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Curved Stairs

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2

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    #32
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Jesus that is some job! You would never guess that it was a concrete stairs! Well done on your work!!!


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    #33
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Ah right I'm with you now. So it is all straight legths of timber pre moulded on the outside edge. Are the middle laminations pre moulded also? So do you clamp accross the laminations and then on top of all the laminations to the brackets so as to the the correct curve on both directions if that makes sense?
    Perfect sense.:cool:
    I have a shelf for want if a better word welded to the brackets to give an exact reference to place the handrail pieces on, i can clamp across the laminates at each bracket, and downwards to the bracket as well. The counter protective mould protects from the cramps causing any damage, keep the profile square to each bracket and also allows me to add additional cramps in between where ever needed.
    It takes a bit of time, very messy with glue and definitely needs a second , even better a third person to help .


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    #34
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    If I cut up an off the shelf handrail myself, wouldnt the saw kerf cause problems when gluing it back together??? I'm guessing putting it through the tablesaw would be a bad idea as the 3mm thickness of the blade would cause probs when gluing??thanks for the info!!keep it coming !!:)

    It needs to be planed smooth after cutting, of course you'll need extra wood to make up for what you lose between the saw blade and planing.


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    #35
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    It needs to be planed smooth after cutting, of course you'll need extra wood to make up for what you lose between the saw blade and planing.
    yeah I follow you alright, thats seriously good thinking in fairness, any chance atall of convining you to show a pic of the brackets?? or maybe even a work in progress sometime????:D:D:D


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    #36
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    God that is handy enough to do so long as you have enough help. Now next question how do you usually mark the joints on a curved handrail to fit into the newel posts? Are the spindles still square in a curved handrail?


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    #37
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    yeah I follow you alright, thats seriously good thinking in fairness, any chance atall of convining you to show a pic of the brackets?? or maybe even a work in progress sometime????:D:D:D

    I'll take a few pics of the brackets tomorrow.;)
    I have some pics on another camera at the workshop of a work in progress, i'll get them uploaded.
    Aw feck, all my secrets given away..;LOL:D


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    #38
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    God that is handy enough to do so long as you have enough help. Now next question how do you usually mark the joints on a curved handrail to fit into the newel posts? Are the spindles still square in a curved handrail?

    Square spindles fit fine, it's the filler pieces in between that will be cut off square to suit. The marking of the cuts takes a bit of working out, safest to cut it long if in doubt, and keep cutting until good.


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    #39
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    I'll take a few pics of the brackets tomorrow.;)
    I have some pics on another camera at the workshop of a work in progress, i'll get them uploaded.
    Aw feck, all my secrets given away..;LOL:D
    seriously though, thanks for the help, I know I'll run into problems but i'll def try on this model of mine...:):)


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    #40
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    How are the strings setup then? Is it a similar process?


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    #41
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    How are the strings setup then? Is it a similar process?

    Light laminates screwed straight to the concrete,lots of glue with the last layer pinned.


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    #42
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Dont worry I seriously doubt we will put you out of business :):) I might get to attempt this one day when I have the funds to build my own house :D:D


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    #43
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    Light laminates screwed straight to the concrete,lots of glue with the last layer pinned.
    would they look alright just plastered?


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    #44
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Sorry I meant for a complete wooden string stairs?


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    #45
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    would they look alright just plastered?

    Perfectly good plastered, needs a tasty plasterer and make sure the bottom edge is beaded.


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    #46
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Sorry I meant for a complete wooden string stairs?

    Complete wooden one, you need to build a drum as a template.:cool:


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    #47
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Is there a seperate drum for each string? How do you mark the string out? Is it on the drum you mark the string on?


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    #48
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    Perfectly good plastered, needs a tasty plasterer and make sure the bottom edge is beaded.
    So basically what I'd need to do to finish the concrete stairs(presuming I can shutter it, need to figure out the outer and inner string tomo!:D) is stick on timber treads, do the hand rail and spindles, then let rest to plasterer???
    How would you recommend attaching spindles to treads??


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    #49
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Is there a seperate drum for each string? How do you mark the string out? Is it on the drum you mark the string on?

    You need a seperate drum for each side, it adds a lot of time i'm afraid. Easy enough to mark out using a spirit level and a T Square, i find it easier to do a cut string version as opposed to a closed string as no need for a router on the cut string and the spindles fit onto the step.


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    #50
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    So basically what I'd need to do to finish the concrete stairs(presuming I can shutter it, need to figure out the outer and inner string tomo!:D) is stick on timber treads, do the hand rail and spindles, then let rest to plasterer???
    How would you recommend attaching spindles to treads??

    I always mitre the edge of the steps to eliminate the end grain exposure, the spindles can be either dovetailed into the steps before the return edge mitre is fitted, or simply dowelled.


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    #51
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Ok I see. How do you cramp the laminations together on the drum if you were doing a full solid string (not a cut string) ?


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    #52
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Ok I see. How do you cramp the laminations together on the drum if you were doing a full solid string (not a cut string) ?

    Same way, clamp the laminates to the uprights of the drum.
    I'll post here when i get the next bit of curved to do, you're welcome to pop out and follow the work if you want.:cool:


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    #53
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Ya sound that would be great. Just depends where in the country I am working. If I am close by I would be delighted to have a look. Where in galway are you? Are you far from the main turn off between tuam and claregalway where everyone gets delayed every morning?


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    #54
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Is the drum made like a stud work and then cladded with ply or similar? Or just like a stud work?


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    #55
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Is the drum made like a stud work and then cladded with ply or similar? Or just like a stud work?

    Just stud work, when doing a cut string, i put each stud in line with the back cut for each riser.Closed string, it doesn't really matter.


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    #56
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Ya sound that would be great. Just depends where in the country I am working. If I am close by I would be delighted to have a look. Where in galway are you? Are you far from the main turn off between tuam and claregalway where everyone gets delayed every morning?

    3 miles from the turnoff;)


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    #57
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    OK I am with you now. God it's not as complicated as I first thought it was. Just need a million clamps and a few hands to get it all glued up really once it is all set out


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    #58
    tiocimarla
    Closed Accounts Posts: 241 ✭✭tiocimarla


    Can you take a few photos of this in progress and post them up with completed product when is done. It sounds like a nice job. I mean if you have time between all that clamping that is. :cool:


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    #59
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    tiocimarla wrote: »
    Can you take a few photos of this in progress and post them up with completed product when is done. It sounds like a nice job. I mean if you have time between all that clamping that is. :cool:

    Will do. Don't have a curved job on atm, but i have a few pics on a camera of the last one, some of it as it was in progress so i'll get them up here soon.


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    #60
    tiocimarla
    Closed Accounts Posts: 241 ✭✭tiocimarla


    Cheers it not often i get to be involved with joinery like that. Being a chippy in dublin can be like working in a factory at times. :(


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    #61
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    I always mitre the edge of the steps to eliminate the end grain exposure, the spindles can be either dovetailed into the steps before the return edge mitre is fitted, or simply dowelled.
    would the best way to do that be to stick the spindle on the lathe and reduce the diameter on the bottom to form a dowell and drill a suitable hole? I figured out the shuttering anyway, bit of working out but not too bad...


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