Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

TechnoFreek

Has anyone any experience replacing a screen on a PS vita, oled type?
Easy to do?

Can a genuine Sony one or a high quality alternative screen be sourced for a reasonable price?

Some of those iPhone screens found on eBay are sh1te quality so want to avoid that scenario with the vita.

Thanks

KeRbDoG

Steve X2 wrote: »

If i could see the laser like in that pic I'd probably not be sticking my hands anywhere near it, damn invisible lasers

The plasma in the laser tube itself is very cool looking though (when firing).

To be working in/around an exposed laser like that, I hope you have certified laser safety glasses for the wavelength that it produces

Steve X2

KeRbDoG wrote: »

To be working in/around an exposed laser like that, I hope you have certified laser safety glasses for the wavelength that it produces

Well, this is a 40w Co2 laser, so 10.6uM in the far infra red range. From that you can tell that decent protective polycarbonate tinted glasses from a hardware store is going to be pretty much fine as almost anything will absorb a short burst of a 40w Co2 laser (apart from specialty materials used in lenses/ZnSe etc).
I've got a decent set of protective glasses, that paired with a proper setup of the laser enclosure should see me right.

Do you work with laser cutters yourself? Any other tips?
I'm just starting out(this is my second laser machine, the other a small diode based one in a laser enclosure) so am open to advice from people with more experience than myself on this?

KeRbDoG

Beyond working around high powered laser for IT comms - thats my limit of laser knowledge our EHS folks have us constantly freaked out

o1s1n

Steve X2 wrote: »

Any other tips?

Don't stick your hand in the beam? :pac:

Steve X2

KeRbDoG wrote: »

Beyond working around high powered laser for IT comms - thats my limit of laser knowledge our EHS folks have us constantly freaked out

Ah, I worked with a comms laser years ago when I was doing a contract for DCU IT. Although, it might have been a laser pointer as it fell on its arse whenever there was any wind, fog or tree growth

o1s1n wrote: »

Don't stick your hand in the beam? :pac:

You'd think that would be a given, but I'm aligning the mirrors the last couple days(got new mirrors and lens, old ones were poo) and my hand does wander into the (invisible)beam sometimes when test firing and moving the mirrors to get it right. Also, aligning laser mirrors is a total pain in the gods damn ar$e!

CiDeRmAn

Honestly, my job just never affords us the opportunity to use lasers....
The highest tech I've got to use is the occasional ECG!

Jack burton

CiDeRmAn wrote: »

Honestly, my job just never affords us the opportunity to use lasers....
The highest tech I've got to use is the occasional ECG!

Thats rocket science compared to me. Highest tech I work with in work is a weighing scales....oh and a cleaver

QT2

nice

BGOllie

I need to get a flyback for my WG K7300 monitor. Any one know a source in europe ? every search returns sites in the US and the post is more than the actual item

The Last Bandit

I've got flybacks from http://www.donberg.ie/ before, not the cheapest but I guess its a small market.

You could also try Gunblade, he might have a spare or know of alternative part numbers.

Steve X2

What can be done with a PSP Dev tool these days(DTP-T1000 with the DTP-H110 controller). Anybody aware of any nice hacks etc, or is it just game and tool development still?
Picked one up the other day and waiting on its arrival.

Not the one I ordered, but this is what I'm getting more or less.

Steve X2

Well, it's sort of a mod
My girlfriend is not a fan of the sharp edges on the NES Mini controller and says it hurts after a while. Quick model download, tweak and 3D print and sorted.

eddhorse

You sir are my hero !

BGOllie

fixed the crt on the arkanoid cab...
First time fixing a crt. I won't lie, I was nervous doing it, esp. the discharge part

Steve X2

I’ve been planning on doing an RGB mod on my trusty Amiga CD32 for ages as the Svideo is good, but nowhere near RGB. I stumbled across the below TOMS CD32 Interface while on my web travels. Never heard of it before so it was a bit of a risk getting it as there’s not a lot of info on it really. It arrived last night and after a quick test it seems to be working perfect. So RGB from the CD32 without any mods or very expensive SX1/SX32 addons

http://amiga.resource.cx/exp/toms

Not my pics.

Inviere

^^ If it only arrived last night there's no way you could know if it's outputting RGB already, surely the game hasn't loaded yet?

Steve X2

Inviere wrote: »

^^ If it only arrived last night there's no way you could know if it's outputting RGB already, surely the game hasn't loaded yet?

You're only new here, so I'm guessing you are confused and getting this mixed up with a NeoGeo CD
There's also the Philips CD-i console which is a bit slow (side note, couple of good Zelda games on that by the way).

Inviere

Steve X2 wrote: »

You're only new here, so I'm guessing you are confused and getting this mixed up with a NeoGeo CD

Ah feck, still, not a bad effort for a noob I guess! :P

There's also the Philips CD-i console which is a bit slow (side note, couple of good Zelda games on that by the way).

Wand of Turdalon is it?

CiDeRmAn

Doge

Anyone suffer from the same problem when desoldering unsocketed chips from arcade boards?

I desoldered the bottom of the YM2612 chip as best as I could with a desoldering gun, but as you can see theres pesky solder on the pads at top side of the board so the chip wouldnt budge:



Had to take a fine tip and desoldering braid to those top pads and eventually got the bugger out.

How do you guys go about desolderimg components which have soldere on the too side?

Anyone use hot air to remove them?

The Last Bandit

Desolder iron should take them out, probably just needed a bit more time to reflow both sides. It boards with a power plane on the topside are a complete pain to desolder, if the chip is definitely bad then snip it out and then extract the pins.
I'll use whatever methods it takes but be careful using the desoldering iron, its really easy to damage pads & tracks with them if the bit is the wrong size.

CathalDublin

Doge wrote: »

I usually snip all the legs, remove the chip and then heat up each leg and remove 1 by 1 with a solder sucker, it's time consuming but I don't have a desoldering gun.

Doge

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Desolder iron should take them out, probably just needed a bit more time to reflow both sides. It boards with a power plane on the topside are a complete pain to desolder, if the chip is definitely bad then snip it out and then extract the pins.
I'll use whatever methods it takes but be careful using the desoldering iron, its really easy to damage pads & tracks with them if the bit is the wrong size.

I forgot that you guys would mostly be removing. Bad chips! I wanted to keep the YM2612 so I could install a socket for testing more chips. I was afraid of leaving the desoldering iron there too long in case it lifted a pad indeed. The solder
Just woudlnt seem to melt on top of the board. Was a stubborn little bigger to get out!

I dont have a fancy pants hakko desoldering iron but i have a Chinese one,
They are not magic wands and they will never work perfectly 100% of the time.

Removing a chip without breaking it will still take time and patience.
Adding new solder and loads of flux will help .

I always add heat from my Iron while using the desolder gun works well for me.
nozzle size is KEY!!!

I made the mistake of using the largest nozzle when i first got mine.

The Last Bandit

BrownFinger wrote: »

I always add heat from my Iron while using the desolder gun works well for me.
nozzle size is KEY!!!

I made the mistake of using the largest nozzle when i first got mine.

Yep, have to use the smallest tip that fits over the pin and the tips do wear out with use.

BGOllie

So I managed to fix my first arkanoid board (second one on the way) . I (poorly) filmed most of the process (including mistakenly replacing the wrong IC after a poor piggyback attempt )
I've also added a link to the Arkanoid blueprints in the video description since they're hard to find

Hey lads, does anyone know where to source a replacement laser for a Dreamcast? I've been meaning to fix mine up for a couple of years but kept putting it off

Any one know where to get panel clamps ?
arcadeworld dont sell them anymore

Mitchomagic

i have some