heatpump.... Your bill won't be as high as you think, as I said before there's nothing else happening in the empty house...are the curtains even drawn in the evenings etc etc

    I accept that if the house was occupied it may have a positive effect but it's doubtful. Surely the opening and closing of external doors would seriously lessen the heat retention. Your cooker fridge etc may produce heat but these use electricity too and surely a geothermal heat pump must be more efficicient producer of heat than a household appliance. If we're at home some night and it feels a bit cold I'm unlikely to ask my wife to boil the kettle! I'm going to say turn up the heating. I don't accept that the presence of 'people' would heat the house. Houses heat people not the other way around.

    These systems may be viable in very well insulated houses but based on everything I've discovered to date, they are totally uneconomical in most houses. I was speaking to a builder last night who reckons that he knows loads of people who have them and they all have had huge electricity bills. As a result most are supplementing there use with solid fuel. That's proof enough for me. If you outlay the capital required for this system, you should never have to use solid fuel.

    I've queried with the SEAI and will post up their response. It shouldn't be difficult to estimate the annual cost, given the cost for this time if year.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    RavenII wrote: »
    At a third of the price of oil, its such a no-brainer; I think the title of this thread is stupid ....but you do have to run the things correctly and use a good heatpump.... Your bill won't be as high as you think, as I said before there's nothing else happening in the empty house...are the curtains even drawn in the evenings etc etc

    I accept that if the house was occupied it may have a positive effect but it's doubtful. Surely the opening and closing of external doors would seriously lessen the heat retention. Your cooker fridge etc may produce heat but these use electricity too and surely a geothermal heat pump must be more efficicient producer of heat than a household appliance. If we're at home some night and it feels a bit cold I'm unlikely to ask my wife to boil the kettle! I'm going to say turn up the heating. I don't accept that the presence of 'people' would heat the house. Houses heat people not the other way around.

    These systems may be viable in very well insulated houses but based on everything I've discovered to date, they are totally uneconomical in most houses. I was speaking to a builder last night who reckons that he knows loads of people who have them and they all have had huge electricity bills. As a result most are supplementing there use with solid fuel. That's proof enough for me. If you outlay the capital required for this system, you should never have to use solid fuel.

    I've queried with the SEAI and will post up their response. It shouldn't be difficult to estimate the annual cost, given the cost for this time if year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    The fact that a building is occupied, means its picks up incidental heat from all the other normal electrical things in the building...I merely made the point because your 'test' isn't reflecting reality...I'm not saying you would boil a kettle to heat the house

    People with heatpumps have higher electricity bills...of course!..they can't run them for free..but they SPEND LESS MONEY overall, and that I assume is what you're worried about. The eejits bob-the-builder etc is talking to are forgetting they HAVE NO OIL BILL, so you're getting bad info there!

    If a house is badly insulated, then it will need more energy - that will cost you more on oil, simple, easily proven fact. Just read SEAI's bi-monthly 'Domestic Fuel Cost comparison' charts on their site.

    To sum up, I paid about €1400 odd extra on electricity (this year), the SAME energy on oil would have been €3500 + (we used to use 4 x fills of oil a year and turned the heating on & off - now we just leave it on). I'm happy!

    P.S. People are warmer than the air surrounding them....if you ask enough friends around....An average person adds around 70W of heat energy to a zone, just by being there. (Wikipedia)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 196 ✭✭L driver


    Hello,
    Raven/Evarybody in a very well insulated house would the capital costs of a heatpump make an oil condensing boiler with UFH more attractive?An oil boiler approx €1400 versus ASHP €7000 ( I think), GSHP €????. I know it satisfies the renewable part of planning, but I think we should be using solar regardless.
    I am only asking the Q, and my figures are open to interrogation. But alot of oil could be bought for the difference and in a very well insulated house there would be no need for heating up the floor on night saver. I like the idea of a heatpump and I know people that will show esb bills and they are as you say. I also know people and their HP is a disaster but so is their insulation and maybe there installer was too.
    Anyway back to the original question in a very well insulated house would the capital costs of a heatpump make an oil condensing boiler with UFH more attractive?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    RavenII wrote: »
    To sum up, I paid about €1400 odd extra on electricity (this year), the SAME energy on oil would have been €3500 + (we used to use 4 x fills of oil a year and turned the heating on & off - now we just leave it on). I'm happy!

    With due respect my test is nearer to reality than your example. We currently rent a house which is ridiculously badly insulated and we still only use 2.5 tanks (1000 ltrs per tank) per year and our house is occupied 24/7/365. How the hell could you use €3500 a year with intermittent use. Methinks that like alot of people you would say black was white to justify geothermal and ufh.

    I am taking account of the fact that I won't have oil bills if I buy this house. At the moment it still doesn't look viable. 53 kw of electricity per day or 3200 per two monthly bill is alot no matter what way you carve it up. If the SEAI are able to give me a rough distribution of heating costs over the year I will know more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    [ How the hell could you use €3500 a year with intermittent use. Methinks that like alot of people you would say black was white to justify geothermal and ufh.


    LOL! ...I'll tell you how: -

    1. My wife loves heat, but she does suffer from bad arthritis
    2. The house is 3500 Sq. Ft and very tall ceilings, roughly 20" in one area and a lot of open plan areas.
    3. Built in 1971, 2/3 of the house has just 25mm of insulation in the walls.

    We used to consume 4 x 1200L fill annually...I don't need to 'justify' our choice of heating, it has paid for itself by now. Getting €6500 from SEI was nice too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    L driver wrote: »
    Hello,
    Raven/Evarybody in a very well insulated house would the capital costs of a heatpump make an oil condensing boiler with UFH more attractive?QUOTE]

    Think it would depend on whether its a new build or retrofit....

    If its a new house, I'd go for a geothermal heatpump (with the hot water built-in) and locate it in your utility room. Then you are looking at the difference in cost for that over oil boiler/cylinder/controls/oil-tank etc. If it was just the OFCH vs Geo contest then the difference may be somehwere around €4000, but if you have to comply with new regs and fit solar with the oil, you'll probably have spent just as much on the install but will not have a system that is as cheap to run. Two solar panels will save about 3000kW hrs a year, if those kWs are from burning oil, that's about €300. (10.3c per kW according to SEAI)

    Read a few posts back too, it was dealt with already I think.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 196 ✭✭L driver


    Hello,
    Please forward me name of company that is only €4000 dearer with geo than oil,
    Thanks in advance


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 parkman2010


    Hi folks,
    Apologies for the long post.
    Just reading all the posts here with interest. I'm currently in my new home built in 2008/2009. I have a Neura heatpump installed, and have had nothing but trouble with it. This is my second winter in my new home and my second winter without heating, thanks to my interest in doing what I see as the right thing and being "green". These systems can work very well, but unfortunately there are alot of installers out there that don't know what they are doing. I am now starting to really regret spending big bucks for a cold house. :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 196 ✭✭L driver


    Parkman,
    sorry to hear your woes. How much did your heatpump cost? Is it installed badly?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 parkman2010


    It was included in all the plumbing, all in all about 26k. I guess that the heatpump itself must be around 15k. Too much for something that doesn't work in the winter, when you need it most.
    Don't know if it is the installation or the unit is faulty. Still waiting on answers!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 196 ✭✭L driver


    It was included in all the plumbing, all in all about 26k. I guess that the heatpump itself must be around 15k. Too much for something that doesn't work in the winter, when you need it most.
    Don't know if it is the installation or the unit is faulty. Still waiting on answers!

    Best of luck. Keep us updated please. It seems to me that the installer might be a huge factor in relation to heatpumps, because it is the constant in the scenarios. What is the formal training for a heatpump installer/engineer?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 428 ✭✭Chipboard


    RavenII wrote: »
    Built in 1971, 2/3 of the house has just 25mm of insulaWe used to consume 4 x 1200L fill annually...I don't need to 'justify' our choice of heating, it has paid for itself by now. Getting €6500 from SEI was nice too.

    I don't believe that you went from spending €3500 on oil annually to an annual ESB for geothermal of €1400 unless you spent a very significant amount on insulation - which of course would have significantly reduced your Oil bill. GHP is not economical in a badly insulated house.

    If someone can afford it and they want to have geothermal, fine, but unless the payback period is reasonable, it is a waste of money.

    There was a programme on rte two weeks ago about a guy who built a passive house. He put in a domestic wind turbine (total White elephant) which he said had a payback period of 26 years. In reality this means it won't pay for itself at all, as it will be sitting in a junkyard in less than 15.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    L driver wrote: »
    Hello,
    Please forward me name of company that is only €4000 dearer with geo than oil,
    Thanks in advance

    Ken Glover installed ours - 087 8296762 - very competent, really knows his heatpumps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    Chipboard wrote: »
    I don't believe that you went from spending €3500 on oil annually to an annual ESB for geothermal of €1400 unless you spent a very significant amount on insulation .

    Well as I said, we used to get an average of 4 fills a year, 1000 to 1200L a pop. That was our hot water too in summer. We didn't add in any significant insulation, we extended the building a little too, so just the extension is well insulated. It is a fairly large house too.

    The cost meter squares with the heatpump's current read-out, so we believe it to be quite accurate.

    In an existing house, if you know how much oil you use, its easy to convert that to an annual energy total and work out the payback of the heatpump installation...thats a calculation you should ask you installer for.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20 weston1


    hi raven, where is ken glover based, is he a plumber on his own or is he with one of the geothermal companies


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20 weston1


    hi raven again. got quotes off a number of geothermal co.s both for air to water and ground collecter. there is some variance in the quotes for what looks like the same product from different companies. eg. one co wanted nearly 13k for uf pipes supply and install another wanted only 3380 plus vat. quotes ranging from 17k to 37k depending on the company. its nothing to do with the air system or ground collecter as individaul companys only have a 10 to 15 % variance between them on their quotes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    Ken's in Wicklow, near Redcross, works for himself with a couple of guys. He's actually an electrician but with a plumbing background...that's probably why his controls etc work!

    Plumbers often treat heatpumps like they're boilers, they need to be piped and set up slightly differently, which probably accounts for a lot of the whingeing here!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 parkman2010


    yes will keep ye posted Ldriver, just found out that the company installing them has gone bust but they have told me that they are still going to service the units they installed. I think it might be worth getting on to the manufacturer at this stage and finding out if they are going to deal with it directly. As for the formal training of installers, i'm not really sure if there is any. Like everything in this country, if you pay some tax no one will ask any questions!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 Jrochey


    Well lads just wondering given the current weather conditions and extreme frost and cold how do people who have a geo system currently rate their system. Got a quote for 13500 for a 13kw heat pump and 8500 for underfloor on both floors in a 2960sq ft house horizontal loop in the garden thats inclusive of vat and labour what do ya reckon good/bad. Should the quotes be lower given current economic conditions. Have been told that a normal heating oil based system would be half the price without including solar panels which would bring it up to 20grand true or not any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 parkman2010


    Jrochey wrote: »
    Well lads just wondering given the current weather conditions and extreme frost and cold how do people who have a geo system currently rate their system. Got a quote for 13500 for a 13kw heat pump and 8500 for underfloor on both floors in a 2960sq ft house horizontal loop in the garden thats inclusive of vat and labour what do ya reckon good/bad. Should the quotes be lower given current economic conditions. Have been told that a normal heating oil based system would be half the price without including solar panels which would bring it up to 20grand true or not any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

    Hi Jrochey,
    See my post above about my current situation. Don't allow this to put you off going ahead with your geothermal system. When it works right it is a dream, the problem is getting the right installer to put it in for you. As regards your prices that you refer to above, they sound ok given the fact that competition is strong at the moment in the market. Make sure you go and visit some houses that have the system installed by the company you are thinking of using. Also have you considered getting some form of backup system in case of problems with the unit? Possibly connecting a solid fuel stove? Consider what are the effects of the unit failing? What backup service is given, warranties etc. Consider the cost saving versus oil. Worth checking www.sei.ie website. Hope this helps you to make up your mind!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 Jrochey


    Hi Parkman,
    Thanks for the response. I was thinking of getting a buffer tank and piping a solid fuel stove into it in case the esb prices rose etc he included all the pipework from the stove to the dhw tank and plate exchanger. 13kw he reckons it will keep costs down. Hard to know what to do !! reckon i'd need 20 rads or so otherwise with back boiler and solar panels have u good insulation and good windows is that helping. Having a disaster on ur hands is not what i want bills are hard enough to pay without extra hassle. Given the bord gais intro to the market do u think it might help bring down prices.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 parkman2010


    Hi Jrochey,
    Yeah I think that you have a good idea in the stove. I did the same myself, I connected up a 14Kw stove straight to the tank. My tank has the top half for hot water and below for the heating system. The mistake I seem to have made is that the hot water from the stove is piping into the hot water area of the tank. This in turn is supposed to heat the buffer area. It does not. The basic result I have now is that the stove brings the tank to 70 deg +, but when I turn on the ufh pump it has only access to about 30deg. And this only lasts for about 1 hour before you are back to 20deg or less. Therfore it is pointless for the ufh. I am putting in a new tank without the buffer system in the future to see if this works.
    As regards the windows, they are double glazed but to be honest I would put in triple if I had the chance again. Insulation is pretty good, as I did it myself!! or at least I hope its good enough.

    I am actually with airtricity and yes it does make a big difference!!

    Just wondering where abouts in the country are ya?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭Plombier


    parkman2010 I think by your description that you will only need to change pipework and controls, you shouldn't need to change the tank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,273 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    can you not get gas? you could get a condensing combi boiler, even one with a heat exchange on it, they are extremely efficient, and only heat up water when you open the tap and provide unlimited amounts.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Arseways


    Underfloor or rads? Depends what you're looking for. Underfloor heating provides a very comfortable environment, at a cost. It has a very slow thermal response, ie it takes time to heat it's environment, and for this reason it's recommended that the underfloor heating be left on 24/7. Therefore it uses fuel to maintain an ambient room temp of approx 20c for 24 hrs per day. Rads on the other hand have a fast thermal response and need only use fuel to maintain an ambient room temp of 20c for the time of occupancy..........8 hrs per day!? For this reason, as comfortable as it is, underfloor heating is more expensive to run, regardless of the fuel or heat source.

    You'd also have to ask yourself, with our changeable weather, would a heating system with a fast or slow thermal response be more sensible??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 795 ✭✭✭kingchess


    hi all,my house is 2500 square foot and my esb bills for 08 was around 1670 and for 09 it was 1600 euro,(with airtricity this year so cheaper,)this includes every thing for the house-cooker fridge etc and all heating and hot water,my hp is a thermia diplomat 10 and has a built in 180lt tank,it also has an immersion built in but i never connected that up, ihave ufh down stairs and rads upstairs that i never use.also a stove and a fireplace that i never light as there is no need.i put in the ufh pipes myself cost around 800 euro all leading to the utility room where hp is.150mm insulation under the 75 mm screed,used quinnlite block for inner leaf of house and put 200 mm insulation in the attic.moved in just before youngest was born in jan 08 +two older girls and they all love leaving lights etc on.i bought my hp from poland around 6000 euro deliverd to my door in late 07 and got grant of 4500.my own plumber connected it up, there is 450m of collector pipe buried in the field-cant remenber the cost of that but i paid 300 euro for the gysol(antifreeze) to put in that and 300 to digger man, if it cost me more than 5000 including the grant i would be suprised. i think the bottom line is insulate and then insulate some more


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 209 ✭✭jimmyging


    hi all,

    we have a new build and had nuera ghp with ufh installed when we moved in last year.the whole system was running v well and our esb bills were €1900 for last year for a 3800 sq ft house and plenty of hot water .I am now sitting in the kitchen with 2 dimplexes on and the stove blazing as our compressor is gone I believe.I have been told that it will take 2 weeks to get this compressor in from Austria so on with the thermals for the moment.Anyone have this happen to them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,114 ✭✭✭freddyuk


    Oh dear, that is bad news. There are some real fans of HP's on this thread but they have not been active since the cold snap.:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭RavenII


    Well Well Freddy its been a perfect 21.5 degrees at home right through all the snow, and why wouldn't it be? Lowest temp I saw on my weather station was -7.

    Regarding the man with the broken compressor, that's unfortunate, but they are machines and machines do break from time to time whether they are boilers or heatpumps etc. ....what would irritate me is that the supplier has no spare parts and is taking a leisurely two weeks to bring the parts from Austria rather than 2/3 days normal freight time from that part of the world!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,114 ✭✭✭freddyuk


    -7 !! Tropical! We were down to -11 in West Cork. I have blocked up some drafty door and window frames and my UFH has been performing well. The boiler has not been on as much as it used to be. I keep checking the tank and thinking of you. Glad to hear you are still running efficiently. I really will be installing a HP (on test) but currently installing Solar Thermal and PV as I know they work well.
    You are correct, poor backup service is inexcuseable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 209 ✭✭jimmyging


    the poor back up is due to the fact that the company we bought the system from is gone bust .Thankfully the insulation is very good and any heat we are producing is staying put . So nobody out there has had a compressor go with a heat pump ??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 795 ✭✭✭kingchess


    hi freddy .also in west cork and only noticed the bad weather when i went out side.heatpump did what heatpumps do-keep house lovely and warm,there was no need to light a fire or even use the rads upstairs.but as an old plumber told me years ago the short answer is if your house is insulated enough you could use a candle to keep house warm


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 xcross


    unfortunately another request for advice on my own build but hopefully will prove useful to others in a similar setup. I've read through the previous 7 pages and spent the last month approx looking online for information and getting quotes from suppliers and installers and I am still unwise!
    Geo is not an option for me as we don't have land out front or enough access to back garden for boring. Its a Cork city property.
    Have been interested in both Solar and Air-to-Water HP solutions but at the moment bing a little under pressure to make a decision I am inclined to wire & pipe for both but install neither yet.
    We have a 40 sqm new build area that we are putting UFH into with a 75mm screed. We also have an existing area, 5 beds, 2 living & 2 bath with 10 radiators and a condensing gas boiler.
    I'm putting off the decision as I need to do more research on Solar and A2W. I would be more likely to do Solar but the house faces East and West so the panels would have to be mounted on a flat roof at rear to face South to the side of the house. The HP is a big investment so I am hesitant.
    AT the moment I would like advice on tanking. I need to cater for the above future possibilities but have very limited space for HW storage or heating buffer tanks, any of these will go in our Utility downstairs next to the gas boiler.
    Is a single tank with multiple coils or "tank-in-tank" better for me?
    Or if I had two separate tanks can one be mounted on top of the other (2.4m floor to ceiling height). I can accomodate up to approx 700mm diameter tank.
    Any comments/suggestions would be great. Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11 dj01


    Indeed Freddy yet another Heatpump fan here to dispell the myth we're all off lighting bonfires. My air source heat pump with UF heating kept our house very toasty during the big chill, happy to say the coldest I got was opening the fridge!

    Look's like most people's heatpump's did a pretty good job, and as the other poster said, machines do take a break from time to time. If only my car was as reliable as my heat pump!:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,114 ✭✭✭freddyuk


    I am pleased there are systems out there that are working. We have some posters that have published figures for their running costs which is what people really want to know to make an informed decision providing those figures are verified.
    I have seen some very interesting developments in the UK where the electricity supplier tariffs have been geared towards off peak usage which makes HP technology much more viable.
    It does not mean that Airtricity or ESB will follow suit but the market in the UK will expand rapidly on the back of this which will tend to make the technology cheaper for the customer in UK and quite possibly Ireland.
    I have half an old drafty house and half a new well insulated house and the difference is remarkable. UFH is brilliant if you use it correctly. You can connect up the old and new quite easily.
    For the record I have just ordered an Air to water HP and will be looking forward to experimenting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭Plombier


    Just to add my bit, if you look back through the posts over the cold spell I think there was one HP that failed but I'm not going to count the number of oil and gas boilers that have, Freddy what are the details of the HP you have ordered and how did you select it ?.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 www.ecofitter


    Hi , just adding to the thread.
    Air source HP are much cheaper and easier to install than GSHP. However the efficiency drops dramatically as you get closer to freezing , around -7 they stop working effectively as heat pumps, ( i.e extracting more heat from the atmosphere than power you put in)
    Ground Source works better at these temperatiures as you are extracting the heat from 1.2m underground at around 10degrees even on the coldest air temperature day ... However installing an exterior ground loop does in my experience as a fitter double the installation costs... so how maany days at -7 are you going to have regularly when the heat pump will not give you the extra ( above 100%) effectiveness... probably not that many in Cork .. nice and toasty there by the gulf stream.. So take the plumbers advise from the start of the thread INSULATE INSULATE AND THEN INSULATE to about 350mm in the roof , install the heat pump and certainly the solar hot water
    ( even retro fit into old rads and I have a system I have used for this)
    Solar hot water for me in sunny scottish hill farm where its been all nice and white and clean since November not so good on the solar ... but from March to September it does pretty much all my hot water...
    and the heat pump heats the house... which given we retained the old oil boiler and its now .. well broken... is a good thing.
    If you can please try to produce your own power ( best from wind on a tower not house mounted turbine) , and it sounds like you have a nice flat roof for solar hot water ..
    good luck with the build... both Navitron and Dismy have kits for self install please have a look as they are a good baseline price to guide you , feel free to mention me as I have bought from both.
    cheers


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