Best Outdoor Paint for Wood ?

modm3

Couple questions here for anybody who can answer please.

We've built a new garage and didn't bother until now to do anything about doors. Options are the usual roller types, sectional etc....who all seem to be the same price anyways. The guy who made our stairs has offered to make us the garage doors out of red deal. He'll finish it with red oxide primer (I think) and we finish off the rest. Now this option is coming in considerably less expensive than decent roller doors and with better security - multipoint locking so we are leaning towards this.....but...

Will we have problems using a non-traditional outdoorsy wood like red deal with movement and longevity and if its a goer, what is the absolute best method or product to seal/finish the wood. Obviosuly it looks like we have to paint it a colour as I can't imagine any varnish doing the job we want (if we don't put the primer on)

Including the probable cost of the paint and the 5 point locking systems, we're potentially looking at 600eur saving over a roller/sectonal door with similar security (motors) as we need two sets.

Long post, but thats the whole story, any advice, offer of services or contacts would be greatly appreciated !!

modm3

Nobody.....????

Was going to put about 5 coats of Yacht varnish on, but if an expert or somebody with experience recommends that's not good for garage doors (north facing) then we have to paint it black - ie which paint would be the best....pleeeeese !

michael999999

for a start the reason the doors are so cheap is they are being made from red deal which wont last long outside as its a softwood.but if you are going to go with that,
i would either give them three coats of bondex if you want a wood finish or if you prefer the painted finish you should prime,undercoat and 2 coats of gloss.dont bother with a red oxide primer as this is only to be used on metal.dont use clear varnish outside as the doors will turn white and crack in the sun.

dunsandin

you could nail up 2 sheets of mdf, that would save a few quid, but in the long term, a metal roller shutter will be cheaper and better. Got ours fitted for 900 all in, maintenance free and still looking good after 4 years.

modm3

michael999999 wrote: »

for a start the reason the doors are so cheap is they are being made from red deal which wont last long outside as its a softwood.but if you are going to go with that,
i would either give them three coats of bondex if you want a wood finish or if you prefer the painted finish you should prime,undercoat and 2 coats of gloss.dont bother with a red oxide primer as this is only to be used on metal.dont use clear varnish outside as the doors will turn white and crack in the sun.

Thanks for the input - appreciate it. Apparently they're being made from Scandanavain Hardwood - which is essentially some sort of funky Pine, but I do understand the reason as to why they are cheap. But, if I was to follow your advice, could I not assume that I'll get a decent return on my investment ??
I've had a proper quote for insulated sectional doors and they are almost 100% more expensive. They are the only thing that comes close to the wood for security - I'm putting very robust hinges and locking system on them, but if they want in they'll always find a way.

modm3

dunsandin wrote: »

you could nail up 2 sheets of mdf, that would save a few quid, but in the long term, a metal roller shutter will be cheaper and better. Got ours fitted for 900 all in, maintenance free and still looking good after 4 years.

The MDF idea would probably give similar security to the roller doors, so you're not too far off the mark
900 for a roller door is saucy though, even if it's electric - going by the prices I've been getting.

dunsandin

Well, actually, my garage is a bit bigger, try truck size and I repair roller shutters in industrial units, so thanks for the heads up on the pricing:p In my area, if you are dumb enough to break in, you have to be twice as lucky to break out.:) Door is to keep out the wind and rain.

michael999999

modm3 wrote: »

Thanks for the input - appreciate it. Apparently they're being made from Scandanavain Hardwood - which is essentially some sort of funky Pine, but I do understand the reason as to why they are cheap. But, if I was to follow your advice, could I not assume that I'll get a decent return on my investment ??
I've had a proper quote for insulated sectional doors and they are almost 100% more expensive. They are the only thing that comes close to the wood for security - I'm putting very robust hinges and locking system on them, but if they want in they'll always find a way.

just follow my instructions and you should be alright.just remember to give em a coat of bondex or gloss every two years and you should get 20 years out of them.

modm3

dunsandin wrote: »

Well, actually, my garage is a bit bigger, try truck size and I repair roller shutters in industrial units, so thanks for the heads up on the pricing:p In my area, if you are dumb enough to break in, you have to be twice as lucky to break out.:) Door is to keep out the wind and rain.

So the price for a door on an industrial unit bears no relevance to that in a domestic garage

modm3

michael999999 wrote: »

just follow my instructions and you should be alright.just remember to give em a coat of bondex or gloss every two years and you should get 20 years out of them.

Cheers Michael !!