help please (emersion timer switch)

portsbruff

I have a emersion timer and that sends power at a set time to a emersion switch with a bath and sink option. The problem i keep on getting is the switch is getting hot after 2 weeks work and then stops with a strong smell of bakerlight.(This is how i have the wire intall) MAINS SWITCH to EMERSION TIMER 3 ply/out of EMERSION TIMER 3ply into SWITCH/out of SWITCH onto ELEMENT.I cant just use TIMER Because the output only has 3 connections for 3 wires. At this rate its costing me more money (new switch every 2 weeks plus its a fire hazzard)

The Emersion Timer is a B/Q Product

mazthespark

get a new timer and a new switch from an electrical wholesalers specified for the job and designed to carry the load. and ensure all connections are tight. both elements should never be on simultaneously either

portsbruff

thanks!!

indie armada

are you using a propper immersion switch that has sink/bath on it and how many cores are on the cable going to the element.

meercat

mazthespark has the solution.dont use the current set up until you sort the problem

Red Alert

You need to make sure your switch is rated for 20A or higher - don't use a similar looking one designed for central heating.

portsbruff

I solved the problem!!! I had a Digital B/Q timer feeding a bath and sink switch

The switch was getting very hot. I solved this with a Analog Timer (Not B/Q)
with a new switch i was replacing this switch every 2 weeks (Dont Buy B&Q)

Thanks to everyone!!!!

portsbruff

Red Alert wrote: »

You need to make sure your switch is rated for 20A or higher - don't use a similar looking one designed for central heating.

My Mains Emersion switch is G20 series B32. I think this is to big i should be looking for a 20 amp (what is B stand for ) the others are (C)

mazthespark

portsbruff wrote: »

My Mains Emersion switch is G20 series B32. I think this is to big i should be looking for a 20 amp (what is B stand for ) the others are (C)

is that the breaker in the consumer unit?
the g20 series is the model number of the mcb
b32 stands for domestic type rated at 32a
an immersion is usually on a b type 20a mcb
the rest of the mcbs should be b type also as c type are generally commercial or industrial as they have different tripping characteristics etc open to corrections there though.

M cebee

the rules basically say they're not suitable for domestic

the loop-impedance has to be lower for 'c' type

portsbruff

I had to replace the Copper tank (not a Small Job) After spending 180 euros on tank and connections Rip off Ireland again. I started to take of the wires on the new Element because the cable not long enough then stopped because i needed spade connectors so i put the 2 wires i took off back on
and put a brown Connection box and used the old cable from the new connection box (all colours matching). from this to switch has not been touched. Turned on electric and the element came on 2 hours later got half a bath of warm water tried again and put switch on sink this time and got quarter of a bath!!

Today i looked at the switch and after a hour i found out that the brown wire going to the Element is connected to the bath connection (Correct) and the black is connected to Sink Connection on the Switch (Correct) the other cables are correct too. I disconected the Black wire and turned on Emersion Power and put switch on bath. And what happends is the Brown wire has power (Correct) and goes to Element (Correct) but the Disconncted Black wire is live to. I tested the sink connection black wire and had NO Power (correct). It seems that the Brown wire sends power to element and returns power back though the black wire to switch? If i Re Connect black wire to sink connection the Connection is now live

Problem seems to be Element?

meercat

new immersion
black-sink
brown-bath
blue-neutral
earth-earth

the old wiring was a different sequence(no point posting ,it may confuse more)
join cables and swap connections in switch

portsbruff

I got an Electrician in and he said the wiring is ok he tested switch on bath and sink and he could'nt find the fault. About 10 mins after him leaving i checked the switch and both cables are live again!! is this normal for an element to use both.

M cebee

portsbruff wrote: »

I got an Electrician in and he said the wiring is ok he tested switch on bath and sink and he could'nt find the fault. About 10 mins after him leaving i checked the switch and both cables are live again!! is this normal for an element to use both.

sink and bath will be live if stat is open- get a registered contractor!

SteveDM

I might be wrong, but sounds like the problem isn't with the wiring, but with the immersion heater itself.

Immersion heaters get limescale, this reduces there effectiveness and causes them to blow.

It sounds like there is a short between the two elements. Haven't dealt with immersions myself since phase two which is a while ago. But I'm pretty sure its something along these lines.

Anyway, something for you to look into.

Bruthal

M cebee wrote: »

sink and bath will be live if stat is open- get a registered contractor!

So once a contractor is registered he is suddenly infallible? While what you say about stat open will show bath and sink as both being live is correct, being registered wont ensure the contractor realises that.

M cebee

sparkie registered /non-registered damn all difference:D

il be non registered myself soon the way the economy is

Bruthal

M cebee wrote: »

sparkie registered /non-registered damn all difference:D

il be non registered myself soon the way the economy is

Yes im more or less finished with electrical now, wont miss it either.