Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

anyone else getting plagued by adverts.ie and donedeal alerts for "Arcade Fire" ?

I wonder can you use the minus character with fire next to it filter the search like you can on ebay.

Doge

That reminds me, heres a delightful Amiga 500 restoration video series, it shot and and presented really well and I love the wifi oscilliscope for the ipad!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIjhV3BLUXw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-OpxeIioxk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGZAU0D0V4c

BGOllie

been making a few repros for myself lately. Turned this Taz into a Bloodlines
Never got to play it back then and always wanted to play it on hardware ... and I don't fancy the price tag

BGOllie

if anyone's interested, I did a small vid on how to do it. it's pretty easy

MrVestek

What's a Part Component Board?

I always thought it stood for Printed Circuit Board?

I may be wrong... great video btw!

BGOllie

same thing really. I think the part component board thing comes from the old arcade world, I use to hear it all the time, but it most likely stands for Printed Circuit Board alright

MrVestek

Meh... either way great video!

How much do EEPROM reader / writers go for these days?

Might try it myself for the craic.

Doge

A €4 USB powered 5V 8W Soldering Iron that suprisingly does a good job for its size!

http://s.aliexpress.com/eaeEFNzq

Check out bigclives review of it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-8D5t6TJYU

In the video he recommends powering it from a USB power bank as his one passed a high voltage that could damage electrostatic sensitive components.

Someone in the comments mentioned that theres did not pass this voltage however.

Would be handy during a power outage or out in the field.

KeRbDoG

My soldering iron of choice currently is the TS100, can be ran off a LiPO battery pack and has lots of community firmware updates

Doge

KeRbDoG wrote: »

My soldering iron of choice currently is the TS100, can be ran off a LiPO battery pack and has lots of community firmware updates

Hmmm, 4 euro vs $50 plus the cost of a power supply? I thunk ill go with el cheapo! Hehe already have a soldering station anyways.

KeRbDoG

I have a soldering station too but its now gathering dust as I find the TS100 handier. Yup, you need a PSU+dock etc. but the speed which it heats is the USP for me...that and the cool display

CiDeRmAn

NERDS!

o1s1n

Noticed a bit of a quirk when messing about with monitors last night.

I've a modded N64 that works absolutely perfectly on my CRTs via RGB. Never had an issue with it.

After the recent N64 discussion in here, I decided to try running it though a bigger LCD display on the LMD-230W (kind of wanted to see how the processor board would handle the scaling) - via RGB too.

Picture appears for a split second and then vanishes.

When I change the LMD to another input and back to RGB, it appears for a split second and then vanishes again.

I've run all my other consoles on this monitor and they work grand, it just seems to be the n64. Wonder is it something to do with the way the RGB mod works.

The Last Bandit

Sounds like the RGB mod is generating out of spec signals, CRT's seems to be much more forgiving for dodgy signals.

Doge

Looks like Ollie got caught saying “sodder” in his latest repair video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poI-UAIgFwA

BrownFinger wrote: »

ICE COLD SODDER!

BGOllie

I got a perfect excuse though

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

I got a perfect excuse though

Yeah yeah, "me no speak English!"

BGOllie

CiDeRmAn

Is rare Siberian hamster

BGOllie

no no no ... is filigree hamster

o1s1n

Here's something I've been meaning to try for years - replacing the fan in a CPS2 board so it doesn't sound like you're living beside an airport when the game is running.

Only have the one CPS2 board left, AVP.



I don't think I've ever separated the A & B board before, there was a black sticker over the Japan board label (I removed it and its absolutely minty)



Here's where it got annoying. This A board has never been opened before, the original capcom sticker and 'C' bolt were still intact. I removed the sticker carefully so it could be reattached, but the bolt was an absolute bitch. They're made from a very soft metal that comes apart like butter. Tried to do what I could but the bolt got a bit mangled.



Managed to get it open anyway and into the old, disgustingly filthy fan. Out it comes.

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New 60mm fan goes in. Absolutely no soldering required, you just connect it up.



All back together and running perfectly, sans noise!
It's really weird to hear this powering up silently, you kind of grow to associate the loud WHHHIIIIIIIIRRRRRRRRRRRR with the game.

moonlighting_1

fan seems kinda pointless.
more air holes should do the job

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

I got a perfect excuse though

Funnily enough Techmoan illustrated the difference between both words on his tape scratching machine 2 months ago, no more excuses after watching this video!

https://youtu.be/0b2RYRggV8I#t=3m47s

o1s1n

Here's a super handy reason for having an LCD and a CRT displaying the same image - monitor calibration.

Not sure if anyone has tried fine tuning a CRT monitor via a digital factory menu, but it's a bit of a pain

I've found out of the production monitors I've had, they always display the whole image, boarder and everything (most consumer TVs seem to be calibrated to get rid of the dead space around the edge)

It's particularly annoying when trying to calibrate to show as much of a Megadrive and Snes image, as the Megadrive displays a bit far to the left and the Snes to the right.

So if you calibrate the screen perfectly for a Megadrive, you'll have a thin bar down the side of the snes image, and vice versa.

Having the LCD there lets you see the whole image constantly, so when you make an adjustment you can actually see how much of the screen you're missing (normally you have to kind of guess what's off screen)

You can really see it on the second image, I've managed to remove all of the dead blue space on the CRT. Can see the image is also perfect on the Snes too.

Doge

I’m a bit of an idiot for not ordering that BVM you posted!

Works out cheaper than OSSC.

Hopefully they get them back in stock.

o1s1n

Yeah they're a steal! I think you can set up an alert on that website to notify you when they're back in stock.

The one they sent me is absolutely minty, no dings or scrapes. They were manufactured in the late 90s to early 2000s, so longevity wise should have a good bit of life left in them.

They actually do SDI input too, so you can hook up digital devices. If that HDMI > SDI adapter ever arrives from China, I'm going to send HDMI consoles into the LMD and then the signal out of that into the BVM. Be interesting to have a look at a WiiU and the likes on a CRT.

If you do ever get one, to get into the factory menu, you do the following;

Press the menu button to bring up the standard menu.
Hold the degauss button and the enter button simultaneously.
Hidden factory menu pops up then.
The settings you change are the ones under 'NOR'

Funnily enough, one of the settings in the menu is called 'sexy'. I thought it might adjust the pin cushion in but nothing happened...:pac:

MrVestek

o1s1n wrote: »

Yeah they're a steal! I think you can set up an alert on that website to notify you when they're back in stock.

The one they sent me is absolutely minty, no dings or scrapes. They were manufactured in the late 90s to early 2000s, so longevity wise should have a good bit of life left in them.

They actually do SDI input too, so you can hook up digital devices. If that HDMI > SDI adapter ever arrives from China, I'm going to send HDMI consoles into the LMD and then the signal out of that into the BVM. Be interesting to have a look at a WiiU and the likes on a CRT.

If you do ever get one, to get into the factory menu, you do the following;

Press the menu button to bring up the standard menu.
Hold the degauss button and the enter button simultaneously.
Hidden factory menu pops up then.
The settings you change are the ones under 'NOR'

Funnily enough, one of the settings in the menu is called 'sexy'. I thought it might adjust the pin cushion in but nothing happened...:pac:

You can already make the WiiU output in SD no?

Just use a Wii Component cable or the likes.

o1s1n

Oh really??? I did not know this! Thought it was HDMI only.

Anyone know the best laser fix for a chipped V12 PS2?
I've been reading about the Romeo Fix, Summ0ne fix and the diode fix, all have conflicting information some sites claim one is useless, use the other and other sites state the opposite:rolleyes:

o1s1n

Network adapter, HDD and be done with it