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360 equipment

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  • 18-05-2010 3:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭


    Hey there strangers :D

    I've grown tired of the old VIA chipset and powering the DVD drive via the console method of flashing ..so I'm on the lookout for the latest and greatest gizmos to help me flash 360 drives. I'll need one with the double probe to the do the latest LiteOn drives too, I have a jasper with one of those in it....

    Also needed is a USB nand reader, I know witnessmenow had some PIC controllers and stuff but that was quite a while ago - I've been busy and incredibly distracted - is building your own still the cheaper option or are there cheap, better, fast products out there now from the likes of Xecutor.. I've really taken my finger off the pulse tbh :(

    Any and all advice, including recommended retailers, would be appreciated :)

    Also, I believe I have two broken PSUs - one for a jasper and one for a Xenon - if somebody would like them for spare parts/repairing :)


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭nbrady20009


    The NAND - X looks like it's going to be a fantastic piece of kit when it is released.
    http://www.ck3.co.uk/xecuter-nandx.html

    Have a look around the ck3 site, anything I've bought there has been top quality.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore


    haven't see you around for a while TV. hope you're ok.

    I did my first nand-x from xecuter installation and have to say that was the simpliest installation in my life. The reader is based on LPC2148 chip so it is almost the same as olimex board which I use. I can recomend the nand-x, price is good at the moment too.

    As for Lite-On I ordered the set which was mentioned by wmn on the other thread, it came in just 3 days from Canada and it looks good!


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I got a a usb nand reader from an irish lad of xbox-scene, rather support a local lad than xecutor.

    http://moddable.com/
    Works well, though you dont get fancy quicksolder pads, i use jumpercables with single pin headers solders to the points.

    Also have a maximus xtractor + vampire for the new liteons.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Cheers for the info, this is exactly why I asked - the Nand-X looks like an awesome piece of kit, but I really do wanna support my own local scene ..tough call.

    @Docentore: Yeah, I ran out of steam/money, moved house and got a new job ..too busy for modding. But I'm back *cue applause* :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Forgive my dumbness lads, but what does the nand-x actually do? I dont recognise the connector on it...

    Presumably its a nand reader/writer, but what is the advantage of it/how does it work?

    TV - you think you can just stroll back in here like nothin ever happened? Well you can - welcome back! :D:D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    EnterNow wrote: »
    Forgive my dumbness lads, but what does the nand-x actually do? I dont recognise the connector on it...

    Presumably its a nand reader/writer, but what is the advantage of it/how does it work?

    TV - you think you can just stroll back in here like nothin ever happened? Well you can - welcome back! :D:D

    Hah, I knew you still <3'd me :D

    From what I can tell, the Nand-X is a professional-grade LPT/USB nand reader with quicksolder pads & pin header solder connections (use the method you prefer). It's also got a built-in programmer for the ARM chip so you can update the chip's instruction set via Windows if there's an update in the future.

    I suppose another major advantage is each board is built the same way, so supporting it should be much easier than building your own custom board or buying somebody elses design and then trying to get it working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore


    I'm just after using the DIYgadgets tool for the first time. It is dead easy and have to say that it saved me a lot of hassle. I could get the drive to vendor mode with lt switch, even the new version with 18/20/22 ohm resistors. I needed 16 ohm resistor which was in the above set ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    docentore wrote: »
    I'm just after using the DIYgadgets tool for the first time. It is dead easy and have to say that it saved me a lot of hassle. I could get the drive to vendor mode with lt switch, even the new version with 18/20/22 ohm resistors. I needed 16 ohm resistor which was in the above set ;)

    You couldn't get the drive to 0x72 with the 18/20/22? Have you got a link to the product on DIYgadget?

    So basically..I'm looking for the following:

    1) CK3 Pro
    2) CK3 Probe v2

    and for the JTAG/NAND the nand-x or similar?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    cisk wrote: »
    I got a a usb nand reader from an irish lad of xbox-scene, rather support a local lad than xecutor.

    http://moddable.com/
    Works well, though you dont get fancy quicksolder pads, i use jumpercables with single pin headers solders to the points.

    Also have a maximus xtractor + vampire for the new liteons.

    Can I get a picture of the underside of your board? I bought one without the PIC18F2455 because I had one from attempting to build a reader of my own and when I plug it in good old windows is having a problem.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Just a quick thing for you folks who want to buy off Niai - only buy the ones with the built-in chips :D

    I bought one without the PIC18F2550 chip first, using an 18F2455 that witnessmenow gave me for my homemade effort. I flashed it in his house so it should have been good to go. But when I popped in the chip Windows reported 'USB device malfunctioned'. I wasn't happy but put it down to a bad PIC. Cue loads of testing, the purchasing of a discounted full board (many thanks to him for helping me) but I still wasn't happy the original board didn't work.

    At the weekend I noticed I had a 4Mhz crystal, while the working board had a 12Mhz crystal. Witnessmenow's fully built board had a 4Mhz crystal so I thought nothing of it. But today it was the only component left untested (because I can't :P) and it actually was the crystal.

    I don't believe it's faulty, I just think the PIC is expecting a 12MHz crystal. I stuck in the one I got for the homemade board and voila, the formerly broken board works now.

    So just buy the fully built boards and you'll be safe :D And no, I don't particularly enjoy the hard way of doing things


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