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How many MPG?

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭corglass


    Lexus IS220d - 2.2 turbo diesel


    41 mpg with a really good mix of driving.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 704 ✭✭✭itarumaa


    Töpher wrote: »
    07 Legacy 2.0, currently averaging 23MPG (10.1 L/100KM)

    23MPG is not 10.1l / 100km, it is actually 12.3l/100km

    Or 10.1l / 100km is 28MPG.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭celticbest


    I don't know what a gallon is, I was never thaught it in school, we only used litres so....

    Citroen C1 1Litre= 20Km per Litre
    Citroen C4 1.4Litre= 13Km per Litre


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,603 ✭✭✭200motels


    I get about 8/100km haven't a clue what that means, Honda Civic 1.4 auto.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    Quick conversions from l/100km to mpg:

    5 is 56.
    6 is 45.
    7 is 40.
    8 is 35.
    9 is 30.

    12 is 22.5, I've never seen that in my bus.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭celticbest


    celticbest wrote: »
    I don't know what a gallon is, I was never thaught it in school, we only used litres so....

    Citroen C1 1Litre= 20Km per Litre
    Citroen C4 1.4Litre= 13Km per Litre
    Quick conversions from l/100km to mpg:

    5 is 56.
    6 is 45.
    7 is 40.
    8 is 35.
    9 is 30.

    12 is 22.5, I've never seen that in my bus.

    So Zubeneschamali am I correct in saying,

    The C1 = 56MPG
    The C4 = about 38MPG

    ?????


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,913 ✭✭✭GTE




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    2004 yaris 1.4d4d.
    3.2L/100k per tank, mostly open road at 80kph and some urban driving the school runs etc. God i love this car!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    shedweller wrote: »
    2004 yaris 1.4d4d. 3.2L/100k per tank

    Even Toyota don't claim 3.2 on the open road, they claim 3.6, and that's 78 mpg. You're saying you average 88 mpg per tank? I call shenanigans.

    Or do you just mean that the trip computer shows 3.2?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    celticbest wrote: »
    The C1 = 56MPG
    The C4 = about 38MPG

    Yes, I make the C4's figure 37 mpg.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    No shenanigans at all! I fill up to the brim and do about 800 miles before i refill to the brim. I use an exceptionally light foot and a scangauge to give me constant feedback about what the engine is doing. For example, when i go downhill the engine will cut the injectors. When the hill starts levelling out i reapply the juice pedal but as lightly as i can. This helps keep consumption down. Also when going uphill it helps to see what the load is and adjust pedal pressure accordingly. I use a block heater in the winter and usually keep using it up till late spring. I'll start using it again in autumn. On top of all this i use a grille block to speed up the warmup. It also means my top speed is limited to 120kph for short periods but to do that would waste a load of diesel anyway due to aero drag. Most of my driving is on 80kph back roads anyway so i'm up to the speed limit most of the time.
    When i go into an urban area i lift off the accelerator when coming up to a red light. I brake at the end to stop. This cuts fuel too as the engine uses DFCO or Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. It also saves my brakes and tires.
    And the beauty of all this is that i am driving at more or less the same speed as everybody else! Yay!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,822 ✭✭✭✭EPM


    shedweller wrote: »
    No shenanigans at all! I fill up to the brim and do about 800 miles before i refill to the brim. I use an exceptionally light foot and a scangauge to give me constant feedback about what the engine is doing. For example, when i go downhill the engine will cut the injectors. When the hill starts levelling out i reapply the juice pedal but as lightly as i can. This helps keep consumption down. Also when going uphill it helps to see what the load is and adjust pedal pressure accordingly. I use a block heater in the winter and usually keep using it up till late spring. I'll start using it again in autumn. On top of all this i use a grille block to speed up the warmup. It also means my top speed is limited to 120kph for short periods but to do that would waste a load of diesel anyway due to aero drag. Most of my driving is on 80kph back roads anyway so i'm up to the speed limit most of the time.
    When i go into an urban area i lift off the accelerator when coming up to a red light. I brake at the end to stop. This cuts fuel too as the engine uses DFCO or Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. It also saves my brakes and tires.
    And the beauty of all this is that i am driving at more or less the same speed as everybody else! Yay!

    Sounds like fun


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    It is. Certainly adds a little something to my commute! I find i'm more aware of my surroundings than i was before i started all this malarkey. So for example when someone three or four cars ahead brakes, i just let off the accelerator and engine brake. Sometimes i dont have to touch the brakes at all.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    shedweller wrote: »
    Certainly adds a little something to my commute!

    I reckon it'd add an hour and twenty minutes per day to mine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    :eek: How far is your commute?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,718 ✭✭✭Matt Simis


    shedweller wrote: »
    On top of all this i use a grille block to speed up the warmup.
    You shouldnt need to do that on a modern Diesel with thermostatic control in its cooling system.
    shedweller wrote: »
    It is. Certainly adds a little something to my commute! I find i'm more aware of my surroundings than i was before i started all this malarkey. So for example when someone three or four cars ahead brakes, i just let off the accelerator and engine brake. Sometimes i dont have to touch the brakes at all.
    I do all that (not engine braking with gear drops) but dont drive slow, its just good forward planning. If you feel more "aware" is cos you now have so much time now to watch everything happen, given you are so slow.

    I dont truly "engine brake" any more once I saw how expensive the Clutch and Gearbox replacement is in my car. Brakes are a lot more replaceable. I do coast to roundabouts and junctions, in the chance I dont have to brake and rebuild speed later. With "decreasing" inertia your braking performance is better than say, driving upto then braking close to the slow down spot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    shedweller wrote: »
    :eek: How far is your commute?

    120 km.

    Each way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,913 ✭✭✭GTE


    Even Toyota don't claim 3.2 on the open road, they claim 3.6, and that's 78 mpg. You're saying you average 88 mpg per tank? I call shenanigans.

    Or do you just mean that the trip computer shows 3.2?

    To be fair Parkers say my car will do 53mpg but I have gotten 60 but more commonly get 57mpg. 10mpg gain isnt out of the question.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭shedweller


    Hi Matt,

    "Driving so slow" Thats a bit harsh!!:D

    I take your point though, about engine braking. If done incorrectly (like dropping a gear or two) it would of course toast the clutch in jig time. However, when i say engine braking i mean simply lifting the foot off the throttle. Because of the characteristics of a diesel engine, there is very little braking force while engine braking compared to a petrol engine. I have no concern about my clutch while doing this as i see people around me accelerating much faster than i do and there is no thought about clutches there. I am also implying that clutch loads while accelerating are far more than the loads while deccelerating.

    I also take your point about grille blocking. Driving does need thought while it is installed. So if i booted it down the motorway i would find my engine going above 90 deg c.
    Mind you, i blocked it off completely during december and january as the cold was savage and the speed was, suffice to say, nonexistent! Engine temps barely got near the thermostat opening temp of 84 deg without the grille block but went to 87 deg with it.
    So the concept of a grille block is a little more complicated, yes. Not for everyone either.
    In any case, i'm not advocating everyone should go out and block their radiators and do 60kph. That would be ridiculous.
    But regarding driving habits/style, you are correct in saying that looking ahead is very helpful in helping you decide what to do.

    -Zuben; that is a long commute. Hang in there!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    shedweller wrote: »
    I am also implying that clutch loads while accelerating are far more than the loads while deccelerating.

    Yes, of course. The problem with "engine braking" and clutch wear is that people confuse engine braking (what you are talking about) with another method of slowing: shifting down a gear without matching engine revs. As the clutch engages:

    1) the engine revs are dragged up
    2) the car is slowed down
    3) the clutch gets worn.

    I hate to see people doing this, it's pure mechanical abuse of the clutch, but many people do it, and call it "engine braking".


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  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭pat_mas


    Yes, of course. The problem with "engine braking" and clutch wear is that people confuse engine braking (what you are talking about) with another method of slowing: shifting down a gear without matching engine revs. As the clutch engages:

    1) the engine revs are dragged up
    2) the car is slowed down
    3) the clutch gets worn.

    I hate to see people doing this, it's pure mechanical abuse of the clutch, but many people do it, and call it "engine braking".

    But this is "engine breaking", I do that a lot with my motorbike (660xtx) and as a matter of fact that's the way to do when you've got a big single cylinder biggrin.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    pat_mas wrote: »
    But this is "engine breaking"

    Clutch breaking, not engine breaking.

    Meanwhile, engine braking is a different thing altogether, and as shedweller says upthread, does not cause problems for your clutch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭crótach


    Had a brand new BMW 116d for the weekend, did 650km with 30l of diesel.
    That brings it to 61mpg, probably about 20% of the drive on motorways, and I wasn't driving it economically either. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,272 ✭✭✭✭Max Power1


    Right - I've finally remembered to measure this in my Rover 75.

    But the figures i got were 46.6 litres for 295 miles. Different online calculators give different results - does anyone know for definite how to convert my figures to a definitive MPG figure?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,686 ✭✭✭✭Zubeneschamali


    Max Power1 wrote: »
    46.6 litres for 295 miles.

    46.6 * 1.75 = 81.55 pints = 10.19375 gallons.

    295/10.19135 = 28.9393 MPG.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,718 ✭✭✭.Longshanks.


    Opel Corsa 1.6T
    Car has two trip computer settings. The 2nd is telling me 8.8 l/100km or 32 mpg over last 2.5 years

    Which dropped to 8.4 l/100km over the course of the three weeks where my air-con was broken. Hasn't climbed back up yet. Cold weather = more power but hot weather = more fuel efficient?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭knipex


    Insignia CDTI 160bhp about 40mpg combined (approx 80% motor way driving with very little urban the rest rural back roads)

    I have to admit I have a heavy right foot and do not drive economically.

    I used to own an 03 1.9 TDi Seat Toledo. Average 50 to 53 mpg with same driving style.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭shogunpower


    2.8 shogun, 11mpg with a trailor on, 22 without;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,430 ✭✭✭testicle


    27.7

    528i


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 248 ✭✭analfabets


    21 Mpg
    Saab 9-5 Griffin (3L petrol)


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