COOLANT BUBBLING IN RESERVOIR

freddy15

Hi All,

Looking for some advice here.

The Coolant in the reserve tank of my '99 Mazda 323f is bubbling up, i only just topped it up yesterday, however it had run dry, i suspect a leak somewhere as i had been checking regularly.
Anyway, i believe it may be the head gasket that may be the issue. If so

A.how much might this cost to repair?

B. Is it worth repairing on a car worth in aroud 1500 euro, and if not,

C. Anyone know ant good garages in the Dublin region where i could get a 1.3 or 1.4 ltr car for in around 3.5 - 4k max?

Thanks in advance,

Freddy15.

Captain Slow IRL

You may not have bled the system fully, which could explain the bubbles.

You would need a sniffer test to check for combustion gasses in the coolant or a compression test to check the head gasket before condemning anything.
A pressure test on your coolant system should show up where the coolant loss is occuring, if not through the head gasket.

If it was a head gasket, it probably wouldn't worthwile repairing considering it's value.

freddy15

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

You may not have bled the system fully, which could explain the bubbles.

You would need a sniffer test to check for combustion gasses in the coolant or a compression test to check the head gasket before condemning anything.
A pressure test on your coolant system should show up where the coolant loss is occuring, if not through the head gasket.

If it was a head gasket, it probably wouldn't worthwile repairing considering it's value.

Thanks Cptn Slow,
Any idea how much a sniffer test would cost?

mondeo

Sounds like the head gasket....

Mr Benevolent

mondeo wrote: »

Sounds like the head gasket....

+1. Check under the radiator cap and oil filler cap (when the engine is off and cold!) for a creamy mayonnaise-like gunk. Also, check the exhaust for 'steam' when the engine is warm.

Captain Slow IRL

freddy15 wrote: »

Thanks Cptn Slow,
Any idea how much a sniffer test would cost?

I'm not sure but I can't imagine it costing a lot - try ringing around a few places to see if they can do it and how much they'll charge you.

macroman

If it's been run dry then it's definitely airlocked. Open both bleed screws, overfill coolant level and squeeze coolant hoses. Coolant should now come out of the bottom/lower bleed valve when it does do it up. Keep squeezing hoses and it should now come from the upper bleed valve, not do that up. Top-up coolant level to correct level and listen for gurgling/bubbling when idling. The thermostat should also activate and turn on the fan.

It could be H/G problems, or it could just be a leak somewhere. Keep an eye on the levels and for leaking from the header tank, radiator core, in your passenger side footwell, and any radiator hoses which may be perished or split.

First place to check for H/G blowing is sludge under oil filler cap, but that only works if it's a leak between the oil & water galleries. A sniffer test will check for exhaust gases in coolant, and a compression test will check for a leak in the cylinder seal of the H/G. Low compression would result in failure/laboured starting, erratic idling, increased smoke and misfiring.

Most garages should have the facilities to do sniffer tests and compression tests and certainly it shouldn't cost much. Either way regardless of what they say get a second opinion.

langdang

macroman wrote: »

If it's been run dry then it's definitely airlocked. Open both bleed screws, overfill coolant level and squeeze coolant hoses. Coolant should now come out of the bottom/lower bleed valve when it does do it up. Keep squeezing hoses and it should now come from the upper bleed valve, not do that up. Top-up coolant level to correct level and listen for gurgling/bubbling when idling. The thermostat should also activate and turn on the fan.

Turn the heating all the way to the warmest setting too when you are filling/bleeding. (you don't need to turn on the fan inside in the car, just need to make sure the heater circuit gets filled up too)

macroman wrote: »

It could be H/G problems, or it could just be a leak somewhere. Keep an eye on the levels and for leaking from the header tank, radiator core, in your passenger side footwell, and any radiator hoses which may be perished or split.

First place to check for H/G blowing is sludge under oil filler cap, but that only works if it's a leak between the oil & water galleries. A sniffer test will check for exhaust gases in coolant, and a compression test will check for a leak in the cylinder seal of the H/G. Low compression would result in failure/laboured starting, erratic idling, increased smoke and misfiring.

Most garages should have the facilities to do sniffer tests and compression tests and certainly it shouldn't cost much. Either way regardless of what they say get a second opinion.

I'm guessing that the car is plodding along nicely otherwise, so definitely get a definitive answer on the HG before condemning it. You might find it hard to get another decent car for small money.

jimi_t2

langdang wrote: »

You might find it hard to get another decent car for small money.

http://www.adverts.ie/showcat.php?cat=2