thninking of buying a vw golf any advice welcome .

bk1991

hi guys u may have seen my other tread about vw golf . i am going college in uk and buying car here for summer and driveing over there aswell . i want a 1.9tdi would prefer a 6 speed .what i want to know is whats pros and cons of the golf and the bora.and with a budget of 4500€ tops what years should i be lookin at . from searching internet i am getting puzzled.



tia


bk1991

Mr Benevolent

Madness to buy here if you're using it in the UK. VWs are overpriced too, you could get something far better than a TDI Bora for €4500. Alternatively you could buy one for €2000 and still have change.

bazz26

You should be able to get a fresher and newer Bora than a similar Golf on your budget as the Bora doesn't carry the same status as the Golf despite just being a booted version of the same car.

Downside is that most Irish spec Boras are very basic indeed with earlier ones not even having electric windows.

bazz26

Personally I would try and stretch the budget to something like this, if you are set on buying a VW:

http://www.adverts.ie/showproduct.php?product=200086&cat=2

Should be able to knock a few quid of the asking price.

Saab Ed

The big difference between the Golf and the Bora is that the Golf isn't as much trouble as a Bora.

Modern Golfs aint that reliable, Boras are awful in that department.

tossy

Saab Ed wrote: »

The big difference between the Golf and the Bora is that the Golf isn't as much trouble as a Bora.

How do you figure that out ? The are the same chassis,same engines,same electrics.same running gear so any common problems with the golf are common problems with the Bora,in fact the bora suffers one less common problem as it doesn't have a rear windscreen wiper

If you are going to the UK it would be foolish to buy here.

Here is a buyers guide from VAGdrivers.

Mk4 Buying & General Mk4 Info.

-Without doubt the 150 is obviously the more tunable, although many do say the 130 actually is due to less turbo-Lag. Prob not much too choose between them in terms of longevity tbh, just maintain it sensibly, and it'll be fine. 150's give more trouble with camshaft wear and clutch/flywheel wear.

-Any mk4 buying guide is going to apply to the diesel in most respects apart from the engine.

-The 100 is generally worth giving a miss, unless a complete steal. All comes back to a question of money too really.

-The 110 and 115 are almost identical. However most 110s came with a 5speed box and had significantly less torque. 115PD's have a 6speed box.

-The 130 is obviously the best compromise, although any of the models can be ecu mapped to add approx another 40ish bhp, while 115 still a competent choice too

-Visually, 130 and 115 will look similar. The 130 has avus II 15" rims

-However the 150 can be identified from the 130 thus:

*Alot of UK 150's got GTI and GT red I badges.
*Intercooler alongside the rad (if you're under bonnet), As opposed to SMIC on the 130 etc.
*Different front valence(As 4mot),
*Alloy wheels, four 6½ x 16 ‘Montreal II’ with 205/55 R16 tyres and anti theft wheel bolts,
*Black Wood Trim,
*Leather/wood gear knob,
*Lowered Suspension,
*Lumbar support (both front seats),
*3 rear head restraints with rear centre three point seat belt.

-Ideally use the data sticker to verify the model - don't rely on boot badges.....
-There's 3 stickers to match up: In the boot, in the service book and on top of the cambelt cover(small sticker, still with engine code on it)

-Each tdi model remaps differently, typically adding about 40hp (generic).

-Choosing a bora is a good idea - much cheaper than the golf, but more or less same performance and spec. Sport/ Highline models one to aim for.

-Expect 50 MPG from TDI's on a mixed run, and down to circa low 40's for around town.


Main Models of mk4:

Petrol's:
1.4
1.6
2.0 8v: 115hp (basically the engine from the mk3gti8v)
1.8 20v: 125hp (no turbo)
1.8 20vt : 150hp, 180hp (same engine, later uses different turbo)
2.3 V5: 150hp, 170hp (5 cylinder engines)
V6 4motion: 204hp 2.8 24v
R32 240hp 3.2 24v

Diesels:
090: as the original mk3 tdi (non-PD tho)
110: development of the mk3 gttdi engine
115: As above, but with more torque; with PD technology(no main fuel dist, injectors are direct)
130: As above but with different turbo/injectors/map
150: As above again with different turbo/FMIC/map.

Golf and Golf Variant
Model Years Engine code Displ. Power Torque

1.4 1997–2006 I4 16V AHW / AXP / BCA 1390 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) @ 5000 rpm 126 N·m (93 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm

1.6 1997–2000 I4 8V AEH / AKL / APF 1595 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 5600 rpm 145 N·m (107 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm
1.6 2000–2006 I4 8V AVU / BFQ 1595 cc 75 kW (102 PS; 101 hp) @ 5600 rpm 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm
1.6 2000–2006 I4 16V AUS / AZD / ATN / BCB 1598 cc 77 kW (105 PS; 103 hp) @ 5700 rpm 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
1.6 FSI 2001–2006 I4 16V BAD 1598 cc 81 kW (110 PS; 109 hp) @ 5800 rpm 155 N·m (114 lb·ft) @ 4400 rpm

1.8 1997–1999 I4 20V AGN 1781 cc 92 kW (125 PS; 123 hp) @ 6000 rpm 170 N·m (130 lb·ft) @ 4200 rpm
1.8 T 1997–2006 I4 20V AGU / ARZ / AUM 1781 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 5700 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1750–4600
1.8 T 2001–2006 I4 20V AUQ / AWP 1781 cc 132 kW (179 PS; 177 hp) @ 5500 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 1950–5000

2.0 1999–2001 I4 8V APK/AQY 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5200 rpm 170 N·m (130 lb·ft) @ 2400 rpm
2.0 2001–2006 I4 8V AZJ / AZH 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 172 N·m (127 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

2.3 V5 1997–2000 VR5 10V AGZ 2324 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 6000 rpm 205 N·m (151 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm
2.3 V5 2000–2003 VR5 20V AQN 2324 cc 125 kW (170 PS; 168 hp) @ 6200 rpm 220 N·m (160 lb·ft) @ 3300 rpm

2.8 VR6 1999–2002 VR6 12V AAA / AFP 2792 cc 128 kW (174 PS; 172 hp) @ 5800 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 4200 rpm
2.8 V6 2002-2005 VR6 24V AQP / AUE / BDE 2792 cc 150 kW (204 PS; 201 hp) @ 6000 rpm 270 N·m (200 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

3.2 R32 2001–2004 VR6 24V BFH / BML 3189 cc 177 kW (241 PS; 237 hp) @ 6250 rpm 320 N·m (240 lb·ft) @ 2800 rpm

1.9 SDI 1997–2006 I4 8V AGP / AQM 1896 cc 50 kW (68 PS; 67 hp) @ 4200 rpm 133 N·m (98 lb·ft) @ 2200–2600 rpm

1.9 TDI 1997–2003 I4 8V AGR / ALH 1896 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 4000 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2000–2006 I4 8V ATD / AXR 1896 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 4000 rpm 240 N·m (180 lb·ft) @ 1800–2400
1.9 TDI 1997–2002 I4 8V AHF / ASV 1896 cc 81 kW (110 PS; 109 hp) @ 4150 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 1998–2000 I4 8V AJM 1896 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 4000 rpm 285 N·m (210 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 1999–2001 I4 8V AUY 1896 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 4000 rpm 310 N·m (230 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2001–2006 I4 8V ASZ 1896 cc 96 kW (131 PS; 129 hp) @ 4000 rpm 310 N·m (230 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2000–2003 I4 8V ARL 1896 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 4000 rpm 320 N·m (240 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm

Golf Cabriolet

Model Years Engine code Displ. Power Torque

1.6 1998–2000 I4 8V AFT / AKS 1595 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 5800 rpm 140 N·m (100 lb·ft) @ 3500 rpm

1.8 1998–2000 I4 8V AAM / ANN 1781 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) @ 5000 rpm 140 N·m (100 lb·ft) @ 2500 rpm
1.8 1998–2000 I4 8V ADZ / ANP 1781 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 5500 rpm 145 N·m (107 lb·ft) @ 2500 rpm

2.0 1998–2000 I4 8V AGG 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 166 N·m (122 lb·ft) @ 2600 rpm
2.0 2000–2002 I4 8V AWG / AWF 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 165 N·m (122 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

1.9 TDI 1998–2002 I4 8V ALE 1896 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 3750 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm


Some of the 'typical' things going wrong with mk4s include

-Mafs - become u/s so power loss experienced
-coilpacks - breakup causing misfires
-window regs - break so glass drops.
-arb drop links - wear out creating irritating knocking @ front
-beam bushes - specialist tools needed.
-brake light switches - tricky to fit new, easily broke
-wiper linkage - seizes up.
-master cylinders - replace.
-washer lines - needs unblocking
-water pumps - replace factory plastic with metal one.
-dirty throttle - needs cleaning.
-hazards - the one piece switch/relay needs replacing.
-temp sender - known to fail causing fuelling probs.

-Check for regular cambelt changes - interval is 60k with later cars on 40k. Prudent to replace the tensioner and idle wheels too.


FAQ concerning mk4s are:

*My car has flat spots when accelerating.
Possible causes are a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, split turbo hose, faulty EGR or N75 boost control valves. These don’t always appear as faults on VAGCOM. MAF sensor appears to be the most common fault. Cleaning the MAF may help but ultimately, it needs replacing.

*How do I remove my OEM head unit?
Cut a sturdy but no longer required credit card/plastic card into 1cm strips length ways. Insert these into the slots located on the left and right hand lower sides of the HU and it will unlock and you can then remove it.

*My rear washer isnt working.
It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch.

*My car keeps stalling / misfiring.
This could be caused by a faulty MAF sensor (again), temperature sender, relay 109 (diesels only), dirty throttle body, faulty coilpacks (petrol) or dirty contacts on the ignition amplifier.

Relay 109 - the sure-fire sign is when you try to start the car, the glowplug lamp stays out. After a few tries, glowplug light comes on, car starts


*My window has fallen into the door.
The plastic window regulator has probably failed. Repair kits are available, which contain metal clips.

*My central locking / door lock / alarm isnt working.
This could be due to a faulty door lock module. You might be able to repair the faulty door lock by re-soldering the connections. Some people seem to have success simply spraying with WD40. Otherwise, it's a case of having to replace it.

*My windscreen wipers have stopped working.
The mechanism has probably seized. You can either replace the mechanism or strip it down, rub it with wet and dry and re-grease.


*There's a rattle when I accelerate.
This usually means the front or centre exhaust mount has snapped,small amount of welding needed or you could try using some large jubilee clips.

*My cooling fans don't seem to be working correctly when the aircon is running.
Unfortunately, this is another common fault on the MkIV. I THINK it mostly affects the models that have climatronic aircon. To check if your fans are faulty, following is recommended:

1. turn engine on,
2. turn aircon on,
3. make sure ECON is "OFF"
4. Check fans are running constantly IE for more than 1-2 minutes
5. if the fans do nothing then run very fast, then stop after a minute or 2 or even 3 then you have faulty fans
Fans

*My key-fob doesn't work
Assuming that the batteries are ok, it's likely that the key has lost it's code. If you have 2 keys, put one in the ignition and turn on (I'd lower the windows, just in case!), manually lock the drivers door with the other key. Press either/both buttons on the remote (alarm should chirp). Manually unlock the door and turn the ignition off. It should now be coded.

*There's resistance in the steering followed by a strange twanging noise, especially when making slow, full lock manoeuvres.
Strut top bearings possibly seized.

*Boot light doesn't work
Possibly a blown bulb but more likely the rear washer hose has popped off and soaked the boot catch. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that doesn't like getting wet. Remove the boot lid cover by undoing a screw in each handle on the inside, then pull the plastic cover to unclip. The boot catch then comes out by undoing the 2 large spline bolts. Try drying the switch with a hairdryer after stopping the leaking hose, or ultimately replace the whole boot catch. Can also cause the alarm to act strangely.

*Heated mirrors don't work
First check to see if your car has them! Pop the mirror glass out by getting your fingers behind the outer edge and pulling, if there are 2 wires attached then they are heated. They are activated by turning on the rear window demister. Check to see if there is 12 Volts across the 2 wires, and/or check the fuse. If there is 12 Volts there and the glass doesn't get warm then the mirror glass needs replacing.

*When I adjust the driver's wing mirror, the passenger mirror also moves but when I adjust the passenger mirror the drivers side stays still - is this a fault?
This is a feature not a fault, for convenience when adjusting for different driver height etc. To adjust mirrors, move the drivers side first ® and then adjust passenger side (L) if necessary

*The traction control light is coming on whilst I'm driving
This might also throw an alternator fault code also. The light will go out if the engine is switched off and back on. Follow the 2 small wires from alternator to a connector at front of gearbox, the wires break at that connector.

*There's a clunking noise when I go over small bumps
Possibly caused by worn Anti-Roll Bar bushes.

*MkIV Door drop
You'll need the appropriate Spline bit that fits the hinge bolts (to fit a 1/2" or 3/8" drive ratchet), an extension bit at least 6" long (again 1/2" or 3/8" drive to suit the ratchet you're using) and an extra pair of hands! With the door open you should be able to reach the bolt furthest forward (TIP: get some 2" masking tape and mask the door edge and wing edge where you'll be working to prevent damage) you'll need to use the ratchet with extension bar insert it between the wing and front edge of the door and loosen the bolt. Now you'll need to release the kick panel trim inside the car (by the go faster pedal!) this requires you to unscrew the accelerator stop (the plastic lug under the accelerator pedal) now with a little pulling and maneuvering you'll be able to get the trim off (WARNING: be aware that the airbag control box is behind this panel don't fiddle with the wires !) you should be able to get at the bolts now, a torch can be handy here! Loosen the remaining bolts but beware I'd leave one slightly nipped up just so the door doesn't drop dramatically! now it's just a case of adjusting it until the door fits correctly- don't expect to get it right first time though ! As soon as you've got it sussed tighten all the bolts and refit trim etc !


*Smokey starts/Low MPG/ Erratic idle
Most likely your coolant temp sensor, located at the back of the block in most cases, replace for the revised green sensor.

Useful links, history check also if you want to read more into faults diagnosis, how to's etc

*History check
www.mywheels.ie

*Faults and how to's taken from shanes sticky in tech info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=7...7432564#7432564

http://www.pocketrocket.ca/vwtech.htm

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/46.aspx

http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835863

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/56052/425656.aspx

bk1991

bazz26 wrote: »

Personally I would try and stretch the budget to something like this, if you are set on buying a VW:

http://www.adverts.ie/showproduct.php?product=200086&cat=2

Should be able to knock a few quid of the asking price.

thats what i am driveing at minute . parents n half mine .02 vw passat we got it last year for 4000. full sevice.t belt.new tires.new twobar .only 78,000 miles.have put 25,000 miles on it since . but had spend 1200 on flywheel .

bk1991

Confab wrote: »

Madness to buy here if you're using it in the UK. VWs are overpriced too, you could get something far better than a TDI Bora for €4500. Alternatively you could buy one for €2000 and still have change.

would be used more here than uk . plus insurance tax etc ...

B00MSTICK

How are you sorted for insurance actually? Can be quite alot for younger drivers over there

bk1991

B00MSTICK wrote: »

How are you sorted for insurance actually? Can be quite alot for younger drivers over there

i will insure it in my motthers name and me named driver . my insurance for me and both parents on passat is 1349€


i will be insureing taxng in ireland .

bk1991

Neuro Energetic Kinesiology

Save yourself a lot of hassle and money and pick up a Golf in the UK.

Nephilim Wolf

Saab Ed wrote: »

The big difference between the Golf and the Bora is that the Golf isn't as much trouble as a Bora.

Modern Golfs aint that reliable, Boras are awful in that department.

Are the Golfs from seven to eight years ago more reliable than than the much newer ones now?

Leonard Hofstadter

No, they're all utter crap since the Mk4 came out in 1998.

That's some list of stuff that can go wrong though!

Apparently the "new":rolleyes: Mk6 is better than the Mk5 and Mk4 but it is only 1 year old, so way too early.

bk1991

hi guys with a budget of 4500 which would be a better buy ? a vw golf or bora ? and what yeas would fit my budget . preferably 1.9tdi and 6 speed . was thinking golf van would be handy on the insurance and tax ? but very few around .


bk1991

Atomic Pineapple

Thread cleaned up and moved to main motors

CianRyan

Judging by the 1991, I'm guessing this is your first or second car?
If it's the first, you probably shouldn't spend €4.5k on a car.

How ever, on topic... If the commercial Golf is the one you want, just keep your eye out for one. Buying a car isn't something you do in a day; If there's one you want, you wait for it or seek one out.

If you have any ties with a dealer, they can help you find the one you want.

-Chris-

All bk1991's threads merged into one mega-thread

bk1991

-Chris- wrote: »

All bk1991's threads merged into one mega-thread

good stuff

bk1991

CianRyan wrote: »

Judging by the 1991, I'm guessing this is your first or second car?
If it's the first, you probably shouldn't spend €4.5k on a car.

How ever, on topic... If the commercial Golf is the one you want, just keep your eye out for one. Buying a car isn't something you do in a day; If there's one you want, you wait for it or seek one out.
If you have any ties with a dealer, they can help you find the one you want.

first car !!!!!!! why shoulnt i spend 4.5k on car eh ? thats top il spend .
i know what u maen about searching and spending time until the righ ones pops up.was gona put up wated ad but might get alot of timewasters replying or mabey not .

bk1991

hey guys . i am lookin for advice on buying a 130bhp 6 speed bora .

from looking on donedeal and the like i cant find many 130bhp boras
around why is this ?

i am ether looking for a standard one and putting alloys ,spoiler.tinted windows,grill.n hids it it .

or one with some of the above .

i have a total budget of 4500€ what year should i be lookin for with what sort milage .
n whats vale of them



bk1991

aliocroc

bbk wrote: »

The coolant temp sensor may need to be changed (cheap easy fix)
The rear window washer pipes will have to be bodge jobbed, even if you dont see a problem (free and easy fix)

+1 on these. I have a 01 Golf, same stuff seems to fault on them-The coolant sensor has been acting up for the last while, I had to do a bit of a job on the back window wiper (highly advised by the way-with me the connection into the wiper broke & ended up shorting out a few bulbs on the left tail light before I got the time to fix), also the EPC warning light came on and off intermittantly (reckon this may have had something to do with the temp sensor), after that-

Timing belts need changing every 40000 miles
It does zip through a fair amount of oil every 5000 miles (apparantly this is normal!?)
Mine is a 3 door so you would prob have the same seat lift/tilt function on the seats if you go with a van, check both of these handles on either side of the seats-they're often broken. (also with the van-DOE test every year!?!?)
Ive had mine 3 years, flew through NCT and everything else, hasnt needed any mech work, was also in a little bumb with a Mazda R8 & came off pretty much unscathed!! Great motor!!

And defo, do it all in the UK!

GTE

Nephilim Wolf wrote: »

Are the Golfs from seven to eight years ago more reliable than than the much newer ones now?

Just so you know and I think it was said already is that poster who said the Mark 4 Golf is not as or is more reliable then the Bora is mistaken.

The Bora is a Mark 4 Golf, its just got a saloon body and if anything one less problem then the Golf considering there is no rear window wiper.